# Maintaining a Defensive Handgun



## Notsoyoung (Dec 2, 2013)

Below is an article from American Rifleman, the magazine put out by the NRA. I thought that it had a few good tips in it-NSY:

Tips for Maintaining a Defensive Handgun

by Jim Wilson - Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Tips for Maintaining a Defensive Handgun
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One thing’s for sure: Good-quality defensive handguns aren't cheap. The good news is that when properly maintained, they can last for years and years. And maintenance of your defensive handgun should be considered a critical component to your overall defensive plan. Here are some ideas that will get you headed in the right direction and help guarantee that, should you ever be faced with a violent criminal attack, your handgun will function properly.

Regardless of the type of handgun you use for personal defense, you should be able to field strip it. Field stripping doesn't mean that the gun has to be taken completely apart, just stripped down so that it can be properly cleaned. Just about every handgun comes with an owner's manual that explains how to accomplish this. If you purchased a used gun, you can generally contact the manufacturer for an owner’s manual, or even find it online. Failing those options, ask a qualified gunsmith or firearm instructor to show you how it is done.

With the modern ammunition available today, it is really not critical that a firearm be cleaned after each shooting session. However, regularly cleaning your defensive handgun is an excellent habit. Besides keeping the gun clean and in perfect operating condition, the cleaning process gives you the opportunity to examine the gun for worn parts or any other problem that might arise. During the middle of a gunfight is not the time to find out that your defensive handgun requires a trip to the gunsmith. Owner’s manuals, online sources and gunsmiths can all advise on the best way to clean your particular gun.

Critical to proper gun maintenance is lubrication. It has been my observation that most people fall into one of two categories: either they don't lubricate their guns at all or they use far too much lubrication. A few drops of light oil on specific areas of your handgun will suffice. Too much lubrication attracts dirt, burnt powder particles and lint, all of which may adversely affect the reliability of the firearm. The climate that you live in will dictate how much and how often the gun should be lubricated. I try to do this about once a month whether the handgun has been fired or not.

It is also important to realize that just any oil won't do as a gun lubricant. Motor oil, sewing machine oil and penetrating oil are not made for guns. It is important to use a light oil that is especially designed for firearms and does not get gummy over time.

For those who shoot a semi-automatic, it is also important to periodically replace the pistol's recoil spring. Springs will often weaken when the pistol has been fired quite a bit. For example, it is recommended that the recoil spring in a 1911 be changed out somewhere between 2,000 and 5,000 rounds. A couple of years ago, a 1911 custom gunsmith told me that he changed out his recoil spring every 1,000 rounds. Since recoil springs are not very expensive, I decided to follow this practice and believe that it is one reason that my .45 semi-autos remain so reliable.

Semi-automatic shooters also need to keep any eye on the pistol magazines. Many pistol malfunctions can be directly traced to damaged or worn magazines. It is best to keep a supply of good quality magazines on hand. And, for goodness sake, if a magazine begins to cause malfunctions, just throw it in the nearest garbage can and get a new one. Too many folks say, “Well, I will just keep it for my practice sessions.” This is simply a recipe for getting the bad magazine mixed up with the good ones. Again, a gunfight is not place to find this out. Bad magazine? Throw it away!

It is also a good idea to replace the defensive ammo that you are carrying on a regular basis. I do this about three times each year. I use the old ammunition for practice and stoke the gun and extra magazines with fresh ammunition. And, when you are loading your gun and spare ammo carrier with new ammunition, take the time to examine each round for damage. Over the years, I have come across about half a dozen rounds of factory ammunition that either had a damaged case or the primer upside down. It is rare, but it does happen.

When you wear a handgun every day, as I have done for more years than I care to count, they are subject to external wear and rust. My solution has been to keep an oily rag (again, gun oil, please) on the nightstand. When I take the gun off at the end of the day, I take just a moment to wipe it off with the rag. For this reason, I have guns that are 40 and 50 years old that look like they are almost new. And the practice gives me a daily opportunity to again examine the gun for any problems such as loose sights, screws and stocks.

If all of this sounds like I baby my defensive handguns, then you are reading me correctly. I can tell you from experience that a defensive handgun in good shape is a critical part of any defensive plan. Take care of it and it will take care of you.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

I use 5 parts Quaker State 5w20w synthetic with 1 part slick 50 high mileage .
I've left my Kahr CW9 and G19 in snow and ice filled bucket overnight where it got to 12 below inside a locked shed.
I chipped off the snow and ice with a car ice scraper.
Guess what? The car lube worked fine and let the guns shoot even better.
I also use WalMart brand brake cleaner .
I don't think the guns care if it's gun oil or car oil. I mean they're both petro products.

