# Help me improve my rainwater catchment system



## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Before I start gluing everything together. Here is a quick picture/description.

First is the black barrel. That is for the first flush. I elevated it because its the first barrel I'll get water from to flush the toilet. That barrel will NOT be tied into the rest of the system.

The diverter will be toward the top. Turn right, then down the smaller shed into the blue barrels. Those will also be elevated, just didn't want to build anything permanent yet. The far right blue barrel will be the first barrel. I'm not sure I want this barrel to be the sand filter or not. I might just have it and the second one fill up with water, then have the third one (far left) as the slow sand filter before it goes into the 330 gallon.

Then from the 330 gallon, it will be piped to the second 330 gallon between the two sheds. That 330 is mainly dedicated for irrigation. This whole setup is mainly for irrigation. But I will have it piped so that there are spigots in convenient places.

The white barrels you see are going to be the overflow for when the 330's get full. IF lol.

Before I cut/glue anything together, any suggestions, comments, advice?

I do plan on having one way valves between barrels and totes. I hope to find a decent solar pump (anyone have sources?) but for now am going to rely on gravity since everything is downhill as far as plants go.

I need sources for:

First flush type system. 
Solar pump with panels
Anything else suggested that could help me out.

Thanks in advance guys and gals


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## sparkyprep (Jul 5, 2013)

I can't help you with this, but I would love it if you would keep posting progress and designs. I would love to build one, but I didn't even know where to start.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

sparkyprep said:


> I can't help you with this, but I would love it if you would keep posting progress and designs. I would love to build one, but I didn't even know where to start.


 This is my first attempt at a "REAL" system. My first attempt at catching rainwater was just a downspout pointed in an open barrel. Lots of over flowing and scooping out with buckets. Lots of work.

So after reading a LOT of posts, doing extensive searches and countless nights on google, I decided to start. Only problem is, the people that show what they did, didn't show where they got the materials and what materials they got. So I'm still looking for sources.

I started on my property. There had been a couple barrels already here. I picked up a couple more to transport water.

Then a place the next town over had 55 gallon drums for $25 each. I kept putting it off and putting it off (buying way more) until I was driving around in the next next town. There was a feed store selling drums for $15. Glad I waited  so 6x$15 = $90 where as 6x$25=$150. Saved some cashola there.

Searching on craigslist, found a guy selling 275 and 330 totes. I had him deliver 2 totes for $340. I know it was a bit much, but he was the ONLY guy within 100 miles that had them.

So I have $430 in storage containers. It wiped out my money, but I need water. I'll have to wait a couple more weeks to get the pipes to connect it all, so I'm doing more research and reading and asking for advice so that I do it the most efficient way possible.

Just evaluate your space and needs. I was going to get 2 275 totes, but had space for the bigger ones. I also need more water because I have a 1/3 acre, 90% of it being edible plants and fruit trees.

I actually plan on getting 2 more totes when he gets them in, and getting more drums as they are available. Just right now, he has all chemical ones.

The totes are IBC totes. They held soda syrup. The drums you HAVE to be careful with. No labels, NO SALE. PERIOD!! I know there are a few drums the guy had, that probably had food stuffs in them. But NO LABEL, NO sale. The black drum has a chemical smell to it. It wasn't as strong as the other black barrels. Why did I get it then? First flush. Black=death water. This is mostly for flushing the toilets. Not drinking, and will be isolated from the rest of the barrels.

Oh, don't forget yard sales. I found barrels at a yardsale, for $12. One was for smoke flavoring. Passed them up, because of artificial flavoring. Oh. Forgot to mention. Although I have no intention to drinking this water, I still want it to be clean. I grow everything organically to the best of my abilities. No chemical fertilizers, no pesticides, nothing. But if you don't mind chemicals, then barrels are PLENTIFUL.

I also have numerous 33 gallon trash cans I was going to use to catch rainwater if need be. They are full of gardening stuff right now, but could have been emptied in an emergency.

