# reloading



## omegabrock (Jun 16, 2014)

by now, im sure some of yall can see i have a lot of questions and i am all over the place. my next question is for reloading. something i want to get into but don't know where to start. i have researched some and it seems like everywhere i search it is broken down into 2 categories. a stationary press and a portable type. from that point, it seems everybody just says "find a good one". what makes a good one? are there features on some that make them better? do those features make others obsolete? also, another guy asked me if i was going to 'make the parts', like melting the lead down to make the bullets...is that even a good option to take? (cost efficient over time and other equipment)


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

Kind of like the question what motor oil is best.
Single stage lowest cost good for most 
Progressive does operation on a turret can be faster if you are doing a lot many feel it is over kill for starting out
Lee is considered by most to be ok and a good starter at a low price
Then the wars start witch of the others is best and 10 reasons why.
Don't send a lot starting out you may not like it


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## bigdogbuc (Mar 23, 2012)

This is where I started. And stayed. This kit has everything you need to get started with the exception of the dies. And unlike many set-ups (RCBS for Instance), you don't need an engineering degree to switch components.

Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Anniversary Kit

I like Lee. Not only is it quality gear, it's inexpensive. The dies are great and size FULL LENGTH, unlike many other dies, and run less than $40 for a FULL set. You'll also need Case Length Gauges (see comment below about case trimmers).

Eventually you'll want to get some Calipers (I use a set of Hornady Electronic Calipers), a digital weigh scale, a tumbler for your brass. I also picked up a set of Lee Measuring Dippers, but I figured out I like more control over my powder charges. But they work really well for basic, "ballpark" loads.

Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler
MTM Mini Digital Reloading Scale 750 Grain Capacity
Hornady Electronic Caliper 6 SS

I would also recommend getting a case trimmer of some sort. The one in the kit works, but holy shit, time consuming and leaves your hands cramped for days. I went to a Lee Ball Trimmer which helped, then a Zip-Trim which worked pretty well, now they have a new one out that I really like, it's the shit, and you CAN NOT beat the price;

Lee Deluxe Quick Trim Case Trimmer

Look at other trimming/case prep set ups - $$$$$ and more $$$$$$ = BULLSHIT.

The really nice thing about this particular set up is they use "Quick Change Bushings" so once you get your dies set, that's it. Remove the die with the bushing, stick in the next one and go. No "adjust, use, remove, adjust the next one" and so on. You set your dies ONCE. That's it.

Here's the secret on the powder dispenser for this set up; It is very accurate but can be a real Mother F'er to set up. Use the digital scale to set your "throw weight". Once your weight is set out of the dispenser, I've never had to mess with the setting. I check it about every 20 rounds, but it has NEVER changed. The weigh scale is extremely accurate too, but it is a balance beam scale, which can take forever for the thing to settle down. I'll use it to confirm calibration on my digital scale.

Lee Breech Lock Quick Change Bushings Package of 2

Once you get your system down, a single stage press can crank out some ammo. I would deprime/resize every case, then prime every case, then expand the neck/add powder to every case, then seat the bullet on every case, then crimp if needed. One step at a time. Everything is in the "same stage". Not like some auto loading progressive press, but it does the job. It's slow enough to avoid mistakes, allows you lots and lots of control and doesn't need constant adjusting and tuning. And there is one moving part. Keep it lubed and it will last you forever.

I have a buddy who went out and spent a good chunk of change on an Auto Indexing Four Hole Turret Press (Still a single stage press - one round at a time), bought turrets like crazy, racked up the expenses quickly. Next time I went over he had one of these. They just work.

Oh yeah, and get a Case Lube Pad if you're reloading rifles. It's quick and easy. But don't use a ton of lube, you'll dent your cases. If you're loading pistol, Lee has Carbide Dies for that and you don't need lube!


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## tango (Apr 12, 2013)

Buy a reloading manual (doesn't matter which) and read it cover to cover before you do anything else.
Get any questions answered by someone you know, knows about reloading.


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## Seneca (Nov 16, 2012)

Bullet casting is a whole other thing, Might want to save that project for another day. Yes it can be cost effective for practice ammo, yet there is a pretty hefty buy in to start up and without an inexpensive source of alloy you will probably be ahead to just buy bulk bullets like laser cast, berry's, rainier, etc.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

tango said:


> Buy a reloading manual (doesn't matter which) and read it cover to cover before you do anything else.
> Get any questions answered by someone you know, knows about reloading.


 Good point . If someone you know uses a Lee and you can work with them then you are why ahead by going that route.
Same with the others. They are all good each has it's own merits. Having some one that is experienced helps a lot.


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## Piratesailor (Nov 9, 2012)

tango said:


> Buy a reloading manual (doesn't matter which) and read it cover to cover before you do anything else.
> Get any questions answered by someone you know, knows about reloading.


Your best advice right there.


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## LunaticFringeInc (Nov 20, 2012)

omegabrock said:


> by now, im sure some of yall can see i have a lot of questions and i am all over the place. my next question is for reloading. something i want to get into but don't know where to start. i have researched some and it seems like everywhere i search it is broken down into 2 categories. a stationary press and a portable type. from that point, it seems everybody just says "find a good one". what makes a good one? are there features on some that make them better? do those features make others obsolete? also, another guy asked me if i was going to 'make the parts', like melting the lead down to make the bullets...is that even a good option to take? (cost efficient over time and other equipment)


I believe a stationary press refers to one that's bolted solidly to a heavy duty bench, and portable refers to something along the lines of the Lee Hand Press, at least in my mind that's how I see it. But I could be wrong here...

