# Hey car guys, it's getting cold, and I have a problem...



## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

I've got an '02 F150 with a 5.4L V8 with 200K miles on it.
As it's gotten colder, I've tried to use my heater, and it's lackluster at best.
In the past, I've only needed to let the engine reach operating temperature, and the heat flows like magic.
This year has been different. I allow the temp to rise, I kick on the blower, and for 15 seconds, I get magic.
Then the magic fizzles, turns cold, and chills me.
I can turn off the blower, wait 60 seconds, and kick it back on for another 15 seconds of warmth.
It sucks.

I've checked fluid levels, I've replaced the thermostat.
I've read that I need to check the hoses leading to the firewall to check for temp differences that may mean a blockage.
What is the likelihood that I'll need to change my heater core?
(please be low, please be low)

Is there anything I'm missing that might be easier to check than ripping out my dash and opening the heater box?


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## Chipper (Dec 22, 2012)

My "GUESS" would be a vacuum leak for the heater controls. Unless it's a broken cable. You may be able to tie the lever for the heater control open or shut, so the heater will work. Drop the glove box out and see if you can access it.

I know on the older ford 90's the heater will default to defroster and still blow heat. Not 100% sure on a 02 ford. Good luck.


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## Prepared One (Nov 5, 2014)

Wish I could help. What I knew about fixing motors stopped in the early 80's and that wasn't much. I guess from a prepping stand point I should know more but I really hated working all week and then working on cars and trucks over the weekend or at night. I was very poor so it was a necessity at the time. Now I just drive em I don't know what makes them go. LOL Good luck.


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## AZWELDY (Mar 5, 2015)

is the truck getting up to temp? if so its most likely a blockage or a heater core issue. have u noticed any water/coolant under the passenger floorboard?


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Wait a darn minute, I just watched some prick with big ears talk about how warm it was getting and how the seas were rising. According to what a bunch of folks at a meeting in Paris France are saying, you should ditch the F150 and buy a boat and a cool Hawaiian Flowerdy Shirt. You won't need a heater...


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## AZWELDY (Mar 5, 2015)

i have also seen the pivot on the blend door break as well which could cause to open and close depending on acceleration or turning in one direction. can you be more specific are you driving when this happens or stopped?


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

Chipper said:


> My "GUESS" would be a vacuum leak for the heater controls. Unless it's a broken cable. You may be able to tie the lever for the heater control open or shut, so the heater will work. Drop the glove box out and see if you can access it.
> 
> I know on the older ford 90's the heater will default to defroster and still blow heat. Not 100% sure on a 02 ford. Good luck.


As soon as I read the problem, heater control valve popped into my head.

Kauboy - you do not want to fool with the heater core unless you have to. Not sure about your year truck, but some vehicles require removing the dash board to get at it. With air bags, that is a job best left to the pros.
Start simple - crawl under the dash and check for broken vacuum lines going to the blend doors. If they look OK (nothing cracked or broken), then get it up to running temp, turn on the heater and put your hand on the two hoses in the engine compartment going into the firewall to the core. Both should be hot. 
When you replaced the thermostat, you used the correct temperature one? If it is too low, say a 180 degree in a 197 degree application, that could be part of the problem.


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## LONE WOLF (Dec 12, 2014)

Since you are needing to wait 15 minutes or so before you can get any heat and the thermostat is functioning properly. I would bet the heater core is clogged up.


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## Arklatex (May 24, 2014)

Just run a hose from the exhaust to the cab, it will keep you and your family warm this holiday season!

I guess I should edit this to tell yall it's a joke. Don't try this. Thanks.


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

I heard or read that poor heat may either be air locked or need a reverse flush of the core. If both hoses to core are hot, then the problem must be under the dash. jmho. Maybe go to local repair shop and pick their brains.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

AZWELDY said:


> is the truck getting up to temp? if so its most likely a blockage or a heater core issue. have u noticed any water/coolant under the passenger floorboard?


The truck is getting up to temp. Reaches middle of the temp gauge after about 5 minutes of driving.
I've not noticed any wetness, nor coolant smell at all.



AZWELDY said:


> i have also seen the pivot on the blend door break as well which could cause to open and close depending on acceleration or turning in one direction. can you be more specific are you driving when this happens or stopped?


