# Want to get started reloading. Starting with a tumbler.



## Nyet (Jul 28, 2014)

I've been researching loads and stuff for a while now, and I want to get started reloading soon. I figured since I've been saving up brass I would start with a tumbler and get my stuff all nice and clean before moving onto a get the press. That will happen when I have more time and money. I plan on starting with 9mm NATO and 5.56 NATO. Here are a couple of the one's I have been looking at. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with them. I will be reading reviews as well.

Frankford Arsenal EZ Ultrasonic Case Cleaner 110 Volt ... _ci_google

http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal ... ng+tumbler

http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Turbo-Tumbl ... ng+tumbler

Hornady Lock-N-Load Sonic Cleaner Ultrasonic Case Cleaner 110 Volt

I am kind of leaning towards one of the ultrasonic ones that use water rather than media, it seems like it would be easier to clean up and would nullify the need for a separator. The less equipment on my bench the better. I'm just not sure about the sonic tumblers' effectiveness. Eventually I'll be buying a second one of them to speed the process of long range days and to have a back up. Anyway, let me know!


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## Tennessee (Feb 1, 2014)

Nyet said:


> I've been researching loads and stuff for a while now, and I want to get started reloading soon. I figured since I've been saving up brass I would start with a tumbler and get my stuff all nice and clean before moving onto a get the press. That will happen when I have more time and money. I plan on starting with 9mm NATO and 5.56 NATO. Here are a couple of the one's I have been looking at. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with them. I will be reading reviews as well.
> 
> Frankford Arsenal EZ Ultrasonic Case Cleaner 110 Volt ... _ci_google
> 
> ...


When my Lyman turbo wore out I got the Frankford tumbler. Seems to work just a good as the Lyman for half the price. Time will tell the Lyman lasted over 20 years. Just owned the Frankford for 6 months. Can't help you on the wet cleaners. Never used one.


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## just mike (Jun 25, 2014)

Welcome to the reloading world. At present I am using a Berrys 400 which is very similar to the Frankford Arsenal tumbler. With corncob media it does a very good job. Load it up, turn it on and 4 hours later separate the brass from the media and it looks like new. I have a couple of friends who have the sonic cleaners and they work ok , they just do not seem to clean quite as well. That's their opinion not mine. My tumbler stays in the garage so I do not loose space in the reloading area. I am sure you will get other opinions about what you should use but in the end it all depends on YOUR opinion and what you want and how you want to do things.

You are on the correct path if you keep on researching. Find out all you can before you spend your hard earned money. I have been reloading since the 70's
and I find it a relaxing way to spend an evening. Do it right and you will save money in the long run and you can make ALL of your weapons more accurate by customizing loads for each. Do it wrong and you can destroy a fine weapon (seen it happen).


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

I use both a tumbler to polish the brass and the ultrasonic cleaner to Clean the brass OUT. Got tired of blowing the liquid cleaner out of the shell cases after depriming and ultrasonic cleaning. So I built this.
View attachment 6909

It's a bed of nails, long enough for my longest shell case. Nails are space about 1 inch apart. I drilled the holes undersized first and then pounded the nails in.


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## bigwheel (Sep 22, 2014)

Sound like you are working backwards in the reloading hobby. Get a grip. lol.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

Nyet said:


> I've been researching loads and stuff for a while now, and I want to get started reloading soon. I figured since I've been saving up brass I would start with a tumbler and get my stuff all nice and clean before moving onto a get the press. That will happen when I have more time and money. I plan on starting with 9mm NATO and 5.56 NATO. Here are a couple of the one's I have been looking at. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with them. I will be reading reviews as well.
> 
> Frankford Arsenal EZ Ultrasonic Case Cleaner 110 Volt ... _ci_google
> 
> ...


I would go with the ultrasonic cleaner and not necessarily one made for cases. You can clean LOTS of different things with them. The bigger you get the more things will fit in it (carburetors , gun parts, machine parts, etc....).

