# Storing water in bulk



## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

I am gong to look at a 275 gallon IBC tote tank tomorrow and if it looks and smells OK I will buy it for bulk water storage. The guy selling them says they contained detergent originally (liquid soap)
I have a lot of experience with these big containers from my job. We receive and sell chemicals in them, so I know what I am looking for.

My question for the group is does any one have experience with these for bulk water?
if you have;
Did you treat the water before sealing the tank?
Where did you store your tank?

thanks BoF


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## Jeep (Aug 5, 2014)

If you mean the semi transparent Cubes with the cages around them, then my neighbor has a few. He put a hose in it and let it run four a day, whatever was in it got flushed out.


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## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

Jeep said:


> If you mean the semi transparent Cubes with the cages around them, then my neighbor has a few. He put a hose in it and let it run four a day, whatever was in it got flushed out.


Yup that's what I mean.


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## Jeep (Aug 5, 2014)

But he uses his for animals, and they haven't died so.....


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## Frayt (May 23, 2014)

Just mentioning, in an apocalypse scenario you would use about 2 gallons of water a day (not just for drinking, but for cleaning yourself, washing tools, dishes, cooking) so 275 gallons of water would only last you about 140 days. To be prepared for an indefinite scenario where there is no tap water you should be looking at a years supply (750 gal) of water if not more, as well as water collection/filtration systems. Final note, you should cycle any water you store about every year.


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## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

Frayt
Thanks for the advice on cycling water.
IN SHTF situation I have a stream nearby for water and would collect water from my gutters also. The tote is to have water in reserve not to live off 275 gallons.

I am looking for replies that specifically address treating before sealing and best locations for tote from other who have these. thanks


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## Chipper (Dec 22, 2012)

Couple drops of bleach and boil any water before drinking or cooking. Just to be safe.

If you have the fresh water supply, like me. Why the extra storage??


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## Jeep (Aug 5, 2014)

I have the Missouri river a half mile from me, but thats a half mile too far, maybe. So I will have a lot on hand


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## csi-tech (Apr 13, 2013)

I am sticking with the filtered pool water first then spring water/creek behind the house.


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## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

Chipper said:


> Couple drops of bleach and boil any water before drinking or cooking. Just to be safe.
> 
> If you have the fresh water supply, like me. Why the extra storage??


Cause nearby for me is 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from the house and it runs past two cow pastures, so it's not exactly fresh or close. In a SHTF scenario though it could be boiled and bleached and made safe but it will be work. Having 275 gals ready to use is insurance.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

Creek running through the farm, more ground water than we know what to do with. 
I do have a lot of experience living off water trucked in and stored. The huge bags the Army used kept Light out and were sealed.
Sand point wells will not work every where. And you can bet they break a law or two in most places. You should at least be aware of what one is and if they work in your area.
The still can also be used to make questionable water safe.


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## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

Well.... I looked at two places with totes today and they we either junk or stunk of chemicals. This may not be as easy as I thought.


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## rickkyw1720pf (Nov 17, 2012)

I like storing in 55 gal barrels that were made for storing water. 55 gal barrels are about the limit a person can man handle. The tokes are great if you have a forklift. 55 gal barrels can be easily moved out side and drained and new water replace every few years and if necessary and can be moved in a pickup truck.


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## Notsoyoung (Dec 2, 2013)

I have natural Springs near me, but I like the idea of storing water in my house so that I don't have to leave if for some reason I have to stay inside for an extended period of time.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

Since I plan to Bug In, having water in the house is a necessity. I know eventually I'll have to go out to retrieve water from someone's pool, but hopefully that'll be about 4 months in to the SHTF event and all the riff raff will be dead or left town.


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## big paul (Jul 14, 2014)

in Britain we can get large containers of anything up to 1000 gallons but because of the size of modern houses this isn't always an option, I have several blue plastic barrels 45 gallons each(they had dairy cleaning fluid in originally) we have several of these spread around the garden linked to every downpipe off the roof, I can obtain these from farms usually free of charge as the farmers have to pay to have them removed so are glad to get rid of them.


