# Some questions about converting a box truck to a camper



## joec

I just got a great deal on a 14 ft U-Haul truck with a new engine and transmission. Now the truck is in perfect running condition and would like to possibly look into converting it to a camper/bug out vehicle. I have a number of questions from power sources that would work to run basic things like a laptop computer, small refrigerator and possibly a camper style AC system. I'm also looking for methods of modifying the interior for 2 adult sleeping, food storage, water, communications, etc. All input is welcome.


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## HuntingHawk

First thing I would do is set it up for dual batteries & highest amperage alternator I could get then add an inverter.


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## HuntingHawk

To run any type AC you are going to need a generator as they draw a lot of power.

Refrigerator you have the option of one of the 12VDC "coolers" or a small frig run off LP gas. I wouldn't suggest a 120VAC frig because of the power loss to run it threw an inverter.

Atleast a full size bed forward in the box & atleast waist high to allow storeage underneath the bed including a small portapotti.

14ft is normal length for a big camper that goes onto a long bed truck. So going to a rv dealer & looking at some of them will give you a good idea of setting the inside of the box trailer up.


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## Rigged for Quiet

Do a search for "Living in a van". There are a number of blogs out there for do it yourself conversions.


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## Chipper

Frig, RV frig run it on propane and hook it to your generator.

AC, generator gas or diesel whatever the truck runs on and hook it up to draw out of the main tank.

Small electric needs not run by generator, Solar panels run into three or four deep cycle batteries with a power inverter.

All these can be hooked together to make a great redundant reliable vehicle. If one system fails flip the switch to the next.

Fold up bunk beds built onto the sides are a must. Saves on room when not in use. 14 foot will fill up fast.

Now if you could find an old ambulance your work is almost done. Tons of built in storage, huge alternator is factory and power inverter is in and wired. Rear heat and AC runs off engine. Just run a couple solar panels outside and hook them to the batteries, DONE.


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## Meangreen

I like the ambulance idea because they are also insulated which a box truck is not and like chipper said, "Most of your work is done." If you could find one of the ambulances like the forestry service uses you would have all that and four wheel drive.


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## bigdogbuc

Awesome find! Good luck with it.


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## tango

An a/c unit will require about 30 amps. Get a Carrier Mach1 type unit, cut the proper hole in roof, (reinforce as needed) and install and run power.
A power /converter panel will be needed.
You can get a refrigerator/freezer that will run on propane or 12 volts. They are not cheap, but used ones are out there.
Plumbing will be a big project, toilet requires a black water tank, usually 40 gals, sink and shower requires a gray water tank, usually 40 gals, both with the necessary drain lines/valves.
Insulation, windows, door, lights, counters, cabinets, etc.
You may want to look at used motorhomes.


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## joec

Thanks for the input and I've been looking at RV AC systems. So far the truck was $2500 cash and basically in perfect shape hence I bought it. I know the electrical system will need to be upgraded adding additional battery and charging system for it. I've even figured on a Satellite TV communications system into my budget as well as a refrigerator but plan on all of it running on 12 volt DC. Oh and I already have a closed in car trailer with storage in the front of it that I will pull behind it. What I really need is a set of plans for this setup though I've looked I only find pictures but little details on how they did it or what materials they used.


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## tango

You may want to reconsider the refrigerator. Your gonna want propane for stove and heat anyway, may as well add the refrig.


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## tango

You can get a diagram for gas piping and electric wiring on line.
Look at an RV trailer or motorhome and check the layout.


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## joec

tango said:


> You can get a diagram for gas piping and electric wiring on line.
> Look at an RV trailer or motorhome and check the layout.


Thanks I found that and a water system also.


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## Prepadoodle

You might want to look at a bunch of commercial camper floorplans for ideas. They have lots of clever ways to make the best use of available space.


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## joec

Prepadoodle said:


> You might want to look at a bunch of commercial camper floorplans for ideas. They have lots of clever ways to make the best use of available space.


Thanks and that is on my agenda tomorrow for sure.


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## HuntingHawk

Keep in mind that with a LP gas refrigerator you need to vent the exhaust.


