# Finding and Storing Firewood



## JimCobb (Sep 21, 2016)

[Full disclosure - this is an article I ran on my website some time ago. Thought I'd toss it here in case someone might find it useful.]

The best time to accumulate supplies is before you need them and firewood is no exception. With all of the storms that we typically experience this time of year, spring is a great season for collecting firewood.

There is something about a roaring fire, isn't there? Given the choice, I'd much rather watch a campfire or fireplace than what passes for television these days. A controlled fire will keep you warm, cook your food, dry you out, and is just overall comforting. Coming in from the winter cold to a crackling fire&#8230;well, like the old beer commercial used to say, "It just doesn't get any better than that."

It can take a fair amount of work to be able to rely strictly upon wood fire for heat and cooking. First obviously is acquiring the firewood. Then you may have to cut it to size, split it, and stack it to dry. It can take up to a full year before freshly cut firewood is properly seasoned and ready to use, so you need to plan far ahead. Depending on the size of the building you are heating, you could easily go through several full cords of firewood in an average winter. A cord of wood is 128 cubic feet, usually arranged in a stack four feet deep, four feet high, and eight feet long. A face cord is usually a stack four feet high by eight feet long.

When stacking firewood, one should allow for some degree of air flow above, below, and around the cord. Doing so allows the wood to fully dry, which results in a cleaner burn. Prior to stacking, it should be cut and split to accommodate the size of the fireplace or wood stove. Splitting the logs also provides for better drying. Do not keep these large stacks up next to your house. They tend to become havens for all sorts of bugs, especially carpenter ants and termites. Keep them well away from your home and only bring in as much wood as you'll need for a couple days at a time.

The ideal for storing firewood is often a three sided wood shed. But if that's not an option for you, stack the wood as best you can. While there are many different types of log racks commercially available, we've found using a few metal fence posts pounded into the ground on each end of the stack works just fine. However you stack it, at the minimum loosely cover your firewood with a tarp to keep rain and snow out. Remember, you want some air flow so don't wrap the stack like you're wrapping Tyvek around a home. What we've done with a degree of success is to stack the firewood on scavenged pallets, with buckets of kindling on either end. Then we lay a tarp along the top of the stack, draping it down to cover the buckets at the ends. The fence posts keep the tarp up off the wood a bit, allowing for that important air flow. Then, take the ends of the tarp and fold them toward one another, securing them together with rope or bungee cords.

The tools required to cut and split firewood can be as simple as just a hand saw, an axe and wedge. However, I can tell you from experience the job is much easier with a log splitter and a chainsaw. Being that splitters are often fairly costly, you might consider renting one for the time being. Alternatively, if you have family or neighbors who would also benefit from a splitter, see if you can split the cost of purchasing one new or second-hand. Even if you have a splitter, you'll still need a good, sharp axe, a maul, protective eye glasses and gloves, as well as a saw and pair of loppers to take off smaller branches.

Chainsaws can be found fairly cheap second-hand, if you keep your eyes open at rummage sales and the like. Familiarize yourself with the basic operations of a chainsaw so you know what to look for when buying a used one. You don't want to end up just buying someone else's problem. If you can at all afford it, you're often better off buying a good quality chainsaw new. Invest in a sharpening kit as well as extra chains and bars. Avoid the electric saws, they usually aren't worth the price of admission. Of course, proper ear protection when using a chainsaw should go without saying. Maintained properly, a good chainsaw will last many years.

Cut and split the firewood as close as possible to where you'll be storing it. I realize this sounds like common sense but I've seen countless examples of people splitting the logs on their driveway, then hauling them out to the back of their lot. That's just making the job twice as much work, if you ask me.

Quite often, you'll have bark strip off the logs as you split them. I tend to keep a few buckets of these bark scraps as they make for great kindling. Same things goes with some of the smaller branches. You can find suitable buckets for this purpose at your local dollar store.

When you are concentrating on obtaining firewood frugally, you often don't have a choice as to the type of wood you receive. While hardwoods such as oak make for the warmest and longest lasting fire, it is rare indeed to find such great wood for free or cheap. Instead, you'll likely end up with softwoods like pine. The problem with cheap wood like that is the creosote buildup you can experience in your chimney. Creosote buildup is a very real danger and needs to be combated. You could sweep your chimney yourself, provided you have the equipment as well as the means to safely get up on your roof to do the job. You may find it a better option to pay a professional a couple hundred bucks every fall to get the job done right, with no risk to your own neck. However it gets done, it does need to be done every year.

Good quality hardwoods to be considered for firewood include oak, ash, and walnut. All give off good heat and are relatively easy to split. Suitable softwoods would be yellow pine, cypress, and douglas fir. But again, part of the deal with free or cheap wood is you kind of have to deal with what is available. Beggars can't be choosers and all that.

