# Nuclear and Pandemic Preparations



## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

As I said before I bought 6 Czech M85 bags from Firearm, Sporting Goods, Military Surplus Online Store in Waldorf MD - Keepshooting® for $1.95 each plus shipping.*

Czech M85 Bag with Shoulder Strap - Keepshooting®

I'm putting MOPP gloves, Nitrile gloves, Tyvek Hazmat suits and boot covers, N95 masks, goggles and a spare 40mm gas mask filter in them so they are ready.* The bags are water resistant but to further protect the items zip lock bags were used for items.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

The Finnish gas mask and M17 carrier contained an 60mm-40mm filter thread adapter, 60mm gas mask filter a plastic DECON case with a bottle of KIO3 anti radiation pills.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

Here is everything in the bag laid out close up and then in the bag and then the bag half and fully closed.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

I ordered plastic clips and some 3/4" nylon webbing so that I can convert the bags closures so that it can deploy quicker.* Any comments or suggestions?


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## sideKahr (Oct 15, 2014)

You are PREPPED! All I have for radiation is a Kearny Fallout Meter I built myself, some N-95 masks, gloves, iodine tabs, and a shovel to pile dirt against my basement windows. There are two nuclear electrical generating plants 50 miles upwind of me. This is a prep I definitely need to improve on.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

sideKahr said:


> You are PREPPED! All I have for radiation is a Kershaw Rad Meter I built myself, some N-95 masks, gloves, iodine tabs, and a shovel to pile dirt against my basement windows. There are two nuclear generating sites 50 miles upwind of me. This is a prep I definitely need to improve on.


Well at least you started doing something. We are pretty much bugging in but if we have to leave (Michigan is 3/4 surrounded by nuclear plants) then the suits will come in handy keeping any fallout off of the skin and clothes. You can probably get away with the N95 masks for fallout but to be on the safe side I have the gas masks for nuclear and for pandemic.

And for pandemic, if we were forced to go out for some stupid reason like a medical reason or recovery rescue mission then pretty much everything comes into play. I have a pump up sprayer designed for bleach so if we have to decontaminate then we can spray a bleach/water solution all over.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

I forgot to mention that the bag is very light when loaded.


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## Redneck (Oct 6, 2016)

I prep for a lot but not for this. Closest plant is 350 miles downwind. Nice looking kit, though. Thanks for the info.


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## sideKahr (Oct 15, 2014)

@MaterielGeneral You seem to have a handle on this subject. A while back Homeland Sec warned the public to have duct tape and plastic sheeting on hand for emergencies. Is this of any use for rad or bio threats, do you think?


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

Israel has used the "hide in a bathroom, plastic of window/door and seal with duct tape" for years. 
It works for chemical spills. Not so much for radiation. Radiation requires shielding, really thick 
shielding, see the pix.


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## AnotherSOFSurvivor (Sep 7, 2016)

Good looking setup you got there @MaterialGeneral, nice to see those M85 bags are in good shape, nice rapid deployment kit you got there and beats the hell out of shoving JSLIST stuff into a bag - had a couple smocks I threw away, kind of regret it now.

I need to get more setups like that, especially for a pandemic-like environment like you mentioned, would suck to go out on a supply run and then you catch Super AIDs from scratching yourself on a door - I do not believe we will see insidious full-blown Hollywood style 'the-air-is-poisoned' pandemics, but with the advent of heavily resistant bacterial strains and highly mutated serotypes of viruses, I am not taking my chance. The mister for quick DECON is a good idea too, I have been shifting my medical preps towards being much more purposeful and sanitary and stocked up on ChloraPrep, Nitrile gloves, masks, and I keep some 400mL vials filled with hydrogen peroxide and sterlie cath syringes for wound debridement

Have you worked any drills for getting into the gear, I forgot the actual numbers but it was something like mask on in 15 seconds and full suit on in 60 seconds after that...only did it in basic, always shitcanned that MOPP/CBRN stuff in SOF units, who knows why.

