# I'm your Huckleberry.



## The Tourist

I'm still stuck at home getting over an infection. I have all the time in the world to waste this forum's bandwidth. Pick a topic, I guarantee I'll chew your ear off. As for me, my knives are all sharp, and as I've noted, I think my collection is complete.


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## Marica

Szankovits Knives-house Museum

I have a question about this knife. It's the second one from this company I have. (The first was confiscated by Israeli police so I no longer have it. Best knife ever.) I'm having a lot of difficulty loosening it up. It's hard for me to open. What should I do to get it easier to open that won't mess it up?

Sorry. Should have included a ruler. The blade is about 3 1/2".


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## The Tourist

Well, it looks like a "slip joint." Meaning, the tension on the pivot keeps it open, or makes it more reluctant to close on your fingers.

If the knife is indeed hard to open, my guess is that the pivot area needs to be cleaned. I would find something akin to a degreaser, and then rinse the knife out thoroughly--washing a knife is proper, you just have to make sure you blow out all of the rinse water.

I also have oils for knives, the two I use are "Quick Release" and "Tuf-Glide." They come in a pen-like clear plastic vial with a needle like applicator tip. Just a drop will make the pivot easier to use. Let me know if this works. If not, we'll look into other ideas.

https://www.amazon.com/Sentry-Solut...=B0062Y9BLM&psc=1&refRID=0KR9KE548WYCQKRE4ZNN


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## Marica

Thanks!

Degreaser. Greased lightening? Or Dawn soapy water? Would water harm the wood?


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## The Tourist

Marica said:


> Would water harm the wood?


If you drench it, possibly. We have carving knives here that have been soaked in soapy water for decades.

When I am in doubt, I slice open a baggie to a square sheet of plastic and tightly wrap the handle, then seal it with blue tape. It's not something that needs weekly or monthly care. If dirt is an issue, it's more of a twice-per-year problem.


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## Slippy

The Tourist said:


> I'm still stuck at home getting over an infection. I have all the time in the world to waste this forum's bandwidth. Pick a topic, I guarantee I'll chew your ear off. As for me, my knives are all sharp, and as I've noted, I think my collection is complete.


I'd like to hear some stories about your Motor Cycle Club days...if you care to share.

If not, what is your take on what happened to Wisconsin to turn it so darn liberal? Especially the University of Wisconsin at Madison? I used to deal with an Accounting firm out of Madison (back in my "corporate" days) and while the people that I dealt with were generally good people, they and I were worlds apart regarding personal freedom and liberty, property rights, gun ownership etc.

Matter of fact, my last 2 years dealing with this firm, the managing director of the firm asked if I would mind if they changed accountants that worked with me. No problem I said, but asked if there was a problem with the guy I had been dealing with for the past number of years. He said a resounding NO...that they had hired a young accountant and the kid asked if he could work with my account...simple as that.

So after the new kid completed the first audit we were having a couple of drinks at a local bar, I think it was called the Great Dane or something like that? Anyway, I asked him, why did you want to work with my account? He replied, "Slippy, you had the reputation of being a southern conservative gun nut with all the other accountants, don't get me wrong, they all liked you but that was your reputation amongst the firm.

OK, I said, but why did you pick my account?

The kid replied, "even tough I'm not southern, I was raised conservative on a farm in rural Wisconsin. I own guns and am learning about the Constitution and I can't talk to anyone at work about stuff like that...so I figured if I had clients who were like me it'd be a good thing."

He did me a great job. I hope he is doing well.

Anyway, very sad that Madison has to be so messed up...


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## The Tourist

Slippy said:


> I'd like to hear some stories about your Motor Cycle Club days...if you care to share.


Funny you should ask. In the "other forum" I was taken to task about the "old days." Let me give this some thought.


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## keith9365

1%er?


The Tourist said:


> Funny you should ask. In the "other forum" I was taken to task about the "old days." Let me give this some thought.


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## The Tourist

keith9365 said:


> 1%er?


Not in the least. The CC Riders were formed by Bob Smith for the purpose of being a club, but also working in the community. We even rode with the Dane County police bikers.


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## Deebo

The Tourist said:


> Funny you should ask. In the "other forum" I was taken to task about the "old days." Let me give this some thought.


Well, are you gonna tell us a story? I truly enjoy your posts, so I know I wanna hear some?


