# solar experiment



## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

Hello,
When I started out putting in a solar set up I got a lot of good advice from everyone about how to do it right.
And if you post on here about what you are doing and what you are using people are quick to tell you that your 
not doing it right and that's good if you are learning from scratch like I did. 

But now I have learned a little about the basics and I wonder about people that will try and have some solar lights
rigged up after TSHTF? 
I do not condone any type of stealing but in a post SHTF scenario Mad Max kind of world it will be acceptable to use
anything you can get your hands on. solar panel from an expressway sine, house wiring, car battery anything you can scarf.
Even in an EMP if your not at ground zero some free standing solar panels may survive due to the fact that they are not
tied to the grid. That's easy pickens from the free standing solar powered expressway sines. And lots of other sources.
look around there are lots solar panels out there. So I'm wondering how difficult could it be if you only understand the basics
to have lights and a radio or whatever powered by using car batteries? 
Does this sound like a project that some may be interested in? 
Help and advice will be appreciated. Ideas? No hi tech talk just keep it simple and fire up a power source. (******* style)


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## dwight55 (Nov 9, 2012)

I'd be interested also to read the replies.

My plan is to do a small solar grid in a couple years ($$$$ ya know), . . . but would like to know about it just in case, before hand.

May God bless,
Dwight


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## pheniox17 (Dec 12, 2013)

you need a good multimeter, analog would be best and know how to use it

I understand the scenario involving salvaging public works

its very important to know the output and understand by design are not easy to steal, if you can work with basic electrical equations, have a few resistors on hand, and you should be fine (but treat as live high voltage even if no power is "on" or you will be a little toasty) 

good luck (it will be safer, and simpler having your own gear, but for trade and you plan on selvage then good luck)


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

For a long time I drove myself crazy trying figure out how I could buy all the "toys" I wanted. I have only so much money like most of us and being retired has made it worse. I finally gave up on buying a solar power system, too many other necessary things. But I have kept my eyes open around my area for things I'll need. While I have a reasonable amount of water, I've written down the addresses of all the close swimming pools and city water tanks. Same with solar. I've got a house a stone's throw away with what I'm guessing is a 3-4K watt system. Its a lease system and I plan on calling the company, as if interested so i can get more detailed info. I have to assume it is tied directly into the grid because of the extra meter on one its boxes, rather than grid and batteries. Who knows, I might like it and just buy the necessary parts to convert it if SHTF. So, I'd love to hear info.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

First, a car battery is for cranking amps so a poor choice for a solar system. You need deep cycle batteries designed for amp/hours. Small, off grid systems to handle basics like lighting are your best choice to start with. And setting up a 12VDC is the simplist. Plus there are so many small 12VDC appliances available. When you have to use an inverter to invert the 12VDC to 120VAC you have a power loss which can be up to 20%. So just starting with a small solar system to provide some lighting is a great start. LED light strips use very little power. 
You can read all you want but until you DO & get practical knowledge it is all theory.


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## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

HuntingHawk said:


> First, a car battery is for cranking amps so a poor choice for a solar system. You need deep cycle batteries designed for amp/hours. Small, off grid systems to handle basics like lighting are your best choice to start with. And setting up a 12VDC is the simplist. Plus there are so many small 12VDC appliances available. When you have to use an inverter to invert the 12VDC to 120VAC you have a power loss which can be up to 20%. So just starting with a small solar system to provide some lighting is a great start. LED light strips use very little power.
> You can read all you want but until you DO & get practical knowledge it is all theory.


 yes I agree with you about the batteries deep cycle is the only way to go but when TSHTF where you going to buy them at?
I'm talking about working with stuff you could find easily