As for shielding from radiation - you will need purpose built fortifications to resist the heavier radiation - Gamma/X-Ray, the other waves can be beaten with sandbags, detritus, aluminum siding, etc IIRC - you will need tons of reinforced concrete to avoid getting fried but for fallout and heavy particles you should be fine...either way if you're in the direct blast area kiss your ass goodbye.


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## RJAMES (Dec 23, 2016)

sideKahr said:


> @MaterielGeneral You seem to have a handle on this subject. A while back Homeland Sec warned the public to have duct tape and plastic sheeting on hand for emergencies. Is this of any use for rad or bio threats, do you think?


If you live within mile of a chemical plant, highway or rail road having a room ready with pre-cut plastic and tape ready to go is recommended by FEMA. Chemical plant has a release or an accidnt th tget inside and tape yourself in then wait till you hear the all clear. Most likely only a few hours.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

******* said:


> I prep for a lot but not for this. Closest plant is 350 miles downwind. Nice looking kit, though. Thanks for the info.


I know where you are coming from but keep in mind that the wind will carry fallout. 350 miles is pretty short when it comes to the wind. If your not interested in nuclear threats then what about a pandemic event? If there is a serious bug going around how will you protect yourself?


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

sideKahr said:


> @MaterielGeneral You seem to have a handle on this subject. A while back Homeland Sec warned the public to have duct tape and plastic sheeting on hand for emergencies. Is this of any use for rad or bio threats, do you think?


Yes I have duct tape and packing tape to secure the plastic sheeting. I would assume it would be for both. In both cases you would want to block all the heavy drafts that you can, as soon as you can. Both threats lower in time though.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

sideKahr said:


> @MaterielGeneral You seem to have a handle on this subject. A while back Homeland Sec warned the public to have duct tape and plastic sheeting on hand for emergencies. Is this of any use for rad or bio threats, do you think?


Basements are real useful when it comes to nuclear threats.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

paraquack said:


> Israel has used the "hide in a bathroom, plastic of window/door and seal with duct tape" for years.
> It works for chemical spills. Not so much for radiation. Radiation requires shielding, really thick
> shielding, see the pix.
> View attachment 38057
> ...


Basement are real useful when it comes to nuclear events.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

AnotherSOFSurvivor said:


> Have you worked any drills for getting into the gear
> 
> As for shielding from radiation - you will need purpose built fortifications to resist the heavier radiation - Gamma/X-Ray, the other waves can be beaten with sandbags, detritus, aluminum siding, etc IIRC - you will need tons of reinforced concrete to avoid getting fried but for fallout and heavy particles you should be fine...either way if you're in the direct blast area kiss your ass goodbye.


No, no drills at this time. Family sucks when it comes to prepping. I agree with you about the shielding. For those that do not know, get out of the area or bunker down in a basement. If you have fallout on you get it off of you ASAP if you have a suit on then change ASAP. To decontaminate against fallout it is as basic as taking a shower and using soap.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

When it comes down to pandemic this is how real it gets. Watch this video from Dr. Bones/Alton, Norovirus: The Stomach Flu Epidemic. This is just one example how contagious virus's can be. He gives an example of someone that threw up in a restaurant and how people got sick afterwards. This is some crazy stuff.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

Bump. 

Watch the video


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## RJAMES (Dec 23, 2016)

The US has a lot of Norovirus activity in normal times. Currently the CDC is reporting widespread illness from Norovirus. 

Wash hands. Try not to go out if your community when there is an out break. If you have to go out wipe down the shopping cart and do not touch surfaces like door knobs, toilet handles , hand rails , elevator buttons. Use an elbow to push the button or simply ask another person standing next to the buttons to push the button for your floor/ carry a tissue push the button and toss it . 

Wash your hands at every opportunity try not to touch your face when you are out . never eat unless you wash your hands. Use hand sanitizers when out and about. 

An inexpensive hand sanitizer add a little glycerin to a bottle of rubbing alcohol make it as thick as you like. I use a table spoon to a bottle of 90 percent strength rubbing alcohol to make mine. 

Once you are sick stay home. Call others and warn them not to visit. Throw tissue trash away routinely , clean up vomit / feces then sanitize with a bleach solution or steam. You need something have it delivered, sit on the porch and ring the bell but do not come in or touch . Stay hydrated with sports drinks or pediolite . Once the vomiting is over continue to clean and sanitize . Steam car seats, chairs, carpet and again bleach solution everything you can.


