# How sharp a knife should be for outdoors use



## Nick22N (Dec 15, 2016)

I've been using my knife in the outdoors, batoning, whittling and making small spears and feather sticks. Sometimes the knife cuts the wood easily, sometime I gotta push really hard against the branch before I can shave off a layer of wood. Whenever I'm home, I sharpen my knife using a stone and ceramic pull through sharpener for a finish. I check if its sharp enough by cutting a sheet of paper. If its a smooth clean cut, I declare it as sharp enough. But how do I know if my knife is still sharp enough in the field after being used for a while batoning and whittling. I don't want to whip out a sharpener every now and then and sit down to sharpen it wen I'm outside. How do I judge if my knife is still good enough, sharp enough to be used safely for making feather sticks and for medium duty cutting work? My knife is made of 420HC..
The Gerber StrongArm..
(love or hate Gerber, but this knife is really wonderful and worth the money spent on it)

Sent from my ASUS_Z00LD using Tapatalk


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## csi-tech (Apr 13, 2013)

Mine are as sharp as I can possibly make them. My hunting knife (Boker Tree Brand) has to be especially sharp. Deer tallow will dull a knife in short order. I have dulled a razor sharp knife just caping out a buck.


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## Targetshooter (Dec 4, 2015)

I have a few knifes that I keep in my back pack , I have a knife for what ever I am going to us it for , a skinning knife , gutting knife , wood shaven knife , ect . that way you can save on haven to sharping you one knife all the time .


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## Chipper (Dec 22, 2012)

I keep the Kershaws razor sharp. Key is to never let them get to dull. Stop and sharpen even while in use.


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## dwight55 (Nov 9, 2012)

It took me a while to learn how to use a sharpening steel.

Get one, . . . learn how, . . . it is an absolutely essential tool for knife sharpening and maintaining.

One will definitely be in my BOB, . . . and you use it as you are using the knife, . . . watch how the knife cuts, . . . when it is lagging behind, . . . a few strokes on the steel and it is back to it's old sharp self.

A dull knife will cut you every time.

May God bless,
Dwight


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## bigwheel (Sep 22, 2014)

The best test I have found for an on the spot test of blade sharpness is to push it at a 45 degree angle over the top of the weak hand thumb nail. If it passes over easy its dull. If it hangs up..its about as sharp as its going to get. Depending on the knife..sharpening steps can vary. Most of my knives can be returned to razor sharp by use of a good steel (Not to get any nit picking which says a steel just straightens the blade as opposed to sharpening but can assure you a steel can sharpen most things..except maybe those super hard high dollar kraut knives..Hicnkles..Wuftoff..blah blah blah). Those things need a grinding wheel and professional Tinker. Thats why I dont buy crap like that. Now not to go contradicting myself here but noticed by nice 6" curved boner Forscnher/Victornox brand made by Yummpin Yimmines in Switzerland which is being somewhat abused in the kitchen knife drawer did not respond as expected to the steel so it got drug across the little V stone looking gizmo and back on the steel to finish up. Its now good as new. Now I have heard the kraut knives can be sharpened with a diamond impregnated steel..but since I dont own one..I aint sure.


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## The Tourist (Jun 9, 2016)

It depends on where you're going.

I can get anything sharp, but I would recommend a knife made of 1095 carbon steel for dryer country where you might have to strike it on a ferro rod to make a fire. The reason is that there is no chromium in 1095, and it will rust.

If you're going into wet country (especially in harsh conditions) look for a knife with cobalt in it. It will keep a better edge and most of the knives using cobalt have some chromium in them.


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## stevekozak (Oct 4, 2015)

Your knife will stay sharper if you quit using it as an axe.


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## Medic33 (Mar 29, 2015)

a sharp knife is a safe knife -
a sharp knife is a time saving knife
a sharp knife is a life saver
sharpen it till you can shave the back of your hand.


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## Skukuza (Jan 4, 2017)

A blunt or dull knife is dangerous for all reasons.


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## Inor (Mar 22, 2013)

For me, the question is what is the geometry of the blade and what do I want it to do. If I am sharpening my Buck 119 hunting knife, I absolutely do NOT want it to be scalpel sharp. I never sharpen it beyond 600 grit and I never use the shave hair test on it. I want it to have the micro serrations, so it cuts better on the pull stroke than on a simple push down. Why? Because when I am out in the woods and need to cut off a 1" round branch, I want to pull through the cut like a saw rather than push down through it. (I guess I am just lazy and frankly, pushing a razor sharp 25 degree angle knife straight through an inch of wet wood is more than most folks can do physically.)

If I am sharpening carving chisels, then yes, I want a 10 or 12 degree angle and I take them to 8000 grit then follow up with jeweler's rouge. Again, because when I am carving I want to push away VERY small bits of material. In other words, no slicing.

With Mrs Inor's kitchen knives, I usually go with 18 degrees and take them to 1000 grit.


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## ifithitu (May 1, 2017)

I wouldn't carry a knife,that wasn't sharpe.:vs_peace:


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## Mule13 (Dec 30, 2012)

alot fo good answers to your question here.blade geometry by mr Inor is correct, has alot to do with sharpness and how long it stays sharp. also metal the blade is made of and the heat treat process blade went thru. Ultimately any knife will dull out after usage. blades are treated to be strong and hold an edge well.but to hold a edge forever they'd have to be so hard that they'd chip very easily, and you'd never get a good edge when sharpening it. so they have to be made with a happy medium, hard but pliable. best answer is (like mr Chipper said) bring a small wet stone with and occasionally touch up the edge as you use it.


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## The Tourist (Jun 9, 2016)

There's a type of an edge the Japanese refer to as "kirinaga." This of it as a sharp knife, with a toothy edge that can grap a wet tomato and slice cleanly through it.

The warning I give here is that one tool cannot be expected to do all things. I'd find a three inch blade and have it polished, a knife designed for cooking, and a general camp knife.


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## Camel923 (Aug 13, 2014)

As sharp as I can get it.


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## Leon (Jan 30, 2012)

csi-tech said:


> Mine are as sharp as I can possibly make them. My hunting knife (Boker Tree Brand) has to be especially sharp. Deer tallow will dull a knife in short order. I have dulled a razor sharp knife just caping out a buck.


 it doesn't so much as dull as it covers up the blade edge in gunk that sticks to it closely.


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## tango (Apr 12, 2013)

Any knife you use should be scary sharp


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## The Tourist (Jun 9, 2016)

I would also pick a good angle.

For example, many of my EDC pocket knives are in the 15 to 18 degree range. I live in the city, and "bushcraft" is unlikely.

For a wilderness or camping knife, I would use the same stones, but set the angle at 20 to 22 degrees.


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