For brass you can make your own cleaner with water, vinegar, and detergent. Rinse a few times with distilled water then throw them in the oven on low heat to dry. You might want to deprime first so the primer pockets get cleaned out too before sizing.


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## jimb1972 (Nov 12, 2012)

I have been using a Frankford Arsenal tumbler for about 8-10 years now with no problems.


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## Chipper (Dec 22, 2012)

Thumlers Tumbler, use stainless bearings for media with a little water, dish soap and lemi shine. One purchase for the rest of your life. Brass is like new in a couple hours. Even cleans primer pockets like new.


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## bigwheel (Sep 22, 2014)

ok..I was into the reloading hobby for years and never had no steenken tumbler. What are yall smoking?


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

Nothin', I use smokeless powder.


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## Ralph Rotten (Jun 25, 2014)

For brass going into long term storage it is best to deprime before polishing. But a lott guys dont like running dirty brass thru their dies, so you may consider a universal deprimer. It doesnt resize, just deprime. Any scored carbon deposits left may weaken the case thru corrosion after a few years of storage. Plan on long term storage for everything because you never know how long itll be in there. I have brass so old some of it still has Nazi headstamps. Someday ill reload that brass. 

Store in a coffee can with a fresh dessicant packet, and itll be good for generations. 

Look at midwayusa.com for tumblers n media. I never waste my money on polish, just walnut over corncob media (brass polish is for posers n competitive shooters.)


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## shootbrownelk (Jul 9, 2014)

paraquack said:


> I use both a tumbler to polish the brass and the ultrasonic cleaner to Clean the brass OUT. Got tired of blowing the liquid cleaner out of the shell cases after depriming and ultrasonic cleaning. So I built this.
> View attachment 6909
> 
> It's a bed of nails, long enough for my longest shell case. Nails are space about 1 inch apart. I drilled the holes undersized first and then pounded the nails in.


 So you don't deprime first? Looks like the 2 empties have spent primers in them, did you use them just for illustration?


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

Correct. Just for illustration. 
I run them thru the sonic cleaner before inspection and depriming. Trying to remove a stuck case from a resizing die is a pain in the A$$. Maybe a bit anal, but after resizing and tumbling, trimming, touching up the primer pocket (love the Lyman Case Prep Xpress Case Prep Center), I put them thru the sonic cleaner once again. Only takes a few minutes, and I know the gunk inside is gone, even the primer pocket is damn clean. In AZ the cases dry out very fast, fortunately. One other thing I was taught, was to separate cases by mfr, and even lot if possible. If I had it to do all over again, I would have bought a bigger sonic cleaner big enough to put other things thru it.


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## Sarkus (Sep 11, 2014)

Just to be clear, a tumbler is the last thing you "need" to reload. Mainly because you don't need it at all. Its nice, sure, but there are very inexpensive and easy ways to get your brass clean enough for reloading.


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## PossumPie (Oct 2, 2014)

I've never used a tumbler. I wire brush the inside, if it is uber-dirty outside I wipe it down and then lube it...never had a problem, but my brass doesn't twinkle in the sunlight!!!


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

Oh my God, you put that dirty brass into that beautiful, clean firearm? Sorry, I'm a clean freak when it comes to reloading.


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## PossumPie (Oct 2, 2014)

paraquack said:


> Oh my God, you put that dirty brass into that beautiful, clean firearm? Sorry, I'm a clean freak when it comes to reloading.


Never had a problem. Anyway, I've got to clean the firearm after I shoot whether the brass is clean or not. I get tighter groups with reloads, and less jams than factory loads so I never bothered with extra brass cleaning. Of course if it were muddy, or crusty I would clean an individual case...I've got some 30-30 that I've resized and reloaded 8 times, I'll have to throw them out b/c of thin necks after so many resizes before I've ever felt like they needed tumbling.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

I have used a Thumbler's Tumbler since I got my first press - an RCBS Rockcrusher and It works great for me. I buy a 10 pound bag of walnut every ten years or so - the last one (at the local feed and grain store) cost $2. 