The driving does not change the effect. Whether under acceleration or stopped, straight or turning, the phenomenon is the same. Turning off the blower for 60 seconds will build up enough heat to allow 15 seconds of warm air, then it goes cool again.
I've heard about the blender door issue, but since the effect is repeatable, I do not think that's the problem.



rice paddy daddy said:


> As soon as I read the problem, heater control valve popped into my head.
> Kauboy - you do not want to fool with the heater core unless you have to. Not sure about your year truck, but some vehicles require removing the dash board to get at it. With air bags, that is a job best left to the pros.
> Start simple - crawl under the dash and check for broken vacuum lines going to the blend doors. If they look OK (nothing cracked or broken), then get it up to running temp, turn on the heater and put your hand on the two hoses in the engine compartment going into the firewall to the core. Both should be hot.
> When you replaced the thermostat, you used the correct temperature one? If it is too low, say a 180 degree in a 197 degree application, that could be part of the problem.


My truck doesn't actually have a "heater core valve". One of the hoses apparently acts as a valve by having a narrowed down restriction. I read that the engineers who designed it were all fired... not sure how true that was.
My blender door is opened by an actuator, not a vacuum line. I can't reach it to test it, but I can hear it opening when I turn the temp dial.
I used the thermostat that the O'Reilly's guy looked up on his computer and pulled from the parts rack. I'm hoping it was right.
I'll need to check those hoses again. Last time I checked them, they both felt hot, but not sure if that was simply the engine compartment being hot after driving for an hour.



LONE WOLF said:


> Since you are needing to wait 15 minutes or so before you can get any heat and the thermostat is functioning properly. I would bet the heater core is clogged up.


Man I hope not... to get to my heater core, I have to remove the entire dashboard across the whole cab.
I've done it half way before for other reasons, but never the whole thing. I watched two mechanics do the whole heater core change out in about 30 minutes, but they knew what they were doing. Most shops charge between 1 and 2 thousand to do this work because the standard time is 8 hours.



Arklatex said:


> Just run a hose from the exhaust to the cab, it will keep you and your family warm this holiday season!


Thanks... thanks for that suggestion, Ark...
I don't think I'll be trying that.


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

Move to Florida. We can use some more Patriots here to off set the migrants from New York and New Jersey.


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## Deebo (Oct 27, 2012)

Start simple first, if you can access both lines going into heater core from outside of truck, remove both hoses, apply a good section to each outlet and see if it's restricted inside. 
Don't put any compessed air in, the passages are tiny. 
The hot air for a few seconds has me puzzled. 
Does this truck have the stupid air filter in the console?
I had a he'll of a time changing a heater core on my Ford truck, made me wanna beat the Shit out of who ever designed that dumb Shit, yes, had to remove the whole dash.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

Deebo said:


> Start simple first, if you can access both lines going into heater core from outside of truck, remove both hoses, apply a good section to each outlet and see if it's restricted inside.
> Don't put any compessed air in, the passages are tiny.
> The hot air for a few seconds has me puzzled.
> Does this truck have the stupid air filter in the console?
> I had a he'll of a time changing a heater core on my Ford truck, made me wanna beat the Shit out of who ever designed that dumb Shit, yes, had to remove the whole dash.


I don't know of any cabin air filter, only the engine air filter.
Yeah, the temporary heat is the strangest part.
I assume it has to be an obstruction that doesn't allow constant flow of coolant into the heater core, but still allows some. If I stop the blower, the heater box behind the glovebox fills with hot air, but once opened, empties faster than the heated coolant can provide more.


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## MI.oldguy (Apr 18, 2013)

It does not sound like a heater core issue since you are getting warm air.you do not have a heater control valve.some fords will need to have their coolant ststem "burped" if any cooling system repairs were done or if the truck ran low on coolant.the actuators no doubt are small electrical motors.do you hear the actuator also when the air turns cold?.how about warm air on defrost?.try turning on the A/C and dial the temp up to 90.is the blower motor still running when it turns cold?.all newer vehicles have a tempretaure control module to control the HVAC,when they go T/U,they will default to factory default settings.and it should be to heat.for instance,my beater buick's module went bad and defaults to floor,and vent unless I click the defrost button and,I am not going to pay a wrecking yard for one that is toast and there are no new ones due to obselence.you might try and look at the Ford truck forum and pick the decade of your truck and peek at heating and cooling issues.sounds to me like something electronic is warming up and fizziling out.there may be a test or a way to test the module.
my old ford f-350 (1986) lost a actuator (vacuum type) and I was able to hook up an aftermarket choke cable to the lever to control my heat settings.