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## Boss Dog (Feb 8, 2013)

I'm posting these because someone may find it helpful (I've not read them yet) and so I can find them again later as I'm about to eradicate this cursed vista version of windows and load something else.

SANITARY CONTROL AND SURVEILLANCE OF FIELD WATER SUPPLIES
http://armypubs.army.mil/med/DR_pubs/dr_a/pdf/tbmed577.pdf

Water Supply Point Equipment and Operations
http://armypubs.army.mil/doctrine/DR_pubs/dr_a/pdf/fm10_52_1.pdf


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## bigwheel (Sep 22, 2014)

csi-tech said:


> I am sticking with the filtered pool water first then spring water/creek behind the house.


Sounds a bit like our situation. We have a small in ground gunite play pool...10 thousand gals. Currently envisioning that as a water source. Also can collect rain water off part of the asphalt roof which has a gutter. 300-400 sq. feet. Looking for suggestions on filtering. Heard Berkey brand mentioned. Have a pal who recommends Zen but havent heard many good things on the reviews. Would welcome any suggestions from all. Thanks.


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## Arklatex (May 24, 2014)

bigwheel said:


> Sounds a bit like our situation. We have a small in ground gunite play pool...10 thousand gals. Currently envisioning that as a water source. Also can collect rain water off part of the asphalt roof which has a gutter. 300-400 sq. feet. Looking for suggestions on filtering. Heard Berkey brand mentioned. Have a pal who recommends Zen but havent heard many good things on the reviews. Would welcome any suggestions from all. Thanks.


Berkey and Doulton are some of the best filters available for long term high capacity filtration.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

Someone mentioned cycling your water every year.
I could only agree with this if you have an abundance of water, from a reliable source, from which to get new water. (society functioning as it is today)
In a grid down situation, water is sacred.
H2O doesn't "go bad", it just gets bad thing in it.
Have the means and knowledge to deal with those bad things, and two year old water becomes drinkable yet again.
In a grid down situation, you should have the ability to deal with any biological infestations, but may not be able to deal with chemical ones. They are generally harder to remove.
If you believe your water to have absorbed harmful chemicals, it may do you more harm to drink it than to toss it.


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## Arklatex (May 24, 2014)

If your water is known to have chemicals in it, and you can't get another source. Look into distillation. You can make your own unit or you can buy one, but they are quite pricy.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

Arklatex said:


> If your water is known to have chemicals in it, and you can't get another source. Look into distillation. You can make your own unit or you can buy one, but they are quite pricy.


Careful there Ark, distillation doesn't mean the resulting water is always pure.
http://chemistry.about.com/b/2013/08/14/distilled-doesnt-mean-pure.htm


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## Arklatex (May 24, 2014)

Kauboy said:


> Careful there Ark, distillation doesn't mean the resulting water is always pure.
> http://chemistry.about.com/b/2013/08/14/distilled-doesnt-mean-pure.htm


Hmmm, haven't seen this before but I trust the source. Does anybody know of a better method to remove chemicals from a water source? Maybe reverse osmosis?

http://www.historyofwaterfilters.com/ro-distillation.html

Edit: changed do you to does anybody.


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Box of frogs said:


> Well.... I looked at two places with totes today and they we either junk or stunk of chemicals. This may not be as easy as I thought.


BOF,

Check out Norwesco water tanks. I've got ours hooked up to the rain catchment system. Might be a bit more than your used totes but I figure if its for water I'm willing to pay the money and get a good tank, not some used tote that had some unknown chemical in it. 

Norwesco

A pic of one of our 500 gallon tanks;
View attachment 6747


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## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

Found a clean tote and bought it tonight
A older man had had a few sitting in front of his house about three mile from my home ( talk about perfect luck).
The tote looked good inside and out and the old retired fellow looked like he could use the extra cash. Good trade for both of us.

I will triple rinse it with bleach solution this weekend and get this bad boy set up in the garage ! I am a happy dude !


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## tinkerhell (Oct 8, 2014)

I saw someone mention that he puts water in every empty jar/bottle/tube that he produces in his kitchen. At first, I thought this was way too weird and impractical.