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## stowlin (Apr 25, 2016)

Just curious if I could ask about the total cost. Sorry I'm just short cutting as I realize I could go look it all up. The OP has a nice package I was thinking about but the site with the $1.95 bag made it a little hard to find it all. I was going to order two bags for my wife and me and they wanted $11 shipping so I was going to see what more I could ad to make the shipping worth it.

RJAMES is it more affordable to buy a gallon of glycerin and rubbing alcohol or just buy hand sanitizer?


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## RJAMES (Dec 23, 2016)

stowlin said:


> RJAMES is it more affordable to buy a gallon of glycerin and rubbing alcohol or just buy hand sanitizer?


Glycerin comes in a 6 oz bottle for 3.88. They sell it in Pharmacies and wally world. Alcohol is 2.58 a 32 once bottle. I know I have used it to make over 5 bottles of alcohol and still have the glycerin.

Hand sanitizer is 3.97 for 30 oz bottle . If I only made 5 32 once bottles = 160 oz it would cost 12.90 for the alcohol. 12.90 plus 3.88= 16.78 I only used half of the bottle of glycerin so I still got it to use. Had I purchased the same amount of sanitizer it would cost 21.17 .

Maybe not a huge savings but a savings.


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## stowlin (Apr 25, 2016)

Thank you I love math. Probably wouldn't be worth it to get glycerin this way I take it? 
https://www.amazon.com/Premium-DETE...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N9M3M32SFWZXRRJ2BX5N



RJAMES said:


> Glycerin comes in a 6 oz bottle for 3.88. They sell it in Pharmacies and wally world. Alcohol is 2.58 a 32 once bottle. I know I have used it to make over 5 bottles of alcohol and still have the glycerin.
> 
> Hand sanitizer is 3.97 for 30 oz bottle . If I only made 5 32 once bottles = 160 oz it would cost 12.90 for the alcohol. 12.90 plus 3.88= 16.78 I only used half of the bottle of glycerin so I still got it to use. Had I purchased the same amount of sanitizer it would cost 21.17 .
> 
> Maybe not a huge savings but a savings.


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## RJAMES (Dec 23, 2016)

stowlin said:


> Thank you I love math. Probably wouldn't be worth it to get glycerin this way I take it?
> https://www.amazon.com/Premium-DETE...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=N9M3M32SFWZXRRJ2BX5N


No you just need a small bottle in liquid form to make a bunch of hand sanitizer. I hat wally world but that is going to be the best bet if you want to try it.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

In response to someone on another forums request "Now if you haven't already laid it out maybe some guidance about when and under what conditions will this set up come in handy. There seems to be many people who think any radioactive event kills everybody so why bother." The following two posts are my response to his request.

SURVIVALABILITY OF A NUCLEAR, BIOLOGICAL AND CHEMICAL EVENT

CHARACTERISTICS OF CHEMICAL AND BIOLOGICAL AGENTS AND TOXINS

Chemical agents are like poisonous pesticides, but are far more powerful. They are meant
to kill or injure you and are released to cover large areas. They may be released as gases,
liquids, or sprays. The enemy may use a mixture of agents to cause confusion and casualties.
Artillery, mortars, rockets, missiles, aircraft, bombs, and land mines can deliver the agents.
Biological agents are disease-producing germs. They create a disease hazard where none
exists naturally. They may be dispersed as sprays by generators, or delivered by explosives,
bomblets, missiles, and aircraft. They may also be spread by the release of germ-carrying flies,
mosquitoes, fleas, and ticks. The US Army does not employ these agents, but other armies may.
Toxins are poisonous substances produced by living things (such as snake venom). Toxins
are not living things and in this sense are chemicals. They would be used in combat in
the same way as chemical-warfare agents, and they may disable or kill without warning.

