# anyone using their truck for BOV?



## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

Who is using their truck for a BOV? and are there any cheap free mods you have done to make it more of an ultimate BOV?

I am using my 2011 Tacoma 4.0L 6speed manual.

Some of my cheap mods so far are my Browning tactical seat covers which have tons of storage pockets and a concealed carry pocket on the driver side.

Also did a cheap $20 mod to my rear diff breather valve, I relocated the breather valve to my fuel door compartment using 6' of 1/4" fuel line and a new $10 breather valve from Toyota. this will prevent my diff from taking in water if the hot diff goes into vacuum from rapid cooling while fording a river or stream.
Parts: 6' 1/4" fuel line, two small hose clamps, breather union (vehicle specific) Camary union (vehicle specific) teflon tape, zip ties for mounting fuel line.....6 pack of beer and tin of your favorite skoal optional!
remove breather valve from diff, screw in new Camary union into diff (use teflon tape), press fuel line onto Camary union, secure with hose clamp. Run fuel line up through the wheel well and inside body of truck, and up to the fuel compartment. Drill small hole for breather valve, put breather valve into drilled hole, press fuel line onto breather valve and secure with hose clamp. now secure fuel line onto any channel and secure with zip ties. approx install, 1 beer 

Also redirecting my air intake to the cowelling under my windshield as a cheap alternative to a snokel using 12" of 4" intake hose and drilling a 4" hole through the upper part of my fire wall to run my intake hose into the Cowelling. another cheap mod that cost only $40
parts: 12" of 4" aluminium intake tube, 4" 90degree silicone elbow, 3 hose clamps, and a 4" Fernco fitting to run through the upper fire wall into the cowelling. 
Install is as easy as removing old intake hose, install silicone elbow on air box turning the elbow towards fire wall secure with hose clamp, install aluminium pipe on elbow, secure with hose clamp, Drill 4" hole into upper fire wall going into the cowelling using 4" hole saw, insert Fernco into 4" hole, run aluminum intake tubing into Fernco and into cowelling and secure with last hose clamp. Done approx install, 2.5 beers 
these mods work on most newer vehicles, might take some red neck engineering for older vehicles!

These are my two main mods for river crossings and keeping important parts dry! 
What are some of the things you have done?




















Ghost river, Post flooding of 2013!


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

When I lived in Douglas, Wy., I had a 68 chev with 20 gal behind the seat tank and 30 gal tank in the bed.I bought the truck with that setup. Looking to do something similar with my 88 chev 4x4. If you go off road in 4x4 you tend to use alot of fuel. With that idea, something to scavenge fuel from disabled vehicles. Folks out there know they might get stranded for a day or two. My truck even came with spam and beans in a box in the back! This was 1978. They had gates to put accross the interstate to prevent traffic. Wish I had never left.


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

working on my fuel jerry rack for the swing out rear tire rack, Have to wait till I have the cash to buy some steel and start the welding at work


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## Chipper (Dec 22, 2012)

Most use an older rig in case of an EMP or just cause they can easily repair them alongside of the road. I would NOT bet my life on anything newer then a 90-92. What good is fancy modern rig when the dealer is closed for repairs and you can't pull up and buy "clean" fuel. 

I have 2, a 89 and a 92 F-250 HD 4x4 non turbo diesels with a 5 speed. Will run on just about any oil based fluid, deluded engine oil and trans fluid, transformer oil, home heating oil and diesel etc. Just think every dead car or truck along the road will give you a gallon or two of trans fluid to help you along the way. No computer controlled anything, PERIOD. Should be able to roll it down a hill and start it if necessary with dead batteries. All mechanical fuel system. These trucks are everywhere so parts shouldn't be a problem, not that you will need them. 

Just giving you something else to think about. Not trying to ruin your day or post.


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## Beach Kowboy (Feb 13, 2014)

We have a few we would use. Our first choice is out 09 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.






If something like an emp happened it would be my 72 cj 5 with 304 v8 with a 3 speed. It is on 33 in Toyo MT's and will pull stumps out of the ground. Can't carry quite as much but will get us to our destination. We are lucky as we are already in our BOL. If something happens where we have to leave this place. Something is very very bad!!