However, I started doing this a week ago, and I have already established a 72hr kit of water. I'm planning to keep at it, but phase it out with much bigger containers. The small containers will be repurposed for food storage so my time won't be wasted.

Humble beginings....


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## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

tinkerhell said:


> I saw someone mention that he puts water in every empty jar/bottle/tube that he produces in his kitchen. At first, I thought this was way too weird and impractical.
> 
> However, I started doing this a week ago, and I have already established a 72hr kit of water. I'm planning to keep at it, but phase it out with much bigger containers. The small containers will be repurposed for food storage so my time won't be wasted.
> Humble beginings....


Be careful using milk jugs for water storage. I started out that way too but the more I read the more I found people complaining that they leak over time.


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## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

Got the tote soap and bleach cleaned inside and out. Pressure washed it for good measure then filled it up and added 4oz liquid bleach to hold down algae.

I will get some pool shock today as every recommends this is better for long term sterilization. I feel very good today that I got one of the bug ticket prepping item on my list covered.

Thank you to everyone for all your ideas and advice.


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## tinkerhell (Oct 8, 2014)

Box of frogs said:


> Be careful using milk jugs for water storage. I started out that way too but the more I read the more I found people complaining that they leak over time.


Thanks for the warning. I'll try to phase them out with pop bottles.


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## thepeartree (Aug 25, 2014)

tinkerhell said:


> Thanks for the warning. I'll try to phase them out with pop bottles.


It's true. I can vouch for it. We're changing over to 2 1/2 gallon containers originally containg water from the store.


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## Ralph Rotten (Jun 25, 2014)

Sunlight breaks down many plastics and causes PCBs to be released into the water. PCBs cause breast cancer (yes, men can get it too.)

So if you use plastic to store water then keep it out of the sun.

And id be leery about a plastic tank that held industrial soap or emulsificant. It ma have leached into the plastic.


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## tinkerhell (Oct 8, 2014)

Just a thought, if i could use the water storage to wash the laundry, that would ensure rapid rotation of water thus reducing the degree of concern for leeched chemicals etc.

(Im connected to town water)

Unfortunately, a pop bottle storage system is not practical for laundry


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## Ralph Rotten (Jun 25, 2014)

Have you considered a cistern? Add it in parralell to your current system. Do it right and it will cycle the water thru so you always have fresh water. Not very mobile, and youll wanna treat it, but you could keep a few thousand gallons on hand.


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## 7052 (Jul 1, 2014)

Box of frogs said:


> Yup that's what I mean.


I have 4 of those bad boys. I have an appointment w/ a gutter company to come and rerun the my gutters to hook into these tanks. The rest f the "plumbing" is pretty simple. Here's the device I am buying to by my flush/filter/diverter for the back of the house.
Rain Harvesting Pty DDCR99 Clean Rain Ultra Downspout Filter and Diverter - RainHarvest Systems Online Store for Rainwater Collection, Filtering and Sustainable Re-use.

For now it'll be for gardening. post-SHTF I have a Katadyn filter I'll run the water through, and most likely boil it as well.


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

Slippy said:


> BOF,
> 
> Check out Norwesco water tanks. I've got ours hooked up to the rain catchment system. Might be a bit more than your used totes but I figure if its for water I'm willing to pay the money and get a good tank, not some used tote that had some unknown chemical in it.
> 
> ...


First time seeing these, Sites FAQ says leave room for expansion in cold weather. What percentage? Like the idea of not having to store inside, but how do you thaw the water for use? Maybe I just had a brain fart, but I'm missing something.


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## SquirrelBait (Jun 6, 2014)

Arklatex said:


> If your water is known to have chemicals in it, and you can't get another source. Look into distillation. You can make your own unit or you can buy one, but they are quite pricy.


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## tinkerhell (Oct 8, 2014)

We get so much acid rain, the lawn needs lime every year. Is a rain collection system safe for me to drink from?


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## thepeartree (Aug 25, 2014)

tinkerhell said:


> We get so much acid rain, the lawn needs lime every year. Is a rain collection system safe for me to drink from?


 A suggestion is to collect some rainwater and have it tested by an outfit that does well water. That'll give you some kind of baseline.


