# Firewood.



## CWOLDOJAX (Sep 5, 2013)

I have found plenty of info about cutting trees and seasoning firewood. 
I have never done it myself and I have only helped cut and stake wood... never for myself.

Would you, or should I split the wood while its green or after it is seasoned, or not at all? 


I do not have an indoor fireplace all this wood would be for an outdoor fire pit.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

Splitting it would allow it to dry faster. Other than this benefit, and being smaller to carry, I can't think of a reason that would compel me to do one or the other.
Seasoned hardwood is much tougher to cut/saw/split, if that makes a difference to you.


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

I cut and split firewood most of my life since I was a child. I even cut/split/sold and delivered many a load in my youth. My sons moved out a few years ago and my back ain't what it used to be so I bought over a cord of wood recently for both my new outdoor pit and inside fireplace. I've done stacked all of this wood in the last few weeks ( below ) and it was a damn bear. But get them stacked up so that they have good air circulation around them.

But to your point, cut and split it when you can, the split pieces will dry and season quicker than in log form and often in log form if there are some rotten spots you can lose a lot more. Good luck!

View attachment 11408


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## sideKahr (Oct 15, 2014)

Keep some full logs, they burn slower and require less attention while drinking.


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## Stick (Sep 29, 2014)

I think green wood splits easier due to the moisture providing a kind of lubricant as fibers rend. Some dry wood pops right open, however, with the correct smack of a maul. Aim for the check cracks in dry wood. On the other hand, I recall some large Ponderosa pine rounds (4+ feet diameter) that just sucked up mauls and wedges when green, water spraying out. Had to dry for a season or two before those would come apart from the efforts of one guy working alone. Cedar of the same size would pop right open. On big chunks like that, start around the edges and chip off pieces, rather than try to bust it in half and quarters and so on. Larch is real easy to split, very straight grained, and burns as well as oak. Oak will split easy, too, just save the knotty stuff for all night coals. I remember as a kid watching my dad try to make a piece of knotty old walnut (that would have made great gun stocks) small enough to fit in the fireplace. Plum wore hisself out. I vowed then to never be the kind of person who can't split a knot or make a fire. That's most of my experience, pine, fir, larch, oak, cedar. Cottonwood leaves a huge pile of ash without much heat. Juniper burns fast. Manzanita will burn a hole in the side of your stove. 
As to your question, it depends on the kind/size of wood. If it's green, and it splits easy, split it. If it's green and it doesn't split easy, wait until it does.


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## Stick (Sep 29, 2014)

I think green wood splits easier due to the moisture providing a kind of lubricant as fibers rend. Some dry wood pops right open, however, with the correct smack of a maul. Aim for the check cracks in dry wood. On the other hand, I recall some large Ponderosa pine rounds (4+ feet diameter) that just sucked up mauls and wedges when green, water spraying out. Had to dry for a season or two before those would come apart from the efforts of one guy working alone. Cedar of the same size would pop right open. On big chunks like that, start around the edges and chip off pieces, rather than try to bust it in half and quarters and so on. Larch is real easy to split, very straight grained, and burns as well as oak. Oak will split easy, too, just save the knotty stuff for all night coals. I remember as a kid watching my dad try to make a piece of knotty old walnut (that would have made great gun stocks) small enough to fit in the fireplace. Plum wore hisself out. I vowed then to never be the kind of person who can't split a knot or make a fire. That's most of my experience, pine, fir, larch, oak, cedar. Cottonwood leaves a huge pile of ash without much heat. Juniper burns fast. Manzanita will burn a hole in the side of your stove. 
As to your question, it depends on the kind/size of wood. If it's green, and it splits easy, split it. If it's green and it doesn't split easy, wait until it does.

My apologies for the double post. Where's the goldurn delete when ya need it.


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## CWOLDOJAX (Sep 5, 2013)

Stick said:


> I think green wood splits easier due to the moisture providing a kind of lubricant as fibers rend. Some dry wood pops right open, however, with the correct smack of a maul. Aim for the check cracks in dry wood. On the other hand, I recall some large Ponderosa pine rounds (4+ feet diameter) that just sucked up mauls and wedges when green, water spraying out. Had to dry for a season or two before those would come apart from the efforts of one guy working alone. Cedar of the same size would pop right open. On big chunks like that, start around the edges and chip off pieces, rather than try to bust it in half and quarters and so on. Larch is real easy to split, very straight grained, and burns as well as oak. Oak will split easy, too, just save the knotty stuff for all night coals. I remember as a kid watching my dad try to make a piece of knotty old walnut (that would have made great gun stocks) small enough to fit in the fireplace. Plum wore hisself out. I vowed then to never be the kind of person who can't split a knot or make a fire. That's most of my experience, pine, fir, larch, oak, cedar. Cottonwood leaves a huge pile of ash without much heat. Juniper burns fast. Manzanita will burn a hole in the side of your stove.
> As to your question, it depends on the kind/size of wood. If it's green, and it splits easy, split it. If it's green and it doesn't split easy, wait until it does.


