# How I am doing my solar



## Maine-Marine (Mar 7, 2014)

Instead of having one large battery bank, I am going to have smaller dual battery setup for each light or appliance

1 or 2 55 amp hour batteries per light and more for the fridge

1 35 amp hour battery will light a led setup for more then 2 days, so 2 55 AH bats

right now I have almost 20 55 AH Bats and 6 35 AH bats 

Yes it will take more solar controllers.. but this way I do not have to worry about one bad battery killing or hurting the complete system


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## Montana Rancher (Mar 4, 2013)

I am unsure, what is the source of your power?


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## 8301 (Nov 29, 2014)

No offence intended MM but sounds like a pretty inefficient system.


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## Dubyagee (Nov 9, 2012)

Stand alone batteries can be charged with isolators like on a boat but why not have spare batteries for the main pack?


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## Maine-Marine (Mar 7, 2014)

Montana Rancher said:


> I am unsure, what is the source of your power?


The Sun............


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## A Watchman (Sep 14, 2015)

FoolAmI said:


> No offence intended MM but sounds like a pretty inefficient system.


Explain you statement please FoolAmI. Thanks.


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

A bit more detail is needed to determine the effectiveness of this setup.
Will each battery have its own panel to charge it?
Or
Will you split the power from the panel bank out to multiple charge controllers?
Or
Will you feed the panel power to a single controller, and split out to multiple batteries from there?


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## Maine-Marine (Mar 7, 2014)

Kauboy said:


> A bit more detail is needed to determine the effectiveness of this setup.
> Will each battery have its own panel to charge it?
> Or
> Will you split the power from the panel bank out to multiple charge controllers?
> ...


good questions

each battery bank will have there own panels... I am getting a bunch of 25 watt panels... most likely I will tie 2 together for each set of batteries

these will be individual set ups... 2 panels, 1 controller, 2 batteries ---1 or two lights

my thoughts are that in this way no single bad battery or single bad panel will cause problem


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## Maine-Marine (Mar 7, 2014)

FoolAmI said:


> No offense intended MM but sounds like a pretty inefficient system.


please explain "inefficient"...


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## Kauboy (May 12, 2014)

Maine-Marine said:


> good questions
> 
> each battery bank will have there own panels... I am getting a bunch of 25 watt panels... most likely I will tie 2 together for each set of batteries
> 
> ...


Works for me.
Sounds like a decent option.
I don't see an efficiency problem with this setup, though perhaps a bit more costly to have a divided system.


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## 8301 (Nov 29, 2014)

Assuming you're planning to run several circuits in your home, a few lights, a few fans, maybe the toaster oven, dehydrator, or microwave; you've already got the wiring inside your walls encased in NEC approved junction boxes and breakers for protection.

Instead you're talking adding a 2nd power grid in your home with unprotected wires, limited fusing, not fully protected junctions,,, with high amperage lead acid batteries full of sulfuric acid that produce explosive gasses scattered through out the house. Not to mention little inefficient charge controllers for each battery bank and small inverters that can't power something big if the need arises. And if you need to focus power in the freezer for a few sunless days you're pulling batteries from one place to another risking getting acid on your hands (and in your eyes) with every move.

Yes, you can build protective vented battery boxes for the batteries, run conduit to protect the batteries, buy several better (more expensive) small inverters and protect that high amperage wiring with lots of fuses and earth grounds. Wouldn't it be easier to simply build a small self contained solar power center and either run a few extension cords or in an emergency using a disconnect for the local grid tap into your breaker box for only a few critical circuits.

Below, built this system for about $1350 four years ago. 490 watts of panels, three 12v 125 amp/hr Trojan batteries, inverter and charge controller in a box, all on a shelf under the panels and it can be moved from one house to another in about 2 hrs. Runs my freezer and electric fence now, used to run a small window ac unit. When power went out for 3 days I ran a cord into the living room for tv, satellite, computer, a few lights along with battery chargers for the flashlight and radio. The 1000 watt inverter wouldn't run a huge old refrigerator but it did keep the chest freezer going. And in a true long term SHTF I could unhook local grid power and easily wire it into my electric panel, something I'd never suggest unless you know you can safely and absolutely disconnect from the local grid (pull your power meter at the side of your house)




















I've done it, I've used it for years, and as many of you know I'm currently installing a much larger system.







Notice the battery box vent fan in the PVC pipe. The smaller system has the batteries outside so no box or vent fan needed.


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## Maine-Marine (Mar 7, 2014)

all the batteries will be outside in a vented box..

Why would I move batteries?
converting DC to AC takes power....

DC lights/LED lights 12 volt will run forever..


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## 8301 (Nov 29, 2014)

Maine-Marine said:


> all the batteries will be outside in a vented box..
> 
> Why would I move batteries?
> converting DC to AC takes power....
> ...


Yea, A straight DC system would be more efficient if you keep the wire runs short but very limiting. I've read about and spoken with several people over the years who started out with everything on 12v but all of them after a few years upgraded to 120v. And the cost of a 12v refrigerator is very high, or it was a few years ago.


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## coates776 (Sep 4, 2015)

I'm new to this we are 240v in Australia, how did you do your so cheap what am I doing wrong, cost to date

6 batteries. 1,800
6 120 panels. 1,200
Inverter 10,000. 516

All hocked up to power point in kitchen and another in the lounge room. $3,516 to get 2 240w power points "need to start robbing a bank"!


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## 8301 (Nov 29, 2014)

4 years ago there was a solar panel glut so I was able to buy 4 panels (2 sizes) with free shipping or about $1 US dollar per watt. $480
the inverter is a 1000 watt pure sine wave inverter and cost about $200 back then, $229 now http://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-806-1...1443633277&sr=8-5&keywords=1000+watt+inverter
The real cost was the charge controller since I bought a very efficient one and it cost about $350 four years back Amazon.com : Morningstar TS-MPPT-45 TriStar 45 Amp Charge Controller 12-48V : Renewable Energy Charge Controllers : Patio, Lawn & Garden
I started with three 106 amp/hr Autozone deep cycle batteries @ $110 each so $330
Since I have a wood working business the wood and screws for the stand cost about $30.

You have a much larger system than my small starter system. At that price you have a modified sine wave inverter which will run most things but since the electricity it makes isn't super "clean" you may get buzzing out of some electronics and florescent lights and you never want to hook it to sensitive electronics that don't have a battery (the battery will help stabilize the AC cycling with your modified sine wave inverter, It may burn them out, it will burn out a plasma TV for example. Still, for most things your inverter will do a fine job.

Solar isn't cheap but if done right it may pay for itself but the additional cost of the batteries make that difficult. Before US federal tax credits I'll have a bit over $17,000 in my 4500 watt system. After tax credits the system will cost me $11,900.


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## Maine-Marine (Mar 7, 2014)

I feel lucky... I am getting things second hand but free

I have 20+ 55 AH Batteries and another 8 35 AH Batteries - free (Most of the batteries are in great shape

I am getting some 20 watt panels - free

I am getting some controllers ASC 12/8 - Free they put out about 1 amp

I will have to buy cabling most likely 2 strand 14 gauge


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## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

well one big pluse,,,,It will be easy to ad on to


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