# the best bartering supply EVER!! Contest



## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

I have seen a few post about what to have on hand to barter and they had some great ideas.
But I think I have a winner of an idea. I have a shed thats full of junk (good junk) everything from 10ph electric start snow blowers to Solar parts, I got thinking about and at first the stuff that people are going to want is not the same as what they will be looking for in 8 or 12 months. You are going to see people more motivated and creative 
than any other time in recent history. And this time they are going to know more about everything than they did before. --- 2 horse power pull start washing machine thats runs on burning wood--- That's the kind of stuff I'm talking about. And the guy that has the parts to build it will be the man to see when you have something he wants.
One piece of junk for two pieces or whatever I may need at that time.
-----------------------So my entry is one shed full of junk what's yours?
--------------------------------just one idea----------------------------------------------------------------


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## rickkyw1720pf (Nov 17, 2012)

I think the best bartering item would be medicines such as antibiotics. If the SHTF there will be a lot of junk all over the place what is needed is to be able to put the junk back together or make something out of it.


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## Tundra Dweller (May 18, 2013)

Some where along the way everything will be needed.. The question is can you get to it. Rona, Home depot, lowes etc all have this stuff.. at some point the cops will stop protecting these stores BUT are we willing to take a chance to go there.. 

My entry is also a shed full.. from lumber and nails to screws and metal stock. a lathe that runs off of a 1920's hit and miss motor that i have spare parts for.. Working on setting up a belt driven work shop..


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Mine is a combination of systems. Water collection & storeage system. Ceramic filter system. And solar system powering a small chest freezer that I can freeze jugs of ice. Been in Florida in the summer without air conditioning or ice?


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## Prepadoodle (May 28, 2013)

I see the best barter items as being services. For me, this would mean a small machine shop, which would include a small lathe, a milling machine, a welder, and a grinder, along with a few measuring tools and basic tooling such as end mills and tool bits. With a setup like this, I could make virtually any replacement part for virtually any machine.

These machines would be almost useless unless you knew how to operate them. Having such a shop would make me a valuable member of any community, and I imagine they would tend to look out for my well being. LOL

The nice thing about services is that you won't run out of them. I see it as a "renewable" resource.


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## AvengersAssembled (Dec 13, 2012)

I totally see the value of having parts/the knowledge around, but I am not very mechanically minded and live in an apartment in the middle of a huge metropolitan area where bugging out is my only option. Space is very limited (I'll only be here for another year though), so anything I set aside for bartering has to be compact. I mostly have silver quarters, travel size toiletries/medical supplies, and hard candy. It's not much, and certainly won't win any awards, but as my only option will be to leave, probably quickly, I can only try to do my best lol


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## Blkwulff (Jun 27, 2013)

If you live in the city need to leave quick ? And I do what everyone thought on a moped ? Think in a city if you had to you could drive on sidewalks take trails tow a bike trailer with you supply any thoughts on this


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## retired guard (Mar 7, 2013)

Food if the market isn't as expected you can literally "eat" your inventory.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware all depend on weekly deliveries to keep their shelves stocked - just like the grocery stores. In less than a week those places will be empty and deserted. People will all be looking for "useful" items and there won't be anyplace that has not been picked over. I have two metal recyclers that are close enough to get to but after the SHTF I doubt the risk will be worth the trip so I will be planning on scavenging as I go about my daily routine and trading for raw materials where ever I am. I know that the competition for raw materials will be maddening as people take what they need to survive. Wood will be used as heating fuel for as long as it lasts so getting wood to make a chair or stool is going to be extremely difficult. Metal will be just as bad as folks gather up what they can to do whatever they can with it.

Small lighters like the Bic lighters will have value because most people couldn't build a fire or light a candle or lamp without one. Sewing needles, not rotting thread, cloth, and even small pieces of stainless steel will be good for barter. Liquor, wine, beer, and chocolate will be extremely valuable. Marijuana, and other mood altering drugs will be wanted but most will grow their own so it might be good to have a little on hand but it won't be a good barter item. Legal meds for pain will be a source for contacts with some very bad people but antibiotics and a list of what to use them for and how to tell which should be used for what will be in great demand and the knowledge that goes with it could save your life but if you make a mistake it could get you killed.

You have to think about what you need on a daily basis if you had no city water or power and no fuel.


