# Questions about AR Lowers and triggers



## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

I have a question about AR lowers. As you know I'm thinking of building a new AR for target practice. I have a question about the trigger.
On my go to rifle I installed a new trigger assembly that had the contact points nickle plated and polished. I couldn't believe how good it felt compared to the stock set up. For this build I'm also going to install a 4.5 pound pull spring set. I had this spring set up on my go to rifle but took it out for safety. I know I might be wrong but I just didn't feel comfortable with a light trigger on a rifle that might go into battle. (I'm a sissy?)

To me the polished trigger set and a 4.5 spring set were really nice. But I don't have anything to compare it to. I'm still sort of new to ARs and high powered rifles in general. 

So my question is this, For a novice shooter like myself are $200 - $300 trigger set ups worth the money compared to polished triggers and a spring kit? 

And what other modifications should I consider for a lower that will be used for target shooting.

I have been shooting on a regular basis since I was 7 (my dad took me hunting quite a bit) and we shot just for fun sometimes.
But a 22LR and a shotgun seemed to cover everything I needed a gun for. knowing that using a rifle might be necessary to survive and protect my family is all the motivation I need to get the hang of a rifle. So my rifle experience is all within the last few years. 

Ok talk to me about what I need far as a lower goes.


----------



## Chiefster23 (Feb 5, 2016)

It is possible to highly polish your own trigger parts to velvety smoothness. Get an ultra-flat surface ( a sheet of glass works) and several different grades of wet/dry sandpaper. Glue the sandpaper sheets to the glass and polish away. I polish my triggers down to a mirror shine. No kidding! I can actually see a reflection the the polished surfaces. This results in a very smooth trigger pull but does nothing for trigger weight, pre, or over travel.

I purchased and installed a Geissele trigger (their lowest price model) and I wasn’t really impressed. It certainly was not worth the $165 price. I tested some other triggers at a gun shop display and was very impressed with CMG (maybe CMS?) triggers.

But my ARs are not for competition or precision target shooting. So I have concluded that my self-polished triggers are very suitable for my guns’ intended purposes. Your milage may vary.


----------



## Chiefster23 (Feb 5, 2016)

If you are new to polishing, or unsure of where to start, do some research on how to sharpen woodworking tools like chisels and plane blades. I learned on my own from books on the subject. It’s not hard and the methods lend themselves well to trigger work.


----------



## RedLion (Sep 23, 2015)

You can definitely polish a stock trigger yourself. Another option besides polishing and buying a $200 trigger is to get a ALG combat trigger (super popular)....ALG Defense Combat Trigger-ACT 05-199 or PSA polished trigger for $29.99....PSA AR15/PA10 EPT - Enhanced Polished Fire Control Group - 507797


----------



## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

4.5 should be fine for you day to day or range use. If you polish the trigger parts, remember a little goes a long way. nothing stronger than a wet 1200-1500 grit you only have two small areas that would need a little clean up.
Some would want a MAGPUL type trigger guard it is slight enlarged more room for a gloved finger. Someone may also want a different pistol grip that fits the hand better. A But stock that is flat and angle down instead of round provides a better cheek weld.
Improved hold for better shooting.


----------



## Chiefster23 (Feb 5, 2016)

Correction to my above post. Should read “CMC trigger”


----------



## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

I wouldn't be worried with a lighter trigger pull on a rifle.
Any gun that spends its time out of a holster should always have a safety switch engaged until the shooter is on target and ready to shoot.
Having an exposed trigger demands a backup safety mechanism. Your own trigger discipline should keep your finger out of there, but you may not notice if something else encroaches.


----------



## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

This is an ok video not full of a lot of BS.





I have a couple of these triggers they also work very well of all uses. More thatn just chnaging spring and some clean up worth it to some.
JP - EZ Trigger™ System


----------



## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

RedLion said:


> You can definitely polish a stock trigger yourself. Another option besides polishing and buying a $200 trigger is to get a ALG combat trigger (super popular)....ALG Defense Combat Trigger-ACT 05-199 or PSA polished trigger for $29.99....PSA AR15/PA10 EPT - Enhanced Polished Fire Control Group - 507797


Yes that's the kit I used the PSA kit,-- which just happens to be on sale right now polished and nickle plated (looks like chrome) super slick

PSA AR15/PA10 EPT - Enhanced Polished Fire Control Group - 507797








$30


----------



## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

One more thing on modifying Triggers. Bobbing the hammer. You will come across it. Some like the EZ trigger are bobbed. I have seen no real reason to cut one if all you want it to clean it up and reduce the pull.


----------



## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

Smitty901 said:


> One more thing on modifying Triggers. Bobbing the hammer. You will come across it. Some like the EZ trigger are bobbed. I have seen no real reason to cut one if all you want it to clean it up and reduce the pull.


 Yes I been watching some videos on the triggers and I saw a few on you tube bobbing the hammer. They said with a lighter hammer spring that some times that it created to light of a hammer strike. I was thinking that a lighter hammer wouldn't have as much punch as a heavy one. But guess that a lighter hammer gets up more speed and makes a better strike. -- That sound right?-- Anyways I'm going to run my hammer all stock and see what happens. I'll see for myself. <--touch of *******)

Anyone here ever have to bob a hammer to prevent light strikes?


----------



## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

budgetprepp-n said:


> Yes I been watching some videos on the triggers and I saw a few on you tube bobbing the hammer. They said with a lighter hammer spring that some times that it created to light of a hammer strike. I was thinking that a lighter hammer wouldn't have as much punch as a heavy one. But guess that a lighter hammer gets up more speed and makes a better strike. -- That sound right?-- Anyways I'm going to run my hammer all stock and see what happens. I'll see for myself. <--touch of *******)
> 
> Anyone here ever have to bob a hammer to prevent light strikes?


 I own 3 with bobbed hammers and several without no issue with either Seems long as you don't go to light on the spring it is not much of an issue.


----------



## RedLion (Sep 23, 2015)

It is not unusual to get light strikes and failure to fire from some steel cased ammo, such as Tula with a stock trigger assembly. Just to keep in mind. I have an extended firing pin in my AR 7.62x39 just to better allow shooting steel cased ammo.


----------



## dwight55 (Nov 9, 2012)

Take a look at this one:

https://wisconsintrigger.com/product/mk-ii-a1-ar-15-national-match-trigger-system/

It is very near my M1A loaded match trigger, . . . and I had to do nothing but put it in place, . . .

For my purposes (coyote and vermin hunting), . . . this is a sweet trigger. A little pricey, . . . but I thought it was worth it.

As far as the lower is concerned, . . . JoeBob outfitters carry Stag products. My Stag lower and upper match up like they were hand made and polished just for each other, . . . and the price is darn near unbeatable.

May God bless,
Dwight


----------