Good luck,some of these type issues are a real biotch.


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## jim-henscheli (May 4, 2015)

Kauboy, there is a ford truck enthiusiast forum out there, called something like, fordtruckenthusiast, and they cover gas and deisel. When my 02 stroke lay on its deathbed, writhing, the forum helped me squeeze a few more weeks out of it. They have all sorts of diagrams and pictures and test procedures. So thats something...maybe.


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## AZWELDY (Mar 5, 2015)

check to see if the heater core is plugged. with what you have said so far it is most likely heater core or bad water pump or broken fins on the water pump


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

jim-henscheli said:


> Kauboy, there is a ford truck enthiusiast forum out there, called something like, fordtruckenthusiast, and they cover gas and deisel. When my 02 stroke lay on its deathbed, writhing, the forum helped me squeeze a few more weeks out of it. They have all sorts of diagrams and pictures and test procedures. So thats something...maybe.


I've been all over that site, and haven't found anyone having my same issue. The fact that I get *some* heat seems to be the difference. This could just be a varying degree of the same issue that others on there have had, but I'm not sure yet.


AZWELDY said:


> check to see if the heater core is plugged. with what you have said so far it is most likely heater core or bad water pump or broken fins on the water pump


Yeah... that's what it's kinda lookin' like.
I've read that I can unhook the inlet and outlet hoses at the engine, and run a garden hose through it to check for obstruction. However, this seems to be only a temporary fix, and a sign that the core is going bad. Can it rust? The replacements are all aluminum, and that would mean no rust. Would the stock one be aluminum too?
I've also read that the water pump is easy enough to check. Might do that too while I'm at it. To my knowledge, it's never been checked. I've owned the truck since 76K, and *I've* never checked it.


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## Joe Smith (Aug 21, 2015)

Hey,

If you haven't done it flush the radiator thoroughly, if that doesn't help take the hose off to the heater core and shove your garden hose into that and try and flush it out. Hate to ask but the thermostat is in correctly- not upside down? 

If you're as super cheap as me I'd find a small heater with a cigarette lighter connection, and not bother with the heater core.

Besides don't you live in Texas, I thought it was all hot down there like a desert. So you mean they have actual shade trees and stuff like that?

Have an OReilly auto parts nearby? Did a google search ad they have a cig lighter plugin heater. Let us know how it goes.


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## AZWELDY (Mar 5, 2015)

it will be aluminum as it dissipates heat trust i weld aluminum everyday. take both hoses off in the engine bay, find the return hose and back wash through it. maybe put the feed hose into a bucket to see if you get a bunch of deposits.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

Joe Smith said:


> Hey,
> 
> If you haven't done it flush the radiator thoroughly, if that doesn't help take the hose off to the heater core and shove your garden hose into that and try and flush it out. Hate to ask but the thermostat is in correctly- not upside down?
> 
> ...


The thermo is in correctly, yes.
I've considered the 12v heater option, but since my 12v ports are not powered by the ignition, but rather direct to battery, I decided against it.
No need to risk being "that guy" as my truck becomes a fireball in the parking lot because yours truly had a brain fart and left the electric coil on.
Contrary to popular belief, Texas ranges in weather from parched desert, to tropical coast, to piney woods, to snowy blizzards. We've got it all.
Bear in mind, we stroll through triple digit temps with relative ease, so 30-40 degrees might as well be the arctic tundra to us.
Since we can't seem to kick "global warming" into high gear, we do suffer bouts of cold now and then here in the DFW area.
I drive into work at 5:30, so I can't even benefit from the sun in the mornings. For some reason, the jackwagons in maintenance keep the building a steamy 65 degrees util around noon.
My mornings suck at the moment.
I keep a cup of hot water at my desk just to keep my fingers from going numb...
A toasty truck heater would make my Christmas!


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## azrancher (Dec 14, 2014)

Heater doesn't work - Checked Everything! - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

Here's a link for that problem, it appears his problem was the water pump.

*Rancher*


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## Chipper (Dec 22, 2012)

The website is Ford-trucks.com. Should be able to find out just about anything on that site. Been a life saver many times for me over the years. 40 years driving Fords and I've never had a heater core plug. Blow out yes. But there is always a first time. 

My story on a 93 Bronco. At idle the heater controls work as they should. As soon as I drive along and step on the gas it defaults to defroster as the vacuum is taken away. This continues as I drive along the heater/ac has a mind of it's own depending on throttle position. As the vacuum is taken away obviously the actuator can't hold the flap in the correct position. I've never found the leak, very irritating. I've just learned to live with it. 

