# I believe that Prreppers should learn to sharpen.



## The Tourist (Jun 9, 2016)

We all discussed TEOTWAWKI scenarios, and the biggest issue we have is usually "running out." We'll run out of water, medicines, clothing, etc. Yet, what is the one thing most survivalist authors place near the top? It's usually knives.

Now, I realize some of these survival knives cost 400 to 1000 dollars. But the knife below is my EDC, in fact threads from my blue jeans are still stuck on the pocket clip--sorry about that. To prove it's mine and no photo magic was done, I always place the edge on the Queen's eye to show that's a real edge on a real playing card. Everything is dated with type from the sports section of The Wisconsin State Journal.

But here's the kicker, I paid 15.75 for this knife.

I buy all my waterstones from a dealer with a direct Japanese connection. Yes, I have spares, I do not want to "run out" either. But my point is that with just a little practice, you can put any edge (from rough to off the graph) with stones now on the shelves. In fact, I have mirror polished several SOG axes.

We all know that NOW is the time to prepare, store, learn and have a plan. I think sharpening should be included in that plan.


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## inceptor (Nov 19, 2012)

This is on my to-do list. I have the stones/diamonds but haven't had a chance to practice it.


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## Chiefster23 (Feb 5, 2016)

I would dearly love to be able to sharpen my knives. So far my efforts have turned out pretty bad and I’ve invested $ in jigs and diamond stones.


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## The Tourist (Jun 9, 2016)

My advice is stop at any home marked "garage sale" and buy old kitchen knives. The metal is softer, and you're going to make mistakes. If there is a polisher (not just sharpener) in your area, offer to be his "wax on, wax off" guy. He'll have your flattening filthy stones covered in swarf, that's where we all started.

BTW, I am awaiting a Spyderco from a new client. Since I do not do many, I was going to take step by step pictures.

And oh yes, go out and buy the biggest black magic markers you can find. You'll thank me later...


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## The Tourist (Jun 9, 2016)

Chiefster23 said:


> diamond stones.


I did not have any luck with them, either. Go research "Japanese waterstones." Togishis used them for over 800 years. There are katanas in museum cases that are still razor sharp.


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## White Shadow (Jun 26, 2017)

I am a semi-pro at failing to sharpen a blade.


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## Chiefster23 (Feb 5, 2016)

The Tourist said:


> I did not have any luck with them, either. Go research "Japanese waterstones." Togishis used them for over 800 years. There are katanas in museum cases that are still razor sharp.


Any recomendations on what grits to start off with?


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## WhatTheHeck (Aug 1, 2018)

I have two whetstones from the Scythe Supply company and a penning jig. 

They work well.


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## The Tourist (Jun 9, 2016)

One of the things I like about the cutlery business is that it has the most helpful, honest people you'll meet. You'll be packing for a camping trip, and as you pat yourself down, you realize you have no knife. Some guy with swarf buried deep under his fingernails will say, "Here take mine." And in most cases you'll never see him again.

I do not know if this is legal (and Cricket and Annie play roulette to see who's first to ban me) but the most honest stone guy I know is Ken Schwartz. Reach him at 209-612-2790.

I've dealt with him for just shy of 20 years. He backs everything he sells, promptly replaces what breaks, and makes sure his stuff is first rate. He can even get you what are often called "originals." Meaning real rocks quarried from the site that a Samurai togishi used.

Drop my name. It's Chico. Of course, he is a salesman, and he'll talk your ear off...


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

You need to add axes, saws and chainsaws.......


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## The Tourist (Jun 9, 2016)

Chiefster23 said:


> Any recomendations on what grits to start off with?


You'll need a shaping stone. I use a Atoma 140. Then go up by 200 or 300. Like, first the 200, then 400, then 600 (or 800) and then 2,000 to polish out most of the scratch pattern. (Those stones are Nubatama brand). At this point your edge will look like an aluminum door from a 1970s refrigerator. It will have a toothy feel, and really cut wet rope. The Japanese call it "kirinaga."

Practice first.

Edit: Go to edgeproinc.com and Ben Dale has a lot of videos for sharpening.


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## hawgrider (Oct 24, 2014)

AlI ever need is a steel and an Arkansas white. 
I don't buy into the need to polish. I butcher dead animals several times a year and store bought meat all year. Touch up with just a steel 98% of the time.