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## Mad Trapper

Not quite Huckleberry but I'm doing more blue berries.

Putting in some Chandlers, Jerseys, Patriots, Bluerays, Eary Blue. Some are bare roots, others I started in pots and will go into ground this year. The latter have been making berries a few years now.

I also bought some Sasakatsoon (Sp?) "blueberries", which are like blueberries in size, but are more closely related to apples; supposed to grow to 12'. Anybody grown these? I just found out apple diseases like cedar apple rust will effect/infect them.

Been a wet spring here, everything late and cleanup/planting too.

Looking for morels this afternoon......

Mr Tourist, a knife question?

I've got some knife blanks left and in the past some of the nicest handles I made were of osage staves.. No osage here but I have mullberry I can mill or burn, which is much like osage. Ever work with mullberry for handles?

I'm trying to make some simple stuff for the kitchen that won't rot and the blanks I got were Russel Green River from TOTW. Their stainless is tough, fought cobalt bits for rivet holes:

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/453/1/BLADE-BEAR-04

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/453/2/BLADE-SPEAR-03

https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/453/1/BLADE-BON-06


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## The Tourist

Mad Trapper said:


> Mr Tourist, a knife question? Ever work with mullberry for handles?


No, I haven't. Then again, I concentrate on the "pointy end" of the knife. I use Ken Schwartz products and the special stones he got directly from Japan so I could push the limit on refined edges.


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## Mad Trapper

The Tourist said:


> No, I haven't. Then again, I concentrate on the "pointy end" of the knife. I use Ken Schwartz products and the special stones he got directly from Japan so I could push the limit on refined edges.


Those first two links I posted for the stainless blanks were wonderful knife steels from Russel Green River. I want more for a set, a very hard stainless, the third will be a utility/carver.

The handles I want to be "sink proof", hence osage/mullberry.


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## The Tourist

I did inherit a set of knife grips in osage orange about +20 years ago. Beautiful pieces of wood. Since I'm more of a folder guy, I never found the right fixed blade blank that would work on those grips. If memory serves me (and it often doesn't) I think the best man at my wedding got the grips. He and his wife are deer hunters and live in a great Kettle Moraine area near Portage.


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## bigwheel

Let us discuss the Gap Theory. Seems like some smart sounding folks dont hold with it. 
https://carm.org/gap-theory


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## Mad Trapper

I think I posted these pics before, but here is a paring knife, and what I'll use as steak slicers on the dinner table ,w/osage handles.

I've got lots of black cherry so might do some handles in that.

Goal is to have ~ dozen of each.

I'll have to dry some mullberry and see how that looks when finished. I think a set with 3~4 types of wood , would look nice. I used real brass, hand smashed rivets, on the handles.

I'll do the same with the larger carving blades but only half as many. Then maybe 1 or 2 big ones.









The stainless is crazy hard stuff, even hard to drill with cobalt bits.

I have not tried to get a super fine "Mr Tourist" edge in these (that is crazy sharp $#!t! Mr T!), and I'm sure I will never be able to match his skills in that area.

But I do have a set of diamond stones and also an expensive set of Arkansas stones in medium, fine and extra fine. I hope that will do for the dinner table.


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## The Tourist

Mad Trapper said:


> But I do have a set of diamond stones and also an expensive set of Arkansas stones in medium, fine and extra fine. I hope that will do for the dinner table.


I get all my slurries, nanodiamond pastes and stones from Ken Schwartz. 209-612-2790.

When you call him, tell him what you'll be doing with your edges and he'll get you the correct abrasives. If you like the finish on my knives, discuss that with him, also. He can get you the same products.


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## Marica

The Tourist said:


> Well, it looks like a "slip joint." Meaning, the tension on the pivot keeps it open, or makes it more reluctant to close on your fingers.
> 
> If the knife is indeed hard to open, my guess is that the pivot area needs to be cleaned. I would find something akin to a degreaser, and then rinse the knife out thoroughly--washing a knife is proper, you just have to make sure you blow out all of the rinse water.
> 
> I also have oils for knives, the two I use are "Quick Release" and "Tuf-Glide." They come in a pen-like clear plastic vial with a needle like applicator tip. Just a drop will make the pivot easier to use. Let me know if this works. If not, we'll look into other ideas.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Sentry-Solut...=B0062Y9BLM&psc=1&refRID=0KR9KE548WYCQKRE4ZNN


Okay. I bought the Tuf Glide and forgot all about it.