So, where can you find firewood on the cheap? First, pay attention to your neighborhood. If you notice someone is having trees removed or severely trimmed, ask the owners if they plan to keep the wood. If not, quite often they'll let you have it just for removing it from the property. If that's the case, be sure you leave the area in better condition than when you arrived. Avoid wheel ruts in the ground and clean up after yourself. Not only is it just the right thing to do, if the owner is having more trees taken down in the future, you'll have a leg up on anyone else who stops by asking about the wood.

Be sure to scout your area after a severe storm has come through. If a homeowner has had trees come down, they'll be more than happy for you to remove them in exchange for keeping the wood. Personally, I would avoid making this offer if the tree is sitting against their home or has taken down power lines, just for safety's sake.

If you live in an area that has a municipal or county street department, give them a call and find out what they are doing with trees they take down. While brush surely gets mulched, the larger limbs and trunks have to go somewhere. In many areas, you can buy this wood for a nominal fee, provided you can transport it yourself. Again, odds are this isn't going to be premium grade hardwood but you can't beat the price.

Watch for construction sites in your area. Once you see the framing start to go up, get in touch with the site foreman. Ask if you might be able to get some of the cut offs. Usually, as they cut the framing to length, the scraps just go into a bin. Find out if it is possible for you to get a load or two of those scraps. It'll likely be pine 2×4 remnants for the most part. You might even be able to strike a deal with one or two of the workers whereby they'll drop a pickup truck load to your home for a 12 pack of beer. It never hurts to ask, the worst that can happen is they'll say no. Some of these scraps may have to be cut to the proper length to fit into your wood stove but that's just the work of an hour or two with a chop saw.

If you have local businesses where they make custom cabinetry and that sort of thing, hit them up as well. The scraps might be smaller in size but they'll burn just as well. Be careful though to avoid any scraps that look like they've been painted or stained. Burning those may give off harmful chemicals.

I know a few people who have regular access to junked wood pallets. I hesitate to recommend this as a means of obtaining firewood as one can never be certain what chemicals may have leached into the wood during the pallet's use.

You're far better off to start getting together firewood and sources for more now, rather than in the dead of winter.


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## Targetshooter (Dec 4, 2015)

I save all of my scrap wood , fire wood is very easy to get here , sometimes it's even free . There are some that sell a pick up truck load for $35 and they will stack it . We have all kinds of wood here to burn , pine , oak , maple , pecan , apple , hickory , peach . Some of it is for cooking but pine , oak , maple are very good to burn .


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

This looks like a cut and post, from a newbie? And a......

If I'm wrong and you have heated with wood for 50 years like me. Managed a forest for wood products, sold hardwood cordwood at $35/cord delivered years ago, have a portable lumber mill which provides cutoffs for kindling besides all the trees I drop. Have used *both* kitchen (cooked on them too, Grandma taught me) and heating stoves for many years.

Tell me more.......

Edit: I forgot the scrap/leftover cutoff PT they make the barbacue taste soo good!


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## sargedog (Nov 12, 2012)

I used to work for a tree company, and there were a lot of times we were just looking for a place to get rid of the wood. We had a list of people that wanted it, so we would cut the pieces into about 6-8 foot pieces. Our truck would haul enough to last someone a winter. They would have cut and split though. So you might get your local tree company to bring it to you free.


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## JimCobb (Sep 21, 2016)

Mad Trapper said:


> This looks like a cut and post, from a newbie? And a......


And a what? Not sure where you're going with that.

My apologies if I did something wrong with my post. I thought that as long as I didn't post a link or some goofy crap like that, it'd be fine. Just trying to share some info, that's all. Obviously we're all at different stages of prepping, experience, skills, and knowledge. Those who've been around a while likely know all of this stuff. I thought it might be beneficial to someone who hasn't heated with wood for 50+ years nor has managed a forest, etc.


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

I have cut and split 5 cord a year since 1979, 

Built a 25 ton hydraulic splitter that takes 40 inch logs.

I generally drop the trees myself, alone and do all the splitting alone.

Some years I have to cut nothing, the highway department drops plenty on my land.

Most of what they bring and I cut up is maple and oak.

I had to get a 24 inch bar for the huskie, have to go through both sides with it, about 36-40 inches in diameter, on what they bring.

Those section had to be quartered before I could pick them up and on to the splitter.

I have all the manual tools to do the job also.


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## Slippy (Nov 14, 2013)

Cutting/Splitting Firewood! 

So nice it warms you twice


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

SOCOM42 said:


> I have cut and split 5 cord a year since 1979,
> 
> Built a 25 ton hydraulic splitter that takes 50 inch logs.
> 
> ...