Most of mine will be these skinny pines we have in NE FL.
these pines are mostly used to make paper. I had one get hit by lightning and after the storm passed I found it leaning against my house. Single-handedly, in my 40-something man of steel stature dragged it out to the street. It was only about 30 feet tall. I am also guessing it might burn fast.

I planted, or actually relocated a couple of poplar shrubs last fall, they wintered okay. Your comment is helpful. Everyone's comments are helpful.
There's a guy selling firewood between me and the next town. I supposed I should get a cord before I start cutting my own.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

I was going to ask what you use for seasoning, salt, pepper, or what? But I decided to ask anyway. Sorry, couldn't resist.


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## Chipper (Dec 22, 2012)

Being your in FL fire wood would be a totally different deal then in WI.

Pine is not the idea wood for firewood in WI. Burns to fast and creosotes the chimney causing fires. But we are trying to heat at -20 below zero. So the amount of wood we burn will be 4-5 times what you will burn. 

You can use pine sparingly. I would cut and split the wood and cover for drying in the spring. Well away from the house to avoid pests and insects. Drying "covered" over the summer should dry the wood enough for you to burn easily. My biggest worry would be mold and rot with the humidity and rain you have down there. I'm guessing storing/drying wood for 2-3 years like we do up here won't work. Cut only what you need the year before. 

I have been cutting and burning oak firewood for 40 plus years in WI. So I hope some of this applies to FL.


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## Maine-Marine (Mar 7, 2014)

Man - I split and stacked many a cord of wood... I was a PILOT... Pile it at Grams, Pile it at home, pile it at friends

if you are going to cut down the trees yourself get a Peavey (Timber jack with log stand- available at tractor supply for under $60)






Do not use a chainsaw like he is using it... cutting back and forth and using the tip will sooner or later earn him a KICKBACK


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## Camel923 (Aug 13, 2014)

I have generally cut trees up into small manageable segments and stacked it immediately. That is what I grew up doing and I still do it. Reading the above responses/comments I now know why.


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## Medic33 (Mar 29, 2015)

wood, never can you have too much wood


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

Been cutting cordwood for many years. To give you an idea how long, we got $35 for a cord ( 4 X 4 X 8) of seasoned hardwood split and delivered.

For us the best time to split was when the wood was frozen, as the moisture exerts some force that helps in the splitting. Besides that if you got cold, you were not working hard enough. :smile:

In your case if you don't have time to split, chunk it up and stack on two long marginal (crap wood) pieces to keep it off the ground. Cover just the top. I do this with lumber covers I get for free. Stagger some of the top pieces so they stick out a few inches on either side, or save any odd long pieces for the top. That way the cover will have some overhang to keep the rain off. Do the same with your split wood. If you can get pallets to put your stacks on you can do double rows

Split wood will season faster. And if you can, make your stacks running east/west, so the sun hits the ends of the stack most of the day.

If you get good with a maul, most stuff under 20" dia can be readily split by hand. For stubborn knotty stuff have a steel wedge or two. If you have two mauls, you can use one as a wedge, especially if it gets stuck. For really big stuff have two mauls and several wedges, a 20lb sledge comes into play then also. Have done 48" trunks of hardwood like that. I have never owned a splitter.

You can also use an axe, but then you need a chopping block, and can only do the smaller pieces depending on your strength. If the axe gets stuck, lift the round with the axe with your hands opposite to the orientation you would chop with. That is as if your going pound rather than chop. Lift the round up over your shoulder using the axe and bring the back side of the axe down on the chopping block. The weight of the round coming down on the axe will split it. Make sure the round is well stuck, or it may come loose on the downstroke and conk you in the noggin.

Never try to pound on a stuck axe like you can with a stuck maul, it will ruin the axe.

My method was to chunk up, stand up the all the chunks and split in place with a maul. Then quarter by standing the splits if needed, and so on. At this point either make stacks or transport then stack. 