I sprayed the knife with greased lightening and rinsed it with warm water. I then used a needle to clean out minuscule bits of what I'd call slightly oily pocket lint (smaller than the eye of the needle). Dropped a few drops everywhere that looked appropriate. Still not right.









That's what the side looks like closed.









Here you see two things. 1) the act of opening the knife pushes the side out, it's no longer flush with the handle; 2) the Tuf Glide at the pivot is dirty-- greyish. Does that mean anything?

Thoughts?


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## The Tourist

By "side" do you men that portion on the SPINE of the knife as shown in the bottom picture?

If so, that spine is actually a SPRING. It puts resistance on the pivot area of the knife. It is designed to do that. Your knife is not falling apart.

As for the gunk, it just means that there is old, soiled lubricants still in the knife. You just have to keep applying thin oil to the area and letting it 'drool' out. Over time the oil running out will be clear. That's the best time to really scrub a folder with hot soapy water. Then a hard rinse and a blast of air. I use a blower designed to blow water off of a motorcycle. That blower dries a soapy wet knife in less than a minute, your outfit might take a tad more time.

Too bad you do not live in Wisconsin. The issues you have outlined are simply "routine maintenance."

If you'd like--and have two knives--you can ship me that knife, I can service it and even polish the edge. I am a sales and service one-man knife outlet--and I have credentials. I do these same chores for my clients.


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## Marica

I figured out how it works-- just didn't know the terminology-- so I know it's not falling apart! But it's still crazy hard to open & close. But you're saying to keep working with it-- opening and closing, thin oil, and over time it will get easier, right? 

It's not my carry knife right now so I'm in no hurry. But thanks for the offer. If I still can't get it after a while I might take you up on it.


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## bigwheel

Mad Trapper said:


> Not quite Huckleberry but I'm doing more blue berries.
> 
> Putting in some Chandlers, Jerseys, Patriots, Bluerays, Eary Blue. Some are bare roots, others I started in pots and will go into ground this year. The latter have been making berries a few years now.
> 
> I also bought some Sasakatsoon (Sp?) "blueberries", which are like blueberries in size, but are more closely related to apples; supposed to grow to 12'. Anybody grown these? I just found out apple diseases like cedar apple rust will effect/infect them.
> 
> Been a wet spring here, everything late and cleanup/planting too.
> 
> Looking for morels this afternoon......
> 
> Mr Tourist, a knife question?
> 
> I've got some knife blanks left and in the past some of the nicest handles I made were of osage staves.. No osage here but I have mullberry I can mill or burn, which is much like osage. Ever work with mullberry for handles?
> 
> I'm trying to make some simple stuff for the kitchen that won't rot and the blanks I got were Russel Green River from TOTW. Their stainless is tough, fought cobalt bits for rivet holes:
> 
> https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/453/1/BLADE-BEAR-04
> 
> https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/453/2/BLADE-SPEAR-03
> 
> https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/453/1/BLADE-BON-06


Having stepped into way too many rotten mulberries while bareftoot as a child..and clowned around with the wood a bit later in life. Its a softish wood..probably about like apple. Dont think I would want to make a knife handle out of it. Having gotten into deep discussions with yankees over the years think yankees calle Bois de Arc Osage Orange. Should be easy to get some. 
Texas Woodcrafts - Wood, Lumber, Turning Blanks For Sale


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## The Tourist

I knew there was dirt in the pivot when I saw the gray oil on the blade's ricasso. Clean oil is clear.

Several others and myself routinely contribute to the "knife section" here. You should drop by, ask a lot of questions, especially on maintenance and the vernacular of the distinct knife parts.

And for example, even after +45 years of loving knives, I made a real bonehead mistake. I bought _two_ CRKT Monashee folders--the worst knives ever made and foisted onto the public!

Oh, and a word of caution about us knife knuts. One these clowns is going to tell you that "ricasso" is cheesy Sicilian bread. Just answer him with a straight face and tell him you're Italian and had ricasso for lunch.


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## Slippy

The Tourist said:


> I'm still stuck at home getting over an infection. I have all the time in the world to waste this forum's bandwidth. Pick a topic, I guarantee I'll chew your ear off. As for me, my knives are all sharp, and as I've noted, I think my collection is complete.


Need your guidance Sir Knife Whisperer!