That means in the last 40+ years I have pent less than $10 on media. I have never had to wait for my brass to dry and never had to mix a cleaning solution to clean my brass.


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## bamacrazy (Apr 9, 2013)

Sarkus said:


> Just to be clear, a tumbler is the last thing you "need" to reload. Mainly because you don't need it at all. Its nice, sure, but there are very inexpensive and easy ways to get your brass clean enough for reloading.


I've been looking into getting started reloading too. Does anyone have any recommendations on the basic stuff you need to start out? I've seen those small hand loaders that are cartridge specific. Is it cheaper to start with a single stage? Is the Lee press any good or would I be better off with the Rockchucker? Are the dies interchangeable between brands? Ex, can you use Lee Dies with a RCBS press? Sorry if I'm high jacking...


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

RCBS has several starter kits - Back in the 70's I bought the Rockchucker. It still works great and I will likely end up passing it down to my grandkids or great grand kids.

In addition to the kit you will eventually need a set of calipers - the six inch dial caliper will be fine. You will need a trimmer to trim the cases when they grow, and you will likely need a primer pocket reamer for those crimped primers.

From then on it is bullets, primers and powder.


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## bamacrazy (Apr 9, 2013)

PaulS said:


> RCBS has several starter kits - Back in the 70's I bought the Rockchucker. It still works great and I will likely end up passing it down to my grandkids or great grand kids.
> 
> In addition to the kit you will eventually need a set of calipers - the six inch dial caliper will be fine. You will need a trimmer to trim the cases when they grow, and you will likely need a primer pocket reamer for those crimped primers.
> 
> From then on it is bullets, primers and powder.


Thanks! Great info!


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## jimb1972 (Nov 12, 2012)

bamacrazy said:


> I've been looking into getting started reloading too. Does anyone have any recommendations on the basic stuff you need to start out? I've seen those small hand loaders that are cartridge specific. Is it cheaper to start with a single stage? Is the Lee press any good or would I be better off with the Rockchucker? Are the dies interchangeable between brands? Ex, can you use Lee Dies with a RCBS press? Sorry if I'm high jacking...


Almost all dies are interchangeable, I use a lot of LEE dies in my hornady and Pacific presses. I would not hesitate to use a LEE single stage press, but I have heard of problems with their progressive presses. I have no experience with the LEE progressives personally. I would consider a Dillon press, but they are one of the exceptions to the dies being interchangeable, Lyman used to make some 5/8 diameter dies, 7/8 is the standard that most dies are.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

Reloading is another reason I pursue commonality of calibers. While powder is pretty well interchangeable among the pistol caliber I have, the rifle powders in my book don't match. Anyone had any reliable results with using a rifle powder in pistol cartridge reloading. I haven't seen pistol powder in so long, it's like looking for .22LR


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## Dalarast (May 16, 2014)

Soooooo..... the wife is either getting my reloading kit for me for our 10 year anniversary (brass is like tin... right) but since I'm not there to guide her through it.... I am reaching out to you fellas!

So PaulS comment and support for the RCBS and many others around Lee show two great companies. My quest is to find the best all-in-one kit for a start-up reloading kit with little add-on equipment. I know I will have to buy a tumbler and various odds and ends; but trying to get the most bang for my buck; but also want to make sure the wife is not paying for a kit that half the items are useless or not needed.... soooo any recommendations on a kit?

Some ideas I'm looking at....

Amazon.com : ATK/RCBS 9287 Explorer Plus : Hunting Accessories : Sports & Outdoors
Amazon.com : RCBS Turret Deluxe Reloading Kit : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors
http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision..._sbs_sg_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=08VG11JYYZT35FJGMZFA

Ideas?


