# Felling Axe



## Redneck (Oct 6, 2016)

In my quest to be more prepared to weather a SHTF situation, I have added more hand tools. My most recent acquisition is a real beauty and proudly American made. It is the Council Tool Velvicut felling axe. I did research regarding crosscut saws & the like, but seems upkeep on them would be a bit too much for me, so I went back to basics with the axe. I say basics but this baby is a real workhorse. This should work great with my Fiskars splitting axe, which is an amazing tool in its own right.

Working with an axe is great exercise... even for an old fart like me.


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

I have a nice felling axe, and a slightly lighter, shorter handled axe.
They are both out in the barn, I'm pulling on my boots to leave for work in less than 10 minutes so I can't check brand names. Maybe Vermont American? they are both almost 50 years old.

I still like my Husqvarna chain saw though.


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## Redneck (Oct 6, 2016)

rice paddy daddy said:


> I still like my Husqvarna chain saw though.


Amen to that, however my go to saw, for normal duty is the lithium powered EGO. So convenient & still powerful.


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## Real Old Man (Aug 17, 2015)

While an axe may be the ticket for felling a tree, cutting it up into usable lengths for a stove or fireplace it's best to have either a buck saw https://www.lehmans.com/product/hickory-bucksaw/wood-cutting-hauling or a bow saw https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-10-30-23-30-Inch-Ergo-Green/dp/B0001IX7TW. I've got a couple of bow saws and a Japanese style pruning saw https://www.amazon.com/Samurai-Ichiban-Pruning-Scabbard-GC-330-LH/dp/B001BAFD6E that has a really sharp set of teeth


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## Illini Warrior (Jan 24, 2015)

don't forget the maintenance side of the tool - sharpening file and stone - extra handle - wedges - linseed oil - ect ect ....


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## Targetshooter (Dec 4, 2015)

@******* , great ideal , I have a m48 battle axe I use , I got it from BUDK.com - Knives & Swords At The Lowest Prices! . I like it very much .


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Has anybody taken a chainsaw designed for a longer Guide Bar/Chain and put a shorter Guide Bar/Chain on it to increase power of the cut? 

For example I've got a 20" Stihl Farm Boss. What are the physics of replacing the 20" bar/chain with for example a 16" bar/chain or shorter to get more power out of the saw when doing small diameter wood cut jobs quicker?


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## Redneck (Oct 6, 2016)

Illini Warrior said:


> don't forget the maintenance side of the tool - sharpening file and stone - extra handle - wedges - linseed oil - ect ect ....


Most assuredly & one reason why I have the axe, in that I can sharpen an axe much easier than a crosscut saw.


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

Slippy said:


> Has anybody taken a chainsaw designed for a longer Guide Bar/Chain and put a shorter Guide Bar/Chain on it to increase power of the cut?
> 
> For example I've got a 20" Stihl Farm Boss. What are the physics of replacing the 20" bar/chain with for example a 16" bar/chain or shorter to get more power out of the saw when doing small diameter wood cut jobs quicker?


It can be done, but you have to make sure the sprocket spacing is correct.

I change my husky 24 to 18 at times.

IMO, there is no change in HP to the cut, no gear ratios to change and drive sprocket remains the same.

Only change is less chain drag on the bar.


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

For serious logging by hand, you need a two man saw, 4X faster than an ax, less waste.

I have axes, wedges, mauls, and saws, PV's plus all the tools to service them.

They are my backup to the chainsaws and hydraulic log splitter.

The saws are made by Simonds Saw and Steel Co.


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## Camel923 (Aug 13, 2014)

A good collection of hand tools is a sensible idea.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

For logging or firewood by hand you should have a bunch of tools many have already been mentioned:

1 or 2 good single bit axes
Wedges, both metal and wood/plastic, and mauls and sledge
Crosscut saw (large 1 man w/handle for a 2nd man, two man if you get into big stuff), felling saw (flexible two man), 3-4ft bow-type cordwood saw w/extra blades.
Peavy and log cant.
Large pry bars
Chains , cables, bull rope, block and tackle, and comealong.
Files and stones for sharpening, pointset for saws. The files for the saws triangular or half-rounds. A jig to hold the saws for sharpening.
Logdogs
A drawknife is handy for fitting axe/maul/sledge handles

If you need to build with the wood traditional tools for timberframing/cabin building.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

Slippy said:


> Has anybody taken a chainsaw designed for a longer Guide Bar/Chain and put a shorter Guide Bar/Chain on it to increase power of the cut?
> 
> For example I've got a 20" Stihl Farm Boss. What are the physics of replacing the 20" bar/chain with for example a 16" bar/chain or shorter to get more power out of the saw when doing small diameter wood cut jobs quicker?


A chainsaw will cut a little quicker with a shorter bar. I know this from chainsaw milling. But for croscuts sometimes the longer bar comes in handy for reach, the extra teeth help prolong the time between sharpenings, but it takes longer to sharpen the extra teeth.