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## pastornator

There are a few great builds of box trucks, old U-hauls, etc., at the forum pirate4x4.com. Be advised, though there is a ton if innovative and creative work done by the off-road guys over there, many try to live up to the pirate image so language can get rough. Still worth checking out though. Some of the camping rigs are first class and built for primitive conditions found in off-road use.


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## HuntingHawk

I would be getting as many batteries installed in the engine compartment as possible.


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## whoppo

Here's a few pics of our box truck -> motorhome conversion for whatever inspiration it might provide:























































We carry 30 gallons of fresh water, gray and black water tanks are 30 gallons each.
There's an AC/DC/LP fridge/freezer, full head with separate shower stall, LP oven w/ 3 burner stove, rooftop Air/Heat, 24" 1080p screen w/ WD video player & 2 TB of content, Ham radio from 160meters through 1.2GHz, Full size bed, couch opens to another full size bed, LED lighting inside.

Truck battery is an Odyssey, house batteries are 3x Trojan SCS150's (about 300AH at 20hr rate)

Not shown is the Champion 3500 watt generator that lives on a hitch mount deck.


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## joec

whoppo said:


> Here's a few pics of our box truck -> motorhome conversion for whatever inspiration it might provide:
> 
> We carry 30 gallons of fresh water, gray and black water tanks are 30 gallons each.
> There's an AC/DC/LP fridge/freezer, full head with separate shower stall, LP oven w/ 3 burner stove, rooftop Air/Heat, 24" 1080p screen w/ WD video player & 2 TB of content, Ham radio from 160meters through 1.2GHz, Full size bed, couch opens to another full size bed, LED lighting inside.
> 
> Truck battery is an Odyssey, house batteries are 3x Trojan SCS150's (about 300AH at 20hr rate)
> 
> Not shown is the Champion 3500 watt generator that lives on a hitch mount deck.


Great that gives me a some really good ideas and information. The one I have gets 10 mpg with regular unleaded gasoline and is the typical 14' U-Haul truck with the box over the roof of the truck. It is actually 11'11" L x 7'3" W. Thanks a lot for the pictures I have saved them for future reference.


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## HuntingHawk

You will need this when designing the wiring which is a chart for using 12VDC wire.

101 Wire Loss Chart


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## joec

HuntingHawk said:


> You will need this when designing the wiring which is a chart for using 12VDC wire.
> 
> 101 Wire Loss Chart


Thanks that will also help.


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## joec

pastornator said:


> There are a few great builds of box trucks, old U-hauls, etc., at the forum pirate4x4.com. Be advised, though there is a ton if innovative and creative work done by the off-road guys over there, many try to live up to the pirate image so language can get rough. Still worth checking out though. Some of the camping rigs are first class and built for primitive conditions found in off-road use.


No problem here with peoples language since I'm pretty old and if I haven't used it I've sure heard it all before. :wink:


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## whoppo

joec said:


> Great that gives me a some really good ideas and information. The one I have gets 10 mpg with regular unleaded gasoline and is the typical 14' U-Haul truck with the box over the roof of the truck. It is actually 11'11" L x 7'3" W. Thanks a lot for the pictures I have saved them for future reference.


Yeah.. we get just around 10MPG as well. It's 24 feet bumper to bumper. It's nice to have a clean slate to work with. If you've got the time and the tools you can do some creative things with a truck -> RV conversion. Keep us posted on your progress!


