# Ammo can question



## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

I bought some ammo cans to use for ammo storage. I have never put ammo
up for storage before. - never saw a reason till now-

I didn't want the small cans so I got the 50 cal. 11.5x6x7 for about $11 each w/shipping.
They are supposed to be grade 1 in good shape (we'll see)

How can I test the lids to see if they are airtight?
The only thing I can think of is to put some water in them and let them set upside down
and see if they leak?

And what do I need to know other than put some oxygen absorbers in the can with the ammo? 
How many in each can?

look like a decent price?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221684037651?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT


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## Salt-N-Pepper (Aug 18, 2014)

Desiccants, not oxy absorbents... you don't want to suck the lids down so tight you can't open them. What you want is DRY. 

If the seals look good they should restrict airflow at 1 atmosphere. If you REALLY want to test one, put weight in it and put it in a bucket of water. Having said that, you will probably cause the can to rust, so I would just skip that step.


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## Diver (Nov 22, 2014)

The cans will be airtight as long as they aren't really badly dented and the rubber gasket is in good shape. The gasket is really the thing to worry about. However, I have never had one go bad. Generally when I buy a used can the gasket will seem okay but perhaps a bit dry. I will clean up the can and then apply a very light coat of silicone grease. This stuff is used to help keep the O rings watertight on underwater camera housings. The rubber will feel a bit better to the touch with the silicone. Don't use much as you don't want it getting all over the contents of your can.

My practice is probably a bit of overkill, but I already have the silicone with my scuba gear.

If you find the cans have some rust, just clean it off and repaint the can. I have rarely gotten any so bad they required repainting.


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## Hemi45 (May 5, 2014)

Conversely, and what I'd do, is submerge the closed can in water and look for bubbles. After all, you want to prove the seal is "air tight." Also, I toss in a couple desiccant packs with my ammo and think nothing else of it.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Smaller ammo cans are actually better unless you like getting a hernia.


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## Seneca (Nov 16, 2012)

Desiccant paper similar to what you'd find in a box of Russian 7.62x39 ammo (wolf etc.) will work. Also at some point you may want to label the cans. I use clear box tape and a small square of paper. I write the caliber on the paper and affix it to the top and front of the can. This method has worked the best for me. YMMV


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## Hemi45 (May 5, 2014)

HuntingHawk said:


> Smaller ammo cans are actually better unless you like getting a hernia.


That and a can full of 5.56 is a lot better than one full of .45ACP!


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## Camel923 (Aug 13, 2014)

Any doubts about the seal place silicone gel or vasoline. If the cans are grade one I would expect no issues.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

hemi45 said:


> that and a can full of 5.56 is a lot better than one full of .45acp!


1100 will fit easily


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## Hemi45 (May 5, 2014)

AquaHull said:


> 1100 will fit easily


I was referring to the weight. I suspect one could anchor a 20ft boat in a storm with a 50 cal can full of 230 grain .45's!


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## Boss Dog (Feb 8, 2013)

Camel923 said:


> Any counts about the seal place silicone gel or vasoline. If the cans are grade one I would expect no issues.





Diver said:


> ...Generally when I buy a used can the gasket will seem okay but perhaps a bit dry. I will clean up the can and then apply a very light coat of silicone grease. This stuff is used to help keep the O rings watertight on underwater camera housings. The rubber will feel a bit better to the touch with the silicone...


^^This. We used Vaseline in the Navy for ammo can seals and all kinds of O-rings. 
For seals that are real bad, I've heard of guys using red RTV to fill in the trough around the old seal. Seems like a lot of bother. I'd just use it for gp and get another can if a moisture seal is needed.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

I can put 1000 rounds of .45 ACP 230 grain in their boxes in a .50 cal box. Can barely lift it, but with my back, that's not saying much.
About 900 round of .223/5.56 in a .30 cal box on stripper clips.


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## tango (Apr 12, 2013)

Do not use any petroleum product on the seals!
Inspect the seals(before you buy) to ensure they are soft and supple.
Use only a non petroleum lube (vasaline) to lube them.
Make sure the cans are not rusty anywhere, and that the lid latches tightly and you should be GTG.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

HuntingHawk said:


> Smaller ammo cans are actually better unless you like getting a hernia.


 Yes they get heavy very fast


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Smitty901 said:


> Yes they get heavy very fast


Yes, and sadly, they tend to sink even faster after a dreadful boating accident... :frown-new:


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## Seneca (Nov 16, 2012)

If you plan on having more than just a few ammo cans then a good set of steel shelves are handy. I have a set of gorilla shelves that are steel framed with particle board shelves. Of course I only store bric-a-brac and knickknacks on the shelves yet, if I were to have ammo cans full of ammo they'd be ideal.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

You had a boating accident too?


