# oil lube or bearing grease to lube your rifle



## shooter (Dec 25, 2012)

What type of lube do you use for your AR AK MSR? I have always used oil from hoppes but several people have told me I should try hi temp bearing grease recantly. I was wondering what other peoples experiences are with both types.


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## Arklatex (May 24, 2014)

I use CLP on the ar and ak. No problems to date. Not the cheapest but it seems to work great.


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Hoppes and CLP primarily. Picked up a number of spray cans of Rem oil that I bought in a sale at a KMART, they are for my stores.


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## hardcore (Jan 13, 2013)

I mix.... break free, clp and 3 in 1 oil together in equal parts for cleaning and light lubricating , I use military bore cleaner for the bore, then run a lightly oiled patch thru it. I use a high temp grease for the grease points. I tend to keep my weapons on the wet side. this is on all my junk this way has served me well.


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## Camel923 (Aug 13, 2014)

I use more traditional stuff but keep some Mobile 1 synthetic oil, green clean and lithium grease for long term shtf and can not replenish my regular supplies.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

Grease that is used to lubricate bearings should never be used on a gun. Depending on the type of grease there is different metal in it to hold it together. Lithium grease - the old stand by has fibers of Lithium in it. It attracts dust and dirt from the air and the fibers hold those particles as well as the heavy oils. It becomes a grinding compound. That is why bearings are kept in sealed environments.
Each type of grease has its own binding agent and a compatible oil to make a good lubricant. Mixing lubricants is a very bad idea because when you combine two lubricants they can lose all lubricity. Mixing any silicone lubricant with any petroleum based lube will be a disaster. It becomes gummy and turns into a fluid/solid that holds dirt and requires a thorough cleaning with a solvent that works on both types of oil. (electrical contact cleaner works well)
Lithium and moly lubes do not mix well. It leads to lubrication failure and heat build up.

The best oil I have found for my guns is Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). It cleans well, lubricates, cools, penetrates and protects against corrosion - especially with aluminum parts. If you prefer a lighter oil then mix it 50/50 with kerosene. For sliding parts mix 40% Hilton's Hyper-Lube or STP oil treatment. This makes a great lube for your slide on auto-loading pistols.

For ARs I would use straight ATF because the entire area from the chamber back is continuously flooded with carbon from the burning powder and hot gases pushing the bolt back. You want to be able to clean the area easily and you don't want to use anything that will hold that grit and grind away at vital parts of your gun.


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

Hoppes #9 for the bore cleaner, Remington 10X every few sessions to remove copper from the bore.
Remoil, CLP for lubricant/preservative.
I keep wheel bearing grease out in my shop for automotive use, and I use it on the bolt roller on my M1A and the bolt lug on my M1's (Garand & Carbine), plus a tiny dab where the operating rods contact the barrel.


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## Hawaii Volcano Squad (Sep 25, 2013)

I got some breakthrough cleaner & Snake Oil Prime gun oil. Molybdenum disulfide is key ingredient (Snake Oil Prime) for high/low temperature. I am not an expert, just have one small bottle of it. Works.


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## MisterMills357 (Apr 15, 2015)

For the most part, I use Break Free, it is a wonder oil and does everything well. Hoppes is a good oil too and you can't go wrong with it.

I have applied lithium grease to the outside of my blued .45 Auto, to prevent rust: it makes a good coating for long term protection.
You can apply a very thin coating to the outside of your gun and then wipe it down good. That works great for blued guns, that you keep for quick availability.
But never for the insides, it is just toooo... heavy, and it would muck things up in a hurry.


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## csi-tech (Apr 13, 2013)

I use birchwood Casey and red gun grease on slide rails and bolt carriers. Never a hiccup out of any of my firearms.


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## shootbrownelk (Jul 9, 2014)

Mobil 1 for oil and Royal Purple grease.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

Just about anything that's Slippy


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## Chipper (Dec 22, 2012)

How about EWL?


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## Denton (Sep 18, 2012)

As RPD said, grease is only used on my M1A. Oh, and the slide groves of my 1911s.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

Chipper said:


> How about EWL?


I've got a small sample. I've been using Slippy 2000 as of late


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

I use GI issue, have so much of it why buy anything, same types have served me well since basic.

They are, PL SPECAL, PL MEDIUM, LAW, LSA and GREASE, GUN. plus some Lubriplate.

Also use issue RBC, will never run out of this, have, I think six gallons.

Grease is used on high wear points of the M1's, M14's, M1 carbines, Galil's, AK's, FAL's and MG's.

Oil applications vary by model.

I use REM OIL for quick coverage for moisture protection.


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## Denton (Sep 18, 2012)

By the way, I use Lubriplate, as suggested by TonyBen.