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## Sarkus (Sep 11, 2014)

Upfront, I have not been reloading for long. But when I was researching what to get, I watched videos of the process on YouTube where people were using single stage presses and having no issues producing 50 rounds an hour. That seemed to me then and now to be more than fast enough. I didn't look at turrets after that and ended up grabbing one of the Lee kits that run about $110. I added a few extras - digital scale and digital calipers - and have found that to be enough to get started. I even considered the hand press Lee has, because if SHTF happens that will be a lot more portable.


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## PossumPie (Oct 2, 2014)

paraquack said:


> Reloading is another reason I pursue commonality of calibers. While powder is pretty well interchangeable among the pistol caliber I have, the rifle powders in my book don't match. Anyone had any reliable results with using a rifle powder in pistol cartridge reloading. I haven't seen pistol powder in so long, it's like looking for .22LR


Just to be clear...Powder is something you do NOT want to experiment with. Some burn hot and fast, some slower. I'm a cheapskate and buy a lot of my stuff used, but I shelled out the money to buy the Lyman 48th edition reloading book and I follow the recommendations in it for type/amt. or powder very closely. My local firearms dealer gets his shipments in the same day every week. I call him 7am and ask for specific Pistol powders. I got a few pounds that way. No matter how desperate you get, substituting a slow rifle powder for a fast hot pistol powder is not a good idea.


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## Smokin04 (Jan 29, 2014)

Ask any one of us what to get first, and how to get started reloading and you'll get different answers from everyone. I unfortunately will be no different. 

I tumble ALL my brass for about 4-5 hours in a corncob media with some brass polish. Comes out looking like jewlery. Polishing does help identify weak areas in the brass, so I consider it mandatory. Also, I MEASURE ALL my brass first, before polishing. That way I can weed out the cases that I know wont work in my rifle. I discard them (or give them to a buddy with a bolt gun). After I measure and see that they're dimensionally sound, I will trim them (if needed) then tumble and begin the reloading process. This ensures all my brass coming out of the tumbler is good to go in my rifle. Case prep makes or breaks your reloading experience in my opinion. If you take the extra time in that step, your reloads will work better for you. I consider the mandatory starting equipment to be:
1) Calipers
1) Reloading manuals (as many as you can afford)
1) Press and appropriate dyes
2) ACCURATE powder measure (if not equipped with press)
3) Primer tool (if not equipped with press)
4) Deburring/primer pocket reamer (for NATO rounds with crimped primers)
5) Tumbler

Notice that I have 3 number 1's? This is on purpose because if you don't have all 3 of those things, you can't even begin to reload effectively. Good luck.


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## PossumPie (Oct 2, 2014)

Smokin04 said:


> Ask any one of us what to get first, and how to get started reloading and you'll get different answers from everyone. I unfortunately will be no different.
> 
> I tumble ALL my brass for about 4-5 hours in a corncob media with some brass polish. Comes out looking like jewlery. Polishing does help identify weak areas in the brass, so I consider it mandatory. Also, I MEASURE ALL my brass first, before polishing. That way I can weed out the cases that I know wont work in my rifle. I discard them (or give them to a buddy with a bolt gun). After I measure and see that they're dimensionally sound, I will trim them (if needed) then tumble and begin the reloading process. This ensures all my brass coming out of the tumbler is good to go in my rifle. Case prep makes or breaks your reloading experience in my opinion. If you take the extra time in that step, your reloads will work better for you. I consider the mandatory starting equipment to be:
> 1) Calipers
> ...


I don't tumble but I DO inspect each case for fractures, shoulder weaknesses, or with my .40 a "Glock bulge" Like I said, maybe I'm lucky but I never had problems from not tumbling.
I'd add one more thing to your list, A manual trimmer for rifle cases. The necks tend to lengthen and thin out after time.


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## Tennessee (Feb 1, 2014)

PaulS said:


> In addition to the kit you will eventually need a set of calipers - the six inch dial caliper will be fine.