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## The Tourist (Jun 9, 2016)

I also approach this by the idea that I will never be fully prepared. But what happens if someone in my "survival clan" needs a field operation? I have nanodiamond slurries that are many times sharper than a surgeon's Number 10 scalpel. Yeah, it might be a rare thing, but I just read an article in a survivalist magazine on 'field dentistry.' Yikes.


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## The Tourist (Jun 9, 2016)

Oh, here's another word of wisdom from a guy who's been there. If you get good, never, ever, ever tell anyone! I want to retire! And I'm polishing at least 50 Kershaw Barges for another forum! Below is my world!


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## Ragnarök (Aug 4, 2014)

Some expensive blades for chefs can be brittle and easy to chip. It takes practice on knowing the angle to hold the knive or axe etc at. Also applying mineral oil to the whetstone is a good practice. It takes a lot of patience too. The blade will not be sharp after a couple passes on a whetstone. 

I got my whet stones from an Asian market...pretty cheap and good enough quality. For knives that are expensive I’d use really good whetstone. You have to match quality.


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## Jammer Six (Jun 2, 2017)

I'm a straight up Tormek guy.

In business, the point wasn't sharp, the point was what sharp tools could produce, and the sharp had to happen often and efficiently. That led me to Tormek. There was no time for patience, no room in the bid for a long sharpening process. We needed sharp tools, and it needed to be simple and fast.

Started off with chisels and plane irons, and it quickly became the apprentice's duty. Now several of them are J-men, and none of them will tolerate dull tools.


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## The Tourist (Jun 9, 2016)

I have a Hattori with 69 layers. That means it was folded to just short of the 68, and then an insert of VG-10 was added, and the final fold was completed. Still, I'm careful with an original Hattori, handmade by Ichiro himself. I clean and flatten the stones, tape everything and use slow, guarded and light strokes.


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## okey (Sep 13, 2018)

people have sharpened steel knives with plain old rocks for centuries. There was nothing else at the time. It can of course still be done that way. So it's an extremely minor issue.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

So how many have/can sharpen a saw, chainsaw, or axe? Have the tools?

SHTF your going to need them. I can do carpentry saws crosscut and rip, logging saws felling and crosscut, and chain saws (except 0.404 chains no round files). Need lots of files of all sorts. A way to set teeth on saws. Gauges to set teeth/rakers.

Anybody?


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## The Tourist (Jun 9, 2016)

Depends on the steel. Ka-Bar knives were made from 1084 and 1095 so young Marines could sharpen with a wet rock. Try that with a TOPS cobalt-vanadium knife and all you wind up with is rock dust.


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## Jammer Six (Jun 2, 2017)

Dremels for chainsaws, wired for 12V so they run off the pickup's battery.

Used to have apprentices sharpen saws, but it takes too long, and a pro can do it cheaper than even the ape.

Years ago, there were handsaws sold by big box stores and places like ACE Hardware that had some kind of tempering that made the pros refuse to sharpen them. By sticking to Diston, I've always avoided them.


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## Lunatic Wrench (May 13, 2018)

I learned the basics as a kid, about 10 yo. I honed those skills sharpening wood chisels. Granted I have a turntable style power sharpener now for chisels and plane irons, but I still sharpen knives by hand.
I carry a diamond stone in my truck for tune ups in the field.
I have used rocks to to put enough of an edge on something to get by.

There are plenty of pocket sharpening systems out there, but I think on a prepper level it is still a good idea to learn how to use a stone. Not that you need to learn how to put a razor edge on your knife, but at least a decent edge that will cut.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

Jammer Six said:


> Dremels for chainsaws, wired for 12V so they run off the pickup's battery.
> 
> Used to have apprentices sharpen saws, but it takes too long, and a pro can do it cheaper than even the ape.
> 
> Years ago, there were handsaws sold by big box stores and places like ACE Hardware that had some kind of tempering that made the pros refuse to sharpen them. By sticking to Diston, I've always avoided them.


A correct round file,even without a holder you can do chainsaws. I did my saw saws freehand for years. Flat file for rakers w/depth gauge

Newer bow saws have hardened blades you can't really sharpen without a carbide grinder (throw away). Diston saws are a good thing. I've got a lot. I have a point set and triangle files to do them. Rip miter and crosscut.

Large timber saws are an art to do right. I have those. (see attachment). There is an art how to sharpen and use them. For felling or bucking, the saws are different. It's a whole lot of work but goes fast if you have fresh hands to take the saw every few cuts. There are guys that can compete with chainsaws for a few logs.


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