EFFECTS ON TERRAIN
Liquid chemical agents may restrict the use of terrain and buildings. It is difficult to decontaminate terrain. When time permits, it is best to wait for weather to decontaminate terrain naturally. Contaminated areas should be either bypassed or, when protective equipment is worn, crossed. After crossing a contaminated area, decontaminate yourself and your equipment as soon as the situation permits. Note: Low damp points like a pit/fighting position or a valley will still be hazardous long after higher elevations are clear. Chemical agents will settle over time and linger before they disipate.

EFFECTS ON HUMANS
Chemical and biological agents may enter your body through your eyes, nose, mouth, or
skin. They can disable or kill. Liquid agents may be dispersed on you, your equipment, the terrain, and foliage. The agents may linger for hours or days and endanger you when you are unprotected. Biological agents are hard to detect in early stages of use. If you find out or suspect that biological agents are being use then report it.

When it comes down to pandemic this is how real it gets. Watch this video from Dr. Bones/Alton, Norovirus: The Stomach Flu Epidemic. This is just one example how contagious virus's can be. He gives an example of someone that threw up in a restaurant and how people got sick afterwards. How far away victims were to the vomit and how long people continued to get sick after the vomit was cleaned up. This is some crazy stuff.






Keep in mind that as powerful a virus Norovirus is, it is a common virus that people and hospitals deal with all the time. Just think, what if it mutated or something different, more powerful started spreading. Would you be prepared to protect yourself and/or your family?
Chemical, Biological & Nuclear Terrorism Agents Lecture, Doctors for Disaster Preparedness 21st Annual Meeting Phoenix, AZ. July 2003 - Dr. Russell Blaylock, a neurosurgeon. This video is very informative but it is long at 43 minutes. You will hear stuff that the government does not want the common man to know and what the media will not report.






Long story short (more long than short), if it is a military chemical agent attack, you as a civilian are probably dead if it is in your vicinity. As far as operating in that specific terrain, time will degrade the agent. If it is a persistent (oily) agent then it can last weeks to years. Non persistent agents are kind of like water based. They are designed for short term, hours to days of active killing potency. These agents on the battlefield are for strategic use and are designed to stop an enemy from operating in a certain areas or to move them into a killing area.

If there is a civilian accident or terrorist attack with chemical agents, in the immediate there will be no warning until police start warning neighborhoods and/or the news starts reporting. This is a good reason to have a weather radio with a public alert function. Besides donning a gas mask relocating away from the danger area quickly is your best option. That's why it is recommended to have a Bug Out Bag ready at all times.
Biological Agents, suck because you don't know it is going on until people start getting sick and its hard to contain because wherever that person goes and whatever that person touches contaminates and spreads to the next person and onward.

Your greatest protection is isolation. This is one of the reasons why it is recommended to have a large food reserve. Your friend (Never thought I would be saying this.) will be the news/especially online alternative news, if the government is not reporting it then eventually the news will pick up on it and start reporting about sick people and animals, deaths etc. This will be a really good time to pull your kids out of school(bacteria/virus breeding ground).

Make sure you have a decent stock of sanitizing wipes, Lysol or alternative spray and bleach, having a pump up sprayer with a bleach/water solution is good for decontamination. Start wearing hospital masks or better like the N95 and some type of gloves. If you cant handle Latex then get Nitrile or Vinyl gloves and do not rub or itch your eyes or nose or any other body orifices. If you have to go somewheres then decontaminate your vehicle upon your return and then decontaminate yourself. If you had to go buy something at this stage you will need to decontaminate the items before you bring them into the house, ideally you would quarantine the items beforehand.

In the real crappy but realistic event that someone in your group and/or family becomes sick. You want the ability to have a sick room and segregate the person. You do not want this person(s) around the general population of your group. One it will effect the groups moral, two it will be easy to spread/infect other members. I will attach some PDF books to give you more guidance on this subject.

View attachment BioChemAgentCharacteristics.pdf


View attachment Pandemic_Flu_Citizens_Guide.pdf


View attachment homecareguide.pdf


View attachment Medical%20-%20Isolation%20Planning.pdf


View attachment DeadBodiesFieldManual.pdf


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

NUCLEAR EVENT

CHARACTERISTICS OF NUCLEAR EXPLOSIONS
The four main characteristics of nuclear explosions are:

BLAST (an intense shock wave).