Find a good one. There are several that are good ones in my opinion. The RCBS Rock Chucker is one that comes to my mind first but its a single stage. Single stage is fine unless your a competition shooter and shooting high volumes of ammunition and need to produce ammo lickity split! Once you develop a good routine that's efficient, if you have a digital powder dispenser, you can crank out ammo with a single stage pretty damn quick at a pretty fair volume. I also like the Hornady Lock and Load too as well for the conveince of being able to take a shell plate and mount your dies to it adjust them and then just remove the shell plate to change calibers. That assumes you load the same recipe on a regular basis. If that's the case for you then that press might be a good one to choose. Redding, Dillon and Forester make a excellent presses as well. I own a RCBS Rock Chucker that I bought used that was used for decades heavily by its previous owner and I have used the dog piss out of that thing for about 3 decades myself and its showing no signs of giving up anytime soon. That's not always the case with a Lee Press. Now I do have 3 Lee presses, but I got them and about 400 bucks worth of dies and accessories for 100 bucks on a package deal!!! I do have two of the Lee Hand Presses and love the crap out of them although you need to eat your Wheaties if your loading much in the way of volume. But I have done some bench loading and some reloading at work during slack periods when I worked security on late night shifts. For that, they are wonderful! The only real advantage to a progressive press is the ability to crank out a high volume of finished rounds with one stroke of the lever after you get a round through the first few stations. For most shooters this is an unneeded higher cost to reloading that few can really justify. But hey if you have to have one and got long arms and deep pockets, then knock yourself out!

As for bullet casting...unless you are casting and loading and shooting a lot and have access to free or very cheap lead, I would pass on that idea. Once upon a time when you could walk into a tire shop and get a 5 gallon bucket of lead wheel weights for a song and dance if not free it did make a lot of sense. But today not so much unless your in a unique position to scam on cheap lead.


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## pakrat (Nov 18, 2012)

bigdogbuc said:


> This is where I started. And stayed. This kit has everything you need to get started with the exception of the dies. And unlike many set-ups (RCBS for Instance), you don't need an engineering degree to switch components.
> 
> Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Anniversary Kit
> 
> I like Lee. Not only is it quality gear, it's inexpensive. The dies are great and size FULL LENGTH, unlike many other dies, and run less than $40 for a FULL set. You'll also need Case Length Gauges (see comment below about case trimmers).


I started out 15-20 years ago with nearly the same set up. Other than upgrading to a digital scales and a powered case prep station, I'm still using the Lee Challenger kit. I've never been in enough of a hurry while reloading to want to get any more sophisicated. I take my time handling ever round and enjoy the craftman's perspective on the entire process. I typically run a batch of fifty rounds in an evening and feel good about the quantity and quality of what I make up.


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## LunaticFringeInc (Nov 20, 2012)

Got two of them and love the crap outta them! But then again I have always been a simple kind of man and I like simple kind of things and this is a work of art when it comes to simplicity! Yeah you do kinda use a little muscle with it but it works great and on the go like no other. My whole kit, 2 of them fit neatly in there own 50 cal ammo can with all of the accessories I "really" need if I need to reload some rounds. Every gun enthusiast worthy of being called a prepper or survivor should have at least one of these jewels in their stash of goodies!!! Its a good starting place too!


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

Timing is every thing. We purchased all the equipment awhile back task son number two to do the schooling and first batch. He showed up here this evening with the first 9mm. 3 different loads. We fired them in a sub compact LC9, a compact SR9C and a Full size 92FS berretta.
All went bang , all cycled as they should.
We went with Lee single stage for now main reason he has a friend that has used one for years working with him on it.


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## Infidel (Dec 22, 2012)

omegabrock said:


> by now, im sure some of yall can see i have a lot of questions and i am all over the place. my next question is for reloading. something i want to get into but don't know where to start. i have researched some and it seems like everywhere i search it is broken down into 2 categories. a stationary press and a portable type. from that point, it seems everybody just says "find a good one". what makes a good one? are there features on some that make them better? do those features make others obsolete? also, another guy asked me if i was going to 'make the parts', like melting the lead down to make the bullets...is that even a good option to take? (cost efficient over time and other equipment)


You're going to get answers to these questions that run the gamut, everything from buy yourself a Lee loader to buy a Dillon progressive. Only you know your budget and only you can decide what you need in the way of equipment. The advice on the loading manual is solid and I will second (or maybe even third or fourth) it. All reloading manuals have sections on equipment and the process of getting started personally I like the Lyman and Speer manuals for their getting started sections. Buy a manual and read it before purchasing equipment, this will save you some time and possibly some cash buying stuff you don't really need

When it comes to buying equipment, buy from one of the bigger companies (Lee, Lyman, RCBS) and you will have no issues as their customer service will be second to none. I personally would recommend a single stage press to start out or if you think you'll be loading any volume you might jump up to a turret style press. All of the major companies sell beginner kits that will contain most but not all of what you'll need to get started. Or you can pick up the stuff a little at a time until you get everything you need/want. At a minimum you'll need a press, scale, dies & shell holder, calipers (dial or electronic), some method of lubing cases for rifle cartridges, a loading manual, bullet puller (kinetic or collet) for any mistakes. Most presses will allow you to prime cases on the press and this works but is not the preferred method of most, a hand primer is cheap and well worth the investment. A powder measure is very convenient but not a necessity, you can also use the Lee powder scoops but verify your charges with a scale.