I don't wipe my gun down after I take it off, it makes it slippery to handle in most instances,let alone a SD encounter
That's how I roll, and have been for 47 years of gunning.As always YMMV


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## Camel923 (Aug 13, 2014)

Those products are great to keep in mind, especially In a survival situation. Thanks for the suggestions Aquahull. Lithium grease is useful. Green clean will work too.

I routinely clean any weapon after use.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

White Lithium is great on the slides and doesn't stain clothing as bad as some dark greases.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

I gave up I get Frog spit, ninja lube ,hoppe, Moble 1, amsoil, CLP and one bottle of everything on the shelf. Mix one part each shake well and lube it. Then dry it with a heat gun and reapply 3 times. I do this after every round fired. Plus strip it all the way down to every part and the mag also.
Honestly CLP lightly clean when it needs it light lube now and then


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## csi-tech (Apr 13, 2013)

My Glock 26 is on my hip during long summer walks every day. I carry it on a deep concealment holster that usually goes outside your underwear. I just strap it on over my jogging shorts and my t shirts cover it very well. When I get home it is usually sweaty. I wipe it off, unload it and put it away. I clean it every coupls of weeks and I do use grease on the frame rails instead of oil alone because it is exposed to sweat. No rust at all yet and it runs like a swiiss, er, Austrian watch.


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## Diver (Nov 22, 2014)

csi-tech said:


> My Glock 26 is on my hip during long summer walks every day. I carry it on a deep concealment holster that usually goes outside your underwear. I just strap it on over my jogging shorts and my t shirts cover it very well. When I get home it is usually sweaty. I wipe it off, unload it and put it away. I clean it every coupls of weeks and I do use grease on the frame rails instead of oil alone because it is exposed to sweat. No rust at all yet and it runs like a swiiss, er, Austrian watch.


Rust? On a Glock? I don't think so.


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## Ralph Rotten (Jun 25, 2014)

Where the difference lies between the different lubricants is the break-down point. If you are only ever going to shoot a few defensive rounds and retreat then motor oil will prolly work fine. If you are going to run mad rounds thru an AR during a firefight then you will benefit from superior oils. Also, some oils are designed for metal but will attack rubber and other compounds. Some oils grow thin and get blasted off while shooting (like the Mosin that shoots oil out the back of the bolt!)

So it really matters how hard you plan on running your gun. I am a big fan of RemLube and 3-in-1.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

1911 is nice as you can work on it without almost no tools needed. Then a bit of lube/cleaning fluids you are good to go.

Got to Love John Browning designs.....


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## bigwheel (Sep 22, 2014)

Great tips on that. Thanks. I am fixing to go squirt Mr. Sig down with WD 40.


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## Ralph Rotten (Jun 25, 2014)

WD40 makes a great gun scrubber for everything but the bore. I've seen people use it to rinse guns (in the post-freon days.)


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

I do have a few bottles of Slip2000,RemLube,Hoppes Gun Oil, 3in1, Outers Gun Oil,Montgomery Ward Gun Oil,Mouse Milk, WD40,Slick50 in the can etc

The Slick 50 is designed to bond and lubricate metal when it get's hot.
Does an AR15 in 556 get hot with multiple mag dumps???????
Mine does.


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## stillacitizen2 (Jan 30, 2015)

I use engine assembly lube on my AR's and my 1911. Never a failure.


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## Jakthesoldier (Feb 1, 2015)

As a certified Army Armorer I feel the need to state that other than the OP, the rest of these posts are TERRIBLE ideas. There is a reason that the only authorized lubricant for military weapons is CLP. Other oils are designed to lubricate. Thats it. CLP, as the name indicates, has a threefold purpose. It cleans, it lubricates, and it protects. Other oils do not have these benefits. Other cleaners can cause wear to your weapon, especially to bluing. They cause oxidation. The only other good things to use is the Lithium grease some of you mentioned, or a special silicone grease. 

If you want to protect your weapon, use nothing other than a CLP oil on the metal parts. A couple drops on the contact points before firing, a VERY light coat when storing (followed by a full clean before use, as CLP continues to draw carbon out of the metal), and liberal application while cleaning (followed by a good wipe down).

And please stop using solvent tanks every time you clean your weapon. Solvent tanks are intended to be used for weapons that have fired thousands, to tens of thousands, of rounds without being cleaned.


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## Jakthesoldier (Feb 1, 2015)

As a certified Army Armorer I feel the need to state that other than the OP, the rest of these posts are TERRIBLE ideas. There is a reason that the only authorized lubricant for military weapons is CLP. Other oils are designed to lubricate. Thats it. CLP, as the name indicates, has a threefold purpose. It cleans, it lubricates, and it protects. Other oils do not have these benefits. Other cleaners can cause wear to your weapon, especially to bluing. They cause oxidation. The only other good things to use is the Lithium grease some of you mentioned, or a special silicone grease. 