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## RedbeardTheZombieHunter

I personally would advise against the standard RV-type refridgerators. They are quite primative and not energy efficient at all. 10 years ago I plugged a small RV fridge into an outlet in the house and the power bill jumped about $300 for that month. The propane operation on them isn't much better either. IMHO, you'd be much better off getting a small over/under fridge/freezer from Sears, Kmart, or walmart, as the new ones are very efficient, and Energy Star compliant. Then run 2 or 4 deep-cycle batteries with a good stout inverter. Make sure you use a good quality battery isolator so your inverter DOES NOT draw from your vehicle/startup batteries. Charge your deep-cycle batteries from your alternator through the isolator and you're diode protected from draining the startup battery/batteries. Adding the biggest solar panel you can afford to the roof of the box and connecting to the isolator is a good idea and makes for easier start-ups when the vehicle sits for any long period of time.
Modern convieniences are great if you have them, but nature provides some decent alternatives. If you can find a black 100-foot garden hose, you have the makings for a solar water heater. Just lay the hose in a single-layer spiral on a hot surface in direct sunlight, connect a valved Y-connector to your water supply and a short white hose for the cold lead with another Y-connecter to join hot and cold at the other end and you have a solar shower that if set up correctly will feel like heaven as soon as the spray hits you! If you're somewhere with cold weather, you can build an "ice box" out of sheetmetal screwed, welded, or riveted to a simple angle-iron frame with expanded sheetmetal in the bottom to keep food cold in the winter time and mount it under a trap-door in the floor of the van box. Any other time of the year, you can use it to store canned goods or other stuff you don't want found by pilferers or animals.
When you set up your living space, the first thing to keep in mind is efficient use of space. The second is keep in mind the principals of aerodynamics and thermodynamics. Heat rises, cold descends, and you'll want your bed where you can take advantage of both principals for your optimum comfort.

Good luck on your project and keep us all updated on your progress.


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## joec

RedbeardTheZombieHunter said:


> I personally would advise against the standard RV-type refridgerators. They are quite primative and not energy efficient at all. 10 years ago I plugged a small RV fridge into an outlet in the house and the power bill jumped about $300 for that month. The propane operation on them isn't much better either. IMHO, you'd be much better off getting a small over/under fridge/freezer from Sears, Kmart, or walmart, as the new ones are very efficient, and Energy Star compliant. Then run 2 or 4 deep-cycle batteries with a good stout inverter. Make sure you use a good quality battery isolator so your inverter DOES NOT draw from your vehicle/startup batteries. Charge your deep-cycle batteries from your alternator through the isolator and you're diode protected from draining the startup battery/batteries. Adding the biggest solar panel you can afford to the roof of the box and connecting to the isolator is a good idea and makes for easier start-ups when the vehicle sits for any long period of time.
> Modern convieniences are great if you have them, but nature provides some decent alternatives. If you can find a black 100-foot garden hose, you have the makings for a solar water heater. Just lay the hose in a single-layer spiral on a hot surface in direct sunlight, connect a valved Y-connector to your water supply and a short white hose for the cold lead with another Y-connecter to join hot and cold at the other end and you have a solar shower that if set up correctly will feel like heaven as soon as the spray hits you! If you're somewhere with cold weather, you can build an "ice box" out of sheetmetal screwed, welded, or riveted to a simple angle-iron frame with expanded sheetmetal in the bottom to keep food cold in the winter time and mount it under a trap-door in the floor of the van box. Any other time of the year, you can use it to store canned goods or other stuff you don't want found by pilferers or animals.
> When you set up your living space, the first thing to keep in mind is efficient use of space. The second is keep in mind the principals of aerodynamics and thermodynamics. Heat rises, cold descends, and you'll want your bed where you can take advantage of both principals for your optimum comfort.
> 
> Good luck on your project and keep us all updated on your progress.


I'm also looking into mounting a solar panel on the roof as well setting up perhaps three systems for the truck system, panels and generator with perhaps capable of hooking to AC power as well where available. I was figuring on about 4 to 6 batteries in the process but not sure yet since I just got the truck and need to do some planning so I figure I will be about 4 months before I really can jump on doing as much as I can myself.


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## vandelescrow

Here is a thread of a guy who took a deuce and a half and made it into a camper. lots of pics and diagrams. he even has heated floors. I'm sure you will get ideas here.

mah deuce - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum


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## HuntingHawk

Problem with solar panels flat on the roof is it is a very poor way to mount them. They need atleast angled for longtitude to get any noticeable power out of them.
You may want to look at storing in the box & have adjustable frames. Pull then out when you park & adjust then for longitude & face them south. There are actually foldup solar panels just for doing this.


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## HuntingHawk

With a rebuilt engine & transmission in the box truck you got a really good deal as I just had done a search on them.


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## joec

HuntingHawk said:


> With a rebuilt engine & transmission in the box truck you got a really good deal as I just had done a search on them.