Son1 came over and pulls this rusty old knife out of his pack and says; "Look what I got!" Of course I say; "Looks like you got a rusty old knife." and go back to my Iced Tea and Tito's Vodka in a tall stadium cup while I watch the US Open in the passive solar ceiling fan coolness of my den at Slippy Lodge.

Son1 says, "Dad, you seem to know a lot of shit about a bunch of shit and since you just re-habbed your old Machete, can you give me some pointers on getting this rusty old knife back in shape?"

Sure I say, I'll get my main man @The Tourist to lead the way for us?"

So where do we start and what do we do?

HELP!


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## bigwheel

Wow..that looks like the one old Jim Bowie used to slay the pesky hispanic folks at the Alamo. Bet the knife guy can fix it up for you.


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## The Tourist

Slippy said:


> So where do we start and what do we do? HELP!


With something this bad I would soak the knife OVERNIGHT in Butcher Block Oil, nothing with petroleum in it.

Then I would slowly and softly rub it gently and asymmetrically with the finest steel wool on the planet.

Obviously there is a iron, chrome and carbon in the knife you want to maintain, but the rust has to go. Even with gentle strokes, the rust will recede.

Every time you stop, use more Butcher Block Oil. There is no magic bullet here, you're simply separating the steel from the iron oxide. Sorry I don't have a simple solution for this issue.


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## Boss Dog

bigwheel said:


> Let us discuss the Gap Theory. Seems like some smart sounding folks dont hold with it.
> https://carm.org/gap-theory


The only gap in there is the one between their ears.


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## Boss Dog

I was trying to find a pic of an old Schrade Pro Hunter fixed blade I found that was pretty well rusted and pitted. I don't see it in my phone though. 
Anyway, right or wrong I scrubbed it with a green meanie pad and some Rem Oil until I got most of the rust off. Then I went at it with some Mother's Mag Polish. 
It's not beautiful or even shiny, I just wanted it cleaned so it wouldn't continue to degrade any further. The pitting is still there, I didn't want to take any more metal off.
The Staglon (fake deer antler) is very dull too. The whole thing looked like it had been buried in a barn floor for quite a while. In fact that is where it was found, in a barn. 
If I find a pic when I get home I see about trying to upload it. That's a real pain with my phone.


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## The Tourist

Boss Dog, this was the reason I asked Slippy to work slowly and gently. Going asymmetrical means that he won't lean too hard on one area.

And yes, dealing with pits is the worse case scenario. You'll get the rust off, but those little holes are deep into the good metal.


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## modfan

Just a mention on what I do when My 110 starts getting sticky. I spray carburetor cleaner into the pivot point, work it open and close a 1/2 dozen times. I do this cycle a couple of times. Then put a drop or two of gun oil in the pivot point. It will usually snap open easily after this. Unless, you have access to a safety clean tank. Then I just drop it in that solvent for a 1/2 hour, then blow it out, then the gun oil.


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## bigwheel

Ok..from having to research this Butcher Block Oil it appears to be mineral oil with Vitamin E. 
https://www.woodtalkonline.com/topic/4169-mineral-oil-vs-butcher-block-oil/


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## Slippy

The Tourist said:


> With something this bad I would soak the knife OVERNIGHT in Butcher Block Oil, nothing with petroleum in it.
> 
> Then I would slowly and softly rub it gently and asymmetrically with the finest steel wool on the planet.
> 
> Obviously there is a iron, chrome and carbon in the knife you want to maintain, but the rust has to go. Even with gentle strokes, the rust will recede.
> 
> Every time you stop, use more Butcher Block Oil. There is no magic bullet here, you're simply separating the steel from the iron oxide. Sorry I don't have a simple solution for this issue.


Got it. Put the knife in a container and soaked it with Howards food grade oil. Will check back in the morning to see what it looks like and then slowly start working it with some fine steel wool.

Thanks and stay tuned!


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## Slippy

Slippy said:


> View attachment 98531





The Tourist said:


> With something this bad I would soak the knife OVERNIGHT in Butcher Block Oil, nothing with petroleum in it.
> 
> Then I would slowly and softly rub it gently and asymmetrically with the finest steel wool on the planet.
> 
> Obviously there is a iron, chrome and carbon in the knife you want to maintain, but the rust has to go. Even with gentle strokes, the rust will recede.
> 
> Every time you stop, use more Butcher Block Oil. There is no magic bullet here, you're simply separating the steel from the iron oxide. Sorry I don't have a simple solution for this issue.