50" logs!!! Holy crap, I ran my fathers portable sawmill with a 42" replaceable teeth powered by a 125HP MM and thought it was a beast. A splitter that takes on logs of that size!! WOW! Those should be sawn into lumber.jmo


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## rstanek (Nov 9, 2012)

At this time I currently have a 2 year supply and I'm going to cut more this fall.


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## SOCOM42 (Nov 9, 2012)

1skrewsloose said:


> 50" logs!!! Holy crap, I ran my fathers portable sawmill with a 42" replaceable teeth powered by a 125HP MM and thought it was a beast. A splitter that takes on logs of that size!! WOW! Those should be sawn into lumber.jmo


That was a typo, it should have been 40 inch.

that is the log length it will take, diameter wise, it will take whatever can be put on it.

It was made that long because my stove takes 36 inch logs and you need a few extra inches to position.

The oak splits real easy and the pump never shifts to low.

Oh, yes, much would have made nice lumber, however a lot is from lightening strikes, wind damage and not much good for anything else.


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## 1skrewsloose (Jun 3, 2013)

SOCOM42 said:


> That was a typo, it should have been 40 inch.
> 
> that is the log length it will take, diameter wise, it will take whatever can be put on it.
> 
> ...


Partly my bad too. thought I was reading diameter, No harm, no foul. Peace.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

JimCobb said:


> And a what? Not sure where you're going with that.
> 
> My apologies if I did something wrong with my post. I thought that as long as I didn't post a link or some goofy crap like that, it'd be fine. Just trying to share some info, that's all. Obviously we're all at different stages of prepping, experience, skills, and knowledge. Those who've been around a while likely know all of this stuff. I thought it might be beneficial to someone who hasn't heated with wood for 50+ years nor has managed a forest, etc.


Sorry for my bad if so. What you posted looked to me like a canned cut and paste. We get a lot of snakeoil salesmen and BS artists.

If you are for real and genuine, welcome aboard.


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## JimCobb (Sep 21, 2016)

Mad Trapper said:


> Sorry for my bad if so. What you posted looked to me like a canned cut and paste. We get a lot of snakeoil salesmen and BS artists.
> 
> If you are for real and genuine, welcome aboard.


LOL, I thought we'd cleared that up a few days ago. I'm about as real and genuine as they come.

That said, I did note at the beginning of the original post that I'd copy/pasted it from an article that had originally appeared on my website. I specified that so as to avoid anyone accusing me of plagiarizing the content. I figured since I was the author, I could post it where I wanted without worrying about suing myself for doing so.


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## admin (Apr 28, 2016)

SOCOM42 said:


> That was a typo, it should have been 40 inch.
> 
> that is the log length it will take, diameter wise, it will take whatever can be put on it.
> 
> ...


You beat me to it. I was just going to ask if you ever use any of the wood for woodworking projects.


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## Stick (Sep 29, 2014)

This winter will be the first, I think, since 1967 I won't be using wood for heat. I have the stove still, and maybe a cord of wood, but also have some Heater Buddys, plenty (finally, for once) of propane and lots of insulation. Lots. Taking off the year of firewood cutting. In 1968 in the Sierra, around Truckee/Tahoe, a cord of pine/fir sold for $25, oak for $50, and I cut and sold a lot of it. In 1991 a cord of larch (great firewood, by the way) sold for a hundred bucks or so in the Bitterroot Valley. I'd burn 12-15 cords between Labor Day and Memorial Day, and never bought a stick of it. Today in NE NV a cord of anything is going to be $150+. I see ads for cords of juniper and "cedar" (just another juniper) for $225+. No, this year I'm gonna sit it out and reload.
Good article for those who don't yet know what they're getting into.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

Part of the property I have is about 25 acres of mostly hardwoods.

I just found out there is money available from the USDA for improving woodlots. 

You need to first write up a long term forest management plan. 

Once that is done you can apply for funds to do: thinning/stand management, invasive species removal (plants) and control (bugs/insects), removal of dead and diseased trees, manage the sugar maples for syrup, manage oaks and mast bearing trees for regeneration and wildlife food, planting/cultivating non-wood forest products (ginseng goldenseal leeks mushrooms), etc.... The land will also then be taxed by the state as productive farmland saving thousand$.

I'm in the process of writing the management plan up, and this winter I'll be getting paid to work on my own woodlot by the USDA. 

That is going to generate a whole lot of cordwood and some sawlogs. I have about a dozen chainsaws, two farm tractors, and associated equipment. The cordwood will be split and cut in place then covered with free lumber covers (from local lumber yard) on top, then allowed to season. I should be able to get many years ahead on wood to heat the house. The sawlogs will get skidded to a landing and hopefully milled this spring; I have a small portable mill. That will provide lumber/timbers for two projects next year, a big ass woodshed near the house, and a timberframe barn for equipment storage and as a workshop. The mill will also generate more usable firewood from the outerslabs and edgings. Besides the building projects in the summer I'll also work on the invasive plants: bittersweet, barberry, multiflora rose, burning bush, and a few patches of poison ivy. I've established plantings of ginseng already and will plant more seed this fall.

