# Reloading?



## taps50 (Sep 28, 2013)

I am thinking about getting a reloading set up, but I don't know what I will need in all to start reloading. Does anybody know of a good starter set, or can anyone tell me what I will all need and maybe give me a link to a good set up?


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## Oddcaliber (Feb 17, 2014)

You can get a good starter press from Lee. Many reloaders have started with there equipment and I still have mine. RCBS, is an other good choice though a bit on the high side money wise.


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## Notsoyoung (Dec 2, 2013)

Oddcaliber said:


> You can get a good starter press from Lee. Many reloaders have started with there equipment and I still have mine. RCBS, is an other good choice though a bit on the high side money wise.


What he said. In addition I would suggest getting a good scale and micrometer.


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## dsdmmat (Nov 9, 2012)

You can get a complete set up from many companies. RCBS is what I have, Lee was mentioned by Oddcaliber both are good companies and have starter kits ranging in price from around 100 to as high as 500 for a single stage press set up with all the things you need. 

One of the most important thing you will need to get is a load book. Read the first 9 or so chapters before the actual load data. They describe in detail the process and why things are done in a certian way. I have been loading for around 30 years and have many load books. Every company seems to put out a new edition every year or so. 

Another thing you will want to get if you are loading bottle neck cartridges is a case guage. this allows you to check the head spacing on a round to ensure it will fit your gun. 

I recommend the RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme kit (only because I have used RCBS for the past 30 years). It is on the expensive side at around 340 dollars at my local gun store. They are a good company and weill replace parts on your presses for life.


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## Denver (Nov 16, 2012)

All the major companies have good starter kits. I am a Lee fan, but have equipment from all the companies. The first thing to get before ANY equipment is to get 1 or 2 reloading manuals. I like Hornady's and Sierra. They have several chapters for new loaders. Relaoding is something I got into to make more accurate ammo for my rifles. Then it was so I could shoot more. Then during the ammo scare in the 90's and last year it was so I could just have ammo to shoot. Now its more of a hobby as I have more than I will ever shoot unless SHTF. Recently I decided to cast my own bullets so first was the manual then more equipment and supplies. It is a great hobby. You will possibly save a little money, but I have spent many cold winter evenings loading or reading about it. A lot better than TV!!!!!!!!!!!

After you get a manual check Craigs List, Ebay, and Gunbroker. They usually have supplies, and equipment new and used. YouTube is also a good resource to learn about our hobby. 

I have been a gun guy since I was 5, and reloading since I was 10. I am 57 and still enjoy it. My wife was the one who got us into prepping and reloading was already a part of my life so it was a natural fit. 

Go slow and have fun. Having 5000 primmers, 5000 bullets, and 10 lbs of powder along with some brass is more comforting than spending hours waiting in line at Wally World or Gander hoping to find ammo. Its another skill to have in your prepper tool box!!


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

dsdmmat said:


> You can get a complete set up from many companies. RCBS is what I have, Lee was mentioned by Oddcaliber both are good companies and have starter kits ranging in price from around 100 to as high as 500 for a single stage press set up with all the things you need.
> 
> One of the most important thing you will need to get is a load book. Read the first 9 or so chapters before the actual load data. They describe in detail the process and why things are done in a certian way. I have been loading for around 30 years and have many load books. Every company seems to put out a new edition every year or so.
> 
> ...


Both Lee and RCBS replace parts when they break, and you will break parts.


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## Chipper (Dec 22, 2012)

Start with the Lee 4 hole turret press. Very inexpensive to get loading with this setup. Can be used as a single or progressive. I really like being able to set up my dies and leave them in a turret and never having to touch or adjust them again. Quick and easy to switch from one caliber to another. I'm loading 9mm to 338 Lapua mag with mine.


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## Moonshinedave (Mar 28, 2013)

Here is a kit, I was considering from amazon for about $327, it's a single stage, but it has about everything except the dies. There was a time I did a lot of checking into reloading, Hornady was the brand I decided to get, but that is just me, I've talked to others who have other brands and all appear to be happy with their choice. Good Luck.