Example: A solar setup consist of 3 main parts 1 solar panel - 2 a controller - 3 battery to store the energy
number 1 is easy,, solar panel

number 2 is a little tricky, A controller takes the raw electric and sort of converts it to a usable voltage.
would it be possible to use a automotive regulator to make a crude controller?
An automotive alternator can produce lots of voltage and amps but the regulator keeps the electric at 12 volts (up to 14.7) 
so could a automotive regulator take the place of a controller? - I think it is possible-

number 3 A 12 battery,, A good deep cycle battery would be nice but I'm going to use what ever I think I could find in 
pinch when there are no stores to buy what you need-- So I'm going to go with a car battery--

and I have some questions,,,,,, where can I find some LED lights out of a car? Aren't they using them now for tail and stop lights?
next question will a short wave radio run on 12 volts? If not a CB or am - fm will haft to do. 
What I'm trying to do is make a usable solar setup for lights and a radio out of junk if there is no power grid some lights
and a radio would be nice to have. 
And yes you are correct ,,,,,,It is all just a theory until you do it. Why not try? 
Solar power ******* style LOL


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

ebay or amazon & search for 12VDC led lights.


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## Will2 (Mar 20, 2013)

If you don't know how to use solar you will ruin your battery and panel.

Its not hard but knowing how to properly maintain the system is important. Depending on the equipment the situation will vary. Say you have a DMM (Digital multimeter) and also a battery, and a panel and wires. The basic would be not overcharging the battery (batteries normally peak at 13.5v but can be less or potentially more) and also if you battery is full not backcharging the panel and frying it. That is pretty much it. Also don't hook up your panel in direct light.

Caring for solar systems can be more involved though, normally it involces a good charge controller with a dummyload resistor attached to handle suprlus productoin. The rule is 1/20 meaning your panels should be no more than 1/20th the size of your battery capacity.


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## nephilim (Jan 20, 2014)

I have a 1kW panel. Cost me £1500. It gathers enough energy to run the fridge, the cooker and the washing machine without being overly painful in electric consumption. The 1 panel generates around 900kWh per year. We have B or better energy rating domestic appliances, and below is a break down of their appliance energy consumptions.

A++ Rated Fridge/freezer - 211kWh per year
A Rated Cooker (oven, 4 hobs, grill) - 512kWh per year
B Rated washing machine - 118kWh per year

This saves us around £10 a month. It may not sound like much, but if you consider this powers the vital stuff to keep food well kept and cooking food. May well look at getting another one when finances can spare it.

Also if we get an A++ rated cooker and washing machine, it will go up to around £15 a month savings all told. It doesn't sound like much I grant you, but this is £180 a year, and we can survive without mainstream power. We also use it to charge our phones so we can keep communications up with the outside world.


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## nephilim (Jan 20, 2014)

If I remember this weekend I will take pictures of the full set up. From the panel to the controller to the batteries where the electric is contained. 

In a power outage we lasted 2 days on full juice usages (like nothing had happened) whereas neighbours were reduced to barbecuing their frozen goods etc.

Solar is definitely a good idea and worth the investment especially when you consider that it's investment means you can eventually come off the grid (the sooner the better IMO...but would need 5 more panels to be fully off the grid for power)


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

I put together a portable setup that will work on solar after seeing a product one company was making where they housed a battery pack within a Pelican case.
I took it a little more "tacticool", and made mine using a large ammo can. The can houses a 10amp charge controller, a 27AH 12v battery, a 750w inverter, a digital charging voltage indicator, an analog ammeter and voltmeter, two 120v outlets, one 12v cig lighter outlet, one 4 port USB hub, a switch to allow current to flow to the inverter, and a switch that allows current to flow to the charger from a connected charging source.
The system will accept any panel which runs less than 10amps and connects using two screw down battery posts.

This gives me a handy way to keep power with me at all times.
I have five 12v LED light bulbs that can be hooked up to the system and run throughout the home to important rooms, or when away from the house as well.
It can charge electronics using either the 120v outlets, or the 5v USB ports.
It can be charged on any <=10amp panel, or on a 12v trickle charger wall wart or car charger.

I got a great deal on small portable solar panels. One 70w and one 35w. Both work well with this set up.


