# Grandpas boning knife scale replacement project.



## hawgrider

I posted this knife up in another thread here so you've seen how bad the wood was its been that way for a few decades as Grandpa had it wrapped with electrical tape :vs_shocked:

So one of our members here contacted me and offered to help me out with some really neat knife scale stock


> Common Name(s): Purpleheart, Amaranth
> 
> Scientific Name: Peltogyne spp.
> 
> Distribution: Central and South America (from Mexico down to southern Brazil)
> 
> Rot Resistance: Purpleheart is rated as being very durable, and resists both decay and most insect attacks, though it has been reported to be susceptible to attack from marine borers.
> 
> https://www.wood-database.com/purpleheart/


.

I just got them in the mail yesterday so the project begins and nope I've never done this before so here we slowly go.









Step one I peeled off the old wood and then.....

Did a bunch of research on how I was going to attach the new scales. I think after seeing several ways to pin them or use Cutlery Rivets I think Im going to use epoxy and brass rod pins. Ive got lots of cleanup to do so this will be a slow ongoing project while I fit it in with my day job and my after work leather work and other duties. I'll post up the progress as it happens.

and a *HUGE thanks* to the kindness of that member here who provided the wood stocks and sent them to me no charge.
(I'd name him but I didn't ask him if I could so unless he pipes up its a secret)


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## hawgrider

This was the real bad side-


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## SOCOM42

@hawgrider, If that wood is a member of the IPE family, be careful.

IF you get a sliver from it, pull as soon as possible, your immune system cannot dissolve it as with other woods.

Left buried next to a piece of pine for a few years, then dug up,

the pine is gone and IPE is just as good as the day it went in the ground.

A bunch of 2 x 4's of it got buried here for about 22 years, got dug up in a landscaping operation, good as the day it went in.

For all practical purposes, it can be considered poisonous, do not breath in the saw dust.

I loved throwing it in the stove for the aromatic release, something like chocolate and cinnamon mix.

Burns like coal.

You almost need a machine shop to work the stuff.

Pulled from the net;

Rot Resistance: Rated as very durable; excellent insect resistance, though some species are susceptible to marine borers. Superb weathering characteristics. (Ipe was used for the boardwalk along the beach of New York City's Coney Island, and was said to have lasted 25 years before it needed to be replaced: an amazing lifespan given the amount of traffic and environmental stresses put upon the wood.)

Workability: Overall, Ipe is a difficult wood to work, being extremely hard and dense, with high cutting resistance during sawing. Ipe also has a pronounced blunting effect on cutting edges. The wood generally planes smoothly, but the grain can tearout on interlocked areas. Also, Ipe can be difficult to glue properly, and surface preparation prior to gluing is recommended. Straight-grained wood turns well, though the natural powdery yellow deposits can sometimes interfere with polishing or finishing the wood.

Odor: Ipe has a mild scent while being worked.
Allergies/Toxicity: Although severe reactions are quite uncommon, Ipe has been reported to cause skin, eye, and respiratory irritation, as well as other effects such as headaches, asthma-like symptoms, and/or disturbance of vision. See the articles Wood Allergies and Toxicity and Wood Dust Safety for more information.


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## Slippy

Excellent project! Looking forward to seeing more. The Purpleheart Wood looks great.


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## Robie

> If that wood is a member of the IPE family, be careful.


It's not.

Purpleheart has about the same toxicity as walnut.

Of course, all woods when sanded have some level of toxicity and different people react differently to long exposure of dust.


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## hawgrider

SOCOM42 said:


> @hawgrider, If that wood is a member of the IPE family, be careful.
> 
> IF you get a sliver from it, pull as soon as possible, your immune system cannot dissolve it as with other woods.
> 
> Left buried next to a piece of pine for a few years, then dug up,
> 
> the pine is gone and IPE is just as good as the day it went in the ground.
> 
> A bunch of 2 x 4's of it got buried here for about 22 years, got dug up in a landscaping operation, good as the day it went in.
> 
> For all practical purposes, it can be considered poisonous, do not breath in the saw dust.
> 
> I loved throwing it in the stove for the aromatic release, something like chocolate and cinnamon mix.
> 
> Burns like coal.
> 
> You almost need a machine shop to work the stuff.
> 
> Pulled from the net;
> 
> Rot Resistance: Rated as very durable; excellent insect resistance, though some species are susceptible to marine borers. Superb weathering characteristics. (Ipe was used for the boardwalk along the beach of New York City's Coney Island, and was said to have lasted 25 years before it needed to be replaced: an amazing lifespan given the amount of traffic and environmental stresses put upon the wood.)
> 
> Workability: Overall, Ipe is a difficult wood to work, being extremely hard and dense, with high cutting resistance during sawing. Ipe also has a pronounced blunting effect on cutting edges. The wood generally planes smoothly, but the grain can tearout on interlocked areas. Also, Ipe can be difficult to glue properly, and surface preparation prior to gluing is recommended. Straight-grained wood turns well, though the natural powdery yellow deposits can sometimes interfere with polishing or finishing the wood.
> 
> Odor: Ipe has a mild scent while being worked.
> Allergies/Toxicity: Although severe reactions are quite uncommon, Ipe has been reported to cause skin, eye, and respiratory irritation, as well as other effects such as headaches, asthma-like symptoms, and/or disturbance of vision. See the articles Wood Allergies and Toxicity and Wood Dust Safety for more information.