Hornady 85003 Lock N Load Classic Reloading Press Kit


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## tango (Apr 12, 2013)

dsdmmat is spot on.
I have used RCBS equipment and dies since the mid 70's.
They have the best warranty and customer service, (I have only had to warranty one piece on my auto priming tool), in all those years.
Buy a manual and read it before you buy anything.
There is some expense in the beginning, but it is a one time purchase.


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## pastornator (Apr 5, 2013)

All good info above. I have multiple presses but like many, started out with the RCBS Rock Chucker. It is a sturdy lifetime long press that can do most rifle and pistol cartridges. I also have a Lee press, which is more light duty than the RCBS, but plenty sufficient for most all loading duties. Why several presses? I simply got tired of changing dies every time I loaded, so now I set one die in one press and the other in another. Speeds the process. I also invested in a Hornady Pro-Jector progressive press and primarily use that for pistol ammo. With multiple die sations and a huge ram that can easily handle the task load of forming or pressing operations on miltiple dies at one time, it allows me to crank out a finished round with every stroke of the press. It is not more difficult to use a progressive press than a single stage, except the set up time takes a bit because one has to set all the dies and powder measure at once and then keep one's head about him while loading; form a routine -- stick a case, prime the next, drop the powder-click-click, set the bullet, press -- then repeat, and so on until the ammo can is full to the top!

Loading itself is rather easier than most people who haven't done it imagine. There is a learning curve of sorts while a person gets configured (and worries about every step), but that soon goes away and the satisfaction of knowing that the owner is producing quality ammo him or herself is part of the pleasure of the operation.

Working with the single-stage press, it is best to work in lots. In other words, get 100 cases prepared by cleaning, inspecting, etc., then lube them (if required - mostly for rifle), size and de-cap (remove primer), wipe down, re-prime (I tend to use a Lee hand primer for rifle and the progressive press primer for pistol and NEVER touch a primer with your fingers -- the oil from fingers can cause mis- or hang-fires! -- use tweezers always, and if in doubt, throw it out!), then charge all the cases (i use a "block" that I drilled out of a piece of timber that holds 20 rounds upright), insert bullets by hand, and press and crimp. If one works with the 100 (or whatever) lot of cases at a time, maximum speed can be found with the single stage press. It also helps to lock the locking ring on dies once the proper depth is found for any given press setup. That way, when switching dies from the sizing die to the seating die the changeover goes quickly. Just unscrew one, screw in the other, and run a test case to make sure all is well.

A couple of needed tools besides press and dies: A powder measure and a scale. One CAN scale EVERY load of powder, but that would get really time consuming. A powder measure simply uses an adjustable stop in a cylinder that when tipped up into the powder supply fills, and when rotated and tipped down to the discharge port, dumps the measured powder into either a cartridge or scale pan. I noted the routine above. Turn the handle to fill with powder, click, click, then turn it down to discharge, click, click. Repeat. The "clicks" are my routine, where I bounce the cylinder at the end of either stroke to keep everything uniform, sort of like tapping a measuring cup to make sure that there are no air spaces, etc. So, swing, click-click, swing, click-click, swing, click-click, for the powder measure. I always measure 10 throws of powder to make sure that I am averaging the amount I want thrown with repeatability. I also stop and re-weigh the powder charge every 50 or so rounds to make sure that the measure is still throwing accurately. Pistol powders are easier to measure than rifle, as the grains are considerably smaller (tiny disks versus little pegs). But, oftentimes pistol loads throw a rather small amount of powder -- seldom is the entire case filled to capacity like it is for many rifle rounds, so charge is equally important! My pet rifle load for my .270 is a compressed load of powder using IMR 4350 (won't say how much as this load is carefully worked up for MY particular rifle and I would never allow anyone else to share that ammo as the headspace of the bullet is also custom length to fit my chamber using fire-formed brass). The bullet actually has to compress the powder charge to insert into the case, unlike my .45 acp target rounds that use just a dab of Bullesye pistol powder.