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## Montana Rancher (Mar 4, 2013)

I just got back from a family funeral in Seattle, I drove 70 mph on the interstate and got 21 mpg with my 2003 Dodge 3/4 ton diesel pickup.

The slower I drove the more mileage I got but 70 seemed to be a good balance between mileage and time.

My 2003 has 160k on it so it is a really just broke in.


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

Chipper said:


> Most use an older rig in case of an EMP or just cause they can easily repair them alongside of the road. I would NOT bet my life on anything newer then a 90-92. What good is fancy modern rig when the dealer is closed for repairs and you can't pull up and buy "clean" fuel.
> 
> I have 2, a 89 and a 92 F-250 HD 4x4 non turbo diesels with a 5 speed. Will run on just about any oil based fluid, deluded engine oil and trans fluid, transformer oil, home heating oil and diesel etc. Just think every dead car or truck along the road will give you a gallon or two of trans fluid to help you along the way. No computer controlled anything, PERIOD. Should be able to roll it down a hill and start it if necessary with dead batteries. All mechanical fuel system. These trucks are everywhere so parts shouldn't be a problem, not that you will need them.
> 
> Just giving you something else to think about. Not trying to ruin your day or post.


shouldn't be too hard to hot wire some one elses rig! ::clapping::


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

Beach Kowboy said:


> We have a few we would use. Our first choice is out 09 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited.
> View attachment 4662
> If something like an emp happened it would be my 72 cj 5 with 304 v8 with a 3 speed. It is on 33 in Toyo MT's and will pull stumps out of the ground. Can't carry quite as much but will get us to our destination. We are lucky as we are already in our BOL. If something happens where we have to leave this place. Something is very very bad!!


Nice choice of rubber, I'm rollin on the Toyo M55's! Still not sure what to think about the EMP on vehicles! when I see scientific proof I may start to worry, when that time comes I'm sure there will be a few vehicles kickin around that would be fair game!


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

Montana Rancher said:


> I just got back from a family funeral in Seattle, I drove 70 mph on the interstate and got 21 mpg with my 2003 Dodge 3/4 ton diesel pickup.
> 
> The slower I drove the more mileage I got but 70 seemed to be a good balance between mileage and time.
> 
> My 2003 has 160k on it so it is a really just broke in.


I love the Cummins, but hate the dodge, My ultimate North American rig would be a ford super duty with a Cummins and Chevy drive train!

But I lost all faith in the Big 4 after they cried for a bail out, ever since then I stuck with Toyota! had a Jetta TDI once and an Audi A4, good cars, but wouldn't last 5 minutes during a crisis!


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

I am not Saying an Emp CAN or CAN'T knock out a vehicles ECM, but I have thoroughly read mixed write up's! It seems no one really knows the answer, it's all speculation coming from both sides! I also live well over 100km from both major cities in Alberta, so I'm really not that concerned and willing to take that chance. Having two vehicles already for the wife and I, it's hard to justify the insurance for and or registration for a third vehicle, I would love to drive an older model Toyota with out the electronics, but I put 120km on my truck every day, so I need something reliable and half ass economical!

So back to BOV Mod's, what else are you guys doing to get across the rough terrain to your BOL of choice!


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Maybe one day I'll get my Dodge RAM Power Wagon. Until that day comes, Jeep JK Rubicon and Ford F150 4x4 will have to do.
2014 Ram 2500 Power Wagon - Specifications, Pictures, Prices


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

Slippy said:


> Maybe one day I'll get my Dodge RAM Power Wagon. Until that day comes, Jeep JK Rubicon and Ford F150 4x4 will have to do.
> 2014 Ram 2500 Power Wagon - Specifications, Pictures, Prices


Titan is getting a V8 cummins next year! I'm waiting for the tundra to get it's diesel!


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## Beach Kowboy (Feb 13, 2014)

jro1 said:


> Nice choice of rubber, I'm rollin on the Toyo M55's! Still not sure what to think about the EMP on vehicles! when I see scientific proof I may start to worry, when that time comes I'm sure there will be a few vehicles kickin around that would be fair game!