An important thing is to use a chain that matches the power of the sawhead. 0.325 pitch generally for smaller saws, 0.375 for larger and 0.404 for the big monsters. Little tiny ones work best with 0.375 picco/lopro. You can fit smaller chain to a large saw and it will cut faster, but you have to be careful as snapping a chain can put a hurting on you.

I've used 0.375 picco/lopro when milling with a 95cc saw and it does cut faster and has a smaller kerf (more boards less sawdust). Don't try this with cheap chains.

Another consideration is the style of cutters and rakers. "Safety" chain has different style rakers to help prevent kickback and is recommended for those without much experience sawing, it's also a PITA the file the rakers down as the chain wears. The main cutter styles are chisel and semi-chisel, chisel will cut faster but will also dull quicker of you hit any dirt/stones/debris. You can also make chisel cut even faster by "square grinding" when filing/sharpening the cutters, but this is also not for novices.

My best advice is to just match your bar/chain to the saw, keep the chain out of the dirt, and sharpen the chain as soon as you notice it cutting slower or not throwing good chips.


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## 8301 (Nov 29, 2014)

Slippy said:


> Has anybody taken a chainsaw designed for a longer Guide Bar/Chain and put a shorter Guide Bar/Chain on it to increase power of the cut?
> 
> For example I've got a 20" Stihl Farm Boss. What are the physics of replacing the 20" bar/chain with for example a 16" bar/chain or shorter to get more power out of the saw when doing small diameter wood cut jobs quicker?


You won't get any more power but the saw becomes a bit easier to handle with the shorter bar. Go online and you can usually find charts that will show what bars and chain will fit.


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## bigwheel (Sep 22, 2014)

Mighty fine display of tools. Think I might have to have the lithium chain saw. Never heard of such a thing.


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## Redneck (Oct 6, 2016)

bigwheel said:


> Mighty fine display of tools. Think I might have to have the lithium chain saw. Never heard of such a thing.


You know, these new lithium powered tools really impress me. They are not for folks clearing a forest all day, every day. But if you have a few trees, even rather large ones, and want to cut them into firewood length, this tool is perfect. The batteries can share between several different products. I also have their mower for small jobs, like when I cut the dog pen or the chicken run. The lithium mower is much lighter than my gas one & I can easily pick it up & put in the back of my Gator. Doing so with my gas one was dangerously heavy to do like that. I also have a lithium pole saw, from Greenworks, which I use a whole lot around the farm. Few weeks ago I used that pole saw to clean saplings from around the banks of my pond. Cool thing is, you can take out the center 3' section and by doing so the saw goes from 8' tall to 5'... which is a perfect height for me to cut saplings at ground level without all the constant bending.

I still have my gas tools & no doubt, they are more powerful. However as I'm sure you know, they can be fussy to start & are loud. Kinda like anything else, use the right tool for the right job. My point is, these are really nice tools.


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## Maol9 (Mar 20, 2015)

******* said:


> Amen to that, however my go to saw, for normal duty is the lithium powered EGO. So convenient & still powerful.


Just cut and split 'Two Batteries' worth of fire wood myself for the 'Saturday Night Fire' out back. I love my Ego Chain Saw!


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Oregon also makes a battery powered self sharpening chainsaw.
https://oregoncordless.com/product/chain-saw-cs300/


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## Grinch2 (Sep 12, 2016)

Slippy said:


> Has anybody taken a chainsaw designed for a longer Guide Bar/Chain and put a shorter Guide Bar/Chain on it to increase power of the cut?
> 
> For example I've got a 20" Stihl Farm Boss. What are the physics of replacing the 20" bar/chain with for example a 16" bar/chain or shorter to get more power out of the saw when doing small diameter wood cut jobs quicker?


I mostly use a 372 Husqvarna for felling with a 28 inch bar on it, I also have a Wild Thing for little stuff, we do have what we called our Snot-Saw it's a 395 with a 28 inch bar on it. Recommended length is 36, we never ran a 36 on it so can't truthfully compare, but I think after having seen other 395's run I think it gives it more torque, no speed increases though ( or so I'd imagine ). But you do have to be careful because if you put a smaller bar on you could bust the chain if you get into some harder stuff. Kinda of like necking a 50 cal down to 22 cal, it doesn't always fly good 

Nice ax though *******, we have several older wooden handled axes but for true chopping axes I use Fiskar, their splitting axes are nice and sharp, but too light for some applications, for a splitting maul I use my 18lb custom made maul which is just based off of the old Monster Maul design. In my mind you can't beat a Fiskar, they're cheap, but also highly well made, handles are hell-proof and they're incredibly sharp, brand new they'll shave the hairs off of your arm.

Council Tool is really good, my fiance just got me their 12lb cross pein sledge, have yet to use it but I can't wait to do so. Best of luck with it !


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## bigwheel (Sep 22, 2014)

Ok..yall are making me want to buy this stuff to help the guest worker tree trimmers. We got scalded by a shyster Tongan here while back. I am still mad over that. Not sure yall ever been around any Tongons. They are all about 6-5 250 lbs. And thats the wimmen. The guys are really big. They are all as friendly as yard dogs..but they will come onto your vacant lot and dig a hole and roast a pig. They make a living cutting trees. Not sure how we bumped into the scammy guy..other than the Warden thought he was ok. She thinks she is a good judge of character but she is wrong more than right.