That brings me to the next ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY TOOL -- a great reloading book. Don't go by pet loads that others publish on the web to start, for one doesn't always know if they are "hot" low power, etc. Use a STANDARD LOADING BOOK that has tested loads and stick to middle-of-the-road loads at first as they tend to be the safest. Each load recipe in the book is tested and proved. Experimentation comes later in the process after one learns the basics, but that experimentation is one of the real joys of loading. For instance for national matches, I carefully worked up a load for my pet Government Model that gave me tight groups with lowest possible recoil. I would load ten rounds of each of a variety of recipies and test fire from a Ransom rest for accuracy. Once I found a good load, I would start to play with it to see if I could tighten it up even more. Ultimately for trophy shoot rounds, I ended up doing a lot of case work using .45 Super cases, cut and reamed for both bullet and primer pocket to precise chamber size (.45 head spaces on the front edge of the case, not the rear rim like most other ammo and most .45 ACP ammo is "short" compared to the chamber in the barrel), then threw the precise powder load and set swaged hard lead bullets in place. That load got me one ragged hole at 25 yards with a rest, and just about as good with me holding by hand if I did my job right! Another for instance is my .270 long range load. Inspected, primer-pocket reamed, fire-formed cases that match my rifle's chamber, CCI standard rifle primer, IMR 4350, compressed, Hornady 140 Gr. BTSP. Shoots 3450 over the chrono and prints .20" at 100 yards from a rest. It took me an entire summer to work up that load, 10 rounds at a time. I tried a big box full of components until I found what my rifle loved (early pre-war Winchester, glass bedded, trigger job, target muzzle, accurized). I have successfully taken antelope at 1000 yards with that setup (was an extreme shot on an animal that another hunter wounded -- I am ethical and wanted to finish the job -- only shot I had so I found a rest and took it knowing my ballistics). That is what can be done if one learns the ropes!

Run of the mill cartridges that are loaded in bulk just for shooting don't need that level of care, but one should take time to work up a good load for whatever one fires. I load about a dozen different rounds, rifle and pistol.

Next tool is a good scale. It can be electronic or mechanical -- both work well. I've used my mechanical scale for a couple decades now and it is still good. I use a set of calibrated weights to insure accuracy when setting up the scale.

I alaready mentioned the Lee hand primer. That is a great tool that really speeds the priming process as one does not have to stroke a singe-stage press every time to prime and if one works with a partner, they can be priming while you are pressing!

A good powder measure goes with the scale... Many varieties, from hand operated to electronic. I use an RCBS manual version that has thrown tens of thousands of rounds. Still works great.

Final tool is a good space to work. Must be oil free, clean, no drafts, not too humid, etc. I mostly work in my basement in a room dedicated to loading and have build a heavy bench (found a piece of old bowling alley for the table top!). I've also made a portable loading station using one of those Black and Decker workmates with my equipment bolted to blocks of wood that I can clamp into place. Nicest setup I ever saw was a loading table that used aluminum sockets that allowed any tool to be moved to any hole in the table. That was sweet, but the dude had several hundred dollars tied up in the removable sockets alone! I'd rather spend that money on load components myself!


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## Tennessee (Feb 1, 2014)

Single stage RCBS is good choice but for multiple stages I would recommend Dillon Reloading Machines. Best customer service bar none.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

I use the Hornady Lock'n' load bushings and conversion kit in my RCBS RS3,that is until my secondhand 550BXL from the 80's shows up on the 15th


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## dsdmmat (Nov 9, 2012)

I have several RCBS presses. Two Rock chuckers (one with a piggy back III on it) and an Auto indexing Pro 2000. When I didn't have a lot of room I only had the two rock chuckers but after I built my reloading room I picked up a Pro 2000. 


The one thing that you want to make sure of is that your spouse never vacuums your reloading room, you may be buying her a new vacuum and a lot of flowers to get her to speak to you again.