I got it from a tenant of mine that is a contractor. He has used it twice in a year and the commercial insurance was killing him. He gave me first shot at it for $2500 then if I didn't want it he would sell it on Crags list for $3500. Needless to say I jumped on it with cash. It really is in good shape and he has maintained for the 2 years he has owned it. Fairly low mileage too for a cross country hauler also. With the engine rebuild he just did he also changed he fuel pump, water pump and battery also. When I get my camera back from my grand daughter and get a chance I will post some pictures.


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## joec

HuntingHawk said:


> Problem with solar panels flat on the roof is it is a very poor way to mount them. They need atleast angled for longtitude to get any noticeable power out of them.
> You may want to look at storing in the box & have adjustable frames. Pull then out when you park & adjust then for longitude & face them south. There are actually foldup solar panels just for doing this.


I was planing on having them tilt up for when I'm sitting and using them then.


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## joec

vandelescrow said:


> Here is a thread of a guy who took a deuce and a half and made it into a camper. lots of pics and diagrams. he even has heated floors. I'm sure you will get ideas here.
> 
> mah deuce - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum


Thanks I'll go to that tread as soon as I leave here.


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## HuntingHawk

For adjustable solar panels roof mounted you hinge one side then can raise the opposite side for proper angle. So if you were to hinge the panels on the left side of the roof you would always want to park the box truck that the left side is facing south.
HOWEVER, you could mount the panels that the are hinged on both sides & have a removable pin so can adjust from either side.

I have solar panels mounted on a shipping container (my storm shelter) & basically have to go readjust them every 30 days to get the most out of the panels.


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## joec

HuntingHawk said:


> For adjustable solar panels roof mounted you hinge one side then can raise the opposite side for proper angle. So if you were to hinge the panels on the left side of the roof you would always want to park the box truck that the left side is facing south.
> HOWEVER, you could mount the panels that the are hinged on both sides & have a removable pin so can adjust from either side.
> 
> I have solar panels mounted on a shipping container (my storm shelter) & basically have to go readjust them every 30 days to get the most out of the panels.


Thanks and will look into that hinging system with the pins.


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## HuntingHawk

Hinge system is basically an L bracket welded to the solar panel frame & one bolted to the roof & holes in each that match up that a bolt will go threw them. Note that I made my own solar panel frames from old bed frames, angle iron.


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## HuntingHawk

This little guy will save you a lot of frustration in getting the solar panel angles correct.

Angle Finder w/ Dial Gauge


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## HuntingHawk

On the solar panels, I'm thinking you should have enough space for a rack forward & one after of the rooftop AC with each rack holding atleast two 100watt panels. 
Now, that will probably eliminate space to get up on the roof to adjust the panels. But if you remove the loading ramp from the back that goes under the floor I put a step ladder there it will make it fairly easy to get to either side of the roof to adjust the panel angles.

400 watts should max out at about 20amps so a 30amp controller would be about right. Just rough figures to use. You might be able to use 120 or 140 watt panels so give you even more but a 30amp controller would still work. With 520 watts of solar the best I have seen is alittle over 26amps.
But roughly 20amps for five hours is 100amps to the batteries. About an hour you don't have to run your alternator or a portable generator.


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## HuntingHawk

A larger roof top AC you are probably looking at drawing up to 16amps @ 120VAC. So after doing the wiring, plumbing, etc you want to do some serious insulating.


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## joec

HuntingHawk said:


> A larger roof top AC you are probably looking at drawing up to 16amps @ 120VAC. So after doing the wiring, plumbing, etc you want to do some serious insulating.


Yes that is a given for me as I did 20 years when a kid as a sheet metal worker so often had to deal with insulation.