I did some reading on it as Id never heard of it. I'll do any trimming sanding outside to be safe as I have a beard so PPE mask won't seal well on my mug. Interesting wood it is and the color is like nothing I've ever seen. The rot resistance should make this a good use for it. This wood and knife handle replacement is a new experience for me as I do my best wood work with a chainsaw :tango_face_grin:


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## hawgrider

How do you guys feel about using this method for attachment? "Epoxy and brass rod pins."


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## Robie

> Yup that's the stuff.


No, it really isn't.

Ipe also goes by the name of ironwood. Toughest wood to work on the planet.

Purpleheart is not Ipe.


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## hawgrider

Robie said:


> No, it really isn't.
> 
> Ipe also goes by the name of ironwood. Toughest wood to work on the planet.
> 
> Purpleheart is not Ipe.





> Yup that's the stuff.


I edited that out shortly after I looked up the definition



> Ipe (spelled ipe and pronounced "ee-pay"), also called Brazilian walnut, is a beautiful exotic wood from South America. Ipe wood structures are hard, strong, and naturally resistant to rot, abrasion, weather, and insects. It is almost twice as dense as most woods and up to five times harder.


From the same country but not walnut right?


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## Robie

> From the same country but not walnut right?


Like meat and potatoes.


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## SOCOM42

Robie said:


> No, it really isn't.
> 
> Ipe also goes by the name of ironwood. Toughest wood to work on the planet.
> 
> Purpleheart is not Ipe.


I figured you would know.:tango_face_grin:

I am not a woodworker, but had a contract to machine a bunch of stuff from it.

Still have 30 some odd pieces of 2"x 4" x 36" laying around to make handles out of.

Made great billy clubs out of it until everyone had to go to the expandable baton.


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## SOCOM42

hawgrider said:


> How do you guys feel about using this method for attachment? "Epoxy and brass rod pins."


You may find those brass screw jobs in a hardware store.

Rivets are tough to work with and can split the wood if you miss.


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## Robie

I'm the member that supplied the purpleheart...glad to do it.

I've worked with the stuff for many years...never wear a mask in the shop....and haven't seen any adverse effects...except for this twitch that developed after I cut it the first time....:devil:

The stuff that gives me the most trouble is cedar. That will make me sniff and sneeze a bit but never had any problem with purpleheart.

And, with this being such a small project, I seriously doubt there will be any problems from the wood. Maybe from sharp metal edges but not from the wood.:devil:

When you git-r-done, oil it up and admire. It will turn more of a brown over time.


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## Chiefster23

Beautiful wood. I can’t wait to see the finished product.


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## Chiefster23

Just a thought....... have you considered copper rivets? That copper color would really go well with the wood color.


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## Mad Trapper

Track of the Wolf is a good source for cultler rivets and pins.

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/455/1

I've only just started to make knives from blanks and I've used the rivets in conjunction with epoxy.

My first bunch were for the kitchen for steak and pairing knives. I used osage orange for staves and Russel Green River stainless blanks.


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## hawgrider

Robie said:


> I'm the member that supplied the purpleheart...glad to do it.
> 
> I've worked with the stuff for many years...never wear a mask in the shop....and haven't seen any adverse effects...except for this twitch that developed after I cut it the first time....:devil:
> 
> The stuff that gives me the most trouble is cedar. That will make me sniff and sneeze a bit but never had any problem with purpleheart.
> 
> And, with this being such a small project, I seriously doubt there will be any problems from the wood. Maybe from sharp metal edges but not from the wood.:devil:
> 
> *When you git-r-done, oil it up and admire. It will turn more of a brown over time*.


And there he is! I wasn't gonna rat you out.:vs_lol:

I think I'm going to do just that and oil it up for the finish.



SOCOM42 said:


> You may find those brass screw jobs in a hardware store.
> 
> Rivets are tough to work with* and can split the wood if you miss*.


Yes Im going to avoid the Cutlery rivets and just use the brass rod Pin method so there will be no pounding they would be set with the epoxy and filed flush. So all I'll have to do is drill and trim /sand the scales.

Rough up the brass-





Then maybe do similar as this method-


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## hawgrider

Chiefster23 said:


> Just a thought....... have you considered copper rivets? That copper color would really go well with the wood color.


Yes if I can find solid copper as Id prefer not to have a hole in the middle of the pin as you would from using plumbing copper.


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## hawgrider

Mad Trapper said:


> Track of the Wolf is a good source for cultler rivets and pins.
> 
> https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/455/1
> 
> I've only just started to make knives from blanks and I've used the rivets in conjunction with epoxy.
> 
> My first bunch were for the kitchen for steak and pairing knives. I used osage orange for staves and Russel Green River stainless blanks.
> 
> View attachment 102975


Yes that the look I want to go for right there.

Thanks for the link they have exactly the brass stock I need.


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## Robie

I've never made a knife but have used epoxy often.

Just a few tips...

Clean the metal tang well with something like lacquer thinner so any/all waxes or oils are removed.

I'd put some severe scratches on everything that will touch the epoxy...the tang, the wood and the brass. It will help give the epoxy something to cling to.

After you get the epoxy applied....I'd leave it alone for at least a few days to make absolutely sure it has cured.


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## Mad Trapper

The two piece cutlery rivets work great. Snip them to match the thickness of the staves and countersink the holes before you set them. They sand down flush when you finish the staves.