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

tango said:


> Use only a non petroleum lube (vasaline) to lube them.


If you look at the label on a jar of Vaseline, right under the name Vaseline it will say Petroleum Jelly.


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

Hemi45 said:


> I was referring to the weight. I suspect one could anchor a 20ft boat in a storm with a 50 cal can full of 230 grain .45's!


Or a 50 cal can filled with link belt 50 BMG.
I gave up on the ammo cans and put a non working refrigerator out in the barn, one very large ammo can. :armata_PDT_12:


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

First, I use may Foodsavor to make my own repack kits. 

Second, I use lithium grease on the seals of the ammo cans. Might just need that little bit of lubricant for a rifle.


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## bigwheel (Sep 22, 2014)

Well yall have got me on the horns of a dielemma. I got quite a bit of ammo from when my big brother recently gifted me with some goodies. Some of them are bound to be getting a bit long in the tooth so to speak..but has reportedly been kept mostly indoors etc. Trying to figure out if it would be best to try to lock it down in one of them gizmos or just keep on like I am doing as in tight and dry in the house..dark closet blah blah. The guy who peddles the ammo cans is supposed to show up at Broncos tomorrow. Think I still have a bunch of high quality dessicant packs left over from back when the making jerky for fun an profit bug..hit last time..lol. I am seeing some possibilities on this deal.


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## MI.oldguy (Apr 18, 2013)

I bought brand new,unissued cans years and years ago,without desiccants I have shot ammo that I put in them 25+ years ago.no issues.just dont open the cans every month to look at your vast stores.label the contents and quanity then forget about it till your ready to use it.


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## tango (Apr 12, 2013)

RPD, you are correct about the petroleum jelly.
I meant don't use petroleum products like motor or grease.


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

Most ammo, and especially military surplus ammo, will hold up very well as long as it's kept inside where it is dry.
In the 1970's I was shooting 30-06 USGI ammo headstamped 1918 with no problem. 
Currently I have USGI M2 Ball from the 50's, Bulgarian 7.62X54R from 1954, and Chinese 7.62X39 from the 70's. (Among other calibers/gauges/manufacturers).
The bulk of my ammo has been stored for years in a barn that gets to 110 degrees in the summer, and in the low twenties in the winter.

To test the "must be kept cool" theory that internet experts spout, last year I fired the rounds in the two 357 magnum revolvers that are my vehicle guns. Summer in Florida means vehicle interior temps of 140 and above. This ammo had been in there two years, and all fired just fine. If there was any reduction in velocity it was imperceptible.

Like I said above, my ammo is kept in GI cans, an old refrigerator, and a plain old cabinet.


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## Gunner's Mate (Aug 13, 2013)

Freeze a bottle of water, leave the can outside to warm, bring can inside, put frozen bottle of water inside ammo can, shut lid, if lid opens easily its not airtight if lid is a will not open it is ait tight this has to do with the temp chang creating a slight vacuum until the temps equalize


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## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

Ok I got the cans and I'm sure they are airtight I had a heck of a time getting them open the
first time. There was a whoosh of air sound when I finally did get them open. The cans are marked
they say "packaged with desiccants do not open until ready to use or inspection" But there is
nothing in them. Just an odd smell and what looks like a very light coat of something greasy.
The insides look new. For $11 a can with shipping I'm happy.


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## Anthonyx (Mar 14, 2015)

For storing ammo I use bisqueen and a sealameal.
I make a pouch from the plastic and seal it loose so it can expand and contract with barometric changes and keep the pouches in any available container that is vermin proof.
Ammo cans are a pain in theya zz.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

I keep my loaded ammo in the shelves in my reloading area, more in the bedroom closet, and some more in the ammo cabinet in the gun cabinet. None of it is sealed but all of it remains at room temperature all year long. I have fired handloads that were over ten years old without a hitch.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

Hey PaulS, hope you're home to tell the FD where your reloading room is, if you ever have a fire. I have a similar dilemma. I'd prefer to store it away from the house but...


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## Sarkus (Sep 11, 2014)

paraquack said:


> Hey PaulS, hope you're home to tell the FD where your reloading room is, if you ever have a fire. I have a similar dilemma. I'd prefer to store it away from the house but...


Go do some reading on that subject. Ammo doesn't "go off" in a fire.


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## Salt-N-Pepper (Aug 18, 2014)

Sarkus said:


> Go do some reading on that subject. Ammo doesn't "go off" in a fire.


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## stillacitizen2 (Jan 30, 2015)

HuntingHawk said:


> Smaller ammo cans are actually better unless you like getting a hernia.


I have one of those .50 Cal cans. Holy Jesus. Needless to say, I used it for ammo once, took the ammo back out and said "never again".