As for casting bullets, it can be worth it if you have access to the lead which ain't as cheap as it used to be as I'm sure you're aware. The initial cost can be a bit prohibitive but when you start accumulating bullets from your casting sessions it all becomes worth it especially if you price bullets for a retailer. Rifle cartridges (and some handgun) will need gas checks and once you're good and hooked on casting you want to buy a lubri-sizer most likely, this is where I'm at right now.

Most reloaders I know will tell you that you won't really save any money by reloading but it will allow you to shoot more. Unfortunately this is a bad time to get into the hobby due to the fact that the market still hasn't recovered from all the panic buying, some powders are still completely unavailable, hopefully this will change soon. Any questions, feel free to ask I'm sure we'll all try to help as best we can.

-Infidel


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## dwight55 (Nov 9, 2012)

I have two Lyman single stage presses, . . . cannot even begin to guess how many rounds they have cranked out. 

Found a real deal on a progressive, Hornady, haven't cranked it up yet, . . . but I am looking forward to it.

Had a Lee progressive once, . . . code word is "had", . . . never again.

You must have two things: confidence in yourself, . . . confidence in your equipment. 

YOU: If you cannot focus, . . . get in the "zone" doing things, . . . better leave reloading alone, as you will one day make a serious mistake which may hurt you or someone you love. One wrong powdered round will ruin your whole day. 

EQUIPMENT: It does not have to be expensive, or even top flight, . . . but it has to work the same way every time, . . . and work every time, . . . this is one place where "zero tolerance" is a good idea. One double charged round will ruin your whole day. 

It is fun, . . . it is rewarding, . . . and it does save you a few bucks.

May God bless,
Dwight


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## Smokin04 (Jan 29, 2014)

I'm in the progressive camp. I have a Dillon 550 progressive. The single stage presses get the job done, but man...if there is ANY QUESTION OF VOLUME...you need a progressive. I have 4 tool heads, one for each of the calibers I have. What does that mean? It means that once my dies are set up, I NEVER have to move, adjust, or change them. I merely swap the whole tool head when I change calibers, and every round is identical every time. On a single stage press, you have to set up every die, every time. For instance, once you de-prime and size a group of brass, you have to swap the die to press a bullet in...AFTER hand measuring each powder charge and pouring it in manually. That means checking measurements every time you swap a die. This will get very old, very quick. It will be an exercise in futility trying to reload pistol rounds on a single stage. 

I chose to buy top of the line gear to begin with, that way I wasn't wasting money on an inevitable purchase later. I can crank out 300-400 rounds an hour, in every caliber (minus .50 cal). 

I do agree with previously mentioned statement about the reloading manual though. I have 4 different manuals, and I use them...every time. Reloading is like training dogs. Everyone has their own technique that works for them. You read what they did...and try it out. When it's good, but not exactly what you're after, you change it to suit your needs, and make it your own. I'd be happy to help if you need more clarification or help with reloading.


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## bigdogbuc (Mar 23, 2012)

I save a TON of money reloading Infidel. If someone ISN'T saving a TON of money, they're doing it wrong, or their math is bad. At my best, I was making 45 Colt for right at $.25 a round. Commercially, they're over $1.00 and anemic at best. But I spend a lot of time finding deals, mostly because I have more time than money. 

I avoided re-loading for years and years because of my "perceived start-up expenses" for equipment. Everywhere you went it was Lyman, RCBS etc. and the price tags were enormous. Hundred of dollars. Dies we're ridiculously expensive. I had no idea LEE existed for the most part because you won't find it in most "box sporting good stores" because there isn't enough profit margin. 

Then I saw the LEE Kit on Midway USA and went "What? Really? No way." and ordered my set up right then and there. I just knew it had to be too good to be true so I jumped on it. That was 10 years ago. I read the directions, went through their load book they provide in the kit (pretty good by the way-lots of info) and started making ammo. It was all pretty self explanatory. I had no one to help me, but fortunately I was able to figure it out. I'm OCD about things being right and not blowing myself up. Plus I have a little mechanical ability and, god bless, critical thinking skills. 

With today's availability of quality YouTube videos, you can find guys who know their business. I remember Iraqveteran8888's early videos were pretty much about re-loading, casting bullets, stuff like that. One of these load books is not a bad deal, but depending on which one you buy, you'll find it geared to their stuff, their bullets, etc. And they're not cheap. They have good info, but as is Murphy's Law, tend to have less of the info that I need than what they do. I guess what I'm saying, is look up some YT videos and get a feel for what they have going. It's not anywhere near as complicated as some like to make it out to be. It really isn't. But you need to pay attention, and follow the steps. 