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## hawgrider

Robie said:


> I've never made a knife but have used epoxy often.
> 
> Just a few tips...
> 
> Clean the metal tang well with something like lacquer thinner so any/all waxes or oils are removed.
> 
> I'd put some severe scratches on everything that will touch the epoxy...the tang, the wood and the brass. It will help give the epoxy something to cling to.
> 
> After you get the epoxy applied....I'd leave it alone for at least a few days to make absolutely sure it has cured.


Agree yup Im thinking the same. Sounds like Im headin in the right direction.


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## hawgrider

Mad Trapper said:


> The two piece cutlery rivets work great. Snip them to match the thickness of the staves and countersink the holes before you set them. They sand down flush when you finish the staves.


I watched a vid of a guy using those last nite. My only worry with those is the counter sink and thickness has to be right no margin for error. Right?


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## Robie

hawgrider said:


> I watched a vid of a guy using those last nite. My only worry with those is the counter sink and thickness has to be right no margin for error. Right?


Not to get stupid about the wording but I think the term would be "counterboring". A countersink is usually a tapered hole to accept a flat head screw or the like. A counterbore has a flat bottom to it so the hole fits the head of the rivet.

My personal choice would be a Forstner bit for something like that...the exact diameter of the rivet. I'd opt for a drill press also. The Forstener bit will give you a dimple that you can use as alignment for the drill bit for the shank of the rivet.

Not sure how Mad does it and he probably has different/better options.


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## Mad Trapper

hawgrider said:


> I watched a vid of a guy using those last nite. My only worry with those is the counter sink and thickness has to be right no margin for error. Right?


if you make them too long they won't set flush and will bend, just remove it and cut next one a tad shorter. The rivets cost ~$0.25 if you buy 100, $0.35 each. TOTW sells the correct countersink pilots $8:

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/455/1/DRILL-PCB-5

"This piloted counter bore is ideal to countersink the head of the #RIVET-5 in wood, bone, or similar materials. It is NOT intended for use with metal! The 5/16" diameter has a #21 (.159" diameter) pilot. Use a #21 drill bit and pre-drill each rivet location, then follow up with this tool to piloted counter bore for the rivet head. Wear safety glasses during any drilling operation."

The heads will be a little proud of the stave even when countersunk, but not by much, just sand them flush


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## hawgrider

Robie said:


> Not to get stupid about the wording but I think the term would be "counterboring". A countersink is usually a tapered hole to accept a flat head screw or the like. A counterbore has a flat bottom to it so the hole fits the head of the rivet.
> 
> My personal choice would be a Forstner bit for something like that...the exact diameter of the rivet. I'd opt for a drill press also. The Forstener bit will give you a dimple that you can use as alignment for the drill bit for the shank of the rivet.
> 
> Not sure how Mad does it and he probably has different/better options.


I'm going to be using mostly all hand tools. no drill press etc. I'm leary of the counterbore which is why Im considering just using the epoxy and brass pin method. Hand hack saw to cut them off then hand file then sand.


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## Robie

> if you make them too long they won't set flush and will bend, just remove it and cut next one a tad shorter. The rivets cost ~$0.25 if you buy 100, $0.35 each. TOTW sells the correct countersink pilots $8:


Very cool!


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## Mad Trapper

Robie said:


> Not to get stupid about the wording but I think the term would be "counterboring". A countersink is usually a tapered hole to accept a flat head screw or the like. A counterbore has a flat bottom to it so the hole fits the head of the rivet.
> 
> My personal choice would be a Forstner bit for something like that...the exact diameter of the rivet. I'd opt for a drill press also. The Forstener bit will give you a dimple that you can use as alignment for the drill bit for the shank of the rivet.
> 
> Not sure how Mad does it and he probably has different/better options.


You are correct Robbie, counterbore. TOTW sells those too, work great.


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## Mad Trapper

If that wood is anything like osage, it will be hard to even file it. I used an angle grinder and dremel quite a bit. The dremel would burn the wood if you were not careful.

I guess one thing to consider is the dia of the original rivets and will you be using the same holes to place the rivets?

The the knife blanks I purchased were pre-drilled but a bit undersized. The steel was tough stuff, cobalt bits were slow. I clamped up one roughed out stave and drilled the steel and one stave to locate the holes. Then clamped the other stave on and drilled from the other side stave side so everything lined up ( I used a small vice and pine scraps to hold things).

You can rough out the staves shapes prior to this but I do the clamping/drilling on rough wood so any marks get sanded out, along with the rivet heads. A coping saw is handy to shape the staves prior to drilling/riveting/filing/grinding/sanding.

I also shaped the steel blanks so the staves could have curves to match your hand. Compare with finished handle


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## Robie

The purpleheart burns easily also. If I didn't own one, I'd invest or borrow a cheap random orbital sander and a pack of assorted sanding discs from #60 through #180. it would make life a lot easier.


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## hawgrider

Robie said:


> The purpleheart burns easily also. If I didn't own one, I'd invest or borrow a cheap random orbital sander and a pack of assorted sanding discs from #60 through #180. it would make life a lot easier.


I've got some of these and a air tool.









I do actually have a hand held belt sander and lots of files :tango_face_smile:


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## Mad Trapper

One other thing, make the staves a bit proud of the steel knife tang. When attached/glued/riveted, file the wood back smooth with the metal.