Calipers or ok to have but I would put my money into a case gage. A lot more faster to weed out the bad ones and just as accurate if not more depending on your abilities.


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## Smokin04 (Jan 29, 2014)

Tennessee said:


> Calipers or ok to have but I would put my money into a case gage. A lot more faster to weed out the bad ones and just as accurate if not more depending on your abilities.


I agree to an extent. I have a .223 case gauge, and every piece of brass I have fits effortlessly into the gauge. Doing what it's supposed to right? The only problem is, even though they fit in the gauge, not every piece fits into my rifle. So unfortunately, the case gauge is not an option for me when loading .223.


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## Tennessee (Feb 1, 2014)

Smokin04 said:


> I agree to an extent. I have a .223 case gauge, and every piece of brass I have fits effortlessly into the gauge. Doing what it's supposed to right? The only problem is, even though they fit in the gauge, not every piece fits into my rifle. So unfortunately, the case gauge is not an option for me when loading .223.


There is either something wrong with your rifle or case gage. Like you I check ever piece of brass with my Dillon case gage. Never had a problem with any round that has passed the case gage test. And I have several brands of ARs, HK and ARs. ARE you making sure the case head is below the rim of the case gage. If the head sticks out just a few thousands above the rim, that will cause a jam.


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## Stick (Sep 29, 2014)

I tumble, too, in Lizard Litter, available at pet shops. For a long time I'd tie brass up in a sock and toss it in the washer, followed by drier, with other clothes to minimize battering. Worked OK for small amounts, then I got to doing a lot of shooting...Lee Loader was no good, the wife got annoyed by the whack a mole aspect of it, and dents in the coffee table. Rockchucker was next, and I still use it forty years later. The Dillon RL550B was heaven...4-500 rounds an hour, this Rube Goldberg contraption, noisy, creaky, but it does turn out great ammo. Cheap. Lots and lots of it. Buckets full. These days, I've slowed down a lot, and I have come to appreciate the Lee hand press for kicked back case prep. Great fan of spray on lube and carbide dies. As others have mentioned, though, I would recommend first money spent be for a manual. With study you come to see the relationships between various powders, bullet weights, and published velocity figures. It's just physics and chemistry, and metallurgy, and history, and all that cool stuff you never learned in school. I didn't anyway. Knowledge equals informed choices.


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## Smokin04 (Jan 29, 2014)

Tennessee said:


> There is either something wrong with your rifle or case gage. Like you I check ever piece of brass with my Dillon case gage. Never had a problem with any round that has passed the case gage test. And I have several brands of ARs, HK and ARs. ARE you making sure the case head is below the rim of the case gage. If the head sticks out just a few thousands above the rim, that will cause a jam.


I also have a Dillon case gauge. My malunctions are caused by brass with .002-.006" variations in the neck and shaft of various brass. I've used dye-chem on entire rounds (that were malfunctioning) and measured the dimensions at the interference marks. They were all out of spec at that exact point. But all of them would feed effortlessly into the case gauge. All of the off dimensions are either in the neck, or the main body of the brass. With the necks too big, the round fails to seat during feeding. When the shaft is too big, it fails to extract. As I said, I just discard these pieces now that I know what to look for.


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## Tennessee (Feb 1, 2014)

I'm not sure I understand what you are telling me. You might want to try an adjustable case gage to ensure that you match your rifle.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

I would have a fortune invested if I had bought one of those case gauges for every caliber I reloaded. A pair of dial calipers can get you more information than that case gauge and it works for anything shorter than 6 inches.


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## jimb1972 (Nov 12, 2012)

If I were to recommend a press to someone just starting out I would recommend a turret press like the old Lyman Spar-T. You are only performing one action at a time so there is less chance of mishap, but all the dies can be set up at the same time so it is quicker than a single stage by far. I started off with one single stage press, moved on to three single stage presses (still not as fast as a turret) and wound up with a progressive eventually. Pistol brass does not seem to grow longer like rifle brass, I hardly ever trim pistol brass and I have never owned a case gauge just calipers.


