# Gun cleaning advice



## Chiefster23 (Feb 5, 2016)

I’ve been using Hoppes #9 for years. It does a pretty good job removing powder residue but a lousy job removing copper fouling. I’m tired of swabbing my gun barrels two or three times a day for a week to remove the copper. So who has recommendations for a good product to remove both powder and copper?


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

Shooters Choice works good.

Don't let the copper get built up. A wet patch after removing the powder overnight then a bronze brush and a few wet then dry patches.

P.S. rinse your bronze brush off, it will eat that too.


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Chiefster23 said:


> I've been using Hoppes #9 for years. It does a pretty good job removing powder residue but a lousy job removing copper fouling. I'm tired of swabbing my gun barrels two or three times a day for a week to remove the copper. So who has recommendations for a good product to remove both powder and copper?


I've never used anything specifically designed to remove copper residue (I've always used Hoppes, CLP, Frog Lube Products etc) so I texted one of my buddies, a competition shooter, and he mentioned a product called JB Compound & Kroil Oil that he used for copper and other crud that may build up. This guy shoots A LOT!

Anyway, found it at Brownells below;

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...g-paste/j-b-bore-compound-kroil-prod1159.aspx


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

Been using Kroil for years instead of stuff like WD-40 for rusted bolts. Guess I never bothered to read the can, does say for cleaning guns and rifle barrels, creeps into openings as small as one millionth of an inch. According to the label on the can.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

1skrewsloose said:


> Been using Kroil for years instead of stuff like WD-40 for rusted bolts. Guess I never bothered to read the can, does say for cleaning guns and rifle barrels, creeps into openings as small as one millionth of an inch. According to the label on the can.


You can make your own penetrating oil, 1:1 acetone and ATF


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

@madtrapper, thanks, Kroil is spendy, I have it cause it was paid for by a prior employer.


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Mad Trapper said:


> You can make your own penetrating oil, 1:1 acetone and ATF


(Slippy is one sneaky bastich, one day he "slipped" on up and did a little Sneaking around and Rec-Onoitering on Mad Trapper's Laboratory. Trapper had Bunsen Burners and Beakers bubbling up concoctions left and right..

I ain't gonna lie to you, he may or may not have had some liberals on the medieval torture rack in the room he had labeled "Human Chemical Studies And the US Libtard Experiment 101"...:vs_whistle: )


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

1skrewsloose said:


> @madtrapper, thanks, Kroil is spendy, I have it cause it was paid for by a prior employer.


They did testing on bolts/nuts put in salt water, that mix worked as well as any commercial stuff. They checked the bolts with a torque wrench.


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## Back Pack Hack (Sep 15, 2016)

Slippy said:


> .......Trapper had Bunsen Burners and Beakers bubbling up concoctions left and right............


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## Elvis (Jun 22, 2018)

NRA magazine had a article 2 issues back about how to remove copper but I can't find the article online. The "expert" listed several of his favorite copper removers and would swab the barrel with the copper remover and let it sit for a while before running a nylon brush and then a patch. It often would take 5-10 applications to get all of the copper out of a heavily plated barrel.

I used to never run a bronze brush but have since learned that after cleaning a barrel with just patches if I ran a brush through it was amazing how much more crap came out when I ran a wet patch through again.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

Elvis said:


> NRA magazine had a article 2 issues back about how to remove copper but I can't find the article online. The "expert" listed several of his favorite copper removers and would swab the barrel with the copper remover and let it sit for a while before running a nylon brush and then a patch. It often would take 5-10 applications to get all of the copper out of a heavily plated barrel.
> 
> I used to never run a bronze brush but have since learned that after cleaning a barrel with just patches if I ran a brush through it was amazing how much more crap came out when I ran a wet patch through again.


Some "shot out" barrels are just too fouled with copper.


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## Back Pack Hack (Sep 15, 2016)

"Clean guns"? Why? Just sell 'em and buy new ones. :tango_face_wink:


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## wallyLOZ (May 12, 2013)

I've used Butch's Bore Shine for years. As @MadTrapper said, clean the bore and brushes afterwards. I use brake cleaner on the barrel followed with Rem Oil for short term storage or Ballistol for "normal" use and Synco Super Lube for longer protection. Not the cheapest, but works for me. YMMV.

P.S. The manufacturer of Butch's recommends outdoor use only due to the fumes. Brake cleaner should always be used outside. IMHO


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## RedLion (Sep 23, 2015)

Opinions on using a copper remover vary. I use it. I like "Shooter's Choice" and "Bore Tech Inc Cu+2 Copper Remover." A good number of folks including myself use it when breaking in a barrel. The thought by many is that you accumulate a lot of copper when breaking in a barrel and removing it during the process quickens break-in while trying to ensure the best accuracy from that particular barrel/rifle. I use it every other time I shoot a rifle at the range. If you ever have a rifle that starts to lose accuracy, accumulation of copper could be the culprit and removing it could restore accuracy.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

Lot of products that work not sold on brand. I am not an over cleaner Colt claimed more damage done by over cleaning than shooting. Slip 2000 Carbon killer also cleans lead and plastic from the bore Birchwoo Bore Scrubber 2 in 1 Copper & nitro cleaner seems to work. Follow by CLP.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

Smitty901 said:


> Lot of products that work not sold on brand. I am not an over cleaner Colt claimed more damage done by over cleaning than shooting. Slip 2000 Carbon killer also cleans lead and plastic from the bore Birchwoo Bore Scrubber 2 in 1 Copper & nitro cleaner seems to work. Follow by CLP.