The Toyo's are the best tires I have ever had. And I have had a bunch, Mickey Thompson,Swampers and several others. The last pair of Toyo's I had onthe Jeep I had almost 90k miles and they still had 25% tread or so when I got my new ones. I travel onthe highway quite a bit and just felt safe getting a new pair. Plus, they were free so it was a no brainer.. They take me everywhere I want to go and they drive very smooth with not too much noise. As for the Jeep, they are my favorite and we are lookin at maybe gettin another 4 door like the one in the pic but either with a Hemi v8 or a diesel. I am still tryin to figure out which.. They both have their pros and cons, it's just a matter of what I want it for. We'll see..


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

Beach Kowboy said:


> The Toyo's are the best tires I have ever had. And I have had a bunch, Mickey Thompson,Swampers and several others. The last pair of Toyo's I had onthe Jeep I had almost 90k miles and they still had 25% tread or so when I got my new ones. I travel onthe highway quite a bit and just felt safe getting a new pair. Plus, they were free so it was a no brainer.. They take me everywhere I want to go and they drive very smooth with not too much noise. As for the Jeep, they are my favorite and we are lookin at maybe gettin another 4 door like the one in the pic but either with a Hemi v8 or a diesel. I am still tryin to figure out which.. They both have their pros and cons, it's just a matter of what I want it for. We'll see..


Look into the I4 diesel for your jeep!


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## bad (Feb 22, 2014)

I have Toyo all terrain tires on my 2wd econoline. Glad that I have them. Run snow tires on my other 2 diesel cars. All have the treads on all 4 wheels.


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

bad said:


> I have Toyo all terrain tires on my 2wd econoline. Glad that I have them. Run snow tires on my other 2 diesel cars. All have the treads on all 4 wheels.


Toyo also has a sister company, Nitto, The new M55's are the Nitto HD Grapplers, sick tires, but out of my price range at the moment, I have to outfit my Tacoma and the wife's Rav4 this spring. we just bought new Nokian Hakkapelitta R2's this past winter and had to scrap the old summer tires, so i really don't want her to run the winters all summer long, And now finally my M55's are showing their age, I am looking at the Goodyear Wrangler Durratraks or the Kelly safari's, the kelly's are made by goodyear on the durratrak platform. I have run the Durratraks on my '91 hilux before we sold it, those are amazing tires in the mud and in the snow, they aren't as reliable as the M55's but still a great tire for the price!


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## bad (Feb 22, 2014)

I run the same tires all the time. In summer they wear faster but they work well on our gravel/clay road, when the rains come. We are 3-4 miles from any pavement. If I could get the Toyos in the 13 and 14" sizes needed I would run them on my sedans. 

Our other two cars are pre computer German with generous ground clearance. If the truth be told we won't be going anyplace regular if the shithtf. Once the tires wear down or something major happens with them we will rely on horse power


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

tires won't be hard to come by post SHTF, there will be highways with abandoned vehicles stretched as far as the eye can see! :lol:


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

Hi-lift jack or winch would be handy. Got a flyer in the mail from harbour freight, $269 for I think a 8K winch, has to be junk don't ya think?


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## bad (Feb 22, 2014)

How do you know that they are permanently abandoned and not just out of gas or parked for some reason. If you see a car along the road in front of my property, is that abandoned? It might be thought of as an act of aggression and rewarded with a bullet center mass. Better be careful at what you liberate. Just saying.

Might be better to stay at home and protect your stash.


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

1skrewsloose said:


> Hi-lift jack or winch would be handy. Got a flyer in the mail from harbour freight, $269 for I think a 8K winch, has to be junk don't ya think?


I would stay away from cheaper winches, I heard bad stories. 8k winch should run you $450-500.


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

jro1 said:


> tires won't be hard to come by post SHTF, there will be highways with abandoned vehicles stretched as far as the eye can see! :lol:


I agree!!! Brings up the problem of patching and inflating tires with no power. I have seen, but never used, the "spray lighter fluid inside the rim and light to expand the bead" Something as minor as a flat can be a bummer.


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

bad said:


> How do you know that they are permanently abandoned and not just out of gas or parked for some reason. If you see a car along the road in front of my property, is that abandoned? It might be thought of as an act of aggression and rewarded with a bullet center mass. Better be careful at what you liberate. Just saying.
> 
> Might be better to stay at home and protect your stash.