Robie, ever hear of greenheart wood? It's supposed to be tough stuff too, so dense it sinks.

Read about that when reading _Endurance_, the Ernest Shackelton expedition. His boat was sheathed in greenheart.


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## Robie

> I do actually have a hand held belt sander and lots of files


I would probably mount it upside down in a vise and use it that way. I don't think the round pad you pictured is going to do much....imo.


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## Robie

Mad Trapper said:


> One other thing, make the staves a bit proud of the steel knife tang. When attached/glued/riveted, file the wood back smooth with the metal.
> 
> Robie, ever hear of greenheart wood? It's supposed to be tough stuff too, so dense it sinks.
> 
> Read about that when reading _Endurance_, the Ernest Shackelton expedition. His boat was sheathed in greenheart.


Nope, this is the first time.



> Explosive as well as poisonous, greenheart does have some good qualities-like durability that rivals teak's. Sawyers in Guyana, Surinam, and Venezuela have nasty enough work in the tropical heat day in and day out without worrying about exploding logs on top of it all. But when a load of greenheart comes to the mill, they treat the logs like a truckload of ticking time bombs.
> 
> The species Ocotea rodiei, it seems, has an usual tendency to split apart so quickly and with such force that pieces of the log can fly when air hits the saw kerf. In at least one instance, sections of a greenheart log actually pierced a mill roof. To prevent such mishaps, mill hands secure the section of the log that has already passed through the saw with a stout chain.
> 
> As if controlling greenheart's explosive tendency isn't a scary enough situation, all who work the wood also must avoid getting splinters. That's because greenheart, while nontoxic and nonirritating to the touch, somehow causes severe infection when splinters of it penetrate the skin.
> 
> "Why do these lumberman even bother with the wood?" For several reasons. Besides being a pretty wood, greenheart ranks second only to teak in its natural resistance to marine borers and other insects attacks.
> 
> It also has high shock resistance, great crushing strength, a high density, and takes a polish with little effort. Such attributes attract ship and boat builders. Before man-made materials, fishing rod makers liked greenheart because it bent without breaking.


https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/wood-species-2/greenheart


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## 1skrewsloose

I like to use Chicago screws cut to length when I replace handles and do leather work vs rivets. Like it when I can take it apart and re-do if neccessary.


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## hawgrider

Robie said:


> I would probably mount it upside down in a vise and use it that way. I don't think the round pad you pictured is going to do much....imo.


That's how I mount the belt sander for my leather work right in the vise she goes.

I use those round pads for removing hardened boiler gaskets material they are pretty tough but I have never tried them on wood.


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## hawgrider

1skrewsloose said:


> I like to use Chicago screws cut to length when I replace handles and do leather work vs rivets. Like it when *I can take it apart and re-do* if neccessary.


Yeah I'm certainly the redo kinda guy. I do OK avoiding 3 strikes your out but It can take one or twice to get it right for me.:tango_face_grin:


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## Mad Trapper

I am down to my last osage staves, it don't grow here. But we do have mullberry, a relative.

Anybody work with mullberry? I just had a big one die and I'm thinking of milling up stuff for projects.

My next go to for staves will be heartwood black cherry. Not real hard but great for rot.


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## Mad Trapper

hawgrider said:


> That's how I mount the belt sander for my leather work right in the vise she goes.
> 
> I use those round pads for removing hardened boiler gaskets material they are pretty tough but I have never tried them on wood.


I take pine scraps and staple sandpaper to the size sanding blocks I need. Real small blocks are handy working on small projects. Wrap the paper around the block and staple non-working side.

Cost is the paper and a few staples. Make up several grits for start to finish.

Works on dowels/sticks too if you are working curved surfaces


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## hawgrider

Mad Trapper said:


> I am down to my last osage staves, it don't grow here. But we do have mullberry, a relative.
> 
> Anybody work with mullberry? I just had a big one die and I'm thinking of milling up stuff for projects.
> 
> My next go to for staves will be heartwood black cherry. Not real hard but great for rot.


Mulberry ? Um yup got one in the front yard that I kept for the grand kids but noticed in the fall it was bleeding pretty bad so it may come down soon. Some bug got it or? But interesting you mention that I may have to keep some of it for future use.


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## Robie

Never worked with it but many woodworkers do.

I've used it for firewood and it's a great choice for that.


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## Mad Trapper

hawgrider said:


> Mulberry ? Um yup got one in the front yard that I kept for the grand kids but noticed in the fall it was bleeding pretty bad so it may come down soon. Some bug got it or? But interesting you mention that I may have to keep some of it for future use.


We have a real big mullberry, huge. 2-3 years ago we had a crazy late winter-spring, got to 70s then to below zero. A lot of the tree didn't leaf out, thought it was freeze kill?

But it's worse now and most of tree did not put out leaves last spring. Not sure if it's a disease or bugs?

I will miss that tree, mullberries are blackberries on a tree. Besides that, the birds went after the mullberries instead of my blueberries.

I won't get any framing lumber from it, but lots of smaller craft wood.


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## Robie

Hey hawg!!!

The pressure is on for you to create a thing of beauty...a work of art.

Sorry, couldn't resist.


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## hawgrider

Robie said:


> Hey hawg!!!
> 
> The pressure is on for you to create a thing of beauty...a work of art.
> 
> Sorry, couldn't resist.