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## Smokin04 (Jan 29, 2014)

PaulS said:


> I would have a fortune invested if I had bought one of those case gauges for every caliber I reloaded. A pair of dial calipers can get you more information than that case gauge and it works for anything shorter than 6 inches.


I agree with Paul on this. The case gauges are great to get you in the ball park. Only extremely damaged or out of spec brass wont fit. My chamber shows that anything >.002" clearance wont feed. Guess I must ensure that I re-use ONLY my brass.


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## Dalarast (May 16, 2014)

So to keep this thread going and kinda stearing it back to "what to start with". Whats the best book out there for reloading? From step by step to data for reloading data?


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## Tennessee (Feb 1, 2014)

PaulS said:


> I would have a fortune invested if I had bought one of those case gauges for every caliber I reloaded. A pair of dial calipers can get you more information than that case gauge and it works for anything shorter than 6 inches.


All my reloads are use at the range and for self-defense. So I need to make sure that all my reloads will work, my life may depend on it. I have never had a jam or a miss feed with my reloads. I check every case with a case gage and I reload by the thousands not by the box. If I had to check every round with a dial caliper it would take me forever. I have been a Mechanical Engineer for over 35 years and I know how to use a dial caliper. I can guarantee you I can get more information about a case in 1 second using a case gage then yon can in several minutes with a dial caliper.



Smokin04 said:


> I agree with Paul on this. The case gauges are great to get you in the ball park. Only extremely damaged or out of spec brass wont fit. My chamber shows that anything >.002" clearance wont feed. Guess I must ensure that I re-use ONLY my brass.


A case gauge is essentially a 'factory spec chamber' in a piece of steel with a hi/low limit step at the base to check headspace of your brass (checking from a datum point on the shoulder to the base of the case head), as well as a hi/low limit step at the case mouth to determine proper trim length. If a case fits correctly in a case gage it should be close to factory setting for that caliber. So if your weapon will not shoot a round that correctly fits in a case gage. You need to get a different weapon.


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## jimb1972 (Nov 12, 2012)

Dalarast said:


> So to keep this thread going and kinda stearing it back to "what to start with". Whats the best book out there for reloading? From step by step to data for reloading data?


I like the LEE manual for beginners, but all of them have basic reloading instructions. I use LEE, Hornady, Lyman, and Sierra manuals. I also use the Hodgdon reloading data center website pretty extensively, and the Alliant site has data as well. I print off all the data for the calibers I load and keep them in a three ring binder next to my manuals. (got to have a hard copy, data on the computer is too vulnerable for my taste)


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

Same as jimb1972. One book will cover powders not found in another.


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## Smokin04 (Jan 29, 2014)

Tennessee said:


> All my reloads are use at the range and for self-defense. So I need to make sure that all my reloads will work, my life may depend on it. I have never had a jam or a miss feed with my reloads. I check every case with a case gage and I reload by the thousands not by the box. If I had to check every round with a dial caliper it would take me forever. I have been a Mechanical Engineer for over 35 years and I know how to use a dial caliper. I can guarantee you I can get more information about a case in 1 second using a case gage then yon can in several minutes with a dial caliper.
> 
> A case gauge is essentially a 'factory spec chamber' in a piece of steel with a hi/low limit step at the base to check headspace of your brass (checking from a datum point on the shoulder to the base of the case head), as well as a hi/low limit step at the case mouth to determine proper trim length. If a case fits correctly in a case gage it should be close to factory setting for that caliber. So if your weapon will not shoot a round that correctly fits in a case gage. You need to get a different weapon.