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## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

I have really been putting a lot of thought into my post SHTF survival plan since I began hitting expiration dates on my prep cans faster than I could eat them.
I have learned so freaking much from the people on this page I am trying to take a more long range approach with emphasis on being able to replenish what I need rather than over stock what i need.
So I purchased a bulk tote I wrote about this on another thread. This gives me 275 gallons on hand at all times but getting it out of the two inch valve at the bottom with out spilling presents some issues.

So I built a fitting to convert down from 2 inches to a garden hose.














So now I can get water out by using a hose and a spray nozzle and control the flow.To replenish the tote with water I positioned it in the garage near a window so I can run a flex down spout from the gutter to the top of the tote. Every time it rains I can top it off.

During dry spells I have a bucket drip filter system made from a candle filter. So I can make trips to the creek near my house and haul water back to filter purify it.

I feel very comfortable with the water solutions, now on to food.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

SquirrelBait said:


>


Some chemicals will distill out faster than the water and it goes into bottle first.

I haven't done this yet, but I have a handy man watching for a non leaking hot water heater with other problems. I intend to plumb the inop water heater before the hot water heater in my home as a tempering tank and it will also act as a reserve supply of fresh water as it is constantly changing.


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## tinkerhell (Oct 8, 2014)

I need your opinion on this one.....

I found a guy that will sell me used IBC 275 gal container for $50 instead of the $600 they sell for new.

However, the catch is they used to contain a fertilizer product called Fiesta so the would be no good for human consumption. 

My plan would be to use them for rain water collection to water my garden. Maybe after a couple years of use, I might have the water tested to see if the chemical has leached out of the plastic enough that it is either gone or considered insignificant.

What do you think? Anyone have any experience with Fiesta?


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

Fiesta appear to be an herbicide, rather than fertilizer.
Fiesta Herbicide &#8230; DISMAL FAILURE ! - Pesticide Truths


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## thepeartree (Aug 25, 2014)

Oh, great! Another Agent Orange!


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## tinkerhell (Oct 8, 2014)

It says it is less toxic than caffeine, so it must be good.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

And I've got a bridge for sale, between the Upper and Lower Peninsulas of Michigan or will rent with option to buy.


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## thepeartree (Aug 25, 2014)

Sprinkle some on your cereal, then let us know... Been nice knowin ya.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

He might be ok, depends on the concentration. 
Why did the blonde stare at the orange juice?
It said concentrate!


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

I have a similar question myself. I had a couple 55 gallon blue barrels given to me that I was going to use as rain barrels. I just found out they had paint in them previously. I am assuming they are worthless now for drinking but would they be good for anything? Watering the garden? Chickens? Is there any way I can make use out of them now that I have them?


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## thepeartree (Aug 25, 2014)

Depends on the paint. It could be interior latex or exterior oil based. In any case you don't want them for drinking water. They can be converted into decent doghouses (hint, hint)...


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

thepeartree said:


> Depends on the paint. It could be interior latex or exterior oil based. In any case you don't want them for drinking water. They can be converted into decent doghouses (hint, hint)...


Picture?

Nevermind, I did a search. Would have to be a small to medium sized dog I'd think right?


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

Paint? Does the label say what kind. Probably ok for vegie garden. Got a flower or old plant in a pot you don't care about? Try watering it and see what happens. Personally, I'd only use the water for flushing the toilet, or give it to zombies who come to your door.


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

paraquack said:


> Paint? Does the label say what kind. Probably ok for vegie garden. Got a flower or old plant in a pot you don't care about? Try watering it and see what happens. Personally, I'd only use the water for flushing the toilet, or give it to zombies who come to your door.


No clue what kind of paint and no labels anywhere on the barrels.


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Kahlan said:


> No clue what kind of paint and no labels anywhere on the barrels.


DO NOT USE for drinking water! Should be OK for collecting water for garden but I would probably not use them, that's just me. "FREE sometimes costs more" if you know what I mean.


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

I think I'll stick with the flushing the toilets idea....


