# Best buy on solar set up



## Broncosfan (Mar 2, 2014)

Looking to build a solar set up to run my security camera, monitor and dvr. Maybe a few lights. Would like to use for the security set up 24/7 so it always has power. Had a problem last night when the power was out. Someone drove in my yard thinking I left the generator out. Would like to buy a complete kit if possible. 100 watt panel inverter etc. Recommendations on the best batteries. Where do I buy a good set up for reasonable price?


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## dwight55 (Nov 9, 2012)

Broncosfan said:


> Looking to build a solar set up to run my security camera, monitor and dvr. Maybe a few lights. Would like to use for the security set up 24/7 so it always has power. Had a problem last night when the power was out. Someone drove in my yard thinking I left the generator out. Would like to buy a complete kit if possible. 100 watt panel inverter etc. Recommendations on the best batteries. Where do I buy a good set up for reasonable price?


Bronco, . . . I have bought two 2000 watt inverters from Harbor Freight, . . . got em both on sale for right at $100 each.

https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...nuous4000-watt-peak-power-inverter-63429.html

Mine runs all of my lights (all LED bulbs) downstairs, . . . 2 bedrooms, bath, living room, family room, kitchen, 2 pantries, . . . plus will run my computer, and modem. Additionally, I can charge my phone, Ipad, tablet, etc off the same power supply.

So far, every time the electric goes off and we turn it on to use it, . . . electric comes back on before we run out of power, . . . so until this spring when I do a full power test on it, I won't know for sure how long it will last. I have run it for several hours once though.

The second one is used by our veteran group, . . . we power a twin amplifier, 4 speaker, "BIG" PA system with it for some of our functions.

As a test, . . . we cranked the power on it, . . . added a cd player, . . . and serenaded the local country side for 45 minutes with the best of Credence Clearwater, . . . when the cd ended we ended the test. We knew it would work for us.

On both of them, we are using simple deep cycle automotive batteries.

I've also got a 100 watt solar panel and controller I will be using to keep my batteries charged (eventually I'll have 3 on my system). The panel I got is similar to this one, . . . off Ebay, this is not the one I got but is similar:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/100Watt-10...146071?hash=item2137539817:g:fu8AAOSw8H1aYqwS

So far, . . . $150 for the panel set, . . . $100 for the inverter, . . . $160 for 2 batteries.

(The information below is from a post on another forum, . . . somebody asked a similar question, . . . this was my answer to him)

I also set up my house to use it, . . .

Right now my solar setup is really simple, . . . one panel, . . . one controller, . . . move it back and forth from one battery to another. I don't know why they won't but I've been told that if you have several batteries in tandem, . . . solar panels don't like to finish the charge, . . . will quit too soon.

I don't know if it's true, . . . but since mine is pretty small for the time being, . . . it works for me.

Panel / controller / wires, etc. came off Ebay, . . . 100 watt panel, . . . $150.

The panel charges the battery, . . . presently hooked to my 2000 watt inverter (gonna get a bigger one in the not too distant future, hopefully). My present system, . . . will run all the lighting in my living quarters, plus run my computer, charging stations, modem, and computer.

The first picture is my one battery and inverter, . . . since have a second battery, . . . will add 3rd.

2nd pic shows my regular home panel on the left, . . . and the sub panel on the right.

The sub panel has a special circuit breaker, . . . shown in the 3rd pic, . . . when it is moved from one position to the other, . . . it turns off either the regular power or the inverter power, . . . THEN allows you to turn on the other one. Both cannot be on at the same time.

The sub panel also has ONLY the things powered by my inverter (charged by my solar panel).

The 3rd picture shows that special circuit breaker.

The 4th picture is just the sub panel, labeled so we know what we are powering.

I did leave one thing out in my original post, . . . said it will power everything but the AC, . . . well, . . . it won't power the electric stove either. But with the third battery and an inverter upgrade, . . . those will be the only things I won't be able to use, . . . and I'm seriously planning on firing this thing up later this spring, . . . giving it a run out, . . . see if it will indeed keep me in business.