Hope this helps explain a little more. I'm very curious on the fix. Keep us posted.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

azrancher said:


> Heater doesn't work - Checked Everything! - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
> 
> Here's a link for that problem, it appears his problem was the water pump.
> 
> *Rancher*


Thank you!
That *does* seem to mimic my issue.
Both heater hoses are HOT. His scenario was the same. I just hit the 200K mark today, and he has 220K.
Man, I really hope it's the pump.


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## txmarine6531 (Nov 18, 2015)

Replace the water pump. And while you are doing that, flush the system if you haven't done so. Best thing to use is about 1/4 cup of dishwasher detergent. Not Dawn, something like Cascade. Non foaming. Don't use the Prestone crap, the little plastic tee fitting will break at the most inopportune time and dump your coolant (I know from experience). Plus the chemicals they make for cooling system flushes are a little harsh on hoses and seals.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

txmarine6531 said:


> Replace the water pump. And while you are doing that, flush the system if you haven't done so. Best thing to use is about 1/4 cup of dishwasher detergent. Not Dawn, something like Cascade. Non foaming. Don't use the Prestone crap, the little plastic tee fitting will break at the most inopportune time and dump your coolant (I know from experience). Plus the chemicals they make for cooling system flushes are a little harsh on hoses and seals.


I want to flush it. I'm sure it needs it. However, I have one big concern. What is the best way to deal with the coolant, both collection and disposal? I can't find anything that's of decent size that will fit under the outlet.
Also, for a system that has no radiator cap, only a reservoir cap, how would I "burp" the air out afterward?


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## Waterguy (Jul 15, 2015)

The solution to pollution is dilution. It used to be that coolant manufacturers recommended flushing coolant down the drain with lots and lots of water behind it. Now, check with your county recycling or hazardous waste places to get rid of it.

Try the disposable turkey pans for drain pans. You can get a few for $5 at pretty much any grocery store or wally world.


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## jim-henscheli (May 4, 2015)

Prepared One said:


> Wish I could help. What I knew about fixing motors stopped in the early 80's and that wasn't much. I guess from a prepping stand point I should know more but I really hated working all week and then working on cars and trucks over the weekend or at night. I was very poor so it was a necessity at the time. Now I just drive em I don't know what makes them go. LOL Good luck.


Enough with the negative waves..


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## Gunner's Mate (Aug 13, 2013)

Drive your wifes car the heater works


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## Montana Rancher (Mar 4, 2013)

Kauboy said:


> I've got an '02 F150 with a 5.4L V8 with 200K miles on it.
> As it's gotten colder, I've tried to use my heater, and it's lackluster at best.
> In the past, I've only needed to let the engine reach operating temperature, and the heat flows like magic.
> This year has been different. I allow the temp to rise, I kick on the blower, and for 15 seconds, I get magic.
> ...


Hey
I haven't spent the time to read the replies but IMO the 2 culprits are

1. Put in a new thermostat
2. Your water pump is bad

your truck is a 2002 so not much chance the heater core has any problems

so 3. The controls that function your air controls are funky, unusual but not unheard of.


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

I'm not a master mechanic, or certified. Maybe someone can school me, why would the motor not overheat if bad water pump? No flow to heater core equates to me no flow through motor. I'm puzzled.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

Montana Rancher said:


> Hey
> I haven't spent the time to read the replies but IMO the 2 culprits are
> 
> 1. Put in a new thermostat
> ...


#1 swapped last week, no change.
#2 literally just completed the swap 2 minutes ago, old one looked almost new inside.

Would like to flush system first before refilling and trying again.
I can't reach the second hose from the heater core. It is at the back of the engine right near the firewall. I can reach one of them, but I'm not yet sure if it is the inlet or outlet. If backflushing, I'd want the outlet hose.
Also, if backflushing the whole system, since the thermo is the last thing before the return hose to the radiator, should I remove it to flush? Without removing, it won't be open, and wouldn't allow water through, right? (regardless of flow direction)

Edit: Just popped off one end of the reachable heater core hose and found reddish-brown grit inside. If the heater core is aluminum, this would have to be rust from the block, right? Could that clog a heater core?


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Yes that is rust from the block.

Flush what you can in the heater core. But be warned that once it is flushed, if it is bad, it will start leaking. DAMHIK.