You need quality cleaning equipment to avoid damage. A 12ga shell with primer removed works great for a bore guide on M14/M1A, good to keep rifling at muzzle sharp. Steel cleaning rods are harder, but they won't embed crap like aluminum does. If my guns are going to sit any time or it's humid they get cleaned same day.

My BP MLs get cleaned if only 1 shot.

Concerning copper, I rescued a pre-64 M70 that took two weeks of cleaning, it shoots MOA now. Favorite deer rifle with a Denver Redfield on top or Lyman peep.


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

i use Remington 40-X Bore Cleaner, mainly because it's available out here in small town America.
Removes lead, copper, carbon.

I also use Hoppes #9 on my milsurp rifles, it's equal to the old USGI bore cleaner, and a definite must if firing corrosive surplus ammo.

Such as the 1954 Bulgarian 7.62X54R I have a thousand rounds of.:tango_face_grin:


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## rice paddy daddy (Jul 17, 2012)

wallyLOZ said:


> I've used Butch's Bore Shine for years. As @MadTrapper said, clean the bore and brushes afterwards. I use brake cleaner on the barrel followed with Rem Oil for short term storage or Ballistol for "normal" use and Synco Super Lube for longer protection. Not the cheapest, but works for me. YMMV.
> 
> P.S. The manufacturer of Butch's recommends outdoor use only due to the fumes. Brake cleaner should always be used outside. IMHO


Brake cleaner will remove oil that is in the microscopic pores of the steel.
Better to use carb & choke cleaner.


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

rice paddy daddy said:


> i use Remington 40-X Bore Cleaner, mainly because it's available out here in small town America.
> Removes lead, copper, carbon.
> 
> I also use Hoppes #9 on my milsurp rifles, it's equal to the old USGI bore cleaner, and a definite must if firing corrosive surplus ammo.
> ...


 Best thing for cleaning corrosive power is soap and water first. Dry then clean


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## Dukers (Jan 28, 2017)

Back in the day when I shot 600yd and the occasional 1000yd on the rifle team, we used a product called Sweets to remove copper I've seen it in my local range recently so they must still make it. It smelled to high heaven, but worked wonders on copper. Just make sure to follow the instructions.


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## Chiefster23 (Feb 5, 2016)

Thanks to all for your input. So many choices! My local supplier for reloading And factory ammo stocks Montana Extreme. So I guess I will give their products a try. Again, thanks to all!


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## Smitty901 (Nov 16, 2012)

It was time to clean what is becoming my favorite .22LR. The Ruger RP rimfire. Put about 500-700 rounds down range sense last real cleaning. I had expected some build up I was shooting some coated rounds. But it did not seem to be an issue. Over all it cleaned up fast than expected. I use some Slip 2000 carbon killer bore cleaner. It removes plastics from coat rounds. Followed by some lead remover. Patched dry then CLP. Now I have a urge to get it dirty again.


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## Samuel477 (Mar 15, 2018)

Clean and lubricate every time before long term storage (to me that's stored for 1 month or more without usage). I do like the one marked by Remington but you can choose whatever you like here. Btw, there I remember a great video by Lowlight demonstrating his process on the site somewhere. If I find it I will share it here. His process is simple, easy and effective.


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## 0rocky (Jan 7, 2018)

1skrewsloose said:


> Been using Kroil for years instead of stuff like WD-40 for rusted bolts. Guess I never bothered to read the can, does say for cleaning guns and rifle barrels, creeps into openings as small as one millionth of an inch. According to the label on the can.


Same here. Discovered the stuff (kroil) about 20 years ago. Ill admit to doing something stupid- I put some on my lug nut studs, I used to get all my tires from the scrap heap at my local Sunoco station. What people discarded I could get a few thousand miles out of, so as you come image I'm changing my tires often. Free tires and free labor (mine). So why not make it easier to loosen the rusty lugs. Darned wheels came off while driving! But like @1shrewloose I hadn't given the product any thought as far as bore cleaning.


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

For copper I use Ferric chloride on a patch then clean with clean water.

Have to be carefull with it in a bore.

For lead I use sodium hydroxide solution at 200 F.


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## bigwheel (Sep 22, 2014)

1skrewsloose said:


> Been using Kroil for years instead of stuff like WD-40 for rusted bolts. Guess I never bothered to read the can, does say for cleaning guns and rifle barrels, creeps into openings as small as one millionth of an inch. According to the label on the can.


Wow..that stuff sounds slicker than semen on a gold tooth..as they say in the panhandlle sometimes about slick things. Now we had an old dispathcer at Corpuse who said he made some kinda special oill out of rattle snake fat. He said it was so slick if a person put it on a gun all the screws would fall out of it. Never did figure out if he hew was just teasing or not. He sounded serious and knew how to make everything else. He make hand tied fishing nets which are high dollar on te coast. Taught me how to make jerky. What a guy wished I had he oil reipe. .


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## bigwheel (Sep 22, 2014)

Mad Trapper said:


> You can make your own penetrating oil, 1:1 acetone and ATF


Good tip. Thanks. How about fingernail poish remover. Thats acetone I think. That should go in a permanant prepper file. Bet there a lot of good old do it yourself tips out in the world. I will be trying to think of any I might know. I was in the boyscouts a long time. lol.


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

bigwheel said:


> Good tip. Thanks. How about fingernail poish remover. Thats acetone I think. That should go in a permanant prepper file. Bet there a lot of good old do it yourself tips out in the world. I will be trying to think of any I might know. I was in the boyscouts a long time. lol.


Not all fingernail polish remover is acetone based.

You can buy a quart can of acetone at your local paint/ hardware store.

I buy it in gallon cans.


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