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## PrepperDogs (May 12, 2013)

Water and salt


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## longrider (Mar 25, 2013)

My horse training/dog training skills. Anyway, that's my best one. I hope to have honey bees, also, but that is down the road. I think skills more than things, except for food.


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## Ripon (Dec 22, 2012)

This is as easy as toilet paper. Here is why.

1). It is most affordable. Shop around and find the smallest roll, cheapest kind, and spend as little as possible because when it becomes a barter item that expensive charming might be nice but the cheap stuff will still be in high demand.

2). Because anyone with an attic can store it there and let it serve as insulation. How many "preps" save you money while in storage and don't degrade any or hardly any. 

My current deal is a 24 roll dual ply from a local grocery chain for $3.98 plus tax. It costs me less than 18 cents a roll. It's a large flat package that fits nicely in the attic and for under 10 bucks I get 48 barter items that in Venezuela would already be worth plenty.


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## 1895gunner (Sep 23, 2012)

22 long rifle ammo by the brick.


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## rickkyw1720pf (Nov 17, 2012)

1895gunner said:


> 22 long rifle ammo by the brick.


I tend to agree people can use it to protect themselves and take small game, and it would be much less likely to be coming back at you if you are well armed.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

I can easily hit the kill zone on an adult at 100 yards with my little 22 LR. I do it twice a month at the range in competition. That is why it should be a last resort to trade ammo or reloading supplies.
Find something that cannot be used against you to barter with - like toilet paper or salt or sugar or anything that isn't likely to be able to kill you in a stupid moment.


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## PrepConsultant (Aug 28, 2012)

I am goin to say honey. We are going to start with our own honey bees in the near future so should have a nice supply. Hell, we probably have 50-75 quart jars and about as many or more pint sized jars of honey. It is a great sugar substitute,great for coughs and sore throat,cuts,energy,supposed to be good for the skin and many more things. Plus, it never goes bad. I read somewhere a year or so ago they found some in the pyramids and it was still good! And you can also use the beeswax for many purposes... So honey is my pick..


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## Rigged for Quiet (Mar 3, 2013)

I just found a new source for local honey about a week ago. My old supplier has good honey, but the new stuff is out of this world good.


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## Rigged for Quiet (Mar 3, 2013)

Ripon said:


> This is as easy as toilet paper. Here is why.
> 
> 1). It is most affordable. Shop around and find the smallest roll, cheapest kind, and spend as little as possible because when it becomes a barter item that expensive charming might be nice but the cheap stuff will still be in high demand.
> 
> ...


I just had a mental image of the check out folks where you buy your TP and what conversations they have as you haul out your 200th role for the week....


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## Deebo (Oct 27, 2012)

I like honey, but im so tough, I just eat the bees...
Just joshin ya.. I have some dollartree batteries, cheaper style flashlights, and some lighters. I have a few of the "1$ knives" in the walmart camping section..I sold one for three dollars at work...I dont have an attic, but, t.p. would be a decent longterm item, and just slowly use it, I buy the cheap stuff at dollar general for rolls its 1 dollar. Lately ive used it more for picking up my puppies "love muffins" she keeps depositing in my room.


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## Montana Rancher (Mar 4, 2013)

Gah, you sucked me in so here goes

The ability to charge batteries, either small ones or car batteries is a great barter skill.

A moonshine still

Mouse traps, Bic lighters, pool shock, alcohol, Fish antibiotics, N95 Respirators, M10 Gas masks, Canning Lids, Canning Jars, Heirloom seeds, salt, sugar, pepper, 5 gallon food grade buckets.

Being able to draw a range card and set up overlapping fields of fire.

Axes, saws, sharpening stones, and knowing how to use them.

Shovels, hoes, forks, pitch forks, augers, pry bars, post hole diggers

Bolt cutters

Hot showers, warm food, coffee, clothes repair, spiritual salvation.

Lye, lard, wax, oil, gasoline, diesel, and spark plugs

Faith, Hope Charity, Compassion, and Comfort

All of these things will have value when the SHTF.


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## Inor (Mar 22, 2013)

Montana Rancher said:


> Gah, you sucked me in so here goes
> 
> The ability to charge batteries, either small ones or car batteries is a great barter skill.
> 
> ...