On my old dodges. There is a petcock on the block itself. Drain the block too. Remove the lower radiator hose, and the thermostat housing, and flush the block too. Don't forget to flush the radiator also.

Let it drain fully, as you want as little "hose" water in there as possible. Once it's stopped dripping out, reattach all hoses, and put the thermostat housing back on with a new gasket (should be about $1).

Then either fill with 50/50 or straight antifreeze and dilute with "distilled" water (to help prevent rust buildup again).

I just went through this with my 74 w200.

Keep up on maintenance. It seems like a lot of work now, but not as much work as swapping heater cores or other parts due to rust issues. Here's the heater return nipple on the w200. You done want this happening to you miles out of town!








And here's the heater core after I got everything hooked up. It worked for a short bit, and started leaking. Mine was from 12 years sitting, but can also happen to a daily driver. You are supposed to turn the heater on for a short bit during the summer to keep it "cleaned out".








Oh and I almost forgot that I seem to recall ford had vacuum issues with their cooling/heating systems. When that happens. You'll get airflow out of the defroster vents, but turn off or let off the gas and then it'll go back to the dash vents, then back to defrost. Not sure that's your issue, but worth a check.


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

Forget about epa, just drive out to the middle of nowhere and let it spill to the ground, just like the old days. 

Best place is by some watershed. Serious here, your car pukes whatever fluid in the middle of no where, what to do environmentally wise?

P.S. I am not a tree hugger.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

So, water pump is in, flushed all the hoses and orifices I could reach on the entire cooling system, drained everything, reattached everything, and filled her up with 50/50 diluted gold coolant and distilled water, as Ford recommends. Drove it around until reaching operating temp, kept heat dial on. Turned on blower and got the same short burst of warm air. Drove around a bit more and parked it to idle for a while. Cleaned the windshield to kill time. When I tried the heat again, it was a longer period of warmth, but not very hot.
It's cooling now on an incline to allow bubbles to escape. No radiator cap, only a reservoir cap, so this is all I can do to "burp" it. Then I'll top it off again and see how things go. I plan to keep some premixed coolant with me, just in case.
I double checked the blend door actuator, and the sound is clear as a bell. It's working fine.
If this isn't the fix, it has to be the core... ugh.


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## txmarine6531 (Nov 18, 2015)

Kauboy said:


> So, water pump is in, flushed all the hoses and orifices I could reach on the entire cooling system, drained everything, reattached everything, and filled her up with 50/50 diluted gold coolant and distilled water, as Ford recommends. Drove it around until reaching operating temp, kept heat dial on. Turned on blower and got the same short burst of warm air. Drove around a bit more and parked it to idle for a while. Cleaned the windshield to kill time. When I tried the heat again, it was a longer period of warmth, but not very hot.
> It's cooling now on an incline to allow bubbles to escape. No radiator cap, only a reservoir cap, so this is all I can do to "burp" it. Then I'll top it off again and see how things go. I plan to keep some premixed coolant with me, just in case.
> I double checked the blend door actuator, and the sound is clear as a bell. It's working fine.
> If this isn't the fix, it has to be the core... ugh.


When using 50/50, there's no need to add water. And it's cheaper to buy full strength coolant and a gallon or so of water. Without an air lift, letting it idle for a bit, then bringing up the RPMs to around 2,000 for a bit and letting it idle for a bit more is the only way to burp it. When it cools it'll suck coolant in if there's room for it. And yes the rust is from the block, normal. Did you flush it both directions or just one? And did you use detergent? What was the flow like coming out of the core? Should have close to hose pressure. Make sure you don't have any collapsed hoses and that the fan clutch isn't bad.

I have a 98 F-150 4.6L 208K. Did a flush on mine several years back and it was nasty.


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## A Watchman (Sep 14, 2015)

Kauboy said:


> So, water pump is in, flushed all the hoses and orifices I could reach on the entire cooling system, drained everything, reattached everything, and filled her up with 50/50 diluted gold coolant and distilled water, as Ford recommends. Drove it around until reaching operating temp, kept heat dial on. Turned on blower and got the same short burst of warm air. Drove around a bit more and parked it to idle for a while. Cleaned the windshield to kill time. When I tried the heat again, it was a longer period of warmth, but not very hot.
> It's cooling now on an incline to allow bubbles to escape. No radiator cap, only a reservoir cap, so this is all I can do to "burp" it. Then I'll top it off again and see how things go. I plan to keep some premixed coolant with me, just in case.
> I double checked the blend door actuator, and the sound is clear as a bell. It's working fine.
> If this isn't the fix, it has to be the core... ugh.