If you still have questions, go buy a load book. And so you know, there is a reason they have cellophane over them. I've owned one, it was a gift, I got rid of it. And it was Hornady's. I had more useful info in my supplied book that came with the kit. I found the "One Caliber/One Book" more useful, and a whole lot cheaper. There will be a learning curve for sure, but as long as you follow directions and guidelines (like how much powder to use for which weight bullet) you'll be fine.


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## Just Sayin' (Dec 5, 2013)

I'm still using the same RCBS single stage press that I bought in 1979 to reload .30-06, .44 Rem mag, .38/.357, .40 S&W, and 5.56. Yeah, it's slower, but it's therapeutic and I'll put my ammo against anyone's. I have Lee dies, RCBS dies, and other various manufacturers equipment that I've accumulated over the years, and it all still works. I've even got my original Speer load book, and still use it today. 

You can always move up to a progressive press if you really need to crank out a lot of rounds, but starting out, I'd recommend starting with a single stage press and learn all you can about each process involved in putting together a complete round. It's definitely the way to go if accuracy is your primary goal.


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## BullseyePrecision (Jun 10, 2014)

I have a Dillon 650 progressive reloader. I use it mainly for handgun ammo so I can really pump them out. I'm looking to get a single stage for strictly rifle ammo. I went with a Dillon because of their lifetime no bs warranty. I got a few dies from my grandpa that he used they hadn't been taken care of real well and were in pretty bad shape. I called Dillon and they shipped out new ones that day for free.


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## Notsoyoung (Dec 2, 2013)

I save allot of money reloading but just as important to me is the therapeutic effects and satisfaction I get from the time I spend reloading. I weigh the powder on my electronic scale for each round. Yes it is slower but I get a noticeable improvement in accuracy and consistency of my rounds over mid-level manufactured ammo. I will readily admit that it is a little anal retentive, but it's how I like to do it, and for me that's all that matters.


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Start saving your brass now!


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## SARGE7402 (Nov 18, 2012)

tango said:


> Buy a reloading manual (doesn't matter which) and read it cover to cover before you do anything else.
> Get any questions answered by someone you know, knows about reloading.


Actually some of the powder companies publish their load data on line.


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## LunaticFringeInc (Nov 20, 2012)

SARGE7402 said:


> Actually some of the powder companies publish their load data on line.


Yes they do. In fact I have archived a crap load of data on MS Excel sortable by Caliber, Powder, Case, Bullet, Primer and pressure levels. Its been a long on going process but its starting to really pay off and be quite the gold mine of information. Of course I have went to great lengths to make sure that its all from a manual or from "authorized sources" such as the manufacture.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

If you aren't sure that you really want to get into reloading then buy a lee loader. I think they re about $15 now but back in 1969 when I started reloading I got a Lee loader. The directions tell you to use a mallet but I invested in a used bottle capping press and used that in place of the mallet. I was loading for my 30-06 and made some darn good loads with that little setup. It comes with everything you need except powder, bullets and cases. It is all low tech but it does work. 
Once I decided I was going to reload for the rest of my life I invested in high quality equipment. After looking around at Lee, Lyman, Redding, Pacific, RCBS, and Dillon I went with the RCBS Rockchucker kit. I had to add things to it, trimmer, primer pocket reamers, and other things I made as needed. My stuck case remover was made the afternoon that I stuck my first case. 

Later on I got a good deal on a Dillon 550 and after working with it for about two weeks I sold it. It took me more time to load 100 3006 rounds on the "semi-progressive" Dillon 550 than it did to run them through my Rockchucker. There is nothing wrong with the 550. It is a fine press but you have to trust it to seat the primers correctly, dump in the right amount of powder, and seat the bullet while you pull the lever and turn to the next index. It took me so long because I stopped the process to check the primers, again to check the powder level and then went on to the next index. It just didn't work for me. I have been around progressive presses and they do seat primers backwards or on edge and they sometimes get skimpy or generous with powder dumps.
In the next post I will show the steps I follow when reloading and you will better understand why.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

The following process is what I came up with shortly after I began reloading and had some of the "normal" malfunctions that new reloaders experience, like contaminated primers, hard chambering, and most important inaccuracy. Some of the processes may have to be modified to suit your gun or equipment. This is not the only way - it is my way.

My reloading method for bottle-neck cartridges:
*For new cases the first time and range brass the first time
1. carefully examine the brass for defects wiping it down as you do
2. lubricate the body and neck (inside the neck too)*
3. full length size the case (for cases that have been fired from your rifle I only size the neck and only to about 80% of its length)*
4. ream the primer pockets to uniform size and depth*
5. ream the flash hole to uniform size*
6. trim the case to the desired length (I use the maximum case length but most use the "trim to" size)
7. chamfer the neck inside and out to remove any burrs
8. clean the brass (I use a tumbler because I can do all the brass (up to 100 3006 cases) at once
9. carefully inspect the brass, clean out the flash hole if necessary, weigh the cases and select those that are +/- 2 grains from the median weight. (set the others aside for plinking or general shooting when accuracy is not important*
10. prime the brass without touching the primers (I use the RCBS or Lee hand primer for this)
11. set all the cases in the reloading block neck up
12. Set the scale to the weight of powder for the load you will use
13. adjust your measure to throw exactly that amount
14. readjust your scale to ten times the weight of powder for the load you will use
15. throw ten charges into the pan from your measure and weigh it
16. adjust the powder measure so it throws ten charges to the exact weight of 10 times your desired weight
17. throw a single charge and weigh it - if it is right then continue - if not then check it with ten charges again and adjust the measure accordingly 
18. throw your charges into the cases in the block
19. when all the cartridges have powder in them inspect the level between the cases to make sure that they are all at the same level. Any high or low ones have to be emptied and recharged.
20. seat the bullets in the cases by seating them half way down and then turning them 180 degrees and finish the seating process. All loads are seated to book specifications.
21. pack the cartridges into the box and label them with the date, load information and caliber
That is all there is to it!