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## thepeartree (Aug 25, 2014)

Kahlan,

We don't have the dogs or the barrels any more. We just cut a reasonable hole in the top lid. The dogs were both chow mixes about the size of a black Lab, but very stocky.


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## Prepadoodle (May 28, 2013)

As far as using paint barrels to water the garden, pfffft. I think you all worry too much.

For this to be bad, a whole series of things have to happen:

1... The paint would have to contain toxic chemicals that would be released into the water in meaningful amounts.

2... These chemicals, once delivered to the garden, would have to survive all the microbes in the soil.

3.. The plant would then have to uptake these toxins and store them in meaningful amounts in the parts of the plant you will eat.

4... The toxins would have to survive cooking and be ingested.

If you are in a survival situation, I wouldn't sweat it. Your soil already contains some arsenic, which is a deadly poison. The plants mostly don't uptake it, but you do eat a little arsenic with every meal. Are you dead?

If you are really worried about it, don't use the water on your root crops like carrots, onions, or potatoes.

DISCLAIMER: If you die from listening to this advice, don't come haunt my ass, I'm not afraid of ghosts.


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## longrider (Mar 25, 2013)

I have to offer a different opinion on the milk jug leaking deal. I've had some of mine in the garden shed for 4 years now. They don't leak. Even though they've been frozen and thawed 4 years now. A couple did leak. 2 out of 30 isn't bad odds. I don't move them around, they don't get any sunlight. I have some in my store room in my house that have been there 3 years. None have leaked. They don't get sunlight either, and very minimum artificial light. They are all doing just fine. I also use 2 liter pop bottles and bottles from juice. Usually 1/2 gallon size. 

They are easily transported - even when my arms are at their weakest. If I had to, I could load a bunch in a laundry basket to haul to the car, in a bug out situation. I'm always adding to them.


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

longrider said:


> I have to offer a different opinion on the milk jug leaking deal. I've had some of mine in the garden shed for 4 years now. They don't leak. Even though they've been frozen and thawed 4 years now. A couple did leak. 2 out of 30 isn't bad odds. I don't move them around, they don't get any sunlight. I have some in my store room in my house that have been there 3 years. None have leaked. They don't get sunlight either, and very minimum artificial light. They are all doing just fine. I also use 2 liter pop bottles and bottles from juice. Usually 1/2 gallon size.
> 
> They are easily transported - even when my arms are at their weakest. If I had to, I could load a bunch in a laundry basket to haul to the car, in a bug out situation. I'm always adding to them.


I had heard not to use milk jugs for drinking water as well but I thought I had read somewhere that the plastic breaks down or something and contaminates the water. I didn't want to take any chances with our drinking water so what I did was fill them with water and label them non potable. I put them in totes in case they leak and put them out in the shed. I can fit 8 jugs per tote. The totes stack well so it's not a lot of space. I figure even if they aren't good for drinking they're good for toilets, dishes, hygiene etc. And will keep us from having to use the drinking water for those purposes. We go through way too many milk jugs in this house to just throw them out.

They also make good cones when it comes time for killing roosters.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

I looked at a milk jug in the frig & its HDPE 2 recycle code. HDPE is often downcycled into plastic lumber, truck cargo liners, trash containers, rope, piping, and toys. HDPE retains it’s strength when recycled. 
Not recycled into anything that holds food to me is an issue.


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

I can't remember which member posted this previously to give them credit but it's a handy chart. 
The milk jugs will still be ok for the purposes I listed that I'm using them for though right?


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

I posted it with the reference of 4, 5, 1, & 2 for recycling of stores be it water or dry goods. So milk containers are last on the list for use. Three other codes would be a better choice.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

I checked juice & soda bottles in my frig & both are a 1.


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## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

If you have plastic barrel that previously held paint it was a latex paint and water based.
Oil based alkyd paints come in metal containers because of the solvents used to thin them make them flammable.
At least this is my experience with paint in containers.

I would not be too overly concerned using a container than had latex in it last. I admit it is not the ideal container but latex paint is water based and actually digestible.

Box of frogs does not condone eating or drinking latex paint....