I checked with a mechanic friend of mine today who owns a 02 Ford Truck. I relayed what you have done to date. He says it is the actuator. If you are sure this is opening and closing properly......... next step is remove the dash, as you know. Sorry Kauboy.


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## txmarine6531 (Nov 18, 2015)

Dashes aren't as bad as you think. I've pulled many dashes on many makes/models. Toyota has a recall out on dashes for Camry, Corolla, Highlander. I've done several in the past 2 months. Also torn dashes out of a couple brand new Tundras. You will need to evac/recharge your a/c system.


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## Slack Jaw Yokel (Oct 20, 2014)

Not sure if you got an answer to this problem yet but I would guess that the actuator motor is not flipping all the way to heat. I assume that your air is working fine? If that is the case try this, it should only take you five minutes. Remove the glove box then start the truck and find the actuator motor (down toward drivers side)and you will see a lever that controls the heat/air. Switch from air to heat and see if the lever moves all the way. If not reach into the dash when the truck is running and move the lever manually. It is small be careful. If you get heat you have a bad motor. I suspect this is the cause, if not I have a few other simple tests you could try. I am sure if you search around you could probably find a tech video on this somewhere. Good Luck.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

txmarine6531 said:


> When using 50/50, there's no need to add water. And it's cheaper to buy full strength coolant and a gallon or so of water. Without an air lift, letting it idle for a bit, then bringing up the RPMs to around 2,000 for a bit and letting it idle for a bit more is the only way to burp it. When it cools it'll suck coolant in if there's room for it. And yes the rust is from the block, normal. Did you flush it both directions or just one? And did you use detergent? What was the flow like coming out of the core? Should have close to hose pressure. Make sure you don't have any collapsed hoses and that the fan clutch isn't bad.
> 
> I have a 98 F-150 4.6L 208K. Did a flush on mine several years back and it was nasty.


I may have worded it poorly. The coolant was concentrated, and I used distilled water to make a 50/50 ratio.
I could not reach the second heater core hose to do a proper flush. It is blocked by the rigid fuel rail, and I'm not able to get a grip on the clamp. I'm unsure as to which hose I was using when I flushed it. (inlet or outlet) It was near the front of the engine, just above and to the side of the water pump. The other connector is at the back behind the intake manifold. I did not use a detergent, just water. I have no easy way to pressurize the system, so I'm sure my attempt was shoddy at best. All hoses are good. How can I check the fan clutch? It spins fine, as it is attached to the water pump spun by the drive belt. When does the clutch engage? The fan was spinning the whole time I was observing it.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

A Watchman said:


> I checked with a mechanic friend of mine today who owns a 02 Ford Truck. I relayed what you have done to date. He says it is the actuator. If you are sure this is opening and closing properly......... next step is remove the dash, as you know. Sorry Kauboy.


I can hear the actuator on the blender door move fully in both directions when I change temps. A 3 second whiring noise with a drop off at the end of the action.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

txmarine6531 said:


> Dashes aren't as bad as you think. I've pulled many dashes on many makes/models. Toyota has a recall out on dashes for Camry, Corolla, Highlander. I've done several in the past 2 months. Also torn dashes out of a couple brand new Tundras. You will need to evac/recharge your a/c system.


From all the posts I've read, and videos I've watched, on dash removal and core replacement, none mention doing anything to the AC side. Is that common on other models?


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

Something I just remembered after watching yet another heater core video...
My hoses were not the same temperature. The easy to get one I could not hold for more that 2 seconds. The harder to reach one could be held for 5 or more.
When originally diagnosing, I was only reading that one would be cold if the core was obstructed, and mine wasn't, so I disregarded it.
After watching this latest video, the guy said the outlet hose was "less hot" than the inlet one. He flushed the core, and everything was peachy again. That also tells me which is which.
Now I have to devote the time to pulling the fuel rail to reach the hose clamp.
Sounds like another productive weekend ahead. :banghead:


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

Drained the coolant a bit.
Spliced into the outlet hose.
Took my compressor, dialed her down to 20psi, and flushed the heater core.
Some sediment came out the other hose, and I had full flow.
Filled the core with cleaner, and let it set for 10 minutes.
Back flushed the cleaner out with 3 rounds of distilled water and pressure.
One flush in the normal direction.
Quite a bit of rust sediment in the catch jug after all the flushing.
Sealed the splice with an inline "T" and hose clamps.
Refilled the whole system.
Started her up and brought her up to operating temp. Revved to 2k rpm for about 5 minutes to get the air bubbles moving out.
After reaching full temp, kicked on the heat controls...