Just to add to MR's list:

A set of bench chisels

A set of cold chisels

A brace and bits

A swedge

A fence stretcher

A good set of sharpening stones

A hoof rasp

Ice tongs and ice saw

Canning lids (maybe worth more than their weight in gold)


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## Armed Paramedic (May 19, 2013)

Booze.


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## Montana Rancher (Mar 4, 2013)

Inor said:


> Just to add to MR's list:
> 
> A set of bench chisels
> 
> ...


I have all those except a Swedge, what the heck is that?


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

Our plan is a bit different. We will avoid contact with others and have what we need. Bartering is something for way down the road..
We will easily have extra food and more water than we will ever need, so we could part with some if felt it was the right course.
The problem will be security, every contact with anyone out side our group could open us up to conflict . 
Still we add to stock piles.
Axes, two man saws for wood cutting
Today fishing line was added a rather large amount.
Almost anything can at some time be of value to others


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## Inor (Mar 22, 2013)

Montana Rancher said:


> I have all those except a Swedge, what the heck is that?


I am not sure if "swedge" is the technical term for it, but that is what my granddad called it when he taught me to use it. It is a tool for setting the teeth of a woodsaw when you sharpen it.









Sorry for the poor quality photo. It is too crappy out today to open up my shop and get more natural light.


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## Piratesailor (Nov 9, 2012)

TP, cigs and booze...

Next is ammo and food/water


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## Tundra Dweller (May 18, 2013)

Saw set is what i have seen those called.. I have one but never had to use it yet...


Inor said:


> I am not sure if "swedge" is the technical term for it, but that is what my granddad called it when he taught me to use it. It is a tool for setting the teeth of a woodsaw when you sharpen it.
> 
> View attachment 2147
> 
> ...


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

Inor said:


> I am not sure if "swedge" is the technical term for it, but that is what my granddad called it when he taught me to use it. It is a tool for setting the teeth of a woodsaw when you sharpen it.
> 
> View attachment 2147
> 
> ...


It is spelled with an "a" in place of the "e" but yes it is also called a set or saw tooth set.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

Most anything that people use daily and use up are good for barter. If it tends to be addictive or habitual then it is even more likely to be needed but you have to be careful because addicts will do ANYTHING to get the next fix and they are only loyal to the drug of choice so you don't matter as long as they believe they can get what they "need".

Coffee, cigarettes or tobacco, alcohol in liquids over 25% by volume (50 proof and up), and toilet paper are very good items but so are hard candy, chocolate, "bic" style lighters, salt, sugar and honey.


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## gundog (Jun 26, 2013)

Mine is maple syrup. I make and store quite a bit.......and I use it for barter already.


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## Moonshinedave (Mar 28, 2013)

Although I haven't stocked it yet myself, I've heard people talk about tobacco and liquor. Yes, two things people don't need, but isn't it true the more you don't need something the more you want it? I'd wager both would be worth their weight in gold after the SHTF.


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## AvengersAssembled (Dec 13, 2012)

I've heard that tobacco is currently the highest traded/bought commodity in the world. That was a while ago, don't know if it's still true. But that's a pretty compelling argument lol In any tough situation, I think comfort items would be worth a lot.


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## LunaticFringeInc (Nov 20, 2012)

I think those with heirloom seeds that can produce veggies, those with acreage with fruit and nut trees and those who raise chickens and rabbits and goats will have the most long term clout in a SHTF that last longer than 12 months or so. I can build even a debis hut to keep warm and dry in the winter and cool in the summer. I can take a dump without toliet paper although it would be nice to have. But how many people can produce food? Your not going to last long without it...its a re-occurring need we all have if we are going to survive.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

Producing food should be second only to water. I store a one year supply because it could be a bad year for the crop or the critters could die and it might take that long to get back to the point where I can produce again. If I have a good year I add to the stock - both for a cushion and for barter. The problem that I foresee is that of poaching. If folks are hungry they could get to the point where they take my animals which will adversely affect my life. I have devices that will stop them or warn me to their presence but I am also thinking of getting a couple of dogs to watch the place better. The two breeds I am considering are the Karelian Bear Dog and the Native American Indian Dog. Both are large dogs, without health problems, intelligent and active. If I decide to get them I will get them at the same time and as pups so they can grow up together and learn to cooperate in their tactics. I have done this before with a pair of Elk Hounds and the tactic can be very effective. Both dogs tend to be territorial so the property will belong to them but they are devoted to their owner and the family so their training will include the normal points for a good "field dog". At about 34" at the shoulder and up to 120 pounds the Native American Indian Dog is considerably larger than the Karelian Bear dog at 24 inches and up to 50 pounds.