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## Notsoyoung (Dec 2, 2013)

dsdmmat said:


> You can get a complete set up from many companies. RCBS is what I have, Lee was mentioned by Oddcaliber both are good companies and have starter kits ranging in price from around 100 to as high as 500 for a single stage press set up with all the things you need.
> 
> One of the most important thing you will need to get is a load book. Read the first 9 or so chapters before the actual load data. They describe in detail the process and why things are done in a certian way. I have been loading for around 30 years and have many load books. Every company seems to put out a new edition every year or so.
> 
> ...


I can't believe that I left out the most obvious and important thing you will need, a good manual. I guess it's just one of those things that is so obvious to me that I thought of it as a given. A BIG mistake on my part.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

Hornady equip has been very good to me. Even when I needed small parts not listed do to idiot behind the lever, they have sent them freebie.


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## Infidel (Dec 22, 2012)

I think equipment is less important than information All of the major manufacturers make good entry level kits that will contain most of what you need to get started. I would recommend as others here have that you start with a loading manual or 2, personally I like the Speer and Lyman manuals for their introduction to reloading chapters.

My personal preference for equipment is RCBS but I have bought plenty of Lee stuff too which is usually a bit cheaper. There is a difference in quality between RCBS and Lee but that is reflected in the difference in price also. I would start with a single stage kit only because I find them more consistent which is going to be the key to your reloading. I use a turret press for handgun rounds and .223 plinking ammo but for accurate & consistent rifle ammo I always go back to the single stage press. 

Reloading is a very rewarding hobby. There's nothing quite like loading your own ammo that will out shoot any and all factory ammo. I won't speak for everyone but I'm sure most of us here would be happy to let you pick our brains if you need to.

-Infidel


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## Charles Martel (Mar 10, 2014)

taps50 said:


> I am thinking about getting a reloading set up, but I don't know what I will need in all to start reloading. Does anybody know of a good starter set, or can anyone tell me what I will all need and maybe give me a link to a good set up?


Do it, man. Reloading is the only way to go. A lot of people simply wouldn't be able to afford to shoot/train, anymore, if they didn't have the ability to reload. Buying inexpensive components and assembling ammunition themselves is the only way a lot of budget preppers can stockpile the amount of ammo they need, too.

I bought an RCBS rockchucker kit a few years ago and have used it to assemble tens of thousands of rounds. I've upgraded some of the original items that came with the kit (the scale, etc.), but I still use the press to churn out hundreds of rounds a week. I like the simplicity of the single stage (I'm far less likely to make mistakes than I would with progressive presses I've used...but you might be better at multi-tasking than I am). I would recommend the rockchucker kit to any beginner. They are a great press and a great value.


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## Old Man (Dec 10, 2012)

Tennessee said:


> Single stage RCBS is good choice but for multiple stages I would recommend Dillon Reloading Machines. Best customer service bar none.


I have to agree with Tennessee. I know your just get start, but you just can get better than a Dillion. I have 2 550's. They are not cheap, but you can reload a lot of ammo in a short period of time. I have had one since 1997 and has been replaced once free. The second one in 2002 and have them sent be parts. They would ask what kind of problem I was having, then say we can send you the parts or you can send the machine in a we will repair or replace. You just can't go wrong with a Dillion. But again they are not cheap.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

AquaHull said:


> Both Lee and RCBS replace parts when they break, and you will break parts.


I just broke the handle on my Lee Hand Primer,the old style with the round primer tray. Then I picked up a dozen or so primers on the floor.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

I spent 6 months trying to figure this out. I really did not care about cost. Went back and forth single stage ,progressive and all the brands.
I settled on a Lee90030 here is why Low cost but they work . If you decide to keep going and buy a progressive you still have a fine single stage.
the 90030 vs the 90050 has the priming separate 9 out of ten I talked with that did a lot of reloading said that was the better way to go.
Last after all your research you just have to go with something and get started.
The Lee 90030 was 120 at the front door had to go wrong . Just add the dies you want.
I let you know in April how it works out all the stuff is sitting behind me right now.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

Smitty901 said:


> I spent 6 months trying to figure this out. I really did not care about cost. Went back and forth single stage ,progressive and all the brands.
> I settled on a Lee90030 here is why Low cost but they work . If you decide to keep going and buy a progressive you still have a fine single stage.
> the 90030 vs the 90050 has the priming separate 9 out of ten I talked with that did a lot of reloading said that was the better way to go.
> Last after all your research you just have to go with something and get started.
> ...