Well man, if you trust a case gauge over calipers and dimensions...more power to ya. I can only reiterate that I have used my Dillon case gauge...and not all rounds that fit in the gauge, fit in my rifle. It is what it is...the fact that your stuff works is awesome. The fact that mine does not is not a problem with my weapon. And FWIW, if you measure the case gauge you will find that is does NOT mirror the dimesions of FACTORY ammo. Just sayin'...


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## PossumPie (Oct 2, 2014)

Lymans reloading handbook and The ABC's of Reloading are what I have...They are great. If you can't afford them, ALL of the information is availible FREE online, especially powder info on each manufacturers website. They actually give MORE info for different charges of each caliber then the books. 

As for the whole case gauge debate, I don't own any. I see it as a nuisance b/c I check my cases with a calipers anyway. I know my 30 30 is picky about which cases it will jamb on and I just don't want some other equipment cluttering up my work area. 

You can get by with one "Lee quick loader", a scale, primer, bullets, and powder. PERIOD....OR you could invest thousands in equipment like a progressive loader, a digital scale, case mouth trimmers for EACH caliber a case powder charger, a separate primer, primer pocket cleaners, a 3 stage carbide die set FOR EACH caliber, a separate crimper for EACH caliber, a calipers, a bullet puller, case lube, case brushes, bullets, primer, powder, an ultrasonic cleaner, etc, etc. Just do it safely, and check your groupings to see if you are satisfied. 

If you are not rich, I'd suggest a single stage press Lyman is good but any will work (make sure it has a built in de-primer), a 2 die set (Not carbide) a jar or spray case lube, Lee or RCBS both are fine BUT make sure they come with "case holders" an inexpensive manual scale that is marked in grains NOT milligrams, and calibers. That will get you started for under $200


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## Tennessee (Feb 1, 2014)

Smokin04 said:


> Well man, if you trust a case gauge over calipers and dimensions...more power to ya. I can only reiterate that I have used my Dillon case gauge...and not all rounds that fit in the gauge, fit in my rifle. It is what it is...the fact that your stuff works is awesome. The fact that mine does not is not a problem with my weapon. And FWIW, if you measure the case gauge you will find that is does NOT mirror the dimesions of FACTORY ammo. Just sayin'...


Hey if you ever use that weapon in self-defense and it goes click or jams. Don't say Old Tennessee didn't try to help you. Good luck


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## Smokin04 (Jan 29, 2014)

Tennessee said:


> Hey if you ever use that weapon in self-defense and it goes click or jams. Don't say Old Tennessee didn't try to help you. Good luck


This is why I test my ammo before I shoot it. But thank you for your words.


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## PossumPie (Oct 2, 2014)

Jams/misfires are random. I've had factory rounds jam my AR 15 and I've had factory rounds misfire. I've had a reload misfire (I sunk the primer too deep) 
If you are using your weapon for life-or-death situation, the only sure thing is a backup weapon.


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## Tennessee (Feb 1, 2014)

PossumPie said:


> Jams/misfires are random.I've had factory rounds jam my AR 15 and I've had factory rounds misfire. I've had a reload misfire (I sunk the primer too deep) If you are using your weapon for life-or-death situation, the only sure thing is a backup weapon.


PP I can't speak for factory rounds since I don't use them. But I have shot thousands of rounds of my reloads through my ARs and Pistols and I have not had a jam or misfire. If you keep your weapons maintained and clean and your ammo in specification those random misfire and jams go away. Also it pays to have a good weapon to start with. I know some ARs will jam just by looking at them. The finicky type of weapons are the ones that I choose not to own. In a SHTF situation it's going to be hard to find ammo for them.

And as far as the backup weapon, if you sinking primers too deep, then that may not be a sure thing.


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## PossumPie (Oct 2, 2014)

Tennessee said:


> PP I can't speak for factory rounds since I don't use them. But I have shot thousands of rounds of my reloads through my ARs and Pistols and I have not had a jam or misfire. If you keep your weapons maintained and clean and your ammo in specification those random misfire and jams go away. Also it pays to have a good weapon to start with. I know some ARs will jam just by looking at them. The finicky type of weapons are the ones that I choose not to own. In a SHTF situation it's going to be hard to find ammo for them.
> 
> And as far as the backup weapon, if you sinking primers too deep, then that may not be a sure thing.