*I HAVE HEAT AGAIN!!!!*


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## SGG (Nov 25, 2015)

Excellent news. Great work. Bet it feels great emotionally and physically


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## SGG (Nov 25, 2015)

Fn fords


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

SGG said:


> Fn fords


*F*ix *O*r *R*epair *D*aily...
It pains me, but so true sometimes.

She's officially made it 200K. I think she's inclined to fits now and then.


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## txmarine6531 (Nov 18, 2015)

Kauboy said:


> From all the posts I've read, and videos I've watched, on dash removal and core replacement, none mention doing anything to the AC side. Is that common on other models?


In my experience yes, because the heater core and evap core are in the same housing.


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## txmarine6531 (Nov 18, 2015)

Kauboy said:


> *F*ix *O*r *R*epair *D*aily...
> I pains me, but so true sometimes.
> 
> She's officially made it 200K. I think she's inclined to fits now and then.


First On Race Day!! All kidding aside, good job, glad you have heat again. Hope you used a brass fitting. Plastic ones will get brittle and break from the heat cycles. It's bit me before.


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## Montana Rancher (Mar 4, 2013)

Kauboy said:


> I've got an '02 F150 with a 5.4L V8 with 200K miles on it.
> As it's gotten colder, I've tried to use my heater, and it's lackluster at best.
> In the past, I've only needed to let the engine reach operating temperature, and the heat flows like magic.
> This year has been different. I allow the temp to rise, I kick on the blower, and for 15 seconds, I get magic.
> ...


Sorry for the late rely and I hope after 5 pages of post some shade tree mechanic has suggested you heater core is plugged up, not easy to replace but not the end of the world.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

txmarine6531 said:


> First On Race Day!! All kidding aside, good job, glad you have heat again. Hope you used a brass fitting. Plastic ones will get brittle and break from the heat cycles. It's bit me before.


Plastic was all I had on hand, but swapping it will be easy enough. I will be picking up a permanent fixture this week.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

txmarine6531 said:


> In my experience yes, because the heater core and evap core are in the same housing.


They are indeed in the same housing, but they are independent systems, thank goodness.
Replacing one does not require working with the other.


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## SGG (Nov 25, 2015)

Kauboy said:


> *F*ix *O*r *R*epair *D*aily...
> I pains me, but so true sometimes.
> 
> She's officially made it 200K. I think she's inclined to fits now and then.


Traded off my 2011 f150 ecoboost v6 at less than 90k for timing chain rattle. Proven problem that ford denied. My dealership "couldn't replicate" my cold start rattle that I took video of EVERY day for a solid week before taking it in. Days later I traded the pos off. Days later....Ford released TSB that replaced chain, phasers, whole works, UNDER warranty. I'll never go back to a newer, ESPECIALLY a turbo'd ford


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## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

First On Race Day


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## SGG (Nov 25, 2015)

****ed Up Research and Development


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## SGG (Nov 25, 2015)

Oops...too many beers. Still...ain't editing^^^


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

SGG said:


> Traded off my 2011 f150 ecoboost v6 at less than 90k for timing chain rattle. Proven problem that ford denied. My dealership "couldn't replicate" my cold start rattle that I took video of EVERY day for a solid week before taking it in. Days later I traded the pos off. Days later....Ford released TSB that replaced chain, phasers, whole works, UNDER warranty. I'll never go back to a newer, ESPECIALLY a turbo'd ford


I get a rattle on cold starts after sitting for a day or two. I think it's a valve though. Goes away quickly, and Lucas in the oil change reduces the occurrence.


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## txmarine6531 (Nov 18, 2015)

Kauboy said:


> They are indeed in the same housing, but they are independent systems, thank goodness.
> Replacing one does not require working with the other.


In order to remove the case, the a/c lines have to be removed on the outside of the firewall as well as the heater hoses. A lot of shade tree mechanics just bleed the refridgerant into the atmosphere. Probably why nothing was mentioned in forums.