THERMAL RADIATION (heat and light).

NUCLEAR RADIATION (radioactive material).

EMP (electrical power surge).

Blast produces an intense shockwave and high winds that create flying debris. It may
collapse shelters and some fighting positions.

Thermal radiation causes burns and starts fires. The bright flash at the time of the explosion
can cause a temporary loss of vision or permanent eye damage if you look at the
explosion, especially at night.

Nuclear radiation can cause casualties and delay movements. It may last for days and
cover large areas of terrain. It occurs in two stages: Initial and Residual.

Initial radiation is emitted directly from the fireball in the first minute after the explosion. It travels at the speed of light along straight lines and has high penetrating power.

Residual radiation lingers after the first minute. It comes from the radioactive material originally in a nuclear weapon or from material, such as soil and equipment, made radioactive by the nuclear explosion.

EMP is a massive surge of electrical power. It is created the instant a nuclear detonation occurs and is transmitted at the speed of light in all directions. It can damage solid-state components of electrical equipment (radios, radars, computers, vehicles). Equipment can be protected by disconnecting it from its power source and placing it in or behind some type of shielding material (armored vehicle, dirt wall, Faraday Cage) out of the line of sight to the burst. If no warning is received prior to a detonation, there is no effective means of protecting operating equipment.

EFFECTS ON HUMANS
The exposure of the human body to nuclear radiation causes damage to the cells in all. parts of the body. This damage is the cause of "radiation sickness." The severity of this sickness
depends on the radiation dose received, the length of exposure, and the condition of the
body at the time. The early symptoms of radiation sickness will usually appear 1 to 6 hours
after exposure. Those symptoms may include headache, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea.
Early symptoms may then be followed by a latent period in which the symptoms disappear.
There is no first aid for you once you have been exposed to nuclear radiation. The only help is
to get as comfortable as possible while undergoing the early symptoms. If the radiation dose was small, the symptoms, if any, will probably go away and not recur. If the symptoms recur after a latent period, you should go to an medical station.

EFFECTS ON EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
Blast can crush sealed or partly sealed objects like food cans, barrels, fuel tanks, and helicopters. Rubble from buildings being knocked down can bury supplies and equipment.

Heat can ignite dry wood, fuel, tarpaulins, and other flammable material.

Light can damage eyesight.

Nuclear radiation can contaminate food and water.

PROTECTION AGAINST NUCLEAR ATTACKS
The best hasty protection against a nuclear attack is to take cover behind a hill or in a fighting
position, culvert, or ditch. If caught in the open, drop flat on the ground at once and close
your eyes. Cover exposed skin and keep your weapon under your body to avoid loss. If you
know the direction of the burst, drop with your head away from the burst. Stay down until the
blast wave passes, then check for injuries and equipment damage and prepare to continue the
mission.

Radiation is the only direct nuclear effect that lingers after the explosion. As it cannot be detected by the senses, use radiac equipment to detect its presence. If you must stay in the contaminated area, it is best to stay in a dug-in position with overhead cover. When time does not permit constructing a well-prepared overhead cover, use a poncho. Stay under cover. When the fallout has finished falling, brush contamination off yourself and your equipment. Wash yourself and your equipment as soon as the time permits.
How to Protect Yourself from Nuclear Fallout and Survive an Atomic Attack 





CDC video, lots of info, talks about radiation and life of fallout.





FAMILY FALLOUT SHELTERS: Nuclear War for Housewives - 1960s American Civil Defense Educational Film