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## BullseyePrecision (Jun 10, 2014)

Kauboy said:


> I put together a portable setup that will work on solar after seeing a product one company was making where they housed a battery pack within a Pelican case.
> I took it a little more "tacticool", and made mine using a large ammo can. The can houses a 10amp charge controller, a 27AH 12v battery, a 750w inverter, a digital charging voltage indicator, an analog ammeter and voltmeter, two 120v outlets, one 12v cig lighter outlet, one 4 port USB hub, a switch to allow current to flow to the inverter, and a switch that allows current to flow to the charger from a connected charging source.
> The system will accept any panel which runs less than 10amps and connects using two screw down battery posts.
> 
> ...


Pictures?


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

Sure thing. Let me get a few shots and I'll post them later this evening.

EDIT:
Pics added!

Apparently my memory is more fuzzy than I realize. My charge controller is only 7amp, and the battery is 26AH, not 27.(no biggie)

Here's the ammo can, painted up with shock absorbing "bed liner" paint to give texture and reduce the KLANG! sounds.









With the top off:








The unit basically flows right to left.
The red and black posts came off of a dead inverter. There is a 7amp circuit breaker switch wired inline.
The red switch allows power from the positive post to the rest of the unit, so I can hook it up in full sun and not short anything.
Current passes to the circuit breaker, then to the charge controller unit in the middle. The digital readout is hooked in parallel to the posts, so I can always see my source voltage before flipping the switch, just in case.
The fan is wired in there too to vent the device during use.
The green switch supplies power to the internal inverter, which then powers the outlets. The needle gauges are set up to provide realtime readouts of use.
I can see the battery voltage with the top one, and the current draw on the bottom one.
The inverter actually has a single USB port, which I just hooked a hub into. The hub has a switch so as not to draw power if I don't want it to.
The 12v power outlet is wired directly to the posts on the inverter, so it gets added into the amp draw too.

Hooked up to smaller panel:








You can see the copper eye brackets that I added to the panel's wires in order to use them on the screw down posts.
The reading from this panel is tough to read in the sun and at that bad angle, but it said 13.9.
Notice no yellow light on the charge controller's lower LED, and the red switch is not lit up either.

Red switch thrown!








Now we're cookin'.
Indirect sunlight gave me 12.3 total volts after current was allowed to pass to the controller.

Green switch thrown!








Notice the green switch is lit now, and the needles have moved.
The battery is sitting right at 12v, and the inverter is drawing less than 1amp.
The 120v outlets looked quite shocked by the ordeal. 

Both panels hooked up in parallel:









Battery:








Non-spillable, so I could side mount it with no worries.

Inverter:









I tell you what, it is a very tight fit in there.
I didn't realize all the wiring I'd have to do, and how low the gauges and switches would protrude out the bottom of the painted plexi they are mounted to.
My next version will use one of those much taller cans. The extra room will allow for a larger battery and inverter, as well as an internal support frame to mount them to for easy removal.

All wrapped up in an airtight package.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

Updated with pics!

The first real test of this unit was when I took it to the beach to run my 12v cooler.
Everything stayed perfectly cold all day.
SUCCESS!


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

I've 520 watts of solar panels. 30amp contoller. Three 125AH 12V batteries. 2000watt inveter. Main thing it powers is a 5cuft chest freezer. Been running fine for over two years. Once a month I adjust the angle of the panels & check battery water level. Maintenance time 10-15 minutes.


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## BullseyePrecision (Jun 10, 2014)

Kauboy said:


> Updated with pics!
> 
> The first real test of this unit was when I took it to the beach to run my 12v cooler.
> Everything stayed perfectly cold all day.
> SUCCESS!


That's awesome thanks for the pics.