We will see how people really act when the time comes and getting to your family is a spare tire away!
I don't recall mentioning "Borrowing" a tire from a car parked in someones drive way?!
The highways after some time will be "Fair Game" for anyone" If I needed a tire or two to get me home to my family, you bet your ass I wouldn't think twice about swapping out a tire, people say what they want now while life is good, but when faced with the uncertainty of your families well being because you blew a tire, and there are hundreds of abandoned vehicles, your saying you wouldn't take that chance?


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

Under the assumtion there is no power to re-fuel, said occupants may be scrounging for fuel. A tap on the gastank will tell if they're up to no good or ran out of gas. In any event under these circumstances, not many, but the stupid, will approach a house and beg for gas, lest they be shot. jmho. Just as an aside, I repalced the donut spare tires in my vehicles with full size spares. Takes up more room in the trunk, but we don't generally haul that much anyway. Just for my peace of mind, seen folks whipping down the road on those donuts for hours at speed,, my life is worth more.


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## jimb1972 (Nov 12, 2012)

Chipper said:


> Most use an older rig in case of an EMP or just cause they can easily repair them alongside of the road. I would NOT bet my life on anything newer then a 90-92. What good is fancy modern rig when the dealer is closed for repairs and you can't pull up and buy "clean" fuel.
> 
> I have 2, a 89 and a 92 F-250 HD 4x4 non turbo diesels with a 5 speed. Will run on just about any oil based fluid, deluded engine oil and trans fluid, transformer oil, home heating oil and diesel etc. Just think every dead car or truck along the road will give you a gallon or two of trans fluid to help you along the way. No computer controlled anything, PERIOD. Should be able to roll it down a hill and start it if necessary with dead batteries. All mechanical fuel system. These trucks are everywhere so parts shouldn't be a problem, not that you will need them.
> 
> Just giving you something else to think about. Not trying to ruin your day or post.


I have an 83 3/4ton Chevy with a 6.2 diesel and an 82 Blazer with the same motor.


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

Could you imagine going on the hunt to round up enough diesel for this bad boy?


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## jimb1972 (Nov 12, 2012)

1skrewsloose said:


> I agree!!! Brings up the problem of patching and inflating tires with no power. I have seen, but never used, the "spray lighter fluid inside the rim and light to expand the bead" Something as minor as a flat can be a bummer.


I have done it, you use a very light shot of ether (starting fluid) I do not recommend it under anything but the most dire circumstances, If you ask yourself is that too much ether, it is. I have a compressor with enough volume to do it now.


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

ARB makes a really nice engine compartment air compressor but it's also $500. You can get cheaper compressors from Wally World and like stores for under $100. I know guys who have the cheaper $30 compressors but wait 25-30 minutes to air up one tire! Time is precious, so waiting that long for a tire to air up could have devastating consequences!


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## jimb1972 (Nov 12, 2012)

jro1 said:


> ARB makes a really nice engine compartment air compressor but it's also $500. You can get cheaper compressors from Wally World and like stores for under $100. I know guys who have the cheaper $30 compressors but wait 25-30 minutes to air up one tire! Time is precious, so waiting that long for a tire to air up could have devastating consequences!


People used to modify their AC compressors to fill tires, don't remember exactly what was involved but you will never have enough volume to seat the bead unless you get lucky.


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

jimb1972 said:


> People used to modify their AC compressors to fill tires, don't remember exactly what was involved but you will never have enough volume to seat the bead unless you get lucky.

















Belt Driven Air Compressor a.k.a. Unlimited On-Board Air
Well, after much searching and more searching on top of that, I can't find anyone anywhere who has installed a belt driven air compressor in a 2nd gen taco. However, I have found a dozen or so threads on TW and other forums of people looking for information on running an unlimited on board air set up. So, I figured I'd be a guinea pig and see what it would take and make the leap. My goal was to spend no more than $100 and have an on board air set-up that my current 12volt system couldn't even come close to keeping up with. I will admit that I will be reusing air fittings, parts, and hoses from my previous air system to keep the cost down.