Long story short for nuclear protection is get to cover immediately. If your in the blast zone and above ground your probably dead either from projectiles from the blast or thermal burns. If you are away from the blast zone then you have some time before the fallout gets to you. If your home and prepared then shelter in place or get to where you can be safe and secure and stay there.
If you are receiving fallout before you can get home then cover yourself the best that you can. Do not breath the fallout in or get it into your eyes, nose or mouth. Once you have arrived to your fallout shelter area then strip naked before entering your destinations residence(you do not want to bring the radioactive dust in with you) brush off and then shower with running water and soap. Pay attention to your hair, fingernails and any cracks or crevices. Once you are done I would run the water a few more minutes to flush any radioactive material out of the residences drain pipe .
You want to take plastic lining and cover all doors and windows with it and tape with duct tape and/or packing tape. I hope you have a basement to go to. Go to the basement corner closest to the blast zone and using furniture or other materials, make a shelter to further create mass between you and any radiation. Turn your furnace or air conditioner off. You do not want out side air being sucked into your residences right now. 
Now time will be your friend. Radiation will decay with time and if you paid attention to the videos you will have learned the ratio. To those that don't think that a nuclear war or even a nuclear power plant accident can be survived I just showed you that it can. First it takes knowledge and then planning and preparation.
To anybody wanting to learn more or confirm what was already stated then here is two links where I uploaded a crap load of nuclear related books from my library. A lot of them are older Civil Defense books, some are military manuals and the rest are civilian books all very good and relevant.

Prepperlink.com/index.php/forum/10-man-made-scenarios/26127-nuclear-war

preppergroups.com/forum/index.php?topic=1819.msg10145#msg10145

Browse the PDF books but pay attention to Life After Doomsday and Nuclear War Survival Skills. Both of these books are really good and has a lot of information directed to civilians. I decided I wanted hard copies of both of these and bought them.

Note: Part of this post: chemical/biological and nuclear was copied and altered/modified from the Army manual 21-75 Combat Skills of the Soldier.* It was quicker to just copy and paste some of the basic information and I modified, reworded it to fit into a tactical and civilian situation.


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## Targetshooter (Dec 4, 2015)

What mill plastic would be needed for windows and doors ?


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

Targetshooter said:


> What mill plastic would be needed for windows and doors ?


Really any will work. All you are doing is sealing any door or window leaks. I bought mine at Walmart in the painting section. I think it was .7 mils or something like that. I originally bought a smaller roll and later I was looking at them again and they had the big rolls on clearance for around half price so I loaded up on that.


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## Illini Warrior (Jan 24, 2015)

Targetshooter said:


> What mill plastic would be needed for windows and doors ?


good chance that whatever window/door cover that's applied - could be required to be a long term solution - there's specially engineered plastic sheeting for the purpose - "drop cloth" sheeting isn't going to last long ... prep correctly the first time and for the situation ....

Window Materials | Quality Plastic Products | Warp Bros.


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## Illini Warrior (Jan 24, 2015)

question - anyone go thru the thought process - or actually constructed - a outdoor / home pre entry washdown shower unit .... pandemic or nuke fallout scenario


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

Illini Warrior said:


> good chance that whatever window/door cover that's applied - could be required to be a long term solution - there's specially engineered plastic sheeting for the purpose - "drop cloth" sheeting isn't going to last long ... prep correctly the first time and for the situation ....
> 
> Window Materials | Quality Plastic Products | Warp Bros.


Looks like a nice product. Especially being made in the USA. To bad they don't sell to the consumer direct or have prices or give you the information to those they do sell to.

I think I will stick with the Husky brand that I bought. Its made in the USA. Its affordable and I am confident it will last more than a year. Because it is affordable and if it starts to deteriate I will just put more up over the sheeting that is already installed and still have a surplus in storage.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

Illini Warrior said:


> question - anyone go thru the thought process - or actually constructed - a outdoor / home pre entry washdown shower unit .... pandemic or nuke fallout scenario


I have done decontamination showers in the military both with vehicles and with personnel. For nuke/chemical showers for vehicles you basically have to get out of the area first. If you don't then the vehicle will just become contaminated again as soon as you start driving. For vehicle decontamination it is basically a car wash with soap. For chemical contamination you will use soap and a bleach additive.

For personnel your just basically taking a shower outside with everyone looking at your ass, LOL. They have a shower system set up in a sanitary location. Before you enter you decontaminate yourself and carefully remove your MOPP suit. You stand buck naked and the DECON team scrub you down with scrub brushes and soap and whatever needed chemicals (bleach). Once clean you step aside and receive a clean re issue of equipment, rally then continue the mission.