May God bless,
Dwight


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## MountainGirl (Oct 29, 2017)

Broncosfan said:


> Looking to build a solar set up to run my security camera, monitor and dvr. Maybe a few lights. Would like to use for the security set up 24/7 so it always has power. Had a problem last night when the power was out. Someone drove in my yard thinking I left the generator out. Would like to buy a complete kit if possible. 100 watt panel inverter etc. Recommendations on the best batteries. Where do I buy a good set up for reasonable price?


Hi, will 100watts be enough? There are others here much more knowledgeable than me, but I'd like to share some thoughts. From the sounds of what you want - you might want to do a little work first, and it seems complicated but it's really not. I had to learn about all this when designing my full system so my suggestions might be a different way around the barn, but it worked for me.

Because the batteries are the heart of the system - you need to think in two directions: using them, and recharging them.

Make a list of everything you want to run. For each thing, list each device's watts, amps, estimated run time in a 24hr period, then do the math. Something like this:









In that ^^^ I need 220 watts and 1.3 amp/hrs worth of juice stored in my battery, for each day.

A 30watt bulb turned on for 4 hours will use less of your battery than a security set-up running 24/7. As soon as you have the numbers as to how much battery you need - you can figure out what size/kind of batteries to get (and what size inverter you'll need, etc) But it starts with knowing how much juice it will take to do what you want to do - and I dont know if there is an 'off the shelf kit' for your needs. Oh, there are kits out there - but without knowing what size you need the chance to over-buy or under-buy is great (Unless for you money is no object then go buy the biggest one and have a ball!!)

Again, others here can be of much more help, and sorry if you knew all this already; no offense intended.

Edit: fixed the chart, removed other incorrect data. Apologies for misleading information; I need to stay out of the technical stuff.

2nd Edit: Put my original chart back up. Thanks Rancher.


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## MountainGirl (Oct 29, 2017)

dwight55 said:


> Right now my solar setup is really simple, . . . one panel, . . . one controller, . . . move it back and forth from one battery to another. I don't know why they won't but I've been told that if you have several batteries in tandem, . . . solar panels don't like to finish the charge, . . . will quit too soon.
> 
> I don't know if it's true,


Um...not true. Panels don't care about what's takin their juice; they put out what they put out. Over time, if the batteries are old and/or not maintained, etc, they'll lose their ability to fully recharge. You can tell if that's happening if they discharge faster than usual.

Another possibility is the panel output is undersized to the batteries' total capacity...and the sun went down. :vs_moon:


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## Broncosfan (Mar 2, 2014)

MountainGirl said:


> Hi, will 100watts be enough? There are others here much more knowledgeable than me, but I'd like to share some thoughts. From the sounds of what you want - you might want to do a little work first, and it seems complicated but it's really not. I had to learn about all this when designing my full system so my suggestions might be a different way around the barn, but it worked for me.
> 
> Because the batteries are the heart of the system - you need to think in two directions: using them, and recharging them.
> 
> ...


Mountain Girl
Thanks for the information. I'm just in the planning stage. The more I find out the better to plan my system. I really hadn't gave it much thought until today when I seen someone was in the yard. Right now the plan is a system big enough to run the security system 24/7 and maybe a couple of light outside. I would like maybe a few lights in the house when the power is out.


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## Gunn (Jan 1, 2016)

All solar info is appreciated. We are selling our half in our BOL. We just bought another piece further out. We want to build a container home completely off the grid.


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## Back Pack Hack (Sep 15, 2016)

MountainGirl said:


>


Running 30 watts for 4 hours does not consume 120 watts. It consumes 120 _watt-hours._ And it's _amp-hours_, not amps.


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## MountainGirl (Oct 29, 2017)

Back Pack Hack said:


> Running 30 watts for 4 hours does not consume 120 watts. It consumes 120 _watt-hours._ And it's _amp-hours_, not amps.