As I mentioned if you don't have time to split, stack and cover the chunks, either in place or after transport.

Hope this helps.


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## Stick (Sep 29, 2014)

Medic33 said:


> wood, never can you have too much wood


 And, ironically, never actually have had too much wood. Usually, barely enough.


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## topgun (Oct 2, 2013)

I learned a long time ago that if I cut and split firewood that would fit into most conventional indoor fireplaces, it was more prone to theft.

I use my wood outdoors, so I keep it about three feet long and don't split it. It doesn't get stolen at all anymore. Thieves are basically lazy, and don't want to cut and split it, they just want to steal it and burn it.


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

topgun said:


> I learned a long time ago that if I cut and split firewood that would fit into most conventional indoor fireplaces, it was more prone to theft.
> 
> I use my wood outdoors, so I keep it about three feet long and don't split it. It doesn't get stolen at all anymore. Thieves are basically lazy, and don't want to cut and split it, they just want to steal it and burn it.


Damn, I've never heard of people stealing fire wood but then again I've never really lived in an area that has real cold winters. Fire wood theft has to be the low of the low. I think I would stake a hiding place near my fire wood stack and surprise the thieves or set a Trail Camera and see if I can catch the lowlife scumbags on film.


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## topgun (Oct 2, 2013)

Slippy said:


> Damn, I've never heard of people stealing fire wood but then again I've never really lived in an area that has real cold winters. Fire wood theft has to be the low of the low. I think I would stake a hiding place near my fire wood stack and surprise the thieves or set a Trail Camera and see if I can catch the lowlife scumbags on film.


It's a reality, even in my heavily wooded BOL. The Michigan DNR even publishes a map that can be purchased for 15 bucks that shows where people can pick up free firewood, but it's usually 8 feet long. Eight feet long means WORK, so they'll rather steal your perfectly cut and split wood that fits nicely in their fireplace.

Another little trick I learned through experience is to keep stuff far from the road (at least 100 yards), and put a cable with a lock across the driveway. Thieves don't want to carry their stolen loot very far, they'll find easier pickin's elsewhere.


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## Prepared One (Nov 5, 2014)

I keep a cord so on hand. Not usually cold enough in the winters but enjoy the fireplace at times and the outdoor pit. Will be a need in grid down so I have been thinking of putting in maybe another cord or half cord. Just have to find a place for it. My wife, of course, will say I have enough. It's 
like ammo, sex, and alcohol. Can you have to much?


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

I had cut and split oak and maple for my wood stove for 35 years.
Built a 25 ton log splitter to do the splitting job.
Did five cord a year every year. Too stiff to drop trees now.
Have now switched over to propane for secondary heat.
STILL have the wood stove at the ready and three cord of wood under cover.
To answer the question, yes, better to cut and split at same time, as soon as possible after tree is felled.
The wood fibers are soft and pliable, plus the retained water acts as a lube and dust control.
You had best learn how to sharpen a saw chain RIGHT, you will need to know, the difference between 1 minuet and five minuets in the cut.
I have an Oregon chain grinding machine.
They make the best chains, bars and sharpeners out of all of them.
I won't talk saws that is like the Ford v's Chevy debate of which Jeep wins.
The last I will say is, KEEP the SAW NOSE OUT of the DIRT.


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

Slippy said:


> Damn, I've never heard of people stealing fire wood but then again I've never really lived in an area that has real cold winters. Fire wood theft has to be the low of the low. I think I would stake a hiding place near my fire wood stack and surprise the thieves or set a Trail Camera and see if I can catch the lowlife scumbags on film.


Slippy, it gets real cold around here, sometimes to 20 below or worse, zero to plus 10 is norm for January.
Stealing heating fuel could mean a life or death situation for some.
One of my biggest expenses, bar none, is heat, over 3 grand a year.
To sum it up, never mind the camera lens, a rifle scope lens with the rifle attached is better, especially in SHTF situation.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

SOCOM42 said:


> I have an Oregon chain grinding machine.
> They make the best chains, bars and sharpeners out of all of them.


I like the Oregon grinding machine but have always hand filed. Stihl makes the best chains.

Many bars I like better than Oregon too: Stihl and Sugihara to name two.

Husky chain/bars are rebranded Oregon.

P.S. I was probably splitting not far from you years ago when I lived close to the quabbin


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

Mad Trapper said:


> I like the Oregon grinding machine but have always hand filed. Stihl makes the best chains.
> 
> Many bars I like better than Oregon too: Stihl and Sugihara to name two.
> 
> ...