some explanations may help to understand the why of my method:
....Examining the brass multiple times helps to find the small imperfections, like minor splits or cracks that are not apparent until sizing. 
....weighing the brass makes sure that all the internal volumes are within 2 grains of brass - that means that the powder space variance in the cases will remain within .25 grains so pressures will be kept uniform.
....Setting up the powder charge by using ten charges will keep the thrown charges (with small kernel powders) within +/- .02 grains - much tighter tolerance than your scale can measure with a single charge weighed.
....touching primers is the best way I know of to contaminate them - so DON'T!
....Comparing the powder level in the cases is the best way to assure that there are not light or heavy charges and that there is no foreign material left in the case from the cleaning process.
....Leaving part of the neck unsized helps to center the cartridge in the chamber. It is more accurate.

All my guns are hunting guns - not bench-rest or target guns but I expect five shot groups to be under an inch at 100 yards


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## omegabrock (Jun 16, 2014)

oh man, this post really took off over the weekend. i can't get on during the weekend because of family time but there are a lot of good responses here.

for informative people i can talk to about reloading - yall are it. i dont know anybody that is knowledgeable, just the 'i know a guy that knows a guy whose dad reloads'.

i think i'll start with a lee manual and read that. price is the main issue right now and i don't need mass quantities of ammo. for calibers, i only need .308 and .223/5.56 as of right now, but ill be adding a couple hand guns to the mix hopefully soon. can you load your own 12ga?

someone mentioned saving brass now (sorry, still learning names), i've been saving since the first time i went to the range haha. i only have a few hundred right now


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## omegabrock (Jun 16, 2014)

one more question - do you have to use lead or is there something else that is effective and cheap?


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## Denver (Nov 16, 2012)

One thing I didn't see in the other posts. Buy only tools and components that are currently being made. There are are lot of "good" presses, measures, dies and the like on Ebay, BUT they are from companies that are out of business or have merged. Herters, Texsun, and Western Field come to mind. They made great stuff, but you cant get parts now. 

The new Lee, Hornaday, and RCBS equipment is easier to work with today that the older stuff. I have been "rolling my own" for 40 years and have tried all the gimmicks. I have stayed with my Lee Turret for pistol and a Rock Chucker for rifle. I have a MEC 650 for 12ga shotshells. I really doubt if I save anything by reloading, but I have never ran out of ammo. Be sure to buy components even if you don't need em. My wife forsaw the current shortage 5 years ago. She would make me pick up a lb of powder or 1000 primers when we would go to Gander or the LGS. Gotta love a woman like that.


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## Denver (Nov 16, 2012)

Lead is the only thing to use when casting.


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## wallyLOZ (May 12, 2013)

Not much to add to all of the info here. Just read, read, and then read some more. Go SLOW, be safe. Learn from someone that already reloads. One thing I don't recall anyone mentioning is, keep a log book. Write down all pertinent info including date, time, and number of rounds loaded. Mark the boxes the same way. When a round does, or does not, do what you want it to, go back and include it in your log. 

Reloading is a great hobby. I would start with a Lee press as well. No reason to tie up a large chunk of money only to find out you don't like it. Keep us posted on your progress.


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## Montana Rancher (Mar 4, 2013)

Smokin04 said:


> I'm in the progressive camp. I have a Dillon 550 progressive. The single stage presses get the job done, but man...if there is ANY QUESTION OF VOLUME...you need a progressive. I have 4 tool heads, one for each of the calibers I have. What does that mean? It means that once my dies are set up, I NEVER have to move, adjust, or change them. I merely swap the whole tool head when I change calibers, and every round is identical every time. On a single stage press, you have to set up every die, every time. For instance, once you de-prime and size a group of brass, you have to swap the die to press a bullet in...AFTER hand measuring each powder charge and pouring it in manually. That means checking measurements every time you swap a die. This will get very old, very quick. It will be an exercise in futility trying to reload pistol rounds on a single stage.
> 
> I chose to buy top of the line gear to begin with, that way I wasn't wasting money on an inevitable purchase later. I can crank out 300-400 rounds an hour, in every caliber (minus .50 cal).
> 
> I do agree with previously mentioned statement about the reloading manual though. I have 4 different manuals, and I use them...every time. Reloading is like training dogs. Everyone has their own technique that works for them. You read what they did...and try it out. When it's good, but not exactly what you're after, you change it to suit your needs, and make it your own. I'd be happy to help if you need more clarification or help with reloading.


I totally agree with this post, Dillon is the best progressive loader for the money hands down.

I just replaced my Dillon 450 reloader (purchased back in .... just a guess... 1984) and between my father, brother and I have run a hundred thousand rounds through it with not a problem. I decided to upgrade to the 550 because it is inexpensive and the swappable die plates are like Christmas in June.