Yeah I'm starting to regret the thread LOL Keep in mind my life philosophy is - "good enough for who it's for "


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## Mad Trapper

You can always work up some pine staves for practice. Whittling knife will do that.


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## SOCOM42

hawgrider said:


> Mulberry ? Um yup got one in the front yard that I kept for the grand kids but noticed in the fall it was bleeding pretty bad so it may come down soon. Some bug got it or? But interesting you mention that I may have to keep some of it for future use.


We had a mulberry tree in the front yard when I was a kid.

The birds by the dozens use to gag down the ripe berries.

That tree bled all the time from one place, it is still there and alive.

The grandparents planted it in the 1890''s.


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## hawgrider

SOCOM42 said:


> We had a mulberry tree in the front yard when I was a kid.
> 
> The birds by the dozens use to gag down the ripe berries.
> 
> That tree bled all the time from one place, it is still there and alive.
> 
> The grandparents planted it in the 1890''s.


Yours was a bleeder eh! Glad you said that I better leave it up then if it will live. The grand kids would miss it.

1890's wow that tree is a survivor right there!


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## hawgrider

Mad Trapper said:


> You can always work up some pine staves for practice. Whittling knife will do that.


That's not a bad Idea I'm starting to get nervous about cutting and drilling the purple heart wood.:vs_bulb:


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## Slippy

hawgrider said:


> That's not a bad Idea I'm starting to get nervous about cutting and drilling the purple heart wood.:vs_bulb:


Hawg,

I think you may have posted something like this before but after you finish that project maybe you can try the Denim Handle Scales project?

https://www.offgridweb.com/preparation/making-a-diy-knife-with-denim-handle-scales/


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## Mad Trapper

hawgrider said:


> That's not a bad Idea I'm starting to get nervous about cutting and drilling the purple heart wood.:vs_bulb:


If you do, make those as templates for the nice wood. That is some purty shit! Robie found You great stuff.

Not sure how You would finish those staves? A rubbed oil or a sealer?

I liked the orange of my osage staves, and marine spar varnish keeps out light a bit, so I did my kitchen knives with that. Still bright orange. If I need to I'll sand them and recoat.

I wonder how linseed or tung oil would compare?

Here's an idea, take the cutoff/scraps, treat them with finish, to see what works for You.


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## Robie

hawgrider said:


> That's not a bad Idea I'm starting to get nervous about cutting and drilling the purple heart wood.:vs_bulb:


I sent two so you could screw up the first one.:vs_laugh:

Plenty more where that came from.


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## hawgrider

Mad Trapper said:


> If you do, make those as templates for the nice wood. That is some purty shit! Robie found You great stuff.
> 
> Not sure how You would finish those staves? A rubbed oil or a sealer?
> 
> I liked the orange of my osage staves, and marine spar varnish keeps out light a bit, so I did my kitchen knives with that. Still bright orange. If I need to I'll sand them and recoat.
> 
> I wonder how linseed or tung oil would compare?
> 
> Here's an idea, take the cutoff/scraps, treat them with finish, to see what works for You.


They are purdy and I do my best work with a chainsaw. :vs_shocked:

Leaning towards oil right now. Yes definitely want to test an area before I commit.


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## hawgrider

Robie said:


> I sent two so you could screw up the first one.:vs_laugh:
> 
> Plenty more where that came from.


Yes you did. You know me pretty well don't you :vs_lol:


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## Robie

Is it done yet? :vs_laugh::devil:


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## hawgrider

Robie said:


> Is it done yet? :vs_laugh::devil:


Hahaha you funny guy!

Some progress.
I've got the tang and blade cleaned up.
I've got the scales positioned and taped to the tang ready to drill the holes.

I think I'm going to stop at the hardware tomorrow and see if I can find some clear epoxy and some 1/4" brass rod. I dug up four 1/4 drill bits as I suspect ill burn through a few drilling through the tang. The tang currently has 1/8" holes so I'd like to go bigger.

Should I pilot hole the purpleheart wood with an 1/8" bit first?
Will chipping be an issue?


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## SOCOM42

hawgrider said:


> Hahaha you funny guy!
> 
> Some progress.
> 
> Should I pilot hole the purpleheart wood with an 1/8" bit first?
> Will chipping be an issue?


IMHO no, drill the holes in the tang, clamp wood to tang, use tang holes to correctly space holes in wood.

Flip side and do the other one.


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## Robie

SOCOM42 said:


> IMHO no, drill the holes in the tang, clamp wood to tang, use tang holes to correctly space holes in wood.
> 
> Flip side and do the other one.


I concur.


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## hawgrider

SOCOM42 said:


> IMHO no, drill the holes in the tang, clamp wood to tang, use tang holes to correctly space holes in wood.
> 
> Flip side and do the other one.


Sounds like a better plan to wrestle the tang first vs all 3 pieces at once.

Yup much better plan!


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## Robie

I'm sure you know this but just in case...

Lay the purplehaert on another piece of wood so the blowout isn't so extreme when the drill bit exits.


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## SOCOM42

I should have added, place a piece of scrap wood to the outside when clamping to tang.

It will help prevent chipping when drill breaks through.

Robie, you posted while I was typing.


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## hawgrider

Robie said:


> I'm sure you know this but just in case...
> 
> Lay the purplehaert on another piece of wood so the blowout isn't so extreme when the drill bit exits.