I actually use my smaller ammo cans for stuff like storing smokeless powder, even one for all the stuff I need to cast my own ammo for my Black Powder Revolvers; Lead, two different bullet moulds, small 1 qt. cast iron pot and handle, also an aluminum pot, Bees Wax, etc. It's a "Go" can. Anything and everything I need for them are in three different "Go Bags", one I can toss in my back pack for a couple days out, the two bigger ones for "We're out of here". One of those has everything I need to reload shotgun shells on the fly, including an antique crimper. I did the same thing for all my weapons. Made Go Bags for all of them individually. If I need one, I grab the gun, its bag, and I go (like to the range). If I need to get outta town, I grab the guns, the supporting bags and I'm gone. Quick, easy, organized.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

Sarkus said:


> Go do some reading on that subject. Ammo doesn't "go off" in a fire.


WTF do you think it does? No it doesn't fire as if in a firearm. I never said that nor did I imply it.
When it gets hot enough from the fire for ignition it ruptures the shell casing. Usually not much
happens but bullets and cases do go flying and I wouldn't want to be in the way. One of our firetrucks 
had numerous small dents and paint pocks from a house where the guy had a lot of ammo stored. 
BTW, as soon as we heard it going off, the firefighters beat a hasty retreat behind the trucks and 
let the place burn until the snap, crackle and pop stopped.

edited:
Thanks Salt-N-Pepper


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

Firefighters dressed in the typical suits and wearing the face masks are safe from harm of flying brass and bullets in a fire. It sounds really bad when ammo starts cooking off but with heavy clothes and a faceshield you are safe from even getting bruises.

With that said, I should point out that my shop, where my reloading gear is, is fairly safe from a fire. Outside the exterior walls are concrete board, then 1/2" OSB, the walls are 2x6 construction, there is 5 1/2" of insulation, then another 1/2 layer of OSB and then 1/2 of dry wall. It supersedes the fire code by 100%. The floor is a garage floor, concrete, and in the off chance that you did get the structure stated to burn it would be self extinguishing for a lack of air. I built it tight and well insulated so I could heat it and cool it with a heat pump. I do have fire extinguishers placed in the shop but the only thing that could burn is my wooden benches. The powder is kept in a 1 1/2" thick walled magazine that will withstand 1800F for two hours before the inside gets hot enough to ignite the powder. My primers are kept in a smaller version of the same magazine. The walls are made of 5/8" cement board, 1/2" dry wall, 5/8" OSB and another layer of 1/2" drywall. I suppose I could add a layer of carbon-carbon heat shield but I doubt that I will need more than I have now. It exceeds the required resistance by 200% of code. I figure that is probably good enough.


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## CourtSwagger (Jan 3, 2013)

Para quack/Salty - I am afraid that I must respectfully disagree. Ammo will not blow up in a fire. I know because I read it on the Internet. As we all know, if they put it on the internet, it must be true. Please cease and desist with all of your special effects wizardry in a futile attempt to bolster your ridiculous argument. Thanks.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

That's your first strike, the next one gets you the ignore button. No three strikes $hit around here.
The problem is that someone might just take you seriously if they haven't read all the posts.
Like Sarkus

PaulS, the bullet/case fragments that stuck in the sheet rock in the video above sure would make me run like hell. But I was only a paramedic/hose puller and didn't wear any turnout gear.


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## whoppo (Nov 9, 2012)

Between my wife and I, we shoot a lot of 5.56, so for years we've been buy one or two cans of lake city M855 per month. I comes 420rds on 10 rd stripper clips in a shiny new 30cal mil spec ammo can. loaded up to the rim, they're still light enough to carry without the eventual need for a truss and since they're new the seal is tight and dry. It got to the point where we had run out of space to store the empty cans so I threw a pile of them in the truck and brought 'em to the local mil surplus store where the owner was tickled to give me $10 each for them and begged for more.


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## haydukeprepper (Apr 28, 2013)

HuntingHawk said:


> Smaller ammo cans are actually better unless you like getting a hernia.


Yeah, I know the feeling!


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## Notsoyoung (Dec 2, 2013)

I have ammo stored in cans of various sizes including one for 25mm rounds. I find them great for STORAGE. If it comes to the point where I have to take off, I will throw what I can carry in my ruck. I think that they are great for that purpose, and for that matter, many others. I do dump come rice in the bottom of them before I put in the ammo in order to absorb moisture, and in an emergency I could eat the rice to go with whatever I shoot to eat with the ammo. I had some rounds that had been stored in this manner for over 40 years that I had left at my folks' home when I joined the Army, forgot about, and was rediscovered in my folks basement last year. I fired all of it without a single misfire or any noticeable deterioration in performance.


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