For those wondering what the hell I'm talking about, the idea is to take an old a/c compressor and convert it to compress just air rather than refrigerants (R12, R134a, etc.). Jeeps and old FJs have been running em for years. They allow for an unlimited air supply (as long as the engine is running) at a high enough cfm output to air up a 35" inch tire from 0-30psi in a fraction of the time it takes a 12volt compressor, easily run air tools, and with the right equipment they can even reseat tires. One of the features I really like is that they're quiet. You don't even know it's running unless you hear the clutch engage and that is only a single 'click' sound - just like your current A/C does when it turns on. This means that I can now air up without hearing the sound of a small, pissed off generator!

There are two different types of a/c compressors out there that people are using for this and both have pros and cons. You can use a York or a Sanden-type compressor. The York is preferred as it has an internal oil sump and reservoir so it's all self-contained, but the down side is that it is HUGE. I would have loved to fit this under the hood, but there's no way in my opinion unless you're running a 3-inch body lift and get really creative by moving things around in the engine bay. I chose to go the route of a Sanden compressor (model SD7H15 to be exact). The reason is that it is more compact. It has a slightly lower cfm output, but not by much. For reference, I pulled my compressor from a 1994 Dodge Dakota at the local self-service salvage yard (V8 motor). There are definitely newer vehicles out there with Sandens in them, but this particular one already had a clutch on it designed to work with a 7-rib serpentine belt which is what the taco has. You can find out what model vehicles came with Sanden compressors at Untitled Document.

The problem with the Sanden is that it is designed to compress refrigerants and not just air. Refrigerants have lube in them and as the compressor compresses them, they lube the compressor. Without the refrigerant, you have nothing to lubricate the compressor's pistons. There are two methods to overcome this. You can use an oiler on the air intake and a coalescing filter on the discharge to capture the oil and recirculate it. Or, convert it to run on grease. I chose the grease method to cut down on the number of parts necessary and to simplify things under the hood as space is prime real estate under there. I used the instructions found in a Jeep magazine (JP Magazine) to convert the compressor. They did a really good write-up. So, here's the compressor converted and all ready togo. I installed a zerk fitting so I can easily add grease when necessary.

Then came the fun part - installing it! This process took a lot of patience. I lost count how many times I crawled underneath the truck to put the compressor in just to take it right back out. I'll just post pics of what I did in general. If there are specific questions regarding process or parts used, feel free to throw them out there:

1 - Built bracket and relocated transmission fluid lines down a couple inches to provide the space necessary. I made the bracket out of aluminum that I had on hand in the garage.
2 - Trimmed front edge of engine mounting bracket. This was the only step that I was hesitant to do. However, I had a mechanical engineer friend take a look at what I was going to do for reassurance that I wasn't going to be running into trouble later on. He assured me there is still plenty of material on the engine mount for it to retain strength and integrity (it's a ¼" plate steel bracket). If you don't want to do this step, then you just need to find a shorter compressor model. I needed 7 ¾" of clearance front to back and I only had about 7 ½" so this was the only option that I could see fit. Open for other suggestions for any future installers.
3 - Fabricated brackets to attach compressor to engine block. The main bracket mounts to the engine block via the front motor mount bolt. Then there are three other smaller brackets as well. One of the brackets, though, is more like a spacer than anything else. There's only about a 3/16" gap between the compressor pulley and the power steering pump pulley above it. I attached the spacer-like bracket to the bottom of the power steering pump and the top of the compressor to ensure that the compressor pulley doesn't get pulled up into the power steering pulley. Over-built? Maybe. But that sucker isn't going anywhere and it's solid.
Little Brackets Installed:
4 - Built manifold to connect suction and discharge air lines to compressor. You can kinda see it in the first pic of the compressor.
(Note: This ended up being a waste of time with the compressor I have. The factory fitting was a compression fitting. So, I built a new compression fitting to attach the air lines. It leaked at around 60psi. I rebuilt it and it leaked at 80psi. Absolutely frustrated with the project, I went to the last thing I could think of. I simply used JB Weld to permanently attach a female-female NPT fitting on the discharge port of the compressor. It seems to hold just fine and is air tight.)
6 - Fitted with new belt. After the compressor was in place, I measured the additional length needed to get a belt around it. I used a 92.75" belt intended to be used on a 01-04 VW Touareg with the V8 engine. It just barely fit on there. I will probably try to find a belt an inch or two longer when I have to replace it in a couple years.
7 - Ran air lines and electrical using parts that I already had. I'm currently only running a ½ gallon air tank. I used it with the 12volt compressor to just allow it to prime a bit before airing up tires. The future rear bumper will become the next air tank when it's made. I'm guessing it'll be around 4-5ish gallons in capacity.
8 -Tested. Here's a quick video of the air up time from 15-30 psi on a 315/75/17 tire. One thing to note, the engine is only running at about 750 rpms during this video. If the throttle were to be held at 1500 rpms, then the air up time would be cut in half, in theory, since the compressor would be running at twice the speed it is in the video.