Hand loads will save your 50% off your shooting costs, but keep in mind that some components are scarce. If you keep to the mainstream reloading powders and basic bullets you are good, if you like to follow the current trends you will likely find yourself with no sources for your craft.

I.e. IMR4831 is still a rock solid powder from .243 to 30-06, but learn to replace it with H4350, R22, H350 etc.

In this day and age be flexible and trust me "primers" are all the same, don't get caught with all the snobs touting this brand or that number as the best, I've shot more and reloaded more than most on this forum and it doesn't matter.


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## Gunner's Mate (Aug 13, 2013)

As an avid reloader I can offer some good advice and some solid recommendations on rock solid equipment 
1. Define your goals if you plan on reloading serious quantity say round counts in the 1000 plus number forget the single stage stuff get at the least a Redding T-7 Turret Press or a Dillon 650 progressive press.
2. Whether or not you are loading a 100 rnds or 10,000 rnds get a Giraud case trimmer Dont waste your money on any other trimmer its worth the expense trims and chamfers in one operation the nearest thing I can compare it to is an electric pencil sharpener Trimming and chamfering are the most tedious part of reloading. 
3. Reloading Area / keep it neat and clean. T-Track is the greatest thing since sliced bread for a reloading bench it allows for extremely easy mounting of different tools and presses check out Rockler for T-Track think your space out you dont need a lot of space my bench is 5 ft with 2 3 ft book case on each side 
4. Case cleaning / I have tried all kinds of Case cleaning the Hands down Best is the Stainless Steel Media tumbler your brass looks like new including the primer pockets. Uses 1 gal of tap water, 3 tbl spoons of dawn dish soap 1/4 tea spoon of Lemishine and a Tbl spoon of Cream of Tartar 
5. Lube / Dillon Spray Lube is awesome you can lube a hundred case plus in couple of minutes 
6. brass / I have 2 kinds Processed and Not Processed - Processed Brass is resized deprimed trimmed and chamfered its ready for primer powder and bullet / Not Processed is just that, fired brass
7. Loaded Ammo Storage / for Bulk Good Ole USGI ammo cans - For Small lots caseguard ammo boxes are hard to beat 
8. scales / I have both digital and Beam I prefer Beam 
9. Calipers / I use Dial Style not the Digital style 
10. Powder and Primers do not store the together
11. Distrations / Kids wives TV phones ect., reloading demands your full attention 
12. Equipment / by it once, by the best, do your research. Its a lot cheaper to buy say one Giraud case trimmer than say a Forester and a Lyman and a Giraud ask me how I know.
13 Read the reloading manuals and ask questions 
14. Buy a chronograph it will tell you what your load is doing 
15. Bullet seating Depth is probably the single biggest thing that will affect you accuracy for better or Worse 
16. Vertical strings when you shoot tend to point to powder issues ( Brand or +/- on Grains ) I increase .20 at a time Horizontal Strings are usually shooter errors, now circluar strings are the hardest to pinpoint Could be the shooter could be the powder charge could be the bullet seating depth or something else


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## Gunner's Mate (Aug 13, 2013)

Presses I Use 
Rcbs pro 2000 Progressive Press I use it Exclusively for Deprime and resize
Redding T7 Turrret Presswith a Rcbs case activated powder measure I use for Small Lots like say 100 rnds or so 
RCBS Rock Chucker single stage Press for the 338 Lapua and 6.5 Creedmore Long distance match quality ammo 
Dillon XL 650 Progressive for everything else pistol and rifle
Mec 600 for 20 ga and Mec 600 for 12 ga 
Stanless Steel Media Tumbler for case cleaning 
Giraud Case Trimmer 
Forester Case trimmer 
Lyman Case Trimmer 
Rcbs Dial calipers 
Rcbs Kinetic bullet puller (Hammer)
Dillon Beam Scales
Rcbs Hand Primer 
Redding Powder Trickler 
Redding Powder Measure 
Rcbs Case activated Powder Measure 
Dillon Spray Lube 
Carbide Dies for all my pistol Calibers / Straight Wall Cases 
Dillon Super Swager for removing military primer Pocket Crimps 
If I were starting out new to reloading the press I would recommend would be the Dillon 650 or the Redding T7 with the Rcbs Case activated Powder Measure *THE absoulute must have list would be the Following:*
Redding T7 with the Rcbs Case activated Powder Measure or the Dillon 650
Giraud Case Trimmer 
Stainless Steel Media Tumbler 
Dillon Super Swager if you load for any thing that has a military crimp


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## omegabrock (Jun 16, 2014)

thanks guys...im glad i didnt go out and just buy the first, cheapest press i saw lol.


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## tango (Apr 12, 2013)

Buy a quality set and it will last for years.
I am using the setup (RCBS) that I bought used in 1976.
Had to get replacement parts for my auto priming tool, (worn out), They were warranted. 
RCBS has great equipment and greater warranty.


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## Coppertop (Dec 20, 2013)

Like Tango I use RCBS and it has been rock solid. I like the idea I read about keeping a log book, It helps a bunch.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

RCBS equipment is as good as any you can buy and better than some. I keep my reloading records in three ring binders - one for every load I have ever tried in each gun and then one for those loads that I list as my "favorite loads" - the ones that shoot to under an inch consistently. I keep copies on all three computers and have archive copies in CD/DVD archive format. I have load records from when I was using the little Lee Loader in 1969...