For my family and I, I would probably use my garage and then use my battery powered shower or if that got fried in an EMP then I have Army 5 gallon canvass buckets with a plastic shower head on the bottom and attach that to the ceiling of the garage. The bad part that I did not think of until now is the drainage of contaminated water. I don't have a drain in my garage so I am thinking that I will try to find a kiddy pool that has a drain on the side that I can attach a hose to so that it can be run under the garage door (seal garage door gap with rags or???) to the outside or something similar.

If you/anyone do not have a garage then maybe get one of those 10X10 canopies that you could set a shower up under right outside of the residence entrance. Maybe take some of that Husky brand plastic sheeting that you can buy at Walmart and tape some walls up on the canopy to keep a more clean environment.


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## stowlin (Apr 25, 2016)

Warp Bros are on Amazon with a lot of products. 
10x25 sheet is $30ish 
https://www.amazon.com/Warp-Brother...qid=1486315963&sr=8-21&keywords=warp+brothers



MaterielGeneral said:


> Looks like a nice product. Especially being made in the USA. To bad they don't sell to the consumer direct or have prices or give you the information to those they do sell to.
> 
> I think I will stick with the Husky brand that I bought. Its made in the USA. Its affordable and I am confident it will last more than a year. Because it is affordable and if it starts to deteriate I will just put more up over the sheeting that is already installed and still have a surplus in storage.


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## Illini Warrior (Jan 24, 2015)

MaterielGeneral said:


> Looks like a nice product. Especially being made in the USA. To bad they don't sell to the consumer direct or have prices or give you the information to those they do sell to.
> 
> I think I will stick with the Husky brand that I bought. Its made in the USA. Its affordable and I am confident it will last more than a year. Because it is affordable and if it starts to deteriate I will just put more up over the sheeting that is already installed and still have a surplus in storage.


Warps was one the original developers of poly sheeting - goes back to pre depression Chicago days .... they've had a beginning relation with the original Cotter/Ace Hardware and then True Value when it started up - rolls would definitely be available thru them - some larger stores would have a roll or two around for selling by the foot .... I've never seen it personally but I'm guessing the farm supply type chain stores are distributors also ....

if you've ever wondered where those gigantic poly bags come from - good chance they were Warp's .... up to 86" X 93" ....


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## RJAMES (Dec 23, 2016)

Illini Warrior said:


> question - anyone go thru the thought process - or actually constructed - a outdoor / home pre entry washdown shower unit .... pandemic or nuke fallout scenario


No not at home only while on Active Duty and since then many times with local civilian hospital and fire department. I worked with several hospitals to get them to have materials ready, trained staff and to exercise twice a year to be able to decon a patient be it from a civilian hazmat incident or an intentional incident in the last 17 years.

Nearest train track is 20 miles, state highway that might have a truck with chemicals 6 miles, highway that definitely has hazmat 45 miles . I do have some anhydrous ammonia portable tanks in the area that could be a problem if they just happen to have a problem in front of my place but very unlikely. No big storage tanks nearby.

The County Emergency Management Agency has a LEPC Local Emergency Planning Committee they have an inventory of what normally passes thru on local rail and roads, storage tank locations they plot for the quantity stored and what it is a likely hazard area You should look at your area for hazards. What has the local hospital and what are the local firefighters doing. Additionally there are state assets that can come and help just takes a long time same for private companies that with with trucking and rail lines.

So back to home- BUILDING New - think mud room lots of reasons to do this in a rural area a covered porch with a bench for taking on and off chore boots, hang up coveralls and then just inside the heated space a shower with laundry set up. Doesn't have to be fancy just tiled room with a floor drain and a hand held shower head will do . This keeps lot of mud, 'stuff' you wish was just mud and crud out of the house. You drop the boots and hang up the coveralls or walk in and throw them right in the wash then shower.

The home I grew up in had a door to the outside to the basement , washer was downstairs and drained into a floor drain there was a shower head right there and a concrete floor. Mom never let us come into the house from outside unless we went thru that way no wearing muddy cloths or boots into her house and yes you stink you shower before you come upstairs into the house.