I have found that it doesn't matter WHAT you start off collecting water in. Just as long as you are collecting water in a clean safe barrel and in a safe way


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Ok. After dicking around a little, I got to thinking. The only reason I wanted to elevate the barrels, was to match the height of the 330's.

So what if I stacked the 55's? Like so?








I'll obviously get another barrel to put on the upper left. I can make a platform to rest the top one on, that sits on the top of the bottom one, and has legs that reach the ground for weight support. I can also attach the 55's to the metal frame of the tote to prevent tip over.

Just a thought ???


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## Inor (Mar 22, 2013)

What a neat project! Although I cannot help you at all, I would love to see photos and a description of your progress. Living in Minnesota, for now, collecting rain water has not really been much of a consideration since we have lakes, rivers, and an easily accessible water table in abundance. But hopefully we will be escaping the socialist utopia of Minnesota for the desert southwest. So then rainwater collection will be a must. Thus, I greatly look forward to hearing about your trials and tribulations.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Another idea. I laid the one on its side on top of the others. Maybe 2 barrels taking the weight of the one is better.

Also mocked up the downspouts just for ideas.









I'm wondering if the weight of the one barrel above the others is enough weight to push water through the 330 and fill it all the way. The barrel on top, if set up this way, could be set up as a first filter? It wouldn't be a SLOW sand filter as recommended, but it would help catch a lot of sediment from going into the system. I MAY get a whole house filter to go between the blue barrels and the first tote??


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## Piratesailor (Nov 9, 2012)

I'm not much help here but it sounds good from a practical stand point. I'd avoid stacking barrels from a weight and fatigue standpoint. If they were metal, then I think it would be ok. 

sounds like a great set up.


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## sparkyprep (Jul 5, 2013)

So great to see a thread on here with useful prepping info, instead of political rants. Sorry, it just seemed that was all I saw for a while. Anyway..................

I have 10 acres, so space is not an issue. I work at a lot of drinking water plants, so I may see if I can get their old barrels for free, but that might not work due to the type of chemicals that they keep in them. I'm also pretty good with PVC pipe/ fabrication, so maybe I will get my project started soon.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Don't know if this will help but here's my rain catch & storage system.

I've a separate water purification system. Water straight from the tanks is for palnts & toilet flushing. 374sqft roof feeding the tanks.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Does help. Thanks. 

Been tossing around ideas on how to stack the barrels higher than the large tank. Otherwise it'll be a LOT of PVC pipe. Trying to keep it simple and cheap and maintenance free. 

What are you using for a filter?


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Ok hunting hawk. I'm going to borrow your idea. Stack the barrels where the 330 and blue barrels are. Then put the 2 330's next to each other between the 2 sheds. The blue barrels stacked like that should provide enough water weight/pressure to fill the 330's. 

Free up some room right there. And maybe have 4 sand filters instead of one, increasing flow. Wow. Thanks for posting that 

Now to search for more barrels haha


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

I'm just using the metal lint screen from an old clothes dryer to keep leaves out.

To filter potable water have buckets & ceramic filter.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Ceramic filter in middle of the upper bucket & purified water goes into lower container. Also have a colander that I can use as a prefilter.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Some research to come up with my barrel design. Water will always find its level between the barrels. The lower barrels have ball valves between them. If there is a problem with a barrel I can isolate that barrel & therefore not loose all my water when doing a repair or replacement.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Designed the rack for the barrels that the lower barrels would be high enough I could get a 5gal bucket under the ball valve.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)




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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

The way I see your design working over here is that the downspout is higher up, and the overflow can go over the small shed. No PVC to trip over. 

Man. I'm not gonna be able to sleep tonight. Too many design possibilities.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Make sure to have an overflow that is higher then the barrels but lower then the line feeding the barrels. It will also prevent any air trapping in your system. Actually, have a 100gal livestock water trough I can use to catch overflow. But being it sits on the ground water pump or bucket to get the water out.