Records are very important.


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## just mike (Jun 25, 2014)

Lots of good advice so I will add some to it. I started reloading in the late 70's with a Rock Chucker, you can't break them. Now using a Dillon 550b. If you do not shoot hundreds of rounds monthly a single stage will get you thru, it's just a time thing. I find reloading releases almost as much stress as firing the results downrange. Try to find The ABC's of Reloading published by Gun Digest Books, and read it thru once or twice before you buy anything. Some people start reloading and just don't have the patience to really learn how to do it safely and correctly, so they spend several hundred dollars only to sell their equipment cheaply to people like me who WILL use it. I have Lots of dies and all kinds of stuff stacked back for safe keeping or barter. After you read and hopefully learn The ABC'S then decide what you want and buy a good reloading manual. Whatever you buy READ and understand what you are doing and take your time, do not get in a hurry. I have seen several guns destroyed by impatient people. Good Luck and Happy Loading.


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## omegabrock (Jun 16, 2014)

thanks for that tip mike, finishing up another read today that was recommended and then i will jump your suggestion up to the top. i like to shoot, between 150-200 rounds a month as of now. i would definitely go more if i had the ammo haha...and my wife likes to load a mag just to empty it as fast as she can...she doesnt go with me much


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## Dalarast (May 16, 2014)

Instead of opening a new thread I thought I would re-visit this thread. Reading through all the posts each of you have different ideas for presses and equipment and recommend reading manuals. Besides ABC's of Reloading... what are some other great books out there. I know I will be getting into reloading when I get home; but I am a man who does his homework before he walks outside so to speak. 

Thank you all in advance!


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

Smokin04 said:


> I'm in the progressive camp. I have a Dillon 550 progressive. The single stage presses get the job done, but man...if there is ANY QUESTION OF VOLUME...you need a progressive. I have 4 tool heads, one for each of the calibers I have. What does that mean? It means that once my dies are set up, I NEVER have to move, adjust, or change them. I merely swap the whole tool head when I change calibers, and every round is identical every time. On a single stage press, you have to set up every die, every time. For instance, once you de-prime and size a group of brass, you have to swap the die to press a bullet in...AFTER hand measuring each powder charge and pouring it in manually. That means checking measurements every time you swap a die. This will get very old, very quick. It will be an exercise in futility trying to reload pistol rounds on a single stage.
> 
> I chose to buy top of the line gear to begin with, that way I wasn't wasting money on an inevitable purchase later. I can crank out 300-400 rounds an hour, in every caliber (minus .50 cal).
> 
> I do agree with previously mentioned statement about the reloading manual though. I have 4 different manuals, and I use them...every time. Reloading is like training dogs. Everyone has their own technique that works for them. You read what they did...and try it out. When it's good, but not exactly what you're after, you change it to suit your needs, and make it your own. I'd be happy to help if you need more clarification or help with reloading.


::clapping::

Now for the big question-
How often do you check the powder drop when doing 3-400 @ hour?
Do you load 223 on the blue?
If so , how to you visually check for powder since the powder measure is questionable? IMO.
I have a Shish Kabob skewer trimmed down with a powder level mark on it that I insert in each case at the bullet seating station.
That slows me down to about 200 223's @ hour.
9mm or 45 is about 250 @ hour

I do have about 2500 loaded of the 3 calibers total since Easter so I'm a little green with big blue.


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## Jeep (Aug 5, 2014)

So I am not real familiar with re-loading equipment. I know some of the tools can do multiple calibers that you purchase the Dies for. I have several hundred rds of 9mm and .223, but am considering 2 purchases that may dictate what I want to reload. I am wanting to purchase another 7.62 and a .45. My thoughts are to save the smaller calibers as much as possible since I have it. Once I have the larger weapons my thought is to just purchase the brass and powder and all, plus purchase factory rds. SO I would only be reloading the more devastating rds.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

The shooting range I go to is outdoors now that I live in AZ. They tell us to clean up out brass and do, and the people next to me all over the place. I've been stashing brass for a little while now. I've yet to do any more than sort into calibers but I've got every think I need. I don't need .40 or 30-06 or .30 carbine but have been thinking about adding the dies for SHTF event to trade/barter.


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## Dalarast (May 16, 2014)

Jeep said:


> So I am not real familiar with re-loading equipment. I know some of the tools can do multiple calibers that you purchase the Dies for. I have several hundred rds of 9mm and .223, but am considering 2 purchases that may dictate what I want to reload. I am wanting to purchase another 7.62 and a .45. My thoughts are to save the smaller calibers as much as possible since I have it. Once I have the larger weapons my thought is to just purchase the brass and powder and all, plus purchase factory rds. SO I would only be reloading the more devastating rds.