The Breech kit you're getting has the new XR Auto Prime(Xplosion resistant hand primer)with square primer tray.. If you get a hard to set primer and slip a bit on the handle, primers will scatter like cockroaches when the lights come on.

The darn cover likes to slide up where they load into the case, letting the tiny primers out of captivity. That's why I was using the old round one,but the handle broke and I don't think Lee sells parts for that one anymore so I'm S.O.L.

I spilled primers 3 different times today. I blew one up trying to get a stuck case out of the shellholder,because the primer wouldn't seat all the way.I used a brass punch and tack hammer. Good thing I was wearing gloves and glasses,this isn't my first rodeo,just one of many.

So you want to reload ?


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## wallyLOZ (May 12, 2013)

All good advice here. My two cents worth is, buy at least two manuals before you spend a penny on equipment. My favorites are Lee and Lyman. 

If you know a reloader, have them be your mentor. Watch them, use there equipment to load a few of your own if they will allow it. 

Lee makes fine equipment at a reasonable price. I would start with a Lee single stage kit, first. That way you don't have a large sum of money tied up if you decide the hobby is not for you.

I started in 1985 with a Lee that I still use today. Along the way, I added a Dillon 550 and an MEC single stage for 12 and 20 ga.

Have fun, be safe, and let us know about your progress.


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## pastornator (Apr 5, 2013)

AquaHull said:


> The Breech kit you're getting has the new XR Auto Prime(Xplosion resistant hand primer)with square primer tray.. If you get a hard to set primer and slip a bit on the handle, primers will scatter like cockroaches when the lights come on.
> 
> The darn cover likes to slide up where they load into the case, letting the tiny primers out of captivity. That's why I was using the old round one,but the handle broke and I don't think Lee sells parts for that one anymore so I'm S.O.L.
> 
> ...


These help when primer pockets don't cooperate:

RCBS Primer Pocket Swager Combo 2

These also work:

Hornady Primer Pocket Reamer Tool Small

I generally like to form rather than remove metal in the primer pocket area, but either will deal with tight or crimped pockets.

Case trimmers can also be handy, and can be used for the primer pockets as well.

Hornady Cam-Lock Case Trimmer Kit


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## shooter (Dec 25, 2012)

Moonshinedave said:


> Here is a kit, I was considering from amazon for about $327, it's a single stage, but it has about everything except the dies. There was a time I did a lot of checking into reloading, Hornady was the brand I decided to get, but that is just me, I've talked to others who have other brands and all appear to be happy with their choice. Good Luck.
> 
> Hornady 85003 Lock N Load Classic Reloading Press Kit


I have the Hornady Lock N Load kit, and have been using it for a few years now. It came with pretty much everything I needed at the time. I stated off using fresh brass so I did not have to worry about some bad brass slipping by me until I felt comfortable with the process. Then I bough a tumbler and media separator and started using all my saved brass. And now my collection of reloading gear is growing.

As for getting up to speed on how to reload I bout the book the ABC's of reloading, The Hornady kit came with there reloading manual and then I bought the Nosler reloading book as well. I wold then read the various loads for the calibers and compare the books. I also watch a few you tube videos on reloading, but you have to be careful there as some people "claim" to be exports but really have no idea what they are doing. The most important thing is, go slow, develop a system where you don't make take short cuts and can't mix things up. And don't do it if you are distracted, on the phone or feeling tired, as those can lead to mistakes and mistakes can be very bad.

Oh and the one extra perk of Hornady products is when you buy the kit from a retail store you cute the upc off and fill out a form and then they mail you 500 bullets. Plus any time you buy Hornady dies you do the same thing and get 100 bullets.