My system provided all the water I needed for several tomoato plants & over 100 tobacco plants.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

The overflow downspout is not glued so I can move its location. Swing it fore & aft that is.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

BTW, pipe is 1/2" thick wall.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Just went out and trimmed the bottle brush tree. Did some measuring and I can only go 3 wide, unless i don't want access to the 330. I have just a bit of walking room back there. 

If my measuring is right, then I'll be a foot above the level of the shed roof. Was hoping to just have a PVC line visible to the neighbors. Man. Can't wait until morning to be able to rearrange and plan more. 

One restless night


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Oh. How did you attach the 1/2" pipe to the barrels through the existing holes? 

Is there a fitting that threads into it but with the ability to attach a 1/2" pipe?


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

1/2" keyhole saw tip then threaded & glued fitting into it.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

You can use the largest drill bit you have then a round file to get the size hole you need. You will find the plug is threaded after you remove the center of the plug.


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## PaulS (Mar 11, 2013)

A sand filter - if I understand what you want to use - will restrict the water flow severely (back it up) and it won't filter out some severe contaminates. You need to incorporate a multistage filter system or use a "cultured" system that uses biotics to remove the contaminates. (if you plan on drinking the water)


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

I do want it drinkable if needed. But I need to remove as much (99% or better) sediment, debris, gunk as possible because this will be the water source for my trees. I have a drip system, and don't want the emitters to clog every time I go to water. 

Drinkable would be nice. Maybe I can set up a second set of barrels just for drinkable?


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

With what you are trying to set up you will not be able to purify the water between the rain gutter & the containers. The water will back up really quick. I simply use a fine mesh screen at the top of the downspout to keep leaves & such out of the barrels. As a reference, it takes about 15 minutes for my ceramic filter to process 5 gal of water. That is why I have the separate water filter system for getting potable water. Using that water for irrigation it seems to me the plants don't care if the water is filtered. Water I am catching is off a tin roof & only debris is some oak leaves & the mesh screen keeps them out of my barrels. For my drinking water, I want it freshly purified.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

You have to catch & store the water first. Then purify.

From your initial storage tanks you can use a 12VDC Shurflo water pump powered by a 12V deep cycle battery & solar charged. Two 55gal drums mounted horizontal. Pump water to the upper drum. Then water filter system between upper & lower drums.

I have my own well & pump. Commercial electric goes out I have a backup generator. Generator goes out from failure or lack of gasoline & my rain catch & storage system is my next backup. But plants sure do like that rain water so use it exclusely for the plants versus the well water. So get payback on the rain catch & storage system simply by not having to run the well pump to water plants. I figured it had cost me less then $400 to make the rain catch & storage system.


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## paraquack (Mar 1, 2013)

For what it's worth. every foot of elevation above the discharge point gives you about 1/2 PSI (A 30 foot water tower =15PSI). Any water collected from roofs, etc. may be contaminated by bird droppings and needs to be purified to be potable.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Thanks for the tips guys. 

I don't care if the water in the blue barrels isn't purified. I do however care that the water going into the white barrels be clean to avoid bacteria growth as much as possible. Gonna get up on the roof and sweep it off and clean the gutters to avoid a LOT of debris going in. I have no trees immediately over the gutters but do have one over a part of the roof that doesn't wash into a gutter. 

So it seems I should have a separate barrel for a slow filter?


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Ceramic filters would be less hasstle I think & can be scrubbed & reused. They have activated charcoal inide them. Where you see I had one on the center of the 5gal bucket, you can actually add several speeding up the filtering process. Not sure how you would want to rig them up between the blue drums & the water totes though.
You are going to have to be able to get to the filters to clean or replace them.


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## sparkyprep (Jul 5, 2013)

Bump.


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## sparkyprep (Jul 5, 2013)

Ok, so I've been looking at Berkey filters. Which one is better, the black, or the ceramic? And why?


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Basic difference is the black removes lead. If lead isn't an issue such as rain a rain catch system, get the ceramic. Go to Amazon & search for doulton ceramic filters. Doulton & Berkey are the same company.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

So what is the latest design???