If you want to protect your weapon, use nothing other than a CLP oil on the metal parts. A couple drops on the contact points before firing, a VERY light coat when storing (followed by a full clean before use, as CLP continues to draw carbon out of the metal), and liberal application while cleaning (followed by a good wipe down).

And please stop using solvent tanks every time you clean your weapon. Solvent tanks are intended to be used for weapons that have fired thousands, to tens of thousands, of rounds without being cleaned.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

Jakthesoldier said:


> As a certified Army Armorer I feel the need to state that other than the OP, the rest of these posts are TERRIBLE ideas. There is a reason that the only authorized lubricant for military weapons is CLP. Other oils are designed to lubricate. Thats it. CLP, as the name indicates, has a threefold purpose. It cleans, it lubricates, and it protects. Other oils do not have these benefits. Other cleaners can cause wear to your weapon, especially to bluing. They cause oxidation. The only other good things to use is the Lithium grease some of you mentioned, or a special silicone grease.
> 
> If you want to protect your weapon, use nothing other than a CLP oil on the metal parts. A couple drops on the contact points before firing, a VERY light coat when storing (followed by a full clean before use, as CLP continues to draw carbon out of the metal), and liberal application while cleaning (followed by a good wipe down).
> 
> And please stop using solvent tanks every time you clean your weapon. Solvent tanks are intended to be used for weapons that have fired thousands, to tens of thousands, of rounds without being cleaned.


Heard you the first time.

So you're stating by your double tap posting that Slip2000 is bad to use on a gun? Oh you couldn't use it if you wanted to,since you're told what to think,use and do.


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## Seneca (Nov 16, 2012)

I normally use a CLP of some type, like Breakfree, or products specifically rated for firearms, such as Hoppes, Balistol Butches bore shine etc. Though in a situation where these types of products are not available, it is nice to know there are substitutes.


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## Notsoyoung (Dec 2, 2013)

Seneca said:


> I normally use a CLP of some type, like Breakfree, or products specifically rated for firearms, such as Hoppes, Balistol Butches bore shine etc. Though in a situation where these types of products are not available, it is nice to know there are substitutes.


I am pretty much the same. Primarily I use Break-free for the semi's but have have some Rem Oil for the revolvers and non-semi long guns, and use bore shine for, well, the bores. I tend to stick with lubricants specifically made of firearms, although might go to some of the other ones mentioned in an emergency.


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## Seneca (Nov 16, 2012)

I have notices a trend towards nontoxic cleaners and lubes. I tried Seal #1 and it works. I believe that a sensitivity some people experience to the harsh chemicals and solvents in some gun cleaning products maybe what is driving the nontoxic market.


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## Diver (Nov 22, 2014)

Non-toxic? Maybe some KY Gel?


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

I've got a couple of jars of Frog Lube and it seems to work pretty good. It is a CLP product. Anyone else tried it? 
gun cleaner Archives | FrogLube


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## Jakthesoldier (Feb 1, 2015)

I have no idea why my last post posted twice. But what I am saying is non clp cleaners/lubes are not ideal. Period. Some are less effective and others are downright detrimental to good function. It's not about brand names, almost any CLP is good, and they are all better than motor oil, wd40 etc.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

Gun oil and lubricant test - AR15.COM

Gun Lubricant Corrosion Tests - The Firearm Blog

Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting, Benchrest Competition, Varminting and Firearms Storage


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## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

Would you guys say the 1911 takes less maintenance than most others? 
Or just easier?


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## Boss Dog (Feb 8, 2013)

> ...It is also important to realize that just any oil won't do as a gun lubricant. Motor oil, sewing machine oil and penetrating oil are not made for guns. It is important to use a light oil that is especially designed for firearms and does not get gummy over time...
> 
> ...It is also a good idea to replace the defensive ammo that you are carrying on a regular basis. I do this about three times each year. I use the old ammunition for practice and stoke the gun and extra magazines with fresh ammunition...


If you're cleaning your gun every month, how is any oil going to dry out and gum up? Gun accessories and care products are huge business. They simply want you to continue to buy their products and they are expensive. If you use a little care & judgement you can save a good amount of money using other products that will work just as well and not cause you to spend the rent & electric bill money on them.

He didn't say but, the normally stated reason I hear about rotating your defensive ammo is due to set-back of the bullet into the case when you constantly cycle the weapon. Just get a set of calipers and keep an eye on it. If you use good process in maintenance, why would you need to "replace" your defensive ammo 3 times a year?