Started the labor of removing rust on the knife after a night in an oil soak. Looking better but LOTS of caked on rust. I used the last of what I had of Howards Cutting Board Oil so I found a can of Linseed Oil and will continue the soak and scrub technique throughout the day. Using 0000 Grit Steel Wool. The handle already is looking good.









(Slippy secretely hopes The Tourist will take him on as an apprentice!) :vs_closedeyes:


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## The Tourist

Slippy said:


> (Slippy secretely hopes The Tourist will take him on as an apprentice!) :vs_closedeyes:


Oh, good, my last apprentice died!

But hey, you scratch a client's knife you deserve to be shot...

(BTW, Slippy, you have all the good tools and supplies there, the project will be a slow moving success. However, when perfection finally comes, you will feel good about the maintenance you have done!)


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## Boss Dog

I never did find any photos of that Schrade pro hunter I was talking about, so I took some new ones. Here they are. it's pretty dark still and you can see some of the pitting but, I got it stopped and I think the blade is in overall good shape utilitarian wise.
.

















and once again the photos are awaiting moderator approval, what gives? @Cricket


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## admin

Boss Dog said:


> I never did find any photos of that Schrade pro hunter I was talking about, so I took some new ones. Here they are. it's pretty dark still and you can see some of the pitting but, I got it stopped and I think the blade is in overall good shape utilitarian wise.
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They should be displaying now. I am checking again on why this is happening.


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## Slippy

Boss Dog said:


> I never did find any photos of that Schrade pro hunter I was talking about, so I took some new ones. Here they are. it's pretty dark still and you can see some of the pitting but, I got it stopped and I think the blade is in overall good shape utilitarian wise.
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> and once again the photos are awaiting moderator approval, what gives? @Cricket





Cricket said:


> They should be displaying now. I am checking again on why this is happening.


I'm pretty sure the Mods cringe when they see some of the pics I try and post! :vs_blush: Except for @Mish who encourages them...:devil:


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## Mish

Slippy said:


> I'm pretty sure the Mods cringe when they see some of the pics I try and post! :vs_blush: Except for @Mish who encourages them...


I told you just to start texting them to me. 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk


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## The Tourist

Mish said:


> I told you just to start texting them to me.


Mish, Denton likes to see photographs of items being constructed. To me, my pictures look a tad "raw." The only claim is that the pictures are taken as they happen, not posed. Yikes, in one shot I left a swarf rag out in the open! Granted, any mechanical device might seem a bit rough in it's early stages. However, why would a fellow forum member want to take on a project that seems to be done in haste and amid disruption?

Go to the knife section and see a thread for a Pilar knife. Even my work area seemed disjointed. Can you give me some pointers here?


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## Slippy

@The Tourist

OK here is the before and after of this old knife of my son's. All the rust is gone and over the course of soaking it in oil and rubbing it with steel wool this is what we have. The "Pitting" on the blade is horrible. I'm thinking I will improvise a sharpening wheel with my grinder and a stone attachment on a vise and slowly grind the heck out the blade.

Any other suggestions for the next step will be appreciated.

Slip!


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## The Tourist

Slip, I wish I could help you from here, but I do not use mechanized equipment.

The good news is that you've clearly stopped the iron oxide. How deep did you intend to go?


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## Slippy

The Tourist said:


> Slip, I wish I could help you from here, but I do not use mechanized equipment.
> 
> The good news is that you've clearly stopped the iron oxide. How deep did you intend to go?


That's what she said! :vs_lol:

Seriously, I have no clue. In order to learn the ancient art, I guess I'll ditch the Grinder Idea (as cool as it sounded! :vs_smile and take one of my old stones and begin to hand grind the blade until I get rid of the pitting?


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## bigwheel

Well be sure the metal is thicker than the pits are deep. Thats probably is a rule in the hand grinders hand book..or should be seems like


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## The Tourist

Slippy said:


> take one of my old stones and begin to hand grind the blade until I get rid of the pitting?


I'm with bigwheel on this issue, it's why I asked.

It's kind of hard to know what to suggest, but your job is to get as much cosmetic finish completed and pitting out of the blade with your compromising strength. Think of it as trying to seduce a redhead who's on the Olympic pistol team.

In other words, by the time you've done too much it becomes *way too much*.


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