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

I would avoid using automatic transmission fluid on a firearm. It is not primarily a lubricant, but a hydraulic fluid. Yes, one of its secondary functions is as a lubricant, but it is full of other additives. What these additives are vary by application - this is why ATF for Ford may harm a GM, and Honda is different than those two. And so on.
Use the proper lubricant designed for the application you have.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

CLP for cleaning and lube


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

Denton said:


> By the way, I use Lubriplate, as suggested by TonyBen.


Lubriplate is excellent for high pressure useage. It was originally designed to be used on brand new engine bearings to protect them upon initial startup. It is still used for that today, although I personally use Clevite brand, it is more fluid and easier to use.Come to think of it, I've still got some out in the shop it would work great on 1911 rails, and the tracks where the bolt slides on any rifle.


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## 8301 (Nov 29, 2014)

Kroil oil for guns that get shot regularly, it's a great bore cleaner and super light oil, good for not holding dirt. Hopps #9 and Hopps oil for weapons that are only shot once a year or for when I do a full disassembly.


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## SecretPrepper (Mar 25, 2014)

Break free clp. I have basically replaced wd40 wit it aroud the house as well.


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## MI.oldguy (Apr 18, 2013)

Synthetic grease on the rails of the mini.everything else gets wallymarts best 5w20 synthetic motor oil.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

Only use grease where it is really needed (e.g. M1/M14 needs grease in a few spots). Then a rust preventive oil, sparingly, I still use LSA. Both will attract dirt and fouling/corrosives. 

Dry graphite lubes are also useful, especially in cold weather or dirty conditions. In a pinch you can take a soft graphite pencil, when you have things taken down, and hit all the wear spots with the pencil.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

rice paddy daddy said:


> Lubriplate is excellent for high pressure useage. It was originally designed to be used on brand new engine bearings to protect them upon initial startup. It is still used for that today, although I personally use Clevite brand, it is more fluid and easier to use.Come to think of it, I've still got some out in the shop it would work great on 1911 rails, and the tracks where the bolt slides on any rifle.


Never used lubriplate but it sounds a lot like GM engine oil supplement (EOS) I've used building SB chevys. The EOS is kind of thick but might work well as a grease alternative in sub zero weather.


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## Tennessee (Feb 1, 2014)

I’ve been using Hoppes , WD40 and CLP/oil from day one in cleaning all my guns and I’ve never had any problems with rust. And I live in a humid area.


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## Denton (Sep 18, 2012)

rice paddy daddy said:


> Lubriplate is excellent for high pressure useage. It was originally designed to be used on brand new engine bearings to protect them upon initial startup. It is still used for that today, although I personally use Clevite brand, it is more fluid and easier to use.Come to think of it, I've still got some out in the shop it would work great on 1911 rails, and the tracks where the bolt slides on any rifle.


*Denton writes Clevite on back of hand with permanent marker so he doesn't forget*


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

Denton said:


> *Denton writes Clevite on back of hand with permanent marker so he doesn't forget*


Clevite makes the best engine bearings available. So, I figured their bearing assembly lube would be the best also. However, I have used NAPA's house brand as well. That would be excellent for a firearm. The bottles are small, maybe 4 or 5 liquid ounces, but one will last you a looooong time.
Even though I don't use much out of a bottle when building an engine, I do so rarely enough that I buy a brand new bottle, just in case. I mean, if I'm putting $1,000+ into a rebuild (parts & machine work) why risk using contaminated lube at $5 a bottle?


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

I keep it simple.
Rem Oil or Hoppes.
If I need to come up with something post-SHTF, it will likely be a trial and error adventure.
So many things come to mind, but likely aren't designed to be used in a firearm, and would do more harm than good.


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

Kauboy said:


> I keep it simple.
> Rem Oil or Hoppes.
> 
> So many things come to mind, but likely aren't designed to be used in a firearm, and would do more harm than good.


Like that guy on youtube that mixes transmission fluid, Mobile One engine oil and a bunch of other stuff to make his miracle bore cleaner/gun lube/ wood preservative? :glee:

Remoil, Hoppes #9, and the appropriate grease where the US Army Field Manual calls for it. That's enough for me as well.:77:


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## ozo (Dec 21, 2012)

The very best I have ever used..... inside and outside any gun......
Made by an old jarhead friend Midnight Rider.
Until you use it, you won't know how much you need it.
Silver Bullet Gun Oil


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## keith9365 (Apr 23, 2014)

I use Break Free CLP on my guns. They get cleaned ASAP after shooting. On my FAL I put a thin film of choke tube grease on the bolt and rails of the bolt carrier assembly. Seems to work just fine to me.