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## whoppo

RedbeardTheZombieHunter said:


> I personally would advise against the standard RV-type refridgerators. They are quite primative and not energy efficient at all. 10 years ago I plugged a small RV fridge into an outlet in the house and the power bill jumped about $300 for that month. The propane operation on them isn't much better either. IMHO, you'd be much better off getting a small over/under fridge/freezer from Sears, Kmart, or walmart, as the new ones are very efficient, and Energy Star compliant. Then run 2 or 4 deep-cycle batteries with a good stout inverter. Make sure you use a good quality battery isolator so your inverter DOES NOT draw from your vehicle/startup batteries. Charge your deep-cycle batteries from your alternator through the isolator and you're diode protected from draining the startup battery/batteries. Adding the biggest solar panel you can afford to the roof of the box and connecting to the isolator is a good idea and makes for easier start-ups when the vehicle sits for any long period of time.
> Modern convieniences are great if you have them, but nature provides some decent alternatives. If you can find a black 100-foot garden hose, you have the makings for a solar water heater. Just lay the hose in a single-layer spiral on a hot surface in direct sunlight, connect a valved Y-connector to your water supply and a short white hose for the cold lead with another Y-connecter to join hot and cold at the other end and you have a solar shower that if set up correctly will feel like heaven as soon as the spray hits you! If you're somewhere with cold weather, you can build an "ice box" out of sheetmetal screwed, welded, or riveted to a simple angle-iron frame with expanded sheetmetal in the bottom to keep food cold in the winter time and mount it under a trap-door in the floor of the van box. Any other time of the year, you can use it to store canned goods or other stuff you don't want found by pilferers or animals.
> When you set up your living space, the first thing to keep in mind is efficient use of space. The second is keep in mind the principals of aerodynamics and thermodynamics. Heat rises, cold descends, and you'll want your bed where you can take advantage of both principals for your optimum comfort.
> 
> Good luck on your project and keep us all updated on your progress.


I'm guessing there was something drastically wrong with the RV fridge you had. We leave our RV plugged into shore power in our driveway year round (when we're not out enjoying it, that is).
We plug into a basic 120v/15A circuit with a Kill-A-Watt meter inline and we've found that running just the NorCold 2-door fridge/freezer and the rest of the RV stuff (battery charger, etc) costs us about $10/month. We have a 25 gallon LP tank, and averaging 30-40 days a year traveling, we've yet to need to refill more than once per season, with the LP running the fridge, hot water heater and stove/oven.

You're absolutely right about running good deep cycle batteries and isolating them from the starting battery.
We build a relay isolator rather than a diode based one. The house deep cycle battery bank is connected to the truck charging system only when the 200amp relay is closed, either automatically by an ignition-on power source or manually with a switch. The manual option allows us to jump-start the starting battery from the house batteries if we need to. We've learned (the hard way) to not skimp on batteries... spend the extra money on good ones.


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## HuntingHawk

Neighbor has a 12/120/LP frig in their motorhome. They said it works best on LP. Frig quit on them several months ago & was $1200 to have it fixed. It was the controller.


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## whoppo

HuntingHawk said:


> Neighbor has a 12/120/LP frig in their motorhome. They said it works best on LP. Frig quit on them several months ago & was $1200 to have it fixed. It was the controller.


Yeah.. controller boards are somewhat exposed to weather through the vent louvers. We had to replace the board in our Norcold 3-way last year, but it wasn't expensive.. Bought the replacement board for under $100 shipped and it took 15 minutes to replace. Could've bought a whole new 3-way fridge for $1200.


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## HuntingHawk

I can't reply much to your statement as just repeating what the neighbor had told me. I do know it was a service call for tech to come out to the campground where they were to fix it. And three years ago they had trouble with it also that it quit working on LP but don't recall the problem, think he said ignitor.


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## Prepadoodle

Another option for mounting solar panels might be to make a rack and hang them on the side of the truck. As long as that side is parked to the south, you could pull a pin at the bottom, then swing them up and brace them to just about any angle. The nice thing about this is that they would function as an awning too, providing a nice shady spot to sit.

If I was going to do this, I would mount 2 channels vertically on the side. These channels would have horizontal holes, each hole going through both walls of the channel and spaced about an inch or 2 apart. Then make a frame to mount the panels, and have a block at each corner spaced so they fit into the channels. These blocks would also have holes and you could just put a pin through each to hold the frame in place. If you pull the bottom pins, the rack could swing up. My braces would be smaller channel that would store in the vertical channels. When in use, you would pin one end of these to the bottom frame blocks and pin the other end to whatever hole gives the correct angle... easy.


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