Actually nope I am the worlds worst carpenter! Wood is for burning I do my best work with a chainsaw.

Ok so another good course correction. I'd thought about painter tape on the blowout side but the another block of wood is a better option fo sho!

I told you guys I'm a wrench right? :vs_lol:


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## bigwheel

hawgrider said:


> I posted this knife up in another thread here so you've seen how bad the wood was its been that way for a few decades as Grandpa had it wrapped with electrical tape :vs_shocked:
> 
> So one of our members here contacted me and offered to help me out with some really neat knife scale stock .
> 
> I just got them in the mail yesterday so the project begins and nope I've never done this before so here we slowly go.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Step one I peeled off the old wood and then.....
> 
> Did a bunch of research on how I was going to attach the new scales. I think after seeing several ways to pin them or use Cutlery Rivets I think Im going to use epoxy and brass rod pins. Ive got lots of cleanup to do so this will be a slow ongoing project while I fit it in with my day job and my after work leather work and other duties. I'll post up the progress as it happens.
> 
> and a *HUGE thanks* to the kindness of that member here who provided the wood stocks and sent them to me no charge.
> (I'd name him but I didn't ask him if I could so unless he pipes up its a secret)


Wow. Interesting project. We had a talented old farmer in S Texas who made pistol grips and knife handles who favored a super hard wood which I think passes for desert iron wood. About the same properties as what you got but a much different color. It would vary widely from green to birght orange stripes. The farmer looked for it everywhere and said a shrub two foot tall might be a hunded years old. It was hard to work cause it tended to split. When he got some some cut up he submerged in water for at least a year before he worked with it to prevent it splitting. 
https://www.wood-database.com/desert-ironwood/


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## Prepared One

hawgrider said:


> Actually nope I am the worlds worst carpenter! Wood is for burning I do my best work with a chainsaw.
> 
> Ok so another good course correction. I'd thought about painter tape on the blowout side but the another block of wood is a better option fo sho!
> 
> I told you guys I'm a wrench right? :vs_lol:


Maybe you should just wrap the knife handle in duct tape and call it a day. :vs_smirk:


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## hawgrider

Prepared One said:


> Maybe you should just wrap the knife handle in duct tape and call it a day. :vs_smirk:


Black electrical tape worked for Grandpa for almost 2 decades Lmao!


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## Prepared One

hawgrider said:


> Black electrical tape worked for Grandpa for almost 2 decades Lmao!


Works for me!!! I have been known to wrap electrical tape on axe handles, hammers, screwdrivers, etc. when the grip is bad or there was crack in the handle. Still, good luck with the project. I am not wood working guy so I want to see how it comes out.


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## hawgrider

Got the pins made and finally drilled the scales.
Lesson to be learned- buy a freaking drill press!!
Yeah I won't go into details about that :vs_mad:

SOCOM and Robies idea kept me from a blowout. Nice ! No chipping that part worked good.

Had to do some work on the pins they were real tight and would have screwed me at epoxy time.



















One of the big issues I had was on the tang there was a big high spot and the scale on one side wouldn't sit flat so that took a while removing some material from the tang. The high spot is probably why the old scale broke in the first place.

So part of being a wood guy is being able to hide your mistakes right? Ugg! I'm starting to remember why I suck at wood work. It probably would help if I had the proper tools for wood working eh!


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## RubberDuck

Slow and steady with a whole lot of cussing will git r dun right.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## hawgrider

RubberDuck said:


> Slow and steady with a whole lot of cussing will git r dun right.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Got the cussing down pat was speaking fluently several times thru this process. Lets just say I'm a better leathercrafter than a knife fixer upper wood guy :vs_lol:


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## Robie

I think it looks grand.

Good job!


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## hawgrider

Robie said:


> I think it looks grand.
> 
> Good job!


Camera angle is everything :vs_laugh:

I ain't telling what happened till I'm done.

Although I bet you already know what I did even though I tried really hard not to.


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## Deebo

You put the worked wood area away from the knife during assembly, instead of against it? 
Either way, ITS HAND CRAFTED and that has character (not flaws).


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## hawgrider

Deebo said:


> You put the worked wood area away from the knife during assembly, instead of against it?
> Either way, ITS HAND CRAFTED and that has character (not flaws).


Not this time but that's something I'd probably do lol!


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## Robie

Since you mentioned drill press, I'd imagine your holes either weren't straight or you moved the drill and a hole got larger.

If that's what happened, no problem. Make some fine sawdust and mix it with some epoxy and force it into any irregularity. When you get to your application of whatever you are going to use, it will almost disappear. 

And as mentioned...it's character.


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## hawgrider

Robie said:


> Since you mentioned drill press, I'd imagine your holes either weren't straight or you moved the drill and a hole got larger.
> 
> If that's what happened, no problem. Make some fine sawdust and mix it with some epoxy and force it into any irregularity. When you get to your application of whatever you are going to use, it will almost disappear.
> 
> And as mentioned...it's character.


Yup holes on a angle. Thought I had the cordless drill aligned but geesh the slightest angle is unforgiving. I've got everything dry fitted and partially sanded it should still look good we shall see.


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## SOCOM42

Keep it up Hawg, your doing better than most at this stage of the game.

For stuff like that I use a drill press or my Bridgeport milling machine.


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## Deebo

I cant drill a 90 hole to save my life.