Fixed the chart. Thanks.

Edit: Changed it back. Thanks.


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## dwight55 (Nov 9, 2012)

It took me a while to find out what I had heard, . . . because I only remembered the result, . . . not the reason:

Right now my solar setup is really simple, . . . one panel, . . . one controller, . . . move it back and forth from one battery to another._* I don't know why they won't but I've been told that if you have several batteries in tandem, . . . solar panels don't like to finish the charge, . . . will quit too soon. *_



MountainGirl said:


> Um...not true. Panels don't care about what's takin their juice; they put out what they put out. Over time, if the batteries are old and/or not maintained, etc, they'll lose their ability to fully recharge. You can tell if that's happening if they discharge faster than usual.
> 
> Another possibility is the panel output is undersized to the batteries' total capacity...and the sun went down. :vs_moon:


This was an answer on another forum asking why his batteries did not always top off:

I would make sure that your charge controller is suited and set up for your array and battery. It should be rated for about 1/10 of the battery's amp-hours. _It should be of a design that will always hold "float" voltage, and not be of the kind that waits until battery voltage drops below some threshold to allow charging_ (some solar chargers are still like this, and these will sit there NOT not topping off your battery whenever the sun shines, if you haven't drained them down enough.

I take from what the responder said that newer controllers don't have that problem, . . . so you probably are correct MountainGirl, . . .

I'll find out later this spring, . . . gonna put my system into a full draw down test, . . . find out what I can and cannot run on what I have, . . . so far the kitchen stove and AC are known and I'll have to check the fridge and the freezer, . . . can't lose my bologna and berries, . . . lol.

May God bless,
Dwight


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## sideKahr (Oct 15, 2014)

Don't forget to plan for days with no sun, even a few in a row depending on your climate. You must size your battery bank appropriately.

You can only draw your batteries down to a 50% state of charge if you wish to prolong their lifetime, so that must be factored in.

And there are inefficiencies in converting from 12 V DC to 120 V AC. An average efficiency is around 85% for a good quality inverter.


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## sideKahr (Oct 15, 2014)

I had some time, so I did some preliminary calculations using figures off the internet. I don't know how much experience you have with solar, so this is pretty basic.

Power use:
Camera Reolink RLC-411 wireless HD = 7.5 watts
Monitor LED 15 inch (most efficient) = 15 watts
DVR something like a Hikvision = 40 watts
TOTAL = 63 watts

Of course, if you already have your equipment, you can read the power requirements from the data plate, or use a meter like a "Kill-A-Watt" to measure it.

Surveilence system power requirements:
Power (in watts) = amps x volts so 63watts / 120 volts = 0.5 amps
0.5 amps x 24 hrs = 12.6 amp-hours per day

Battery capacity requirements:
Adjusted for 3 days without sun = 3 x 12.6 amp-hrs = 38 amp-hours
Adjusted for 50% depth of discharge = 76 amp-hours
Adjusted for inverter efficiency of 85% = 89 amp-hours

You can easily find a single deep cycle battery of 89 amp-hour capacity at Batteries Plus. A maintenance free AGM type will probably cost around $200-250.

Now as to the photovoltaic panels required, I'm not an expert at this and I'll defer to some of our other members who have more knowledge. I can tell you that a single monocrystalline 100 watt panel producing about 5-6 amps takes more than a day and a half of good sun to recharge my 160 amp-hour battery bank from about 50% depth of discharge. 

Good luck!


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## MountainGirl (Oct 29, 2017)

dwight55 said:


> I take from what the responder said that newer controllers don't have that problem, . . . so you probably are correct MountainGirl, . . .


Odds are I'm not, lol, but thanks!

I fixed the error in the chart, and removed other incorrect data from my first post here. 
Apologies, folks.


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## azrancher (Dec 14, 2014)

MountainGirl said:


> View attachment 68897
> 
> 
> Edit: fixed the chart, removed other incorrect data. Apologies for misleading information; I need to stay out of the technical stuff.





