# question about cars



## miho (Jun 10, 2012)

My car overheated and now has a leak. its not the radiator i don't see water dripping from there. i add coolant to the reserve to be on safe side before i go anywhere.i added some this morning and i heard a gurgling sound that emptied out tbe reserve bottle but after adding more it stopped and it was full. i waited a lil to see if it was gonna drip the whole gallon but it didn'tyet the bottle was empty. after i drive water drips from passenger side not a lot but still its dripping and there's water by the pedals. I'm taking it to the shop but I'm wondering if it can wait or is it a fix right now type thing.if anybody have an idea of what's wrong please post.thanks.


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## inceptor (Nov 19, 2012)

First check the oil. Does it look like a milkshake? See if the carpet on the front passengers side is wet.


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## miho (Jun 10, 2012)

I checked the oil and no its not milky. No water on passenger side atleast didn't notice any. i kinda know its not in the oil cos there's not white smoke. am i right?? I think my water pump is getting ready to quit. not saying i know it all though just being a single mom make you learn stuff


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## inceptor (Nov 19, 2012)

There would be white smoke (actually steam) coming out of the tailpipe if the head gasket was leaking near a cylinder. Another symptom of a head gasket would be water in the oil. This would case it to look like a milkshake. One would think if it was the water pump, it would be leaking out of the weep hole. But you say you see no leaks. Check all the hoses including the heater hoses for signs of water marks.


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## LunaticFringeInc (Nov 20, 2012)

Yep, check the oil and check the transmission fluid if you have an automatic. If your oil looks like a milkshake or looks like its has some yogurt in it you more than likely have a blown head gasket, warped head or a crack in the engine block. If the auto Trans fluid looks like that then thee is a leaking coolant line in your radiator that's been breeched and cross contaminating your fluids. None of which are good! If your car didn't start having this problem until you over heated it and now its drinking large amounts of coolant fluid you have in all probability warped the block/heads or blown a head gasket. If the engine is running hot now on a regular basis this is almost a guarantee. 

I would also check the water pump. There is a orfice on it that will usually weep water, sometimes badly in extreme cases that will indicate you need a new water pump before it actually craps out on you. On a Chevy Small Block this is just under the snout that the pulley attaches to on the pump. This could explain your water leak on the passenger side perhaps and could be where your loosing coolant at and the cause for your over heating after you have lost some coolant.

Another thing that will cause over heating on a care is a collapsed water hose or a bad thermostate. I check both the second I notice any of the engines on my vehicles starting to run at more than about 25 degrees above its normal range and it aint a 110 degrees outside in bumper to bumper traffic. Yes I am a gauge watcher in a serious kind of way! If you wait for the "idiot light" to come on, by the time it does you have most likely already done damage to your vehicles engine...it might still run, but it wont likely run for very long. As a preventative since I hate surprises, I change out the hoses on my cooling system about once every two years irregardless. Anytime the coolant system gets maintenance and it does at least once a year in the fall I automatically have the thermostat replaced as well. I have Chevy Small Blocks so this is easy to get to for the mechanic cost about 13-19 bucks and is some damned good insurance that my thermostat wont be the problem, ever! When your flushing the coolant system and replacing the fluid already this adds less than 20 bucks to the repair cost and takes away the most likely culprit on an over heating issue on a engine that's been operating fine otherwise.


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## miho (Jun 10, 2012)

I don't know where the transmition fluid thing is  i did go under the car the water comes from this square thing its close to the timing belt just down the bottom. idk hopefully its not expensive


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

miho said:


> My car overheated and now has a leak. its not the radiator i don't see water dripping from there. i add coolant to the reserve to be on safe side before i go anywhere.i added some this morning and i heard a gurgling sound that emptied out tbe reserve bottle but after adding more it stopped and it was full. i waited a lil to see if it was gonna drip the whole gallon but it didn'tyet the bottle was empty. after i drive water drips from passenger side not a lot but still its dripping and there's water by the pedals. I'm taking it to the shop but I'm wondering if it can wait or is it a fix right now type thing.if anybody have an idea of what's wrong please post.thanks.