The past few years I've just been able to keep up with the standing dead trees and blow downs for heating the buildings.

Eventually there will be sales of the cordwood, sawlogs/lumber, and possibly ginseng, in the long term. The maples should be able to generate significant volumes of sap. My cousin has a sugarshack/evaporator.

Anyway that is the plan. How much I get done will depend on when and how much snow falls this winter.


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## Stick (Sep 29, 2014)

Hey, MD...I used to be the guy you would contract to manage the woods. Tree stand improvement, thinning, planting...use to plant a million or two trees a year and thin several thousand acres a year, as well as plantation release, brushing, and fencing. Man, that was hard work. All up and down the Sierra. Los Padres NF to Siskiyou, Lassen, and Modoc, and every forest in between. A little in Oregon.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

Stick said:


> Hey, MD...I used to be the guy you would contract to manage the woods. Tree stand improvement, thinning, planting...use to plant a million or two trees a year and thin several thousand acres a year, as well as plantation release, brushing, and fencing. Man, that was hard work. All up and down the Sierra. Los Padres NF to Siskiyou, Lassen, and Modoc, and every forest in between. A little in Oregon.


That is great to know, I might have some questions for you as a write up my management plan.

I have been in touch with the state forester and USDA about forms and applications. I've started writing a management plan myself but may hire a state certified forester who's a friend , if I can get state funding. Parts I need to educate myself on are estimating stumpage and yields for stands.

Best,

MT


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## Chipper (Dec 22, 2012)

I'm good. Working on next years supply and have the logs stacked for 3-4 more years. ALWAYS like to be a year ahead so it dries out good. House has been heated with the same stainless barrel stove since the early 70's.


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## RedLion (Sep 23, 2015)

Chipper said:


> I'm good. Working on next years supply and have the logs stacked for 3-4 more years. ALWAYS like to be a year ahead so it dries out good. House has been heated with the same stainless barrel stove since the early 70's.


Nice. I am surprised that the barrel stove has lasted you that long without burning out the bottom.


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## Mad Trapper (Feb 12, 2014)

RedLion said:


> Nice. I am surprised that the barrel stove has lasted you that long without burning out the bottom.


Not sure on this specific stove but you can line the bottom with a layer of firebrick.

Another cheap fix is a layer of sand, but that is a PITA when it comes time to remove the ashes


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## Illini Warrior (Jan 24, 2015)

here's adventure in wood cutting for you .....

Wood Cutter : Video Clips From The Coolest One


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## Illini Warrior (Jan 24, 2015)

RedLion said:


> Nice. I am surprised that the barrel stove has lasted you that long without burning out the bottom.


if you build a barrel wood stove or putting away the component parts for future SHTF time builds - the cast iron grill plates out of the propane BBQ grills make excellent burning surfaces inside the stoves - ashes drop thru to the bottom and designing in a clean out port helps in the operation ....


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## RedLion (Sep 23, 2015)

Illini Warrior said:


> if you build a wood stove or putting away the component parts for future SHTF time builds - the cast iron grill plates out of the propane BBQ grills make excellent burning surfaces inside the stoves - ashes drop thru to the bottom and designing in a clean out port helps in the operation ....


Good advice.


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## Illini Warrior (Jan 24, 2015)

RedLion said:


> Good advice.


if the junked BBQ grill still has the propane tank fitting/regulator - that's a #1 re-use item to salvage .... the cast iron grills as mentioned .... if the grill has a side burner - the cast iron spider grate comes in handy for various projects ....


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## tc556guy (Sep 9, 2015)

The village I work in part time has been cutting trees down like mad for the past couple of years. Not sure why exactly; it's not the ash borer problem. When they seem to think about it the village workers pile up the cut wood at the DPW barns for the village residents to take. They've been cutting so much that the excess has been getting dumped at a stone quarry the village operates, something that most residents aren't aware of. So I spent a bit of time this summer at the quarry sawing and hauling wood that was left over from last summer. Next summer I'll do the same with wood from this summer. Some of the stuff they dump there is even chunked out to near-stove length. Not sure if that was the workers burning village gas to cut the wood to their own length needs for later retrieval....They had so much wood at the quarry they were bulldozing some of it under to make room for more. I also noticed that they were cutting trees with sections that could have been used for board lumber if harvested properly. In other words, had they planned ahead they could have had a logger pay to come in, harvest the trees that were useful for boards and saved the village workers time and made the village money to boot. Typical wastefulness on many levels.
The stuff I got was a mix; some maple, some oak. I even chopped up a section or two of pine to use as kindling.


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