Jeep -

What equipment you plan on picking up for the reloading? That's the question I'm trying to figure out still. One of my soldiers I found is big into reloading and was telling me about the progressive style presses. I think he convinced me. He did warn me as Aqualhull pointed out about insuring the powder level is accurate.. especially if I plan to reload 7.62x54r.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

The 30 caliber opening will let powder flow a lot easier than the 22 caliber opening


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

To begin reloading all you need is the original Lee Loader kit. It is probably around $25 now but when I started they were under $10 each. In addition to the kit you will need primers, powder and bullets. These kits are only good for reloading brass that you have fired from your gun but they are good to start the process. (the pistol loaders will resize the entire case but the rifle kits only neck size cases so it the ammo was used in a different gun it might not fit yours)

If you are sure that you will be loading for the rest of your life then buy an RCBS Rock Chucker reloading kit and the dies for the calibers that you want to load. The Rock Chucker kit contains all the necessities but you will want to add a set of dial calipers to measure case lengths and a universal trimmer to trimm them when they get too long. If you are reloading military brass you will need a primer pocket reamer. You can get a primer pocket brush set (2) to clean primer pockets after they have been fired and a rock tumbler for tumble cleaning your brass. The simplest method is to get crushed walnut shells from a local feed and grain store to use as cleaning material. It is very cheap and works well.
Plan on investing about $500 over the first two years (including the cost of the kit)

My advice is to leave the progressive presses to a later time when you are willing to invest $1000 plust the cost of caliber change kits for each caliber. It is very easy to invest $1200 in the first year when dealing with a progressive loader.


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## 1895gunner (Sep 23, 2012)

I load everything between 38 special and 458 Winchester Magnum to include shotgun shells. I started with and have stayed with the cheapest Lee $27 single stage press for everything. I enjoy crafting my reloads versus cranking out thousands in a day.

- A good reloading book or a dozen
- Press
- Dies
- Primer Tool
- Lube for rifle dies (buy carbide dies for handgun - no lube required for those)
- Shell holders (for press & primer tool)
- Scale
- Powder
- Primers
- Bullets

You will end up buying all kinds of tools/aids as you go but the list above will get you started. I have to say I enjoy reloading "almost" as much as shooting. Good luck and ask questions often.







1895gunner


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

PaulS said:


> To begin reloading all you need is the original Lee Loader kit. It is probably around $25 now but when I started they were under $10 each. In addition to the kit you will need primers, powder and bullets. These kits are only good for reloading brass that you have fired from your gun but they are good to start the process. (the pistol loaders will resize the entire case but the rifle kits only neck size cases so it the ammo was used in a different gun it might not fit yours)
> 
> If you are sure that you will be loading for the rest of your life then buy an RCBS Rock Chucker reloading kit and the dies for the calibers that you want to load. The Rock Chucker kit contains all the necessities but you will want to add a set of dial calipers to measure case lengths and a universal trimmer to trimm them when they get too long. If you are reloading military brass you will need a primer pocket reamer. You can get a primer pocket brush set (2) to clean primer pockets after they have been fired and a rock tumbler for tumble cleaning your brass. The simplest method is to get crushed walnut shells from a local feed and grain store to use as cleaning material. It is very cheap and works well.
> Plan on investing about $500 over the first two years (including the cost of the kit)
> ...


Ya Think?


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## Jeep (Aug 5, 2014)

Thanks for all the advice, have no idea as of now what I will do, still trying to get a workbench built and such


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## Dalarast (May 16, 2014)

Jeep said:


> Thanks for all the advice, have no idea as of now what I will do, still trying to get a workbench built and such


Since I'm pressed for space and already take up an entire spare bedroom for a make-shift brewery and supply room I plan on picking up a small workbench. Basically something that I can set up and leave in a corner; but that could be pulled out and utilized when needed for reloading and working on the rifles as well.

So the Lee systems seem to have a lot of votes of support. Does anyone recommend getting the "kits" that are sold on amazon and other locations or just piecing it together with the equipment that is needed?


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

I have the plans (my own design) for a "reloading station" that takes up only 27x 39 inches of floor space and is only 30" tall. I have been using it for the last 28 years and it works very well for me.
If you are interested in taking a look at them just email me at: pauls 1950 (at) yahoo (dot) com. (no spaces and replace the (at) and (dot) with the appropriate keystroke)


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

I am jealous of 1895Gunner


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## just mike (Jun 25, 2014)

Dalarast said:


> Since I'm pressed for space and already take up an entire spare bedroom for a make-shift brewery and supply room I plan on picking up a small workbench. Basically something that I can set up and leave in a corner; but that could be pulled out and utilized when needed for reloading and working on the rifles as well.
> 
> So the Lee systems seem to have a lot of votes of support. Does anyone recommend getting the "kits" that are sold on amazon and other locations or just piecing it together with the equipment that is needed?


Buy the kit- you will save in the long run. Lee starter kit at the gun shop down the street from me was right at 350.00 this morning. Then you need your dies, brass, primers, bullets and powder. After that the fun really starts.


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## Dalarast (May 16, 2014)

just mike said:


> Buy the kit- you will save in the long run. Lee starter kit at the gun shop down the street from me was right at 350.00 this morning. Then you need your dies, brass, primers, bullets and powder. After that the fun really starts.


This is going to be my Christmas present for myself.

Paul - I'll probably be sending you an email later on this week too. Apparently when I get home I have to give up my beer/army storage room according to my 9 year old daughter. She apparently wants her own room and my wife wasn't to keen on her living in a brewery and ammo reloading room.... women geesh!


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

RockChucker for the win,you won't be second guessing yourself..The RC Kit is good also.
The Lee Safety Scale sucks Monkey Balls.


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