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## pheniox17 (Dec 12, 2013)

Kauboy said:


> Updated with pics!
> 
> The first real test of this unit was when I took it to the beach to run my 12v cooler.
> Everything stayed perfectly cold all day.
> SUCCESS!


that's a VERY WELL MADE little unit

my only concerns in design is placement of "extras"

I personally would add what's called a marine plug on the outside of the case, (or inside near the USB plugs) as a simple plug in for your lights, small camping fridge or anything else that floats your boat

edit: I notice all the extra plugs after I wrote this, would remove all 240/110 plugs due to size of bat but still like it

but if we were in high school that's a A job, clean, professional, well made, I wanna make one now


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## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

Will said:


> If you don't know how to use solar you will ruin your battery and panel.
> 
> Its not hard but knowing how to properly maintain the system is important. Depending on the equipment the situation will vary. Say you have a DMM (Digital multimeter) and also a battery, and a panel and wires. The basic would be not overcharging the battery (batteries normally peak at 13.5v but can be less or potentially more) and also if you battery is full not backcharging the panel and frying it. That is pretty much it. Also don't hook up your panel in direct light.
> 
> Caring for solar systems can be more involved though, normally it involces a good charge controller with a dummyload resistor attached to handle suprlus productoin. The rule is 1/20 meaning your panels should be no more than 1/20th the size of your battery capacity.


 A dummyload resistor with solar panels? 
I have seen dumps when using wind power but never on a solar system. Are you sure?
I don't have a dump load on my existing set up that I have now and when the batteries are full the 
controller just sort of shuts down the charging system and everything sits there idling.
I have a small system that runs my lights, TV, computer and stuff like that. I'm running on it right now. 
It's been running all that stuff for about a year now and so far it's been trouble free other than topping 
off the batteries once a month. When the sun is shinning the batteries stay full while I'm running my lights
and stuff.


These panels have fully adjustable angels for different times of the year to point at the sun 

And they will fold all the way under the tin roof for protection from bad weather.


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## BullseyePrecision (Jun 10, 2014)

All you need is a blocking diode directly after the panels and no voltage can get back to them.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

pheniox17 said:


> that's a VERY WELL MADE little unit
> 
> my only concerns in design is placement of "extras"
> 
> ...


I'm always looking for ideas to improve it.
Can you send me a link/pic of a "marine plug"? The round one on the left is a 12v DC plug. Is that similar?
I would not want to compromise the integrity of the can itself, as it is a gasket sealed, water tight container, but swapping out some existing component to increase functionality might work out fine.


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## pheniox17 (Dec 12, 2013)

looks almost like this one

https://www.12volt.com.au/General Htmls/webcat2003/plugmar.gif

except its marine grade, and has a screw on cover to protect the pins

its designed for use on boats and 4wd, so you can place it externally on the box and maintain its waterproof ability (if that was a option or need??)

I'm still surprised at the quality of your build mate

oh this is another version, except the multi pin version is on the pic

http://www.austboating.com.au/products/electrical/cig-lighters-and-sockets/elec-2-pin-plug-only-cpb


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

I've not seen this type of plug.
I'll look into it, and see if it would prove useful.
Thanks for the suggestion, and the compliment.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Wouldn't work where I live as everything would shut down from over heating.


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## pheniox17 (Dec 12, 2013)

its semi unique that plug, I personally seen it used on a 12v fridge on a 4x4 and a work light, for your application, something simple for home lighting, or a quick plug thats got a high quality/designed for a beating... even with low light led "Xmas" lights for floor guides, its up to your imagination


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## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

Yes this guy built a really cool project


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## Deebo (Oct 27, 2012)

Freaking awesome. Also, our very own Leon has some designs on similar projects on Youtube. Same principle, same awesomeness. 
Montana Rancher is usually very helpfull on solar posts, but I havent seen as much of him lately.


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## Deebo (Oct 27, 2012)

here is a quick video, one of many of Leons. You guys are All awesome.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

It all depends on where you live and the angle of your panels. On the "cabin" we have panels. At 60 degrees you might expect that they would clean themselves - nope! you have to clean them. In a dusty environment like where I live they need to be cleaned at least weekly. A good hosing down and then some glass cleaner and a brush followed by a good rinse. You can lose about 20% of the output with a weeks worth of dust on them.


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