# New axe advice



## Chiefster23 (Feb 5, 2016)

I’m tired of all the politics. Time for a prepper subject.
I need a new toy. I currently have a very, very old hatchet that I inherited somewhere along the line. It was broken at one time and gas-welded repaired. The tool is still servicable and holds an edge well. But I think it’s time for a replacement.

So I’m looking for something slightly larger than a hatchet. A small axe with a 14 to 18 inch handle for use in brush clearing and splitting off small kindling wood to start my coal stove. I guess something along the lines of an all round small camp axe. Online reviews show that pretty much everything locally available is junk. Depot and Lowes axes are rated junk. I saw a sweet little axe at my local Stihl dealer that looked perfect. But it is also not rated very high. Soft metal.

Council tools stuff is american made and rated high quality, but pretty damned expensive. One of their axes to fit my job would run well over $100 plus their shipping is VERY expensive. I’ve seen council tool axes on ebay and amazon for half price but I suspect these are counterfeit.

So what say you? What do you recommend that isn’t going to break the bank?


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

Myself I have Estwing axes, they are one piece steel, unbreakable.

I have used them for 50+ years.

I have not bought one for decades, did a quick search they run 30-60 bucks.

They were originally made by Buck Brothers in Millbury Ma. under the Estwing name.

There were raw forgings in their back yard that had flaws that we use to take home and sharpen up as kids.

We hardened the edge with a torch and added our own grips.

Used my dad's 12 inch disc sander to do the job, still have and use that sander to this day for the same thing plus other shop stuff. 

The sander and drill press were made in 1952, I have both, used all the time, 

I just replaced the belt on the drill press last summer, 65 years old!!!

Mine get used for trimming branches before felling a tree if needed, usually to clear an egress.

Now, I can't say where they are made anymore with the manufacturing exodus to chinko land.

They show a 16 inch model.


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## Chipper (Dec 22, 2012)

Been having great luck with Fiskars products.

Fiskars Global Site


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

I second the one peace type . No handles to break.


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## rstanek (Nov 9, 2012)

I have to second on estwing, they make a good product, have been using their hammers since 1975......


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## dwight55 (Nov 9, 2012)

Let me step in here with another good word for Estwing. 

And I'm also going to be in that 1975 or thereabouts time frame as to when I started using their products.

They are great, . . . including their small ax, . . . I think my son's is something near 30 inches, . . . very maneuverable, very handy, and would easily go on the back of a back pack or on the side, . . . for accessability. 

Best wishes on your search, . . . but if you pick one of these up, . . . hold it in your hand a moment or two . . . you really might end the search.

May God bless,
Dwight


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## Robie (Jun 2, 2016)

I love axes and hatchets. I probably have 6-8 that have been in the family over the many years.

I like the feel of a nice wooden handle and well-forged head. Nothing against Fiskers.I have a splitting ax by them and it works great.

If I had to buy something bigger than a hatchet and didn't want to break the bank, I 'd order this. It gets great reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D74JBCY/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3FF88M0XX19S7&colid=IH32B8C2C34C&psc=1

I am presently working on this one I've had since Cub Scouts...probably 55 years old.

Just finished a sheath for it Sunday...


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## dwight55 (Nov 9, 2012)

Took a couple of pics for you.

This one is +/- 25 years old.

May God bless,
Dwight


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## Chiefster23 (Feb 5, 2016)

I read a lot of online reviews before buying, but online reviews are very suspect. Dishonest people give great reviews on junky merchandise just to promote sales. That’s why I’m asking here. That said..... you guys are saying older estwing is good. Their newer axes have a reputation for softer steel. Seems that many old name brands have switched to cheaper manufacturing and new quality isn’t equal to old quality. Same for Stihl and Stihl uses ash instead of hickory handles. I’m sort of leaning toward husqvarna. But keep those recommendations coming because I value them much more than online reviews.


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

If the edge is soft you can harden it with an oxy/acetylene torch and old motor oil.


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## rstanek (Nov 9, 2012)

Whenever I purchase a new hammer, axe, etc, I always take several and tap them against each other, the one that has a ring to it, I put back on the shelf....


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## Robie (Jun 2, 2016)

Another thing you may want to consider is the coating on the handle.

I've never had to use an axe or hatchet long enough to worry about blisters but those that do prefer a smooth finish. 

I used to think wrapping something or dipping the handle in a protective coating was a good idea for grip. Everything I read says that coatings create more fatigue and more blisters.

I scrape/sand the finish off all the new handles I get and apply boiled linseed oil.