I use whatever cleaning material I have on hand, usually stock up when I find it on super sale. 
I use brake cleaner (always non-chlorinated) and have read on here that some use carb cleaner. Also check that you have non-chlorinated carb cleaner. The chlorine will attack copper and nickel and may eat the bluing off your gun. Stainless steel is an alloy of mostly steel & nickel. They will also attack some plastics. Careful with your tupperwear guns! Using these cleaners will strip every bit of oil from the area you are cleaning so you must be sure to lube it good again after you're done. But they DO CLEAN!

Just check any cleaner or light oil you are considering using to make sure of the contents and research them if you're unsure, or don't use them.

I have been using Mobile-1 motor oil for a gun lube for years and have had no problems at all. Rem-Oil is too thin and will evaporate/run-off and generally won't stay put. It's good seller though. I do buy it when it's on deep discount (cheaper than thin hardware oils) and use it for cleaning and on my antique wind-up clock.

It is a good article on the rest of the process though.


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## sargedog (Nov 12, 2012)

I am a little OCD when it comes to my firearms. Some people watch tv, sports, other hobbies mine is making sure I have a shiny firearm. 

Slippy, I bought some a while back to try and I agree it seems to do a great job. I put it on my knife blades as well it makes them nice and slick. since it is edible I don't worry about it harming me. Although I have so much heavy metal in my body it's not funny (mercury, lead, and arsenic) I am not gonna sweat a little frog lube.LOL


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## Diver (Nov 22, 2014)

budgetprepp-n said:


> Would you guys say the 1911 takes less maintenance than most others?
> Or just easier?


Depends on what you're comparing it to. The 1911 is an all metal gun and probably compares favorably to other all metal semi-automatic pistols in terms of ease of maintenance. Ever try to clean a Ruger Mark III? A 1911 is definitely easier. On the other hand a Glock comes apart easier, and because it is polymer has fewer parts that are subject to rust. That's not to knock 1911's. In fact I own a 1911, a Mark III, and a Glock. I never bought a gun because it was easy to clean or hard to clean. I buy them to shoot, and clean them so I can continue to shoot them.


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## Jakthesoldier (Feb 1, 2015)

Actually the difficulty level of disassembling the 1911, along with ammunition costs and the "need for a round that can be fired accurately by smaller shooters" are the reasons the Army stopped using the 1911. It is not among the easiest handguns to disassemble, in fact, I have found it to be among the most complicated among handguns. But it is reliable enough that you can reasonably expect not to have the need to field strip it under combat situations.


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## Diver (Nov 22, 2014)

Jakthesoldier said:


> Actually the difficulty level of disassembling the 1911, along with ammunition costs and the "need for a round that can be fired accurately by smaller shooters" are the reasons the Army stopped using the 1911. It is not among the easiest handguns to disassemble, in fact, I have found it to be among the most complicated among handguns. But it is reliable enough that you can reasonably expect not to have the need to field strip it under combat situations.


Oh boy, are the 1911 fans going to love you! LOL


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## Jakthesoldier (Feb 1, 2015)

Don't get me wrong. My favorite hand gun is the 1911. The thing is indestructible and never fails. I wish I hadn't sold mine. I drove nails with it once I put in a little work on it. But facts are facts. I can fully field strip and reassemble an M9 blindfolded in 10 seconds. Very few can say that of the 1911.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

fast.


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## Diver (Nov 22, 2014)

Jakthesoldier said:


> Don't get me wrong. My favorite hand gun is the 1911. The thing is indestructible and never fails. I wish I hadn't sold mine. I drove nails with it once I put in a little work on it. But facts are facts. I can fully field strip and reassemble an M9 blindfolded in 10 seconds. Very few can say that of the 1911.


If it weren't for your screen name I'd ask why you would want to use a handgun as a hammer or field strip anything blindfolded.


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## Jakthesoldier (Feb 1, 2015)

Lol. Yea well blindfolded practice is great for honing your understanding of your weapon, as well as training for low light, no light situations. Darkness won't keep a weapon from malfunctioning, and, if you can't fix it in the dark, you might find yourself out of the fight.


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## Diver (Nov 22, 2014)

Jakthesoldier said:


> Lol. Yea well blindfolded practice is great for honing your understanding of your weapon, as well as training for low light, no light situations. Darkness won't keep a weapon from malfunctioning, and, if you can't fix it in the dark, you might find yourself out of the fight.


I'm sure it does, but it just seemed funny. You do raise the importance of not only being easy to maintain, but also reliability of function. I hope I can stick to shooting what is fun to shoot.


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