That was right adding to the reserve. The overflow is just that. Overflow. When the coolant expands, it goes into the overflow. Then when it cools, it "shrinks" and goes back in the cooling system. Probably the gurgling sound you heard, along with the air escaping.

By passenger side, and pedals, do you mean inside, or outside?

Inside could be heater core. It could seep from the heater core, drip onto trim or dash, and run until it finds a place to drip (where its dripping may not be where the leak is)

Outside could be a number of things. Pinhole leak in hoses, weep hole on the water pump, I know of an el camino that leaks THROUGH the thermostat housing. Not the seal or hose. Through the housing itself.

Depending on the vehicle/engine, buick 3.8's are known for intake gaskets failing, letting water into the motor.

Dodge v8 has exhaust manifold studs that are in the water jacket.

Cars with radiators that have built in trans coolers have been known to crack and put trans fluid in the coolant and vice versa.

Cracked head, or blown head gasket, 99% times you'll know (between cylinders) Bad running, steam out of the tailpipe (white is water, blue is oil, black is unburned fuel), constant almost instant overheating. Pull the plugs. If one is immaculately clean, there's an issue there. To determine if its a head gasket, have the shop do a compression test. That'll rule out head gaskets (internal). If 2 cylinders are low compression next to each other, then that's where the blow is . The other 1% of head gasket failure is what I call external. It's where the head gasket blows between a water port and exhaust valve. That pushes water out of the motor and directly through the tailpipe.

It's a tough call. Easiest would be to pressure test it with dye in the system. Then you'll know exactly where the leak is, coupled with a compression test.

I wish you were close. I'd do these tests for you. But any good mechanic will suggest these tests before suggesting what could be wrong. I've gotten great deals on cars because what they thought was a blown head gasket, was a bad valve. Head still came off, but I had a head waiting so the repair was near free (still replaced head gaskets, and all top end gaskets) drove that car until the trans went out. Wasn't worth it to fix at that point.


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## GTGallop (Nov 11, 2012)

Sounds like the heater core.
Can you tell us the year / make/ model / engine / mileage of the car in question?


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

miho said:


> I don't know where the transmition fluid thing is  i did go under the car the water comes from this square thing its close to the timing belt just down the bottom. idk hopefully its not expensive


What kind of car is it?


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## rickkyw1720pf (Nov 17, 2012)

If the water is inside by the peddles about the only thing it could be is a heater hose or the heater. I would fill the radiator then put a pressure checker on it put around 20 psi and the leak will show up. 
Auto zone may let you borrow one.

Edit: go with 12 psi unless the cap has a pressure rating on it.


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## Moonshinedave (Mar 28, 2013)

Had a 1998 OLDS 88 I allowed to get hot, the plastic intake manifold warped allowing the cooling jacket to leak cooling into the intake, not into the oil but the combustion area (top of the pistons). Mechanic said it is common in GM products during that time. Something to think about.


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## jimb1972 (Nov 12, 2012)

rickkyw1720pf said:


> If the water is inside by the peddles about the only thing it could be is a heater hose or the heater. I would fill the radiator then put a pressure checker on it put around 20 psi and the leak will show up.
> Auto zone may let you borrow one.


That's a good idea, but be careful if it is an older vehicle, 20 psi could be too much for an old radiator to take and you could turn a $20 problem into a couple hundred.


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## rickkyw1720pf (Nov 17, 2012)

jimb1972 said:


> That's a good idea, but be careful if it is an older vehicle, 20 psi could be too much for an old radiator to take and you could turn a $20 problem into a couple hundred.


Probably right I will edit it to 12 lbs that should be sufficient on all vehicles, I have an air compressor with a regulator that I just turn to the proper pressure ( many times it is stated on the radiator cap) and just hook it up to the over flow tube, the cap will work as a check valve and pressurize the radiator.


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## miho (Jun 10, 2012)

Its a daewoo leganza 1999


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## miho (Jun 10, 2012)

Yes the water its inside. its not a lot like flooding but its wet and my windshield fogs from the inside in the area where the defogger is. is that a super bad thing? Is adding coolant before i go anywhere gonna damage the car more? I just can't really afford a big bill right now. i normally take my car to the shop when i get my refund and do a full check on it so till then its gonna be hard to afford.