Just more confusing stuff to consider....:tango_face_wink:


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

rstanek said:


> Whenever I purchase a new hammer, axe, etc, I always take several and tap them against each other, the one that has a ring to it, I put back on the shelf....


You put the ringing one back?


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## rstanek (Nov 9, 2012)

SOCOM42 said:


> You put the ringing one back?


Yes, this means it's not tempered properly....


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

@rstanek , I have dealt with steel and heat treating for 64 years, started at 12, primary background is a toolmaker and engineer.

I say this so you don't thing I am talking out my ass, It is the exact opposite, generally a ring test is used to detect cracks or soft steel.

Every time I mount a grinding wheel on my surface grinder, I do a ring test first, it has to ring.

I even use an ultrasonic ring test for flaws in gun barrels, the machine even tell where they are.

Dependent on the material a ring or flat will indicate certain things.

You can do whatever you want, that is your business, I will stay with my opinion and training.

Just wanted to let you know what i have learned from day one so to speak..


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## rstanek (Nov 9, 2012)

SOCOM42 said:


> @rstanek , I have dealt with steel and heat treating for 64 years, started at 12, primary backgroun is a toolmaker and engineer.
> 
> I say this so you don't thing I am talking out my ass, It is the exact opposite, generally a ring test is used to detect cracks or soft steel.
> 
> ...


I'm not going to challenge your post, you are much more qualified to analyze this then I. I was referring to when I purchased framing hammers with corrugated heads, it always seemed that a hammer without the now infamous ring seemed to hold up better over time. I just assumed it had to do with the tempering, correct me if I'm wrong.....


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

There are several things that can dampen the ring in an object.

proper heat treat with say a rubber grip, will go twink for lack of a better description.

Even wooden handles or plastic on chisels will dampen the ring, need to listed for the very short twink.

Rule of thumb, object should be 4X longer that the width at minimum for a harmonic resonation.

If you have a knife with full tang and either wood scales or full plastic cast handle

it will not ring the responding sound still be a sharp response but no twink.

I made over 6 thousand hardened steel scope mounts, each one was ring tested, 

unhardened they would go thud, after HT they went twing.

What kept them from ringing is that they were not a flat shape but a right angle which canceled out the harmonic reaction.

We destruct tested one which cracked about an inch long, it went thud after the crack.

Are you talking about the flat knurl face on roofing hammers? As said you have to consider several factors in applying the test.

It has to do with the hardening cycle,

the tempering just brings down the "c" scale but it is still hard by about 85-90% over the soft state.

It needs the rigidity from hardness to ring. Put a circular saw blade on a horizontal screw driver and tap the blade with another driver,

listen how long it rings without any dampening. Turn on a table saw listen past the tooth whirr, the blade is ringing constantly.


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## rstanek (Nov 9, 2012)

I used a 28 oz framing hammer with a corrugated head ,specifically for driving 16 penny nails, set and drive.


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

rstanek said:


> I used a 28 oz framing hammer with a corrugated head ,specifically for driving 16 penny nails, set and drive.


Lots of energy swinging that all day.

Usually that type of surface is face hardened above the core hardness to keep it from deforming.

Can't answer the ring relationship of your selections.


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Estwing!


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## Go2ndAmend (Apr 5, 2013)

I have used all of the above-mentioned axes/hatchets over many decades. I compare the Eastwing to a Glock pistol. Not really pretty, not super comfortable, but they always work. If you are looking for the custom .45 autos of that world, take a look at the Gransfors Bruks products. Be prepared to drool and take out a 2nd mortagage to buy one though.


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## rstanek (Nov 9, 2012)

I have about as many estwing hammers that I have purchased over the years as I do handgun holsters, the reason for replacement is either the handle grip would eventually come loose and or the corrugated head would wear smooth, more bent nails......


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## Urinal Cake (Oct 19, 2013)

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## Brettny (Apr 26, 2017)

I also have a estwing and it still looks new just like alot of peoples on here....want to know why? Because it SUCKS. All the weight is in the handle and the thing has next to no wedge shape.

Buy a Fiskars. I have many of there products and have used there warrenty. Axe handles all break but i can tell you that these "plastic" ones can take more of a beating at -5* than any wood handle.

I have even used a smaller fiskars for years with a large crack in the head. Try that with a wood handle.


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## Chiefster23 (Feb 5, 2016)

I finally got a Stihl as part of a package deal when buying a trimmer. I’ve only used it once. It seems OK. The quality seems decent but it is definately not a high-end axe. But I think it will serve me well for the jobs I have in mind. Thanks to all for your input and advice.


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