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## SGT E (Feb 25, 2015)

After taking over 10 K AK weapons over 4 tours...even some that had the barrel straightened with a sledge hammer and shot just fine...Except that little to the left or right crap...They were all over 20 K rounds and lubed with a dipstick pulled from a crankcase of the nearest truck or Toyota even if the oil hadn't been changed in 50 k and just added to when it got low. Your talking AK47 here...Tough as nails!...Some didn't have rifling left (SMOOTHBORE!!!)but the bolt and everything else was perfect!


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## Boss Dog (Feb 8, 2013)

"Gun" oils and specialty lubes cost huge in comparison to others that will also work just fine.
Mobile-1, cheap & a little dab'll do you. The bottle lasts a long, long time.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

Boss Dog said:


> "Gun" oils and specialty lubes cost huge in comparison to others that will also work just fine.
> Mobile-1, cheap & a little dab'll do you. The bottle lasts a long, long time.


My concern with motor oil is, it is supposed to trap dirt, and hold it.
That sounds fine in principle, but some of the components of a firearm don't work well when dirty oil gets between the parts.
I prefer something that lubricates, and forces dirt out instead of trapping it.


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## tbone1964 (Oct 6, 2013)

I use eds red for most every thing. Two fomulas one for cleaning one for lube... for about 5 bucks you can make a few gallons of it YMMV


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## Montana Rancher (Mar 4, 2013)

PaulS said:


> Grease that is used to lubricate bearings should never be used on a gun. Depending on the type of grease there is different metal in it to hold it together. Lithium grease - the old stand by has fibers of Lithium in it. It attracts dust and dirt from the air and the fibers hold those particles as well as the heavy oils. It becomes a grinding compound. That is why bearings are kept in sealed environments.
> Each type of grease has its own binding agent and a compatible oil to make a good lubricant. Mixing lubricants is a very bad idea because when you combine two lubricants they can lose all lubricity. Mixing any silicone lubricant with any petroleum based lube will be a disaster. It becomes gummy and turns into a fluid/solid that holds dirt and requires a thorough cleaning with a solvent that works on both types of oil. (electrical contact cleaner works well)
> Lithium and moly lubes do not mix well. It leads to lubrication failure and heat build up.
> 
> ...


I didn't read all of the post so this is what I use...

Synthetic Motor oil, super cheap and a lot higher temperature extremes than ATF. After 100 rounds ATF will be smoking, but Synthetic motor oil will be the bomb.

Talk about a super cheap solution, a quart of oil will last you for 100 years.


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## Ralph Rotten (Jun 25, 2014)

My favorite is still 3-in-1. The old sewing machine oil is actually well suited for firearms. I find most gun oils to be too runny in the AZ heat. 3-in-1 stays where you put it, even on hot days, and it is an outstanding lubricant for small machinery.


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## Seneca (Nov 16, 2012)

Breakfree CLP is okay in my book, I will also on occasion use Clenzoil and/or Balistol, except for the Berettas...for them I use Bertolli. J/K


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## Medic33 (Mar 29, 2015)

Ralph Rotten said:


> My favorite is still 3-in-1. The old sewing machine oil is actually well suited for firearms. I find most gun oils to be too runny in the AZ heat. 3-in-1 stays where you put it, even on hot days, and it is an outstanding lubricant for small machinery.


that stuff is like franks red hot sauce -I put that [email protected]# on everything.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

CLP cures over time leave a protective coat on the weapon and one that will still lube it. It also raw the contaminates out of the metal as it sit.. Motor oil may lube it fine for shoot but it never cures it hold moisture and dirt.. Heck we used 30 W oil in the M2 for firing but never for cleaning a storing it.


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## GTGallop (Nov 11, 2012)

I got turned on to M-Pro7 because they are a local (to me) company. I thought I'd give them a try and see if I could keep my dollars close to home. At the time I lived literally two miles from where they made and packaged the stuff.

I have found their LPX Oil to be FAN-EFFING-TASTIC.


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## GasholeWillie (Jul 4, 2014)

Mobil 1 synthetic or Marvel's Mystery Oil.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

Has anyone tried the chain lube for bicycles?

This IS a stretch , but it has a carrier which dries, then leaves a great lubricant. You can run a bike many miles and then just lube the chain when it starts to squeak. The chain IS DRY.

I have used it for many other things except firearms. It dries and no sticky residue, works on high friction areas well ( e.g. bike chains/sprockets).


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

All modern ATF is totally synthetic. It is extremely high temp compatible.
Chain lube that dries is a graphite lube with an aerosol carrier. the graphite is ok for locks and squeeky hinges but I don't want it anywhere close to my guns. You would be better off using paraffin wax. At least with wax you can remove it.


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## aboole71 (1 mo ago)

I've got a small sample. I've been using Slippy 2000 as of late


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