Back Pack Hack said:


> Running 30 watts for 4 hours does not consume 120 watts. It consumes 120 _watt-hours._ And it's _amp-hours_, not amps.





MountainGirl said:


> Fixed the chart. Thanks.


Sorry MG was correct the first time, it's Total Watts, and Total Amps Watt Hours or Amp Hours is the amount used in one hour, however since MG was using 4 hours and .1 hours, the Total Watts or Amps is correct.

I'll take my EE hat off now.

*Rancher*


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## MountainGirl (Oct 29, 2017)

azrancher said:


> Sorry MG was correct the first time, it's Total Watts, and Total Amps Watt Hours or Amp Hours is the amount used in one hour, however since MG was using 4 hours and .1 hours, the Total Watts or Amps is correct.
> 
> I'll take my EE hat off now.
> 
> *Rancher*


Thanks, Rancher. I put my original chart back up. 
I'm too new to all this to catch the finer points; 
doin the best I can just to understand it...
still all seems like magic fairies to me


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## sideKahr (Oct 15, 2014)

MountainGirl said:


> ...doin the best I can just to understand it...
> still all seems like magic fairies to me


The correct technical term is Pixies.


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## MountainGirl (Oct 29, 2017)

sideKahr said:


> The correct technical term is Pixies.


_It is???_

_Sigh...I give up..._









:vs_wave::vs_love:


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## Back Pack Hack (Sep 15, 2016)

azrancher said:


> Sorry MG was correct the first time, it's Total Watts, and Total Amps Watt Hours or Amp Hours is the amount used in one hour, however since MG was using 4 hours and .1 hours, the Total Watts or Amps is correct.
> 
> I'll take my EE hat off now.
> 
> *Rancher*


I'll have to disagree. Watts is power used. Amps is current flow.

Watt-hours is the wattage consumed in one hour. Amp-hour is the amperage flowing for an hour.

Using vernacular terms like "total watts" and "total amps" as substitutes for watt-hours and amp-hours leads to confusion.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.


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## soyer38301 (Jul 27, 2017)

sideKahr said:


> Don't forget to plan for days with no sun, even a few in a row depending on your climate. You must size your battery bank appropriately.
> 
> You can only draw your batteries down to a 50% state of charge if you wish to prolong their lifetime, so that must be factored in.
> 
> And there are inefficiencies in converting from 12 V DC to 120 V AC. An average efficiency is around 85% for a good quality inverter.


If you can plan for it to run some lights or other appliances in the dc voltage you are storing. Will relieve some of the inefficiencies of the conversion. Just a thought...

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk


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## Brettny (Apr 26, 2017)

With what you say in the first post you want to run u wont need nearly a 2kw generator. 1500w max bu i would keep it as small as possible.
Also i have a 2 year old HF 1500w inverter, i used it about 1.5hrs total basicly just testing it out on different loads. This past month i took it out and hooked it to a battery. It started smoking before i even turned it on. Odd thing is that it still works. Took it appart and one of the $2 capacitors in it blew up. I didnt repair it but i also wouldnt buy another. Good name brand inverters like xantrex are prety low cost. If your going to go cheap on stuff just order it from china directly.


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## sideKahr (Oct 15, 2014)

Thumbs up on @Brettny 's suggestion. I use a 1000 watt pure sine wave Xantrex inverter, and after a year it's still good to go.


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## budgetprepp-n (Apr 7, 2013)

I hope a small suggestion is ok. Figuring out how much power you are using can be pretty cool. 
My suggestion is to buy a kill watts meter they can really surprise you with what is very efficient and what is not.

A lot of people buy a kit there just getting into solar and the idea of buying parts and building your own can be overwhelming.
But just try and keep in mind that there are 3 main parts. Solar panels, Controller and battery. 
Learn what each of them do and you got it whipped. ^ ^ -> should these be capitalized?


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