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## LunaticFringeInc (Nov 20, 2012)

PaulS said:


> Producing food should be second only to water. I store a one year supply because it could be a bad year for the crop or the critters could die and it might take that long to get back to the point where I can produce again. If I have a good year I add to the stock - both for a cushion and for barter. The problem that I foresee is that of poaching. If folks are hungry they could get to the point where they take my animals which will adversely affect my life. I have devices that will stop them or warn me to their presence but I am also thinking of getting a couple of dogs to watch the place better. The two breeds I am considering are the Karelian Bear Dog and the Native American Indian Dog. Both are large dogs, without health problems, intelligent and active. If I decide to get them I will get them at the same time and as pups so they can grow up together and learn to cooperate in their tactics. I have done this before with a pair of Elk Hounds and the tactic can be very effective. Both dogs tend to be territorial so the property will belong to them but they are devoted to their owner and the family so their training will include the normal points for a good "field dog". At about 34" at the shoulder and up to 120 pounds the Native American Indian Dog is considerably larger than the Karelian Bear dog at 24 inches and up to 50 pounds.


Yeah thats gonna be a problem for you irregardless if you got a 6x12 victory garden or a 150x75 foot garden. Like the rest of your preps your gonna need to protect and defend it.


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## longrider (Mar 25, 2013)

I am learning to make soap - not from lye, per se, but from ashes, that make lye. And I know how to make yeast from scratch now. I'm hoping I'll have skills that will pay off. You can't steel my skills...


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

I have been using natural yeast for a long time. I make sourdough ...... EVERYTHING!

I have enough dried starter to make a new batch about every day for a year.

It is fun to raise the little buggers - but they're too small to see so I have never named them.


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## Inor (Mar 22, 2013)

PaulS said:


> I have been using natural yeast for a long time. I make sourdough ...... EVERYTHING!
> 
> I have enough dried starter to make a new batch about every day for a year.
> 
> It is fun to raise the little buggers - but they're too small to see so I have never named them.


I tried your technique for drying and saving sour dough starter with mesophilic starter for making cheese. It did dry out just fine and I am 90% sure the process works just fine. In my particular case, it did have a problem, but I believe that was my fault for just putting the dried culture into a plastic container and leaving it on the counter for a couple weeks. It started to grow a very nice green mold. But the mold looked to be the same type that grows on some of the cheeses. So I am almost certain that if I had put it into the freezer as soon as it was dried, it would have worked perfectly.

I do have to try that again since the mesophilic starter (or thermophilic starter for Italian cheeses) is the only thing we cannot get in a SHTF situation.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

I don't make cheese but the sourdough starter is just fine left on the counter too - as long as the humidity doesn't get too high. Here in the Walla Walla valley we don't have much humidity so I rarely bother to freeze it like I had to in Seattle when I was there. Before you throw out your starter try re-hydrating it to see if it will still work. If the mold is the same then it just wasn't completely dry and it may work fine. You need to dry it completely before freezing or you will kill it.


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## Inor (Mar 22, 2013)

PaulS said:


> I don't make cheese but the sourdough starter is just fine left on the counter too - as long as the humidity doesn't get too high. Here in the Walla Walla valley we don't have much humidity so I rarely bother to freeze it like I had to in Seattle when I was there. Before you throw out your starter try re-hydrating it to see if it will still work. If the mold is the same then it just wasn't completely dry and it may work fine. You need to dry it completely before freezing or you will kill it.


I know when we bought the original cultures of the starter, they were VERY adamant that it needed to be kept frozen. Plus, this time of year in Minnesota it is as humid as Florida.

The problem is, re-hydrating cheese starter is a bit more complicated than sourdough. It requires that you sterilize a quart of skim milk, seal it into an airtight jar and cool it to *exactly* 70 degrees. Then quickly put in the starter culture and reseal it. Then it needs to be kept at exactly 70 degree for 24-36 hours to grow. Only then can you tell if it is still active or not. With the mold, it is too likely the mold will also grow in the milk as well as the starter. So, I will try it again from the beginning and be more careful this time.