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## SOCOM42

Deebo said:


> I cant drill a 90 hole to save my life.


You can if you have the right tool, get a cheap Harbor Freight drill press.


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## handyman

SOCOM42 said:


> You can if you have the right tool, get a cheap Harbor Freight drill press.


Just joined
Next time start with a small drill and work your way up to the size you need
Hope that helps
The project looks good

Sent from my LM-X210(G) using Tapatalk


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## hawgrider

Deebo said:


> I cant drill a 90 hole to save my life.


 I resemble that remark no matter how hard I try. :vs_lol:



SOCOM42 said:


> Keep it up Hawg, your doing better than most at this stage of the game.
> 
> For stuff like that I use a drill press or my Bridgeport milling machine.


 I'm guilty of not having a drill press. I need to do something about that.


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## Robie

> I'm guilty of not having a drill press. I need to do something about that.


I have 5 in the shop...:devil::devil:


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## SOCOM42

My three drills.

This one will take 2 inch drills through steel with a pilot hole.









This was my fathers drill, bought in 1951.









The biggest, it will take 5 inch drills through steel.


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## hawgrider

:77: Yup could sure use a drill press lol!


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## SOCOM42

handyman said:


> Just joined
> Next time start with a small drill and work your way up to the size you need
> Hope that helps
> The project looks good
> 
> Sent from my LM-X210(G) using Tapatalk


Can't do that if using the tang holes as a drill bushing.

The problem here is angle not location or chipping.

The tang sets the location, a press would solve the angle.

I have plenty of experience drilling holes in precise locations.

Millions of them as a matter of fact.

See top picture in post #81, those were done last summer.

There are two small holes being done by that CD that have a +/- location of .0010".

There were 100 pieces with 10 precise holes each, for a total of 1K holes, in only two days.

Have finished holes with location accuracy of .000025" and diametrical tolerance sizes of +.00005"/-0".


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## hawgrider

SOCOM42 said:


> Can't do that if *using the tang holes as a drill bushing.
> 
> The problem here is angle not location or chipping.
> 
> The tang sets the location, a press would solve the angle.*
> 
> I have plenty of experience drilling holes in precise locations.
> 
> Millions of them as a matter of fact.
> 
> See top picture in post #81, those were done last summer.
> 
> There are two small holes being done by that CD that have a +/- location of .0010".
> 
> There were 100 pieces with 10 precise holes each, for a total of 1K holes, in only two days.
> 
> Have finished holes with location accuracy of .000025" and diametrical tolerance sizes of +.00005"/-0".


Yup the holes came out clean as a whistle thanks to the tip of placing another wood block behind the work piece. My perception of straight was the issue. I think it will be fine though for who its for as you can't look at both sides at the same time:tango_face_grin:


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## handyman

Got ya
That's some good precision work.
I do understand that a drill press would make it easier, bridgeport even better.

Sent from my LM-X210(G) using Tapatalk


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## Deebo

Ok you guys are just rubbing my nose it.
Yes, I want a drill press, a Bridgeport mill would be ideal. 
I have access to them at work (full service machine shop and CNC room, but NO WEAPONS PARTS ARE TO BE MADE HERE).
I really want an air compressor first, then the drill press.


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## Mad Trapper

SOCOM42 said:


> Can't do that if using the tang holes as a drill bushing.
> 
> The problem here is angle not location or chipping.
> 
> The tang sets the location, a press would solve the angle.
> 
> I have plenty of experience drilling holes in precise locations.
> 
> Millions of them as a matter of fact.
> 
> See top picture in post #81, those were done last summer.
> 
> There are two small holes being done by that CD that have a +/- location of .0010".
> 
> There were 100 pieces with 10 precise holes each, for a total of 1K holes, in only two days.
> 
> Have finished holes with location accuracy of .000025" and diametrical tolerance sizes of +.00005"/-0".


Only better person to ask would be, my uncle, he built ballistic missiles, in cold war.

SOCOM42 knows machinery +++, most any guns, and a LOT of shit better than most. He's a great guy.

We are lucky to have him posting again!


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## SOCOM42

Deebo said:


> Ok you guys are just rubbing my nose it.
> Yes, I want a drill press, a Bridgeport mill would be ideal.
> I have access to them at work (full service machine shop and CNC room, but NO WEAPONS PARTS ARE TO BE MADE HERE).
> I really want an air compressor first, then the drill press.


You would have loved working here back in the 80'-90's, the workers were allowed to work on anything on their own time.

They could make any parts for a gun, automotive ect, as long as a machine was not needed for production.

Much of the production here was military gun or cannon parts to start with.

Hell, they could walk outside 50' and use the range if wanted.

Whenever I bought a lot of surplus guns (40-50+ in a lot) they were handed out to the guys for free(I got first pick).


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## Deebo

@SOCOM42 there may be a few firearm related parts worked on "govt jobs" after work or break time here, but nothing that the average boss could walk by and say "hey, why is there a gun barrel in the Okawa Lathe?"
Our Code word for a "favor" or part that you need fixed, machined, or welded on off the books and free, is govt job.


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## hawgrider

Epoxy up was today. Show you some progress tomorrow.


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## hawgrider

Been a busy week so I finally got to the glue up.
I used a 5 minute epoxy which wasn't a great idea because I really had to hustle to get all the pieces coated, put in place and clamped. As a result epoxy was flying everywhere as you can see As I wiped the chaos off it pretty much coated the scales and everything else.:vs_whistle:

Removed the clamps today and then will move on to the next steps of sanding some shape into the scales.