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## inceptor (Nov 19, 2012)

You most likely have a leaky heater core. I've never worked on one of those so I don't know how difficult they are. At least it's not a head gasket, those get real expensive.


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## miho (Jun 10, 2012)

So adding coolant why does it drips some of it? It ill drip maybe like an ounce. or so. Is it ok me adding to reserve to drive is it something that can wait till feb?


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## rickkyw1720pf (Nov 17, 2012)

miho said:


> Yes the water its inside. its not a lot like flooding but its wet and my windshield fogs from the inside in the area where the defogger is. is that a super bad thing? Is adding coolant before i go anywhere gonna damage the car more? I just can't really afford a big bill right now. i normally take my car to the shop when i get my refund and do a full check on it so till then its gonna be hard to afford.


Well you just answered my next question if it is the heater it will usually fog up the windows.

I have had pretty good results using Bar's stop leak it is worth a try.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Yup. Heater core. I think on those cars, the core is recessed. Has to "fill up" the area before you'll see anything. 

Look like Dash may have to come out 

BUT it "should" only be a $400-$500 job. Depending on the hourly rate and parts charge.


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## miho (Jun 10, 2012)

rickkyw1720pf said:


> Well you just answered my next question if it is the heater it will usually fog up the windows.
> 
> I have had pretty good results using Bar's stop leak it is worth a try.


 what is that? Is it

something i can do?


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## miho (Jun 10, 2012)

Can it wait? Or is it a right away thing?


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Bars leak is something you buy at the auto parts store and put it in the radiator. Start your car, Turn on your heater full blast. It'll find the hole and seal it temporarily. 

Other thing you can do is have the mechanic bypass the heater.


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## miho (Jun 10, 2012)

Thank you. I will try that.


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## miho (Jun 10, 2012)

I decided to check the back since my son told me his feet were wet. there's lots of water in the back. is that still heater core?


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## inceptor (Nov 19, 2012)

miho said:


> I decided to check the back since my son told me his feet were wet. there's lots of water in the back. is that still heater core?


Most likely. It's probably running under the carpet. There is nothing back there to leak coolant. As to the Bars Leak, follow the instructions. Too much can cause more damage. I have seen people think if a little is good then a whole lot is better and they plugged up the radiator. Go to your local auto parts store. They will stock it and be able to explain how to use it. They should be able to answer most if not all your questions. It's part of what they do.


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## Arizona Infidel (Oct 5, 2013)

Heater core. If your asking if you can fix it yourself, you probably can't. If you don't need the heater you can bypass it, if you do you probably better take it to the shop. Some of those heater cores can be a bitch. I replaced one in a dodge P/U one time and had to completely remove the dash from the truck. The repair could be more than your little Dewoo is worth.


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## inceptor (Nov 19, 2012)

Arizona Infidel said:


> Heater core. If your asking if you can fix it yourself, you probably can't. If you don't need the heater you can bypass it, if you do you probably better take it to the shop. Some of those heater cores can be a bitch. I replaced one in a dodge P/U one time and had to completely remove the dash from the truck. The repair could be more than your little Dewoo is worth.


The same with a lot of Chevy trucks if memory serves me correctly.

ETA: Bars Leak is still worth a try.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Arizona Infidel said:


> Heater core. If your asking if you can fix it yourself, you probably can't. If you don't need the heater you can bypass it, if you do you probably better take it to the shop. Some of those heater cores can be a bitch. I replaced one in a dodge P/U one time and had to completely remove the dash from the truck. The repair could be more than your little Dewoo is worth.


My dodge truck was about an hours job 

I had an s10 blazer that was a pita but doable.

My 300zx no way. I bypassed that sob haha.

Come to think of it, I've only had a few cars cores go out.