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

These are what they look like if that means anything to anybody. I can't see anything inside of them, they look clean and no paint odor but I'd still prefer not to risk it. I figure they have to be good for something though...

And I guess I'm colorblind or something because they are black not blue.


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## Prepadoodle (May 28, 2013)

Put them on Craigslist and sell them for enough to buy one you can use.


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## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

Kahlan said:


> These are what they look like if that means anything to anybody. I can't see anything inside of them, they look clean and no paint odor but I'd still prefer not to risk it. I figure they have to be good for something though...
> View attachment 7986


Kahlan do what makes you comfortable but those plastic drums have removable tops with rings that hold them in place so they should e very easy to reach inside and scrub them.
When i buy a drum or tote from some one it has to pass my nose test, if it smell like chemical i pass on it, if it doesn't I use them. You could fill them with water and let them sit for a month. If a film develops on top of the water after they have sat then you know something leached out of the plastic. If the water looks good then you should feel better about using them.


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

Box of frogs said:


> Kahlan do what makes you comfortable but those plastic drums have removable tops with rings that hold them in place so they should e very easy to reach inside and scrub them.
> When i buy a drum or tote from some one it has to pass my nose test, if it smell like chemical i pass on it, if it doesn't I use them. You could fill them with water and let them sit for a month. If a film develops on top of the water after they have sat then you know something leached out of the plastic. If the water looks good then you should feel better about using them.


Thanks, may try that. I figure if nothing else they're be good enough for the toilets or even like Prepadoodle says maybe the garden. I'll come up with some kind of use for them for sure.


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## Boss Dog (Feb 8, 2013)

The problem with milk jugs for water storage is that it's hard as hell to get *ALL* the milk residue out and can continually grow bacteria. 
I would pass on the barrels for drinking water but, should be OK for garden or washing non-food handling items. Anything you don't trust for drinking water, don't use it to wash dishes either.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

You could put stuff in freezer bags, vacseal, or mylar bags & store them in the barrels. That is what I would use them for.


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

Thanks!


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## thepeartree (Aug 25, 2014)

AFTER washing them inside. Old Chinese proverb: He who grow garden shall not have defoliant hanging around!


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## Pathwacker (Nov 18, 2014)

What is this good enough for toilets jargon? Are you on a city pipe or septic tank? If you keep flushing on a septic it overflows the raw sewage out on the lawn. A city line backs raw sewage into your home.


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

Pathwacker said:


> What is this good enough for toilets jargon? Are you on a city pipe or septic tank? If you keep flushing on a septic it overflows the raw sewage out on the lawn. A city line backs raw sewage into your home.


I'm on septic. But I was speaking more as a short term not a long term event.


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## Pathwacker (Nov 18, 2014)

In a shtf scenario, it isnot a short term event. If the sewage flows out it will turn dire. I have been through several week long power outages on a septic and seen the effluent levels creeping up.


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

Duly noted, thank you. I don't even pretend to be anywhere near prepared enough for a shtf scenario. I'm still very new and working on my stores, skills and knowledge. I was thinking more like a short term lose power due to a storm kind of event. So in your experience how long would I be able to keep the toilets flushing without risking damage to my septic and causing overflow issues? I'd prefer to keep everything as "normal" as possible as long as we could before having to go to alternative methods.


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## tinkerhell (Oct 8, 2014)

I get the feeling that I need to be schooled in sceptic. Why does a loss of power affect a septic? Do they have some form of pump or incinerator?


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## thepeartree (Aug 25, 2014)

tinkerhell said:


> I get the feeling that I need to be schooled in sceptic. Why does a loss of power affect a septic? Do they have some form of pump or incinerator?


Your guess is as good as mine. I've lived 90% of my life on septic and the only problems have been in situations where the septic tank was sized too small to handle the daily usage. Then you start filling the tank faster than the bacteria can process waste, everything flows into the drainage box and clogs the leech field with solid waste.


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

I'm confused!


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## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

tinkerhell said:


> I get the feeling that I need to be schooled in sceptic. Why does a loss of power affect a septic? Do they have some form of pump or incinerator?