As I said Ford v's Chevy.

Was always pressed for time when cutting.
Just changed saws and sharpened back at the shop.

Use Husky, Stihl and Poulin saws.


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Oregon makes a battery powered saw that in a grid down situation where gas was hard to come by and IF you had solar to recharge the battery, I find it interesting and have been watching prices over the last year or so. Anybody have any feedback on these? I'm sure they would be quiet and that would be a good thing.

http://www.amazon.com/OREGON-Volt-C...=UTF8&qid=1393768643&sr=1-1&keywords=powernow


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## tinkerhell (Oct 8, 2014)

I only have a sliver of knowledge about this topic.


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## SecTec21 (Jul 27, 2013)

I love wood. It is one of the most versatile and useful materials on earth to humans. 

I have some amateur, homeowner-grade experience with fireplace type wood. I've cut trees into cords of firewood, split it, stacked it, cussed it, and enjoyed the warmth it emits. My great grandfather on my Mother's (bless her soul) side was a professional lumberjack in West Virginia. I can remember some times as a pre-teen getting lessons in how to chop, split, and stack firewood. 

The Wranglestar channel on youtube is something you might find helpful. His video "A Proper Woodcutters Tool Kit" covers the kind of equipment you will need to cut up a bunch of wood. 

If I remember correctly, there was a recent thread about firewood with a poster explaining the definition of a cord of wood in really good detail. I could't find it when I looked to use it as a reference in this post. Maybe you'll have better luck. 

I developed a list of equipment from Wranglestar and other sources and I'll share it with you. It is pretty much in the order of importance to you regarding what to get first, etc.

Splitting Maul - 4 lb rather than a 6 or 8 lb. Those get heavy quick!
Axes - Single head or double bit
2 Splitting wedges - steel preferred but plastic is OK.
Hatchets
Sledge hammers - long handle and a short handle too.
36" hand saws
18" bow saws
Sharpening tools - 12" bastard file, file card, sharpening stone, Lansky round stone
Chainsaw - 14"-16" homeowner type, 20"-24" logger
Extra chains for each saw
Chainsaw tool & maintenance kit - refer to the Wranglestar video.
Firewood stands - 8'x 32" as a place to stack your firewood.
Firewood porch rack - able to hold about two days worth of firewood.
Canvas firewood carrier - to tote wood from the rack to the inside.
Tarps to cover your stack.
Metal ash can - to carry ashes from the fireplace to a metal storage/disposal barrel. 
Metal barrel
Tree jack - a very useful tool the utility of which will be brought home to you after you've spent a half day in the woods cutting up logs!

I hope this post helps.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

I believe a chord of wood is 128 cu.ft.


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## SoCal92057 (Apr 12, 2014)

Maine-Marine said:


> Man - I split and stacked many a cord of wood... I was a PILOT... Pile it at Grams, Pile it at home, pile it at friends
> 
> if you are going to cut down the trees yourself get a Peavey (Timber jack with log stand- available at tractor supply for under $60)
> 
> ...


Agreed. He is an accident waiting to happen. He also lacks chaps, helmet, face shield and hearing protection. A Peavey is a nice piece of gear but not essential. Too keep the chain out of the dirt just make your cuts along the length of the log but never go more than about 3/4 of the way through it. Once the cuts are made role the log over and finish the cuts from the side that was previously against the ground. His technique will take much too long as he is moving the Peavey for every cut. Another thing that chain saw users may want to consider is using a low kickback chain.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

SecTec21 said:


> I love wood. It is one of the most versatile and useful materials on earth to humans.
> 
> I have some amateur, homeowner-grade experience with fireplace type wood. I've cut trees into cords of firewood, split it, stacked it, cussed it, and enjoyed the warmth it emits. My great grandfather on my Mother's (bless her soul) side was a professional lumberjack in West Virginia. I can remember some times as a pre-teen getting lessons in how to chop, split, and stack firewood.
> 
> ...


Wow that is impressive!

I learned from my ancestors who were off grid until about 1950. They logged and farmed with horses, percihoins and Beldgins (sp ?)

Know difference from a felling vs crosscut saw? I still have both ready to go and can service them.

Who wakes up first and get the tea/coffee going?

Axes start a 4lbs

You can't handle a double bit, been to PNW yet? Junior?

Plastic splitting wedge? What are YOU smoking? Those are felling wedges were WOOD, before plastic was invented!

*I will ROFL at the rest of this!!*


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