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## Inor

hawgrider said:


> Been a busy week so I finally got to the glue up.
> I used a 5 minute epoxy which wasn't a great idea because I really had to hustle to get all the pieces coated, put in place and clamped. As a result epoxy was flying everywhere as you can see As I wiped the chaos off it pretty much coated the scales and everything else.:vs_whistle:
> 
> Removed the clamps today and then will move on to the next steps of sanding some shape into the scales.


That Purpleheart is going to look great! Nicely done!


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## hawgrider

Inor said:


> That Purpleheart is going to look great! Nicely done!


I'm hoping my mistakes will be harder to see after the finish work is done. Time will tell.


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## RubberDuck

Just don't baton logs with it and it will stay beautiful for many years.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## Inor

hawgrider said:


> I'm hoping my mistakes will be harder to see after the finish work is done. Time will tell.


Those are not "mistakes", they are intentional tool marks to prove that it is handmade. (I've been a woodworker my whole life. I know these things.)


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## hawgrider

Initial clean up cut the pins and hit the belt sander I'm liking what I'm seeing.


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## Slippy

Hawg, great job Sir! What a great build. Slippy Approved!


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## hawgrider

Getting some shape to it. I may take a little more off the edges? Its already feeling good in the hand but I think its still a bit chunky.


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## SOCOM42

hawgrider said:


> Getting some shape to it. I may take a little more off the edges? Its already feeling good in the hand but I think its still a bit chunky.


Nice looking job!

Leave it be, after a while you will need to touch up the grain, that will be the time to reduce some of it.


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## Robie

Wow!

Nice job!!


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## Robie




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## hawgrider

SOCOM42 said:


> Nice looking job!
> 
> Leave it be, after a while you will need to touch up the grain, that will be the time to reduce some of it.


 That's not a bad thought maybe I should stop shaping and go right to hand sanding with some 400 grit or higher.



Robie said:


> Wow!
> 
> Nice job!!


 Thanks Robie I'm pleased as punch with how its turing out. This project has been fun and educational!
Once I do some fine grit work I'll oil it up and put the ole workhorse back to work.


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## hawgrider

SOCOM42 said:


> Nice looking job!
> 
> Leave it be, after a while you will need to touch up the grain, that will be the time to reduce some of it.





Robie said:


> View attachment 103415
> 
> 
> View attachment 103417
> 
> 
> View attachment 103419


Great comparison shot wow we brought this thing back from the dead.


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## hawgrider

Did some hand sanding with some 400 grit and hit it with some butcher block mineral oil and I'm calling this done. The color looks fantastic oiled.

Want to thank Robie for the purple heart wood and for slicing them up on his table saw he did a really nice job with the measurements I sent him they were perfect thanks Robie for everything!

And thanks to SOCOM42 , Inor and Mad trapper for the tips and input along the way.


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## RubberDuck

Excellent turn out you might suck in human relations but you can now rehandle a knife

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## hawgrider

RubberDuck said:


> Excellent turn out you might suck in human relations but you can now rehandle a knife
> 
> Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


Truth will set ya free. True :vs_lol:


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## 1skrewsloose

Looks fantastic!! Boning knife like hell, more like a machete!  Didn't get the scale of it till I compared the pic of the handle next to the ruler then the whole thing.
Looks Factory!


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## RubberDuck

He recently learned how to baton logs with it waiting for that video update 

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


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## hawgrider

1skrewsloose said:


> Looks fantastic!! Boning knife like hell, more like a machete!  Didn't get the scale of it till I compared the pic of the handle next to the ruler then the whole thing.
> Looks Factory!


Grandpa did some time butchering cows back in the day. Big cow BIG knife :tango_face_smile:


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## SOCOM42

Hawg, you did a great job on it!:vs_cool::vs_clap:


Should last at least two more lifetimes.

Hey you ought to see the meat cleaver I have from the 30's, huge!

Must weigh 8-10 pounds.


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## hawgrider

SOCOM42 said:


> Hawg, you did a great job on it!:vs_cool::vs_clap:
> 
> Should last at least two more lifetimes.
> 
> Hey you ought to see the meat cleaver I have from the 30's, huge!
> 
> Must weigh 8-10 pounds.


Thanks! Yes would love to see if you get a chance.

Speaking of cleavers that may be the next project.


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## hawgrider

Finally finished the protective sleeve. Played with my new serpentine stamp a bit.


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## Robie

Wow!!!!


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## SOCOM42

Nice job!


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## hawgrider

Thanks fellas. 
Went crazy on the stamping but since I'm a leather novice I figured better practice some.


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## SOCOM42

hawgrider said:


> Thanks! Yes would love to see if you get a chance.
> 
> Speaking of cleavers that may be the next project.


As soon as it warms up enough to go rooting in the shelter I will get them and a few other blades.

Maybe this coming Wednesday, supposed to be in the 50's, has been in the 20's and 30's for a while.


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## hawgrider

SOCOM42 said:


> As soon as it warms up enough to go rooting in the shelter I will get them and a few other blades.
> 
> Maybe this coming Wednesday, supposed to be in the 50's, has been in the 20's and 30's for a while.


Take your time my friend... good things come in good time.


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