But thanks for the great idea! I am sure with enough time and failure Mrs Inor and I will figure this one out. :-D


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

Well, yeast can't freeze before it is dormant (dry) and survive but if your cheese culture is supposed to be frozen then that is what to do. 
With sourdough I just spread the starter (about 1/8" thick) on some waxed paper and let it dry. This is starter that I have just fed without letting it start to proof (bubble and froth). I just add the flour and water, stir it to get it all mixed up and then spread it over the waxed paper. It only takes about 6 hours to be hard and dry and I peal the paper off and break it into smaller pieces. I have let it sit out for days before I put it into a paper envelope and put it either into the freezer or in the pantry. I have some in both places. I never put it into a container that can't breathe - it needs air to survive. It sounds like the cheese starter is anaerobic and should not be exposed to the air for long periods at least. Is that right?


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## Inor (Mar 22, 2013)

PaulS said:


> It sounds like the cheese starter is anaerobic and should not be exposed to the air for long periods at least. Is that right?


Boy... You are talkin' dirty now. I do not know?

We have only been trying the cheese making for about 6-8 months, so we are very early in our experience and fumbling along very much in the dark. Here is what I do know:

There are two types of cultures that you can use to make cheese: mesophilic and thermophilic. The difference is the temperature of the milk that each need to multiply. The mesophilic multiplies in milk between 90 and 100 degrees fahrenheit. The thermophilic multiplies between 100 and 120. Regardless, the process basically is to prep the milk and heat it to the appropriate temperature. Then add the starter for the type of cheese you wish to make. The starter needs time to "activate" and grow a reasonable culture in the milk (usually between an hour and an hour and a half).- That part is basically like doing the first rise of a bread loaf before you punch it down. During that time, you have no idea if the culture is live or not. After the culture has hopefully multiplied in the warm milk, you add rennet which reacts with the culture to form cheese curds. Processing after that depends on the type of cheese you intend to make. (That is the basic cheese making process.)

So, onto my original experiment (Mrs Inor is responsible for actually making the cheese. My responsibility is to figure out how to keep a live starter culture going.)

The regenerative culture comes in a packet that looks and smells a lot like bakers yeast. To get it ready to use, you sterilize skim milk and keep it at 70 degrees and add the culture. Once the culture has grown for 24-36 hours, it will have a center part that is white and about the consistency of yogurt. Surrounding that will be a watery liquid that is kind of milky white in color. The culture and watery liquid is mixed up and poured into ice cube trays and frozen. Four cubes can then later be used with rennet to make a 2 pound round of cheese. When you start getting low on cubes, you simply sterilize another quart of milk and use 4 cubes as "seed" for the next generation of starter. The problem is, the starter cubes must be used within 6 months or they die. So, I am trying to figure out how to dry the starter to be able to keep a viable culture longer. I am 99% sure that your process for drying sourdough starter is the right answer, I just need to figure out how to make the adjustments specific to cheese rather than yeast cultures.


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## gardeneroo7 (Jun 30, 2013)

in the u.k, tobacco is highly taxed. im growing shed-loads of it as you can pretty much barter with it now. production of hand rolling tobacco is being ramped up for next year, with space being made for greenhouse and cold frames.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

Inor,
Try freeze drying it. Place it in an open container that is large in diameter and just cover the bottom. Place it into a frost free freezer and let it evaporate away. That will dry it without much impact on the product. I use that method to dry herbs and it works well. It will be a small batch but then you should be able to powder it and put it into the warm milk to reactivate it. Once it is freeze dried you might be able to store it in a vacuum pack bag wrapped in aluminum foil (to keep the light out) which is what they do for dried yeast.

All guesswork on my part so it may not work at all - I know that process would kill my sourdough starter but so would freezing it in liquid form. It might be worth a try.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

gardeneroo7 said:


> in the u.k, tobacco is highly taxed. im growing shed-loads of it as you can pretty much barter with it now. production of hand rolling tobacco is being ramped up for next year, with space being made for greenhouse and cold frames.


gardeneroo7,
What kind of fertilizer do you use with your tobacco? Do you smoke the plants before rolling them? I know that commercial plants use the stems in a smoldering fire in a large ventilated shed to smoke cure the leaves before processing them.


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