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## Infidel (Dec 22, 2012)

shooter said:


> *The most important thing is, go slow, develop a system where you don't make take short cuts and can't mix things up. And don't do it if you are distracted, on the phone or feeling tired, as those can lead to mistakes and mistakes can be very bad.*


Excellent advice and it bears repeating. I try to do all my reloading when no one is around, kids at school, mom at work. My workshop is a detached building so I can go out there and close myself in but that won't stop them from coming out and knocking on the door. I try to get the boys involved in the case prep stages but when it comes to throwing charges and seating bullets I try do that when they're not around.

-Infidel


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## Grim Reality (Mar 19, 2014)

I have used equipment by (in no particular order) Lee, RCBS, Hornady, Forster, Dillon etc. As a beginning loader I 
screwed up a few rounds along the way to becoming proficient. You MIGHT do the same thing...reloading skills are 
acquired with a steep learning curve. Safety is paramount. If you do not pay attention to established loading recipes 
(translate that to the information in a reloading manual) you CAN damage your gun...and yourself as well. Do I have 
to tell you that a reloader with a cold beer in his hand is asking for trouble? Remove all distractions and work at a 
time and place where you can devote all your attention to the task at hand. I would recommend you start with a 
single stage press...and there is no press better for the beginner than an RCBS Rockchucker. It is supremely rugged 
and able to load 98% of all cartridges out there. When you have a good feel for the process of creating ammunition, 
go ahead a move up to Dillon products. You will never find a company with a better track record of supporting their 
clientele. With Dillon, as a customer if you have a problem...they will fix it. 

Your initial investment can be small (relatively) or large...but some of your dollars will go to buying
brass, powder, primers, tumbling media, case lube, etcetera in addition to your loading press and dies. If you have a 
friend who is a reloader, already ask them to show you how they proceed when making their "home-grown" rounds. 
Unlike a manual, which is still ABSOLUTELY necessary, they can respond to question you will have. Hands-on 
experience can't be beat when it comes with an enlightened mentor. I am amazed at how much more expensive 
components are now-a-days than when I first began...but that's true of EVERYTHING! Factory loaded ammo is higher 
today than it has ever been. You will be able to create your own custom rounds for a good deal less. You will not, 
however, be able to reload 22LR ammo. That requires an enormous amount of special equipment...believe it or not. 

Enjoy an engaging new hobby...and stay safe!
Al


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## jimb1972 (Nov 12, 2012)

I started with one old Pacific press, then I moved up to two old presses and then three before I finally bought a Hornady Lock-N-Load AP. For getting started any old single stage that uses RCBS type shell holders will get the job done. That, a scale, a funnel, and a set of calipers and you are in business. Clean brass is pretty, but you can reload dirty stuff (handgun/carbide dies) reliably before getting the tumbler. I like LEE dies because they are cheap and work just as well as the expensive ones (kind of hate the o-ring instead of lock ring though) and I use the LEE factory crimp die on all my handgun loads.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

AquaHull said:


> The Breech kit you're getting has the new XR Auto Prime(Xplosion resistant hand primer)with square primer tray.. If you get a hard to set primer and slip a bit on the handle, primers will scatter like cockroaches when the lights come on.
> 
> The darn cover likes to slide up where they load into the case, letting the tiny primers out of captivity. That's why I was using the old round one,but the handle broke and I don't think Lee sells parts for that one anymore so I'm S.O.L.
> 
> ...


 Thanks for the heads up I had heard a bit about that. After reading your post I picked up a RCBS hand primer just to cover that


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

I just read that the RCBS hand primer has issues, I also found out the new style handle works for my old style round Lee hand primer.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

AquaHull said:


> I just read that the RCBS hand primer has issues, I also found out the new style handle works for my old style round Lee hand primer.