Electricity has absolutely nothing to do with a septic system unless you have a pump system.
The out flowing waste goes to the tank and solids separate while the water flow on to the drain field. Bacteria break down the solids and they liquify and travel out to the drain field over time. Thus ends the septic lesson.


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## Kahlan (Sep 16, 2014)

Had to ask the husband cause I was so confused. My septic system has nothing to do with electric. He says we can flush for years and never worry. I'm still kinda confused, will have to look into this more tomorrow. I don't like not understanding how something I own works.


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## 7515 (Aug 31, 2014)

Kahlan said:


> Had to ask the husband cause I was so confused. My septic system has nothing to do with electric. He says we can flush for years and never worry. I'm still kinda confused, will have to look into this more tomorrow. I don't like not understanding how something I own works.


Gravity.... water flows downhill


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Commercial septic which is those on the grid, need electric to move the waste.

Home septic system is different. Septic tank is lower then the house so all the waste is gravity fed to the tank. At the other end of the septic tank is a drain field or two. Home septic doesn't require any electricity unless waste needs pumped up hill.

Only time since 1985 I have had trouble with my septic tank was when we had 11" of rain in 24 hours & was overcast for two days after that with alittle additional rain. The drain field got flooded. So it was flush only when needed. Plus, I have a fish/game cleaning station with double sink out in the yard. So dishes were cleaned there until the septic was working 100% again.


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## tinkerhell (Oct 8, 2014)

Thanks!

That looks like good news for Kahlan. Her septic should work well for her home until such a time that the septic system itself needs maintenance, ie interuptions in power or water won't affect her septic.

My situation is different, the sewage gravity flows to a sewage treatment plant so I should be fine with minor interuptions, however, the sewage treatment plat does require power to operate, so in an extended power loss, it is possible that the plant would be unable to keep up with the waste. I would hope the plant is able to allow the sewage to bypass the plant. However, if they can't bypass or simply choose not to, it is possible that the sewage would back up into the residential basement.

Backing up into the basement is also possible from a blockage in the neighborhood, as well. So I better check the 'backflow valve' to ensure that it is in good functioning order. Also, in the case of an extended malfunction of the sewage system, pipe would no longer be useable, I would need to prep for a grey water sink pit in my back yard, and buckets to hold and transport black water to another location. Transportation could be impossible or expensive, so I think I need to look into other options like an incinerating toilet, etc


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## thepeartree (Aug 25, 2014)

If you can afford one, the incinerating toilet is a good choice. Composting toilets can produce unpleasant odors that you can't block. I'd rather use a seat and bucket, myself. I've used that system and I know it's clean and the only odor is of the type of wood sawdust/wood chips used.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Best maintenance for a septic tank is once a year to activate some brewer's yeast & flush it down the toilet. 

tinkerhell, if you store some diesel fuel you can burn your brown water in a metal drum. Very common way of taking care of it at remote military bases.


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## thepeartree (Aug 25, 2014)

Or buy one of the commercial produts. I do every now and then if the conditions have been poor, even though we will never ever overload our tank. I just like to make sure effective bacteria are in there.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

My neighbors a few years ago had to have their drain field replaced. Cause was powder Tide detergent. Clay pellets were in that powder which clung to the gravel & eventually clogged it.


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## Moonshinedave (Mar 28, 2013)

Box of frogs said:


> Well.... I looked at two places with totes today and they we either junk or stunk of chemicals. This may not be as easy as I thought.


Have you checked out this site?
Underground Water Tanks For Sale | Cisterns


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## tinkerhell (Oct 8, 2014)

HuntingHawk said:


> tinkerhell, if you store some diesel fuel you can burn your brown water in a metal drum. Very common way of taking care of it at remote military bases.


If I had a outhouse with a pit, would removing the shelter and burning the pit be an option?


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

That was the way my father did it in the old days. Just move to a new location and bury it.


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## tinkerhell (Oct 8, 2014)

I was thinking of removing the structure. Burning the poop. Then returning the structure.


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## thepeartree (Aug 25, 2014)

Never heard of that. I would think that the contents would be too wet.


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## tinkerhell (Oct 8, 2014)

Maybe get some buckets and a map to the mayor's yard?


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