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## Prepadoodle (May 28, 2013)

You might want to look for a used pool filter that uses diatomaceous earth for use as a prefilter. This won't make it clean enough to drink, but is cheap and would be enough for your drip emitters and has a decent flow rate. As an added bonus, all of the fittings you would need would be already in place and/or easy to modify to your exact needs.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

HuntingHawk said:


> So what is the latest design???


I saw another setup with a small filter on top. Thinking of adding a gutter and downspout here and having it run into a tub with a filter before it fills the totes.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Then havin the overflow run overhead here


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

To my stack of barrels here.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

And still having a stack of barrels here. These would be 2 high by 3 wide. I'd be able to have 2 high by 4 wide next to the other shed


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

With the totes stacked, it puts it higher then the toilets and faucets. If nothing else it'll provide water to the toilets. 

Then with the barrels stacked against the shed, that's 440 gallons for the garden/trees versus 330. Plus that'll give me water for inside, and water for outside. The totes will be the first filled. If by chance I can get a couple more totes, then the stacked barrels will be replaced by totes. 

My only only concern is, stacked, you can see the totes from the street behind me. If you look, you can see them. I'm just going to trim the bougenvalia to hide the tanks. My fear is someone taking them out in a SHTF situation. I have a spot I can put them more concealed, but its farther from the drip irrigation. Which is the MAIN reason for collecting rainwater.

Also forgot to mention. With the totes stacked, I can t off and run water to the elevated deck where I also have stuff growing on drip irrigation.


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## Prepadoodle (May 28, 2013)

It looks like some sort of vine would climb your totes and hide them.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

I do have a passion fruit vine I need to plant 

Heard those are invasive growers. Should cover them quickly


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Trying to filter the water coming off the roof you are going to have problems as filtering slows down the water so much. Screening it from debris works though. You have to have containers to catch the rain in. Then filter that water into clean holding containers. Absolutely no reason I know of to filter water used for gardening or toilet. So you need more space for the collected rain water then you do for filtered water.
You will want two output from collected rain water. One to filters & storage containers for potable water. Separate output for water for irrigation & toilet.


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## Prepadoodle (May 28, 2013)

HuntingHawk said:


> Absolutely no reason I know of to filter water used for gardening or toilet.


I think he said his irrigation system uses drip emitters, which would clog unless the water is filtered.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Prepadoodle said:


> I think he said his irrigation system uses drip emitters, which would clog unless the water is filtered.


Yeah the drip emitters are finicky.

I think I am just going to do it how it's set up now. Just a screen filter over the gutter I put up, then a finer filter above the tanks. Not trying for pure drinking quality, just removal of big debris and sediment. Which is why I figured I'd have the overflow into the set of 8 for the irrigation. Sediment shouldn't be able to float above the overflow. It should theoretically(?) settle to the bottom tank. Then once in a while, open the valve to flush out, just like a water heater.


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## wheeler880 (Sep 16, 2013)

Use an irrigation filter inline with the feed for the drip emitters. Available in various micron levels and easy to clean.


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

So you want the water for the drip emitters filtered but don't need purified. Large inline fuel filter might do it. They can be back flushed to clean & reused.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Ok. Went to Home Depot and got a few things. Picked up 3" sewer line/water line. It's perforated for water. Picked up the sleeve that goes over it. Put the sleeve inside and outside of the pipe. It's a type of mesh, and should take care of sediment. Got an adapter to go from the square gutter to the round pipe. Put screen in it to catch the bigger stuff.

Had to unstack the totes. The angle for the downspout was un achievable. Not with current production pieces. I could use flex ducting, but unsure if the ridges would catch or grow mold or mildew.

Here is where I wanted to put them. Added the gutter, but while up there, had a clear view of the neighbors behind me. That means they could see the totes too


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

So the square footage of that piece of roof is only 150' square. So no go there for the large totes. I decided to unstack the totes, put them side by side and connect them. One is the input, and the other has the vent. Should work well.








Here's the piece I used to go from the square to round for the tank fill.









Here's the piece to go from 2" to 3/4". I go it because its tapered. The first set I got wasn't tapered, and looked like it would cause flow problems. 