All in all, it was a lot of work, but so worth it to me. It took about 50 hours total to do it all and that includes the trip to the junkyard, converting the compressor, fabbing the brackets, replacing the pulley bearing, travel times to parts stores, etc. If I were to do it again with what I know now, it would probably only take about 18-20 hours. I completely installed and removed the compressor 5 times during the testing phase in order to tweak things just right which took a major amount of time.

My 12volt compressor always hit the duty cycle limit (@about 30 minutes) when airing up, which was well before my tires were back up to highway driving pressure. I also like the fact that I can run air tools if necessary. I will say that there are some really sweet 12 volt compressors out there that can run air tools and air up tires quick, but they are really pricey (up to $500 easily!). This only cost me about $123 as I already had some of the parts on hand. Even with the cost of my time, it was still worth it as I really enjoy projects like this.

Things learned:

Find a compressor with threaded fittings if at all possible. Make sure they point up like mine do. If they point straight back, you'll run out of room. They make threaded adapters to go from refrigerant hoses to NPT.

 If you turn your wheels all the way to passenger side, there is enough room to sit in the wheel well to work on the project. However, this will vary with lift/tire combo's and person's height.

JB Weld is stronger than I thought.

Go ahead and replace the pulley bearing before installing it all in the truck. Not an expensive part, but it should be assumed bad coming from a nearly 20 year old donor vehicle. The last thing you want after all that work is to hear a screaming bearing. Trust me.

Small hands come in handy as the workspace is pretty small.

Let the engine completely cool before installing compressor. Dumb, I know, but I got impatient one day after work and learned that lesson again.

The whole "measure twice, cut once"mentality goes a long way with this project. If I had spent more time brainstorming as the project progressed, I could have saved boatloads of time.That and a few less beers.

Parts Purchased:

Compressor - 48 (Scrap yard - includes $8 core charge)
Belt - 34 (Napa)
Grease - 8 (Napa)
Check valve - 8 (Summit Racing)
Pulley Bearing - 19 (Whistler Bearing & Races)
JB Weld - 6 (Napa)
Total: $123

If you don't already have these parts, this system would also need:

Hoses
Fittings - blow off valve, bleeder valve, etc.
Tank - not really an option with this setup as you can wear out the clutch super-fast if it's always turning on/off rapidly.
Electrical stuff - pressure switch/fuse/wire


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## Montana Rancher (Mar 4, 2013)

jro1 said:


> Who is using their truck for a BOV? and are there any cheap free mods you have done to make it more of an ultimate BOV?
> 
> I am using my 2011 Tacoma 4.0L 6speed manual.
> 
> ...


I guess I am old, well I just turned 53 so it is pretty obvious

I just took my mother to a cousins funeral in the Seattle area which is about 500 miles from my house, We took my 2003 Dodge Cummins diesel 3/4 ton pickup on the trip

I like to drive around 67mph as I know that is the sweet spot for the engine, the entire trip I averaged 21 mpg.

This is the 2003 Cummins engine with 305 HP, I know the later engines have a lot more HP but they sacrificed mileage for that.]

The dry weight is about 7000 lbs


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## bad (Feb 22, 2014)

Might it be better to be a prepper and have a plan that doesn't involve theft. Be prepared "before" the shithtf.

Suppose on your way to pick up your family, you see an apple orchard along the road. Would it be ok to just take the apples, because you are hungry.