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## Illini Warrior (Jan 24, 2015)

Real Old Man said:


> While an axe may be the ticket for felling a tree, cutting it up into usable lengths for a stove or fireplace it's best to have either a buck saw https://www.lehmans.com/product/hickory-bucksaw/wood-cutting-hauling or a bow saw https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-10-30-23-30-Inch-Ergo-Green/dp/B0001IX7TW. I've got a couple of bow saws and a Japanese style pruning saw https://www.amazon.com/Samurai-Ichiban-Pruning-Scabbard-GC-330-LH/dp/B001BAFD6E that has a really sharp set of teeth


that .... and in SHTF situations your additional labor force will include know-nothing numb nutz - give those guys a handsaw and hope they don't hurt themselves ....


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## Illini Warrior (Jan 24, 2015)

rice paddy daddy said:


> I have a nice felling axe, and a slightly lighter, shorter handled axe.
> They are both out in the barn, I'm pulling on my boots to leave for work in less than 10 minutes so I can't check brand names. Maybe Vermont American? they are both almost 50 years old.
> 
> I still like my Husqvarna chain saw though.


chainsaws and log splitters will be some of the last small engine tools to be abandoned due to a severe SHTF .... the need the wood will increase but the labor force and time devotion will be reduced ... they are a couple of better labor multipliers out there ....


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

bigwheel said:


> Ok..yall are making me want to buy this stuff to help the guest worker tree trimmers. We got scalded by a shyster Tongan here while back. I am still mad over that. Not sure yall ever been around any Tongons. They are all about 6-5 250 lbs. And thats the wimmen. The guys are really big. They are all as friendly as yard dogs..but they will come onto your vacant lot and dig a hole and roast a pig. They make a living cutting trees. Not sure how we bumped into the scammy guy..other than the Warden thought he was ok. She thinks she is a good judge of character but she is wrong more than right.


Start right here. Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's

They have ALL sorts of outdoor tools beyond just chainsaws. Even professional lumberjack equipment. I have been a customer for years and highly recommend them.
Need a peavey? Or climbing spikes? I really don't, but Bailey's has that, and much more.

Heck, I keep their catalog in the john for when I need reading material.:vs_peace:

***WARNING to my friend Slippy - give your credit card to your wife to hold before you visit Bailey's website****


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## Maine-Marine (Mar 7, 2014)

******* said:


> In my quest to be more prepared to weather a SHTF situation, I have added more hand tools. My most recent acquisition is a real beauty and proudly American made. It is the Council Tool Velvicut felling axe. I did research regarding crosscut saws & the like, but seems upkeep on them would be a bit too much for me, so I went back to basics with the axe. I say basics but this baby is a real workhorse. This should work great with my Fiskars splitting axe, which is an amazing tool in its own right.
> 
> Working with an axe is great exercise... even for an old fart like me.


don't be silly detcord works more better for tree felling


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## Redneck (Oct 6, 2016)

Maine-Marine said:


> don't be silly detcord works more better for tree felling


But ain't as purty.


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

Hell, I have cut down trees with 7.92 and 30M2 out of belts.

By hand though, a two man saw is the best.

Sharpening and setting are not that hard or complex.

If you use a hand saw, you need to debark the area you use the saw on.

The bark has sand within it that will dull the teeth.


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## Maine-Marine (Mar 7, 2014)

******* said:


> But ain't as purty.


well.. it makes its own kindling - lol


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## Arklatex (May 24, 2014)

Slippy said:


> Has anybody taken a chainsaw designed for a longer Guide Bar/Chain and put a shorter Guide Bar/Chain on it to increase power of the cut?
> 
> For example I've got a 20" Stihl Farm Boss. What are the physics of replacing the 20" bar/chain with for example a 16" bar/chain or shorter to get more power out of the saw when doing small diameter wood cut jobs quicker?


I have done it to my old Poulan after I bought a full size Stihl. I don't notice any performance increase but it sure makes for a handy little limbing saw.


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

I have a Collins single bit that I got from my father, a double bit that I 'd have to go out and look. A good 24-36 inch bow saw will do more than you need. Good advice on clearing off the bark first. I've ran sawmills and bark will tear up teeth faster than anything. jmo.


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## TG (Jul 28, 2014)

@******* That's a beautiful axe! I only have a machete, a saw and a couple of different pocket knives. Unfortunately my Canadian hubby does not share my love for prepping, so my tools are limited for now. When I fly back home, we have everything we need, thanks to my family


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## erengare (May 7, 2018)

I have the same ax https://bestoutdooritems.com/best-felling-axe/ I used it to destroy dead and dried trees, and he did a good job of it. He has great power, I took a tree with a diameter of 6 inches, not so much time, this line of Fiskar is also quite cheap, and both can be for $ 50- $ 60 together. Yesterday, I revised old videos on Youtube 



 one thing might be useful for you


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## aliciahelfan (Oct 1, 2018)

This video says everything


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