And finally my hose connected to my drip system. It's hooked up permanently here now. I've got to reroute the other end of the hose where it hooks to the drip system. 








So I'm semi officially watering by rain water. Only thing missing is rain


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Ok. Couple things I haven't done.

First flush. Can't find one ill be happy with. I see the ones with the slow drip on the bottom. Not sure I want that, INCASE it clogs with junk. For now, I'm hoping the screen in the fill spout and the mesh in the tube, will suffice. 

Overflow. The totes stick up higher than the blue barrels. Push come to shove, a hose hooked to the spigot, and the other in a barrel will work. 

Haven't built the barrel stand yet. Have 2 more barrels to get. But it'll be a few days. 

Have gutters to put up around another part of the house though. I have the stuff. Just need to do it. Although, it's supposed to rain tomorrow. No rush 

Ever expanding. Ever growing.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

HuntingHawk said:


> So you want the water for the drip emitters filtered but don't need purified. Large inline fuel filter might do it. They can be back flushed to clean & reused.


I picked up a screen filter for the drip irrigation system I have. It's a screen, and can be removed and cleaned. It was only $6 lol

But yeah. Gonna get an outside filter source. Like a ceramic filter. I am just trying to get the water going IN as clean as possible. Incase I had to drink it 

I'm not entirely happy with my setup. Not until I get more gutter up, and more barrels, and more more more hahaha


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## MikeyPrepper (Nov 29, 2012)

Nice stuff


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Bo Duke said:


> If there is Nuclear fall out - I don't think you would want to be messing around with rain-water..
> 
> You ought to invest in some type of pump or a well or locate your camp close to a pure water source.
> 
> I see this stuff on tv all the time and I wonder where these peoples brains are?


I'm so close to a nuclear plant (~50 miles) if there's a meltdown I'm screwed anyways. Even if I have radiation free water, my plants will be radiated also. And if I'm outside when it happens, I'm dead too.

I am wanting to install a 1500 gallon cistern. In the future though 

Of course the cistern will be underground


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## sparkyprep (Jul 5, 2013)

Haven't seen an update on this in a while. Just figured IDE give it a bump.


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## Will2 (Mar 20, 2013)

Here are some tips.. TARP... posts... hang tarp from posts.. have hole in tarp here is a diagram








note that your leaves may be edible... know your trees.. leaf contamination does matter when it comes to water collection.. some leaves are tasty after soaking, others will taint your water and make it lethal.

it will need to be wind sheilded.. also for people with shingle DO NOT I repeat DO NOT use roof runoff for drinking water.

note acrylics plastics will effect chemical composition for long term use and increase cancer risk and estrogen levels... consider using santized animal hide... or mud. if possible mud is healthy believe it or not if sanitized first. eg. clay. has natural b12 in it.

in many cases if you don't have a meat source in SHTF include dirt in your diet.. food for thought. just make sure it is not from a contaminated lawn ex. nasty pesticides.

learn the chemical history of your area.. learn your soil makeup including minerals nutrients, bacterial and "critters" in your soil.

check any dirt you plan on eating for rocks, considering filtering. but keep the bacteria and minerals, they are free health savers.. especially if you don't have multivitamins in your bob, and they could help fill your hungry tummy.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/art...ng-dirt-good-stomach--act-shield-stomach.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geophagy

note an old tent tied up the right way upside down can do a good job because its to is often screen you just need to open it up you could optionally cut the bottom off to use as a tarp for a leanto tarp while using the top to funnel your water into a catchment.

None the less ruining a perfectly good tent probably is not required but if you happen to really need water and have only one catchment and limited rain.. well.. you could even put the barrel in the tent if you can get it to fit right.. it all depends on your tent.


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## kevincali (Nov 15, 2012)

Glad someone bumped this thread. I've been searching for it, but I updated tapatalk and everything is harder to navigate. 