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## txmarine6531 (Nov 18, 2015)

SGG said:


> Traded off my 2011 f150 ecoboost v6 at less than 90k for timing chain rattle. Proven problem that ford denied. My dealership "couldn't replicate" my cold start rattle that I took video of EVERY day for a solid week before taking it in. Days later I traded the pos off. Days later....Ford released TSB that replaced chain, phasers, whole works, UNDER warranty. I'll never go back to a newer, ESPECIALLY a turbo'd ford


Oil ports in the cam phasers are small and if there's not enough oil getting in they rattle, usually due to build up. Even if you change your oil at every interval, you will get build up. No two ways around it. The detergent in engine oil sucks, running 1 quart of ATF is the best method of "cleaning" your engine. The cold start rattle started happening in the new body 04's and up. Lot's got replaced at my old job. Toyota has the same issue on the 4 and 6 cylinders in cars and small SUV's of certain years. Theirs is the intake camshaft VVT-I gear. I've replaced a lot of those. No matter what brand of vehicle you point to, you'll find all kinds of issues. Mainly on euros and Chryslers.


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## txmarine6531 (Nov 18, 2015)

Kauboy said:


> I get a rattle on cold starts after sitting for a day or two. I think it's a valve though. Goes away quickly, and Lucas in the oil change reduces the occurrence.


Hydraulic lifters (lash adjusters) are bleeding down. Happens on high mileage engines.


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## SGG (Nov 25, 2015)

txmarine6531 said:


> Oil ports in the cam phasers are small and if there's not enough oil getting in they rattle, usually due to build up. Even if you change your oil at every interval, you will get build up. No two ways around it. The detergent in engine oil sucks, running 1 quart of ATF is the best method of "cleaning" your engine. The cold start rattle started happening in the new body 04's and up. Lot's got replaced at my old job. Toyota has the same issue on the 4 and 6 cylinders in cars and small SUV's of certain years. Theirs is the intake camshaft VVT-I gear. I've replaced a lot of those. No matter what brand of vehicle you point to, you'll find all kinds of issues. Mainly on euros and Chryslers.


Actually on the ecoboost it's caused by oil blow by. Oil level rises. Lots of ecoboosts blowing. Mine was about to. Feel sorry for the sap that overpaid for my 100k mile ecocrap. Dealership was asking $3000 more than I paid for it


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## txmarine6531 (Nov 18, 2015)

SGG said:


> Actually on the ecoboost it's caused by oil blow by. Oil level rises. Lots of ecoboosts blowing. Mine was about to. Feel sorry for the sap that overpaid for my 100k mile ecocrap. Dealership was asking $3000 more than I paid for it


I gotcha, I assumed it was caused by the same things as the NA engines. The eco boost is an engine I don't have much experience with. When I came to the Toyota dealer I'm at now, we weren't seeing any higher mileage ecoboosts, just very low mileage ones. And I think most trucks are over priced. A brand new Tacoma with options will run you 40K or better. Might as well get a full size truck for that price.


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## bigwheel (Sep 22, 2014)

Prob got a crudded up radiator. Take out the thermostat and remove the hose at the bottom of the radiator. Get a high pressure garden hose and shoot strong water up through it from the bottom to the top. Try that and report back. Wrap a red rag around the hose to make it sorta seal. Put a hotter thermostat in while you got it unhooked.


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## SGG (Nov 25, 2015)

txmarine6531 said:


> I gotcha, I assumed it was caused by the same things as the NA engines. The eco boost is an engine I don't have much experience with. When I came to the Toyota dealer I'm at now, we weren't seeing any higher mileage ecoboosts, just very low mileage ones. And I think most trucks are over priced. A brand new Tacoma with options will run you 40K or better. Might as well get a full size truck for that price.


Yup frontier and canyon/Colorado can run $40k too! When I saw sticker I was wtf.. who the hell???
My f150 (fully optioned FX4) stickered at $45k. Didn't pay that as I bought it used.
Forums have been a great help, and I'm glad I saw the signs before mine blew.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

txmarine6531 said:


> In order to remove the case, the a/c lines have to be removed on the outside of the firewall as well as the heater hoses. A lot of shade tree mechanics just bleed the refridgerant into the atmosphere. Probably why nothing was mentioned in forums.


In these F150s, the box containing the heater core and evap coil is two halves. No need to remove the whole thing to get inside. The top just comes off with a few hex screws. There is zero interaction with the evap or its lines when getting to the heater core. Once the dash is off, the rest is actually kinda simple.


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