I have a Bushmaster AR...not the best but I like it. When I was just starting out, I sank some primers too deep, I learned my lesson quickly. That is the key to reloads, learn from your mistakes before you blow your arm off! :-o


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## Dalarast (May 16, 2014)

So I went ahead and pushed the idea of the Lee Precision Classic Turret Press to my wife. I chose this because I can disable the "turret" and make it a single stage press as I learn on it; but if I decide to go to a turret press later on I just "re-enable" the turret.

http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision..._sbs_sg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1HN7CFTW06K34N7M3N4N

Now it will be a project on finding other bits and pieces as you guys recommened and send it home.  Plan to be smoking a beef brisket, making two batches of beer, and reloading some ammo when I return home..... 

Problably will be adding this next unless I find a better "accessory" setup: Amazon.com : SmartReloader S.B.P. Reloading Kit : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors


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## PossumPie (Oct 2, 2014)

Dalarast said:


> So I went ahead and pushed the idea of the Lee Precision Classic Turret Press to my wife. I chose this because I can disable the "turret" and make it a single stage press as I learn on it; but if I decide to go to a turret press later on I just "re-enable" the turret.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Lee-Precision..._sbs_sg_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1HN7CFTW06K34N7M3N4N
> 
> ...


Good luck! I find reloading a relaxing hobby, and even my first attempts had tighter groups than factory ammo. Loving care goes into each one as opposed to some assembly line pumping them out. Plus, if you stock up on Primers, bullets and powder, no two-bit liberal prez can corner the market on ammo and keep it from you!

Smoke a brisket? Do you have a smoker? I have a smokehouse about the size and shape of an outhouse, and have been preparing to smoke some stuff too.


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## Dalarast (May 16, 2014)

I'm pretty excited about getting I to reloading as a hobby and another step closer to self-sustainment. Between ammo prices and moves like operation choke hold I figured it is wise to make the investment. In a few months prepare for questions!

I wish I had a smoke house. I have two little smokers compared to your smoke house. A decent sized charcoal smoker and my wife got me a propane smoker last Father's Day that is sitting back home waiting for me to get home


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

No sense staring a new thread Has anyone ever seen or heard of reloading 50 cal. Currently running 5-6 dollars a round new and surplus . Not like it gets fired every often but just looking down the road.


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## Tennessee (Feb 1, 2014)

Smitty901 said:


> No sense staring a new thread Has anyone ever seen or heard of reloading 50 cal. Currently running 5-6 dollars a round new and surplus . Not like it gets fired every often but just looking down the road.


Look at Dillon BFR 50BMG Reloading Machine or RCBS 88700 AmmoMaster .50 BMG Pack


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## jimb1972 (Nov 12, 2012)

Might as well start loading .50 BMG, there is always powder on the shelf for it.


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## Ralph Rotten (Jun 25, 2014)

jimb1972 said:


> Might as well start loading .50 BMG, there is always powder on the shelf for it.


What kinda press do you use for 50 cal? Is a lyman or rcbs tall enough or do you have to be carecul to not break the lever off every time you resize?


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## adian (Oct 28, 2014)

I'm thinking of getting into reloading too. Cabelas has employee pricing for vets/mil/LEO guys for Veterans Day next month so may grab a starter kit


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## Dalarast (May 16, 2014)

adian said:


> I'm thinking of getting into reloading too. Cabelas has employee pricing for vets/mil/LEO guys for Veterans Day next month so may grab a starter kit


I wonder if my wife could use my power of attorney and orders to utilize the discount


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## Meangreen (Dec 6, 2012)

When you need bullets these guys are great. Fast free shipping and a great price.

Rocky Mountain Reloading


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