So its been a few months. It's rained a few times and the collection system works great. Pressure is awesome. It uses a tad bit more water than I anticipated. I removed the pressure valve on the drip system so I could use the last bit of water in the totes, and in turn it flows freely. But if I keep a watch on it, it's fine. Just gotta time it. 

I am officially off grid, irrigation water wise. 

Oh, the barrels fill slower than the totes because they are on a smaller portion of roof. Pressure is great from them also. I have used the barrels to water the yard (switching the hose from totes to barrels). 

No complaints, except it NEEDA TO RAIN haha


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## pheniox17 (Dec 12, 2013)

rainwater tank - Google Search


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## HuntingHawk (Dec 16, 2012)

Primary is 5gal buckets. Colander with pillow case filter & doulton filters. Backup is a doulton 2.5gal ceramic filter system. No reason to filter all the water since some would be used for toilet & such.


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## RNprepper (Apr 5, 2014)

We have a large catchment system for nearly all the roof areas of our house and barn. We use large dark green tanks of 1500 - 2500 gallons, with 10,000 gallons of total storage capacity. I am building a new hay barn and will put a 3,000 tank on that one. So here is the real issue - what is your annual rainfall? If you live in an arid place like I do (last year we only got 6 inches of rain at our place!!!!), a large catchment is needed, as we only get rain during two times of the year, and that is the only opportunity to fill the tanks. A rainier climate needs less containment, as the tanks will fill more often. (When I lived in Papua New Guinea, our entire household water use was supplied by a single 1,000 rain tank. But then, we got over 200 inches of rain/year, so the tank was continually filled.) Our large tanks here can fill completely with 1 inch of gently rain, and 2 inches if it is heavy and there there is a lot of splashing. It does not take a lot of rain to fill tanks if you gutter a large surface area. My tanks can potentially supply all our water needs for a year, given that they do fill twice a year (I also have livestock.)

I think it is well worth the $ to just invest in some large tanks and don't mess around with small barrels. The small ones will fill so quickly and you will wish you have something bigger.

Now the cool thing is that you can put a tank anywhere you want - it doesn't have to be under the gutter. As long as the intake at the tank is 1 inch lower that the gutter, you can run pipe down the side of the house, underground, up the side of the tank, and into the intake. Your tanks can be where ever you want them to be - to provide shade, windbreak, or to keep them in the shade, for example.

With large tanks, it is good to have a valve at the bottom of the intake pipe, so the pipe can be drained from time to time - eliminate mosquito habitat. It's good it you can screen the opening into the tank to keep out leaves, twigs, and debri.

Now this will sound disgusting, but if your tank fills frequently with frequent rainfall (unlike mine which fill only twice a year) you can actually drink the water right from the tanks. Yes, you should be sure your gutters are cleaned from time to time. Yes, birds fly over, and you will get some bacterial load, but not like drinking out of a stagnant pond. You may have intermittant loose stools from time to time, but a healthy immune system can adjust. I am a very strong advocate for safe water, but my family lived from unfiltered water tanks for many years with no ill effects. As I said, relatively speaking, it is a "clean" water source, compared to many others. You can certainly cook and bathe with it without filtering. 

In my own situation, when the SHTF, I will use a biosand filter for drinking. I will then use sun power to sterilize it, or boil as a last resort if the sun isn't shining (rare event in my neck of the woods.)

Water is the most critical need to survival. 50 gallon barrels will keep a family for a couple of weeks, so anything is certainly better than nothing, which is what most people have - nothing. I really do like the fact that your system appears to be hidden behind a fence. My tanks are highly vulnerable targets, as they are visible to anyone coming onto our property. A few bullets would take out our water supply.


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

I agree with RN. Get the larger tanks. At least 500 gallon tanks per downspout and depending on your layout you can link together. First Flush downspout is a must. We have a metal roof so no asphalt particles from the shingles and we cut down most trees within distance to reduce leaves and stuff accumulating on the roof. I hope to add another Norwesco tank later this year to my system. 

Berkey Filter first and foremost. Then some bleach plus the ability to boil and you are good to go. We are using one of our tanks to water a couple of raised beds. Good luck all.


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