My point being just because you call it "fair game" doesn't mean that it is fair or a game. A car along the road is owned by someone who may have the same goal as you. They had to leave their vehicle for what ever reason which doesn't mean that it is free for your use. It is theft.

I think your point made on this issue points that here are at at least two sub groups of people, who both identify themselves as preppers, but in reality are quite different.



jro1 said:


> We will see how people really act when the time comes and getting to your family is a spare tire away!
> I don't recall mentioning "Borrowing" a tire from a car parked in someones drive way?!
> The highways after some time will be "Fair Game" for anyone" If I needed a tire or two to get me home to my family, you bet your ass I wouldn't think twice about swapping out a tire, people say what they want now while life is good, but when faced with the uncertainty of your families well being because you blew a tire, and there are hundreds of abandoned vehicles, your saying you wouldn't take that chance?


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## jro1 (Mar 3, 2014)

bad said:


> Might it be better to be a prepper and have a plan that doesn't involve theft. Be prepared "before" the shithtf.
> 
> Suppose on your way to pick up your family, you see an apple orchard along the road. Would it be ok to just take the apples, because you are hungry.
> 
> ...


Fair enough! good points for sure, I think people will be much different when those hard times come, sometimes I say things for a reaction, I'm just trying to feel you guys out! But yes i do try and prepp as much as I can, It's hard to tell how we will react in times, specially when your family and kids are involved. Not something I like to dwell on, When the dust on a windshield of a car on the highway shows several weeks of age, I think it would be okay to "Borrow" something of use! I wouldn't exactly walk onto your property for an apple, not worth the head ache due to a 12 gauge blast to the face, But it would cross my mind to barter some items for a crisp apple for one of the kids!


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## Grim Reality (Mar 19, 2014)

How feasible would it be to get a scuba tank full of air and use that for filling repaired flat tires? You would only 
need to find one part, that being the adapter to change a scuba regulator to put air into the schrader valve. Since 
a scuba is filled with over 2,000 psi (3,000 for some tanks) you wouldn't have ANY trouble setting a tire bead. Just 
thinking out loud.

Al


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## James m (Mar 11, 2014)

I have a Chevy s-10 four door.
It blows compared to my last vehicle which was a jeep.


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## Beach Kowboy (Feb 13, 2014)

James m said:


> I have a Chevy s-10 four door.
> It blows compared to my last vehicle which was a jeep.









Gotta love Jeep.. Someone said to me the other day "I see you went mudding?". I said "Nope, just went to check the mail." Which was true..


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## James m (Mar 11, 2014)

You might laugh but my last jeep was a liberty. But it was the limited edition with the leather and speed rated tires for a bit then it was back to deep snow tires. The engine blew.
I just had to take some rice rocket once....
It even sounded like he shot nitrous but it didn't help him much.
115 mph was it. There was an od off switch on the shift lever to turn off the overdrive and for trailer towing.


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## Coppertop (Dec 20, 2013)

Just picked up a 75 Jeep Pioneer pickup. Mostly to save the f-350 diesel on short trips. It has a Chevy 350 in it, carb and cooling need a little tuning but it was a pretty good price. It is very clean for a "ranch" pickup. Once I get the engine straightened out it should be a good little runner and with no computers.... 

It may be more of a project than I needed at this time, but I always wanted one and everything has fallen into place so far.

Beach Kowboy--- Isn't checking the mail/cows/water the same thing as mudding in this part of the world? I never understood the guys who travel hours to go to a man made mud pit in an arena to drive 200 yards when we just go out the front gate.


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## jeff70 (Jan 29, 2014)

My 90 Bronco will likely be our vehicle of choice, I cut down a set of semi tire chains to fit and keep them in the vehicle at all times, I have no doubt I can get where I need to go, Also have a couple cans of starting fluid in the tool box for beading tires, (I have used this method for years) I have been tossing around the Idea of putting a 4 cylinder cummins in place of the 351w in it now.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

When it goes back together, my truck will be my post shtf vehicle. Right now, it's just a frame. But I've put bigger brakes, heavier duty springs and shocks, new motor, new clutch, etc. should be bullet proof so to speak. Oh and putting a new floor pan in and the right trans hump to keep the cold winter air or hot summer air out. Nothing like doing 75 down the freeway being blasted by road air right in the face haha


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