And while the cars weren't with it, the heat was haha


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## bigdogbuc (Mar 23, 2012)

miho said:


> I checked the oil and no its not milky. No water on passenger side atleast didn't notice any. i kinda know its not in the oil cos there's not white smoke. am i right?? I think my water pump is getting ready to quit. not saying i know it all though just being a single mom make you learn stuff


Probably the heater core. Turn on your heater and see if you are getting "normal" heat. If not, get used to fogged up windows (depending on your climate) and being cold during the winter. You may feel some heat, some times, but it is a rare treat.

IF THIS IS THE CASE (heater core), keep your heat adjusted to the "Cold Setting" and this will keep your engines water, in the engine. Then check your water and top off the system. If it is your heater core and it's leaking, having the temperature set on "Hot" opens the heater core, you leak water and your engine has less water and will runs hot when it gets low, particularly at stop lights.

If you smell anti-freeze (sort of a sweet smell - definitely not a normal smell), probably the heater core. Especially if it you keep losing water and it doesn't seem to end up anywhere (oil, ground, engine compartment). The gurgling sound is part air, part low water. I've even watched a weird type of "fog" come out of my defrost vent, followed by an overpowering smell of anti-freeze. Had to get out of the car. And this was during the summer when I wasn't even trying to use the heat.

My heater core has been out for about two years and will cost more to fix than the car is worth. Mine requires removing the windshield, then the dashboard. Parts are next to nothing, the labor, around $1500 to $2000.


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## miho (Jun 10, 2012)

I made an appt at pep boys and gonna ask them to bi pass it till i can afford it. i found someone who can replace it for half the price but still its expensive.thanks everyone you were all very helpful


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## LunaticFringeInc (Nov 20, 2012)

rickkyw1720pf said:


> If the water is inside by the peddles about the only thing it could be is a heater hose or the heater. I would fill the radiator then put a pressure checker on it put around 20 psi and the leak will show up.
> Auto zone may let you borrow one.
> 
> Edit: go with 12 psi unless the cap has a pressure rating on it.


Yeah if inside the car yeah I can just about promise its a heater coil which is pretty common if the car is older than about 5 years old. The replacement part is cheap but on most vehicles about half the dash has to be removed to do the repair and the labor cost will kill you!


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## LunaticFringeInc (Nov 20, 2012)

If you do find out its the heater coil, and you decide to get it fixed, I would highly suggest that you replace all of the associated hoses while you got everything torn apart so that a few months later you aint faced with a now leaking hose or connection. It will add a little more to the repair now but it will be so worth it and save you money in the long run. Might also want to consider replacing the blower fan too depending on the age of a car and how much use that fan gets in a season. This is normally not a repair you wanna have to make very often due to the amount of labor required just to access this area of your car to make a repair. Normally this is one of the most costly repairs to do on a vehicle short of body damage, blown engine or transmission. 70-80% of the cost is on labor alone. 

On the 95 Thunderbird I had, this was about a 800 dollar repair job plus parts everytime there was a issue. In my 89 truck, thank God for Chevy, everything was easily accessable and tucked in behind the glove Box and required minimal disassembly, I felt cheated when I got the repair bill from my mechanic!


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

miho said:


> Its a daewoo leganza 1999


A daewoo? Take it to the range and charge your buddies a few bucks each to shoot it.


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## inceptor (Nov 19, 2012)

Hopefully you're in a climate that your are able to do without the heater. I'm in the Dallas area I still use mine on occasion.


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## miho (Jun 10, 2012)

I won't have my buddies shoot the car lol its the first time i have any problems with it in the time i had it so its been pretty good. the problem was the heater coil and my boss husband is a mechanic he offered to fix it and he will only charge parts and 40 bucks for labor  he is replacing everything he estimates my bill to be about 90 bucks . I'm so darn happy i asked my boss to recomend a mechanic


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

miho said:


> I won't have my buddies shoot the car lol its the first time i have any problems with it in the time i had it so its been pretty good. the problem was the heater coil and my boss husband is a mechanic he offered to fix it and he will only charge parts and 40 bucks for labor  he is replacing everything he estimates my bill to be about 90 bucks . I'm so darn happy i asked my boss to recomend a mechanic


I'm glad your car is going to fixed but my dark side was looking forward to seeing a video of your pals unloading some rounds on the daewoo.


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