 Once we get this all figured out. I will purchase a progressive system. The Hornady Lock-N-Load has stood out for me in my research as has the RCBS.
I know the dies are interchangeable. It seems many also praise the Lee dies with factory crimp. I am sure once it gets going one will be set up for nothing but 9mm and another for 5.56 . Latter one setup for use in other calibers as needed. I do not like having to change thing to switch calibers I just as soon have it sitting there ready to go.
I have way to many 38,380 45's around to worry about reloading them yet.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

AquaHull said:


> I just read that the RCBS hand primer has issues, I also found out the new style handle works for my old style round Lee hand primer.


 Once we get this all figured out. I will purchase a progressive system. The Hornady Lock-N-Load has stood out for me in my research as has the RCBS.
I know the dies are interchangeable. It seems many also praise the Lee dies with factory crimp. I am sure once it gets going one will be set up for nothing but 9mm and another for 5.56 . Latter one setup for use in other calibers as needed. I do not like having to change thing to switch calibers I just as soon have it sitting there ready to go.
I have way to many 38,380 45's around to worry about reloading them yet.
For shot gun I going to get MEC local brand been around a long time used by many here.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

The Lee Factory Crimp Die works good for jacketed bullets,but isn't worth a crap with Lead Boolits.

You simply can not go wrong with anything from Mayville Engineering Company

As I was thinking of the Red Green show I watched last night I had an idea.

I'm going to use Duck Tape and tape the front of the cover and plate together on the Lee Hand Primer.


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## jimb1972 (Nov 12, 2012)

AquaHull said:


> The Lee Factory Crimp Die works good for jacketed bullets,but isn't worth a crap with Lead Boolits.
> 
> You simply can not go wrong with anything from Mayville Engineering Company


That has not been my experience with the factory crimp die. I have a 225gr LTC(lead truncated cone) .45 acp load with 5grs. of unique that will damn near put them all through one hole out of my witness match pistol.


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## bushrat (Oct 21, 2013)

All good information here. And I don't mean to discourage you, but unfortunately, you're almost a day late and a dollar short, so to speak. Hope you can find components and powder. It is available if you hunt around, but can be tough depending on what you want to load. Good luck!


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

We will still get the powder and primers for a while yet prices will jump around. Once STHF, if it does it won't madder you have what you have in stock and that is that.
If they were not so worried about the next election the supply's would have been cut already by EO.


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## Notsoyoung (Dec 2, 2013)

AquaHull said:


> The Lee Factory Crimp Die works good for jacketed bullets,but isn't worth a crap with Lead Boolits.
> .


I have never had any problems crimping lead bullets with my Lee Factory crimp die.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

I guess we will find out soon. All the stuff is sitting behind me. In a couple weeks or so we will get started.


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## AquaHull (Jun 10, 2012)

Notsoyoung said:


> I have never had any problems crimping lead bullets with my Lee Factory crimp die.


Keep on keeping on then, I was taught by a bullet caster.


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## coldbluesteel (Dec 23, 2013)

I run all my loads for 45 acp through a factory crimp die. Both my home cast bullets and factory jacketed ones.


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## Infidel (Dec 22, 2012)

Smitty901 said:


> Once we get this all figured out. I will purchase a progressive system. The Hornady Lock-N-Load has stood out for me in my research as has the RCBS.
> I know the dies are interchangeable. It seems many also praise the Lee dies with factory crimp. I am sure once it gets going one will be set up for nothing but 9mm and another for 5.56 . Latter one setup for use in other calibers as needed. I do not like having to change thing to switch calibers I just as soon have it sitting there ready to go.
> I have way to many 38,380 45's around to worry about reloading them yet.
> For shot gun I going to get MEC local brand been around a long time used by many here.


The lock and load AP would be a good press if you want quick change capability as would a Dillon with a tool head set up for each cartridge that you reload. Dillon is probably faster to change but the Hornady will get you there for less money. Both have excellent reputations and if it were me I would probably go with the Hornady for the price difference. Just go slow with it in the beginning until you are comfortable with the process and in no time you will find yourself in your loading room for hours on end loading your own ammo. I have a tendency to lose track of time when I'm out in the shop which drives my wife nuts. Now that I'm casting my own bullets it's even worse, I can spend hours out there.

-Infidel


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