I have a frost free hose bib, hose with sprayer just outside the door to my basement that has a covered porch I could do a rough wash, strip , then another wash with hot water and soap after coming into the basement as my current home was built the same way.

Should we survive the initial blast, got a target 20 miles away straight line distance , we should survive the fall out. We are upwind / prevailing wind from the target . Winds should push fall out north east from the target and we are south west of it. Anyway if we survive that I think in the concrete room in the concrete basement we got a chance.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

Illini Warrior said:


> good chance that whatever window/door cover that's applied - could be required to be a long term solution - there's specially engineered plastic sheeting for the purpose - "drop cloth" sheeting isn't going to last long ... prep correctly the first time and for the situation ....
> 
> Window Materials | Quality Plastic Products | Warp Bros.





stowlin said:


> Warp Bros are on Amazon with a lot of products.
> 10x25 sheet is $30ish
> https://www.amazon.com/Warp-Brother...qid=1486315963&sr=8-21&keywords=warp+brothers


I am not going to dispute the fact that Warp Brothers is a very good product but for a 10'X25' piece of plastic sheeting(just using this quoted sample) I don't think so. A lot of, heck most preppers prep on a budget. I bought 10'X100' .7mil made in the USA Husky brand at Walmart for $5.00.

All your trying to do is cover windows and doors to prevent bad stuff from coming in your residence. It does not need to be made like iron, it just needs to work.


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## Illini Warrior (Jan 24, 2015)

MaterielGeneral said:


> I am not going to dispute the fact that Warp Brothers is a very good product but for a 10'X25' piece of plastic sheeting(just using this quoted sample) I don't think so. A lot of, heck most preppers prep on a budget. I bought 10'X100' .7mil made in the USA Husky brand at Walmart for $5.00.
> 
> All your trying to do is cover windows and doors to prevent bad stuff from coming in your residence. It does not need to be made like iron, it just needs to work.


prep correctly the first time and for the situation ...

never experienced trying to replace crapped out plastic sheeting in the dead of a Upper Midwest winter? - ah?

.7mil sheeting is what's used for sandwich bags - I'm closing up broken windows from the elements and possibly fallout - not wrapping a PB & J sandwich


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

Illini Warrior said:


> prep correctly the first time and for the situation ...
> 
> never experienced trying to replace crapped out plastic sheeting in the dead of a Upper Midwest winter? - ah?
> 
> .7mil sheeting is what's used for sandwich bags - I'm closing up broken windows from the elements and possibly fallout - not wrapping a PB & J sandwich


I'm just going to come to terms with the fact we have two different opinions and were not going to agree. You go spend $30.00 for your 10x25' sheet of plastic and I will spend $5.00 for my 10x100' sheet of plastic. I am confident my choice will do the job but if I have to I will double it up and/or put plywood on the outside of the house window frame.

As for replacing plastic window covers in the Michigan winter cant say that I have. I have been blessed with very good windows in all the homes that I have owned. Now back on the farm when I was growing up I do vaguely remember plastic on some of the windows but even that plastic lasted just fine.


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## MaterielGeneral (Jan 27, 2015)

P.S.
I don't know why but when I "replied with quote" it added the peanut butter statement. I am assuming you edited your post but the website system kept the statement in limbo.


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## BellaCassels (Feb 16, 2017)

Not sure if it's been mentioned yet, but you ought to get a top quality water filter. Good to have for the flouride and also the trace pesticides that have been found in so many people's water (we live near a farming area) but now that I know a bit more about prepping, I realize my water filter's gonna be real useful if there's a major bacteria event (and with nuclear - any solids in the water with radioactive charge will be filtered as well) - I have a Big Berkey countertop water filter that can filter basically everything.


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## JohnMorrow (Feb 11, 2017)

paraquack said:


> Israel has used the "hide in a bathroom, plastic of window/door and seal with duct tape" for years.
> It works for chemical spills. Not so much for radiation. Radiation requires shielding, really thick
> shielding, see the pix.
> View attachment 38057
> ...


So basically you'll need to see out 48 hours? Before the dose level isn't crazy high? I'd